Pwyll

And, whatever you do, don't ingest any. If you do, you'll soon realise how uncomfortable your toilet seat is.

Sorry if this sounds a little basic, but is it getting fuel? There is a schraeder valve on the feeder rail for the injectors, with the ignition on give the valve a press with a screwdriver. You should get a spectacular squirt of fuel. If you don't, then either your fuel pump is fubbared or the ECU isn't giving it any power. This was the case with mine, all we ended up doing was running a direct feed to it through a switch and fused relay. Works a treat and it's one more thing for the local pikeys to figure out before they can drive it off. Another thing to consider is the amp on the side of the distributor. They fail for no apparent reason. If yours is the problem, my advice is to go straight to your local LR dealer and get one from them. The price is a bit scary, but if it fails within a week (entirely possible) you can take it back and they will give you a new one. Try that with a factored part and they will point to the label in the bag/box that says "This item cannot be returned once this packaging has been opened". And then they'll ask you for another £35. HTH, just my experience. Regards, Paul

That was my first thought too. My assumption is that I am going to have to talk to the computer operator at the local(ish) dealer. Correct?

The fuel tank in my trialler has developed a leak from around the gauge sender unit. I am no longer in contact with the guy who built it, so I don't know what vehicle the tank came out of. This makes buying a new seal a little difficult. So, my question is twofold. Can someone tell me what tank it is or, failing that, what type of seal it should have(plastic, rubber, leather, cork, nonails, etc)? Thanks in advance, Paul

And when you take the carpet up, be prepared to find that your boot floor consists of rust held together with paint.

As above really, I have just taken them off my trialler as they are not really suited to the type of ground we use. They are 33 12.50 R15, they have never seen tarmac and there are no nicks or cuts in them that I am aware of. They cover a set of steel wheels that could do with a lick of paint as there is a little surface rust on one or two. If I do sell them they would be complete with a full set of nuts including an anti theft one for each corner. Pic below was taken on my phone, so is a bit grainy, but gives you an idea. Again, if sold, they would be nice and sparkly clean. I am posting this here as forum rules prevent me from selling them without a guide price. As I am not sure what they are worth, I am unable to do that. Which is fair enough. So, help me out here, give me a rough idea, please. Regards, Paul

Unfortunately, the quality of factored electronic parts is very patchy. The last amp I bought from a factors lasted ten minutes. As they come with that "open it and we won't take it back" disclaimer coupled with the fact that I was hacked off with the Disco riding around on recovery trucks, I decided to go straight to LR. At least if this one fails within a year I can take it back and they will replace it.

All this talk about spark intensifiers has got me thinking. My 3.9 has an amplifier module strapped to the side of the distributor. Have I just paid LR £116 for what is effectively fresh air in a little black case?

Never used either, and I'm not from Northern Europe. Just wanted to say that there is a more old fashioned solution. I picked one up at an autojumble last year not knowing what it was. Known as a Desmo Radilamp, turns out you hang this thing under the sump at night to keep the oil temp high enough to allow cranking in the morning. It is basically a parafin lamp with a fine steel gauze around it to radiate the heat. Now, I wonder what my insurance company would say about me hanging a parafin lamp under my Disco? But then this does originate from the fifties when H & S was non existant. Even as late as the early eighties, I can remember my Dad lighting an oily rag under the diesel tank of his truck to get the diesel to melt! Nostalgia trip over.

any chance?

Go and speak to your local equine supplies stockist. The latest thing SWMBO uses on all her horsey stuff is called Neatsfoot oil. Seems to do a pretty good job. Like I say, speak to them, tell them the problem. You will get a few sideways looks, but they will be able to sort you out.

Be careful with the amplifiers, it is perfectly possible for a brand new one to be faulty. Go on, ask me how I know! Apparently this is becoming more and more common with factored electrical/electronic parts. to make it worse, once you open that little bag that it comes in you can't take it back. Factors are fearful, rightly so, of pikey types putting their duff unit in the new bag and asking for their money back. My Dad works in the motor trade and his boss has told him to stop using factors for this type of thing and go stright to the main dealer. Just my £0.02, obviously.

This is going to sound a little odd, but here goes anyway. Get yourself a hessian sack full of rice from your local asian supermarket. The rice will absorb moisture from the air and ease the condensation problem. Probably wont cure the problem completely, but as Mr Tesco says, every little helps. Cheaper than a dehumidifier too. Oh, and probably best not to have the rice with your sweet and sour either.

Me again! We have had it running this afternoon, but particularly well. It will run and drive, but there is no power there. Try accelerating hard and she struggles. Timing is set at 6 deg BTC, which is where it was originally due to the LPG system. My assumption is that the ECU is getting the -ve pulse from the coil as the injectors are running. There is no power getting to the 3 pin multiplug that is fixed under the boot floor on the n/s corner. I am suspicious that this may mean that the ECU is getting the pulse from the coil, but not switching the fuel on. Which I assume means that ECU is fubarred. If this is the case, what kind of beer tokens should I expect to have to part with for an ECU? But I'm guessing that it wouldn't be as simple as just unplugging one and plugging the new one in. We have, for now, by-passed the ECU by running a switched and fused line from the fuel pump fuse in the engine bay fuse box. You say that the ECU primes the pump when the ignition is switched on if its a hotwire, which mine is. Does the ECU control the flow ofthe pump while the engine is running, or does it just turn it on and off again when the ignition is turned off? Any input gratefully received as the box of Swan Vesta is getting an ever likely prospect.

Problem solved. I hope. It would appear that I have been barking up the wrong tree on this one. When I tested that there was fuel present there must have been residual pressure in the line that caused fuel to squirt from the schraeder valve. So, up with the boot carpet that only got put back last week after having a new floor put in. (Yes, I suspect there is a connection between the two events too.) No power is getting to the fuel pump. There is power at the fuse box in the engine bay, but not at the connector at the top of the tank. So there is a break / dodgy connection somewhere that has been making and breaking depending on what direction the dog farts. Sods law dictates that we didn't ascertain this fact until half past five this evening. So rather than go to a trial tomorrow I am going to be finding the break or running a new cable from the fuse box to the top of the tank. But at least I don't have to cycle to work three o'clock Monday morning. Thanks Fridge and Bowie for your input. All information worth retaining.

Hmmm, food for thought. Assuming that the pulse is there at the coil, is there anyway I can check if it is making its way back to the ECU? Ta, Paul P.S. Plugs baking on gas mark 6 as we speak.

Mr. Fridge - not excessivly so, will have a good sniff next time I try to get it going. Mr. Bowie - going to take that route when I get in from work tomorrow. And as for looks from HID, its my bleedin' oven, in my bleedin' house that I do all the cooking in so she will just have to cope. ;-)

Right! 3.9 EFi serp V8, N reg, non spider Discovery Started to play up a week or so. Would start when it felt like it. As the symptoms were exactly the same last time the ignition amplifier went down a new one was purchased courtesy of DiscoAl's Aladins cave. Fitted new amplifier, jump started due to flat battery, fired but popped a bit when revved. Tweeked distributor to get timing right, ran fine. Turned ignition off, tighten clamp on distributor, bloody thing refuses to fire. Things that I do know - There is a spark (took plug lead off, inserted screwdriver, turned engine over with screwdriver held close to shock turret) There is fuel (checked at schraeder valve on injector rail) So, given that it has all that it needs to fire, and in the correct order too because it ran before, what could be the fault with it? I need this hoing by Monday, as I start a new job and need it to get there. Thanks in advance, Paul

Cat + pigeons - Adblue. Is it possible to retrofit? Has anyone ever asked a LR dealer to fit it to a new vehicle? On a completetly unrelated matter, how can the manufacturers of this stuff claim that it improves engine efficiency when its injected into the exhaust system? Answers on a postcard please, because I'm going into hiding now.

Let's face it, most of the Disco fixtures and fittings came from whatever parts bin was closest and fullest when they were "designing" it. Otherwise known as Midlands engineering.

I'm sure I've seen similar on a LR in the past, not sure which one though. I would be slighty concerned by the fact that you have to glue them together at the seam. If the joint is not 100% clean when you aply their "bonding agent" the joint is going to fail sooner or later. and, once it does fail, you then have a nice device for holding moisture / crud against the swivels. And, as we are all very much aware, keeping things clean while working under a LR is not the easiest of tasks. Unless, of course, you have access to a steam cleaner and a nice, warm, dry workshop. Just my two penneth worth.

Just be grateful you don't live on the Isle of Wight. There is only one place to get LPG on the island and that is a plumbing shop. They were charging 75p/litre last time I was over there, and that was two years ago. Dread to think what the price is now!

Just remember that the door, even without the spare wheel, is firkin heavy. It will take two of you to put the new one on, even if you can manage to take the old one off on your own.

Not all of them, mine has a doughnut. But then it was made for export to Oz, so that may make a difference.

Shame you link doesn't work.