Pwyll

The faster you go the more likely you are to attract the attention of the local constabulary / die a horrific gory death. And remind yourself of what they do to new drivers who get more than six points.

You could always put dogs or GF in the back and do away with the need for a hard top.

I always start mine with the control switch for the lpg switched to petrol. I then drive for about a mile or so in the summer and a bit longer in the winter. This allows the engine to get up to temp and the lpg will then vapourise much more efficiently. The amount of lpg flowing in is controlled by the black knob on the top of the unit. From memory you screw it in to decrease and out to increase the flow. To set it up properly you need the engine to be at operating temperature. Back the flow off slowly until the engine begins to hunt and feels like it's stalling, then screw back out again a quarter of a turn. Take it for a drive and see how it runs. If it feels rough open up the control another quarter turn until you get a smooth running engine. You shouldn't need to adjust it more than once or twice. As an aside, as mine is an auto I set it up with the box in D as that is where it spends most of its time. (And before the H&S police turn up, there was somebody sat with their foot oon the brake). If everything is set up correctly you should find it quite hard to start from cold on lpg, as soon as it's up to temperature flick the switch and blip the revs over 2000 and it should run sweet as a nut. I may be teaching my grandmother to suck eggs, but make sure that you have the correct plugs and leads. The Rover V8 is VERY particular about this, they don't like cheap ones, but they don't like fancy expensive ones either. Just stick to what's in the book and you'll not go far wrong. As for servicing, once a year sounds good. Try and get it done a week or so before your MOT is due. It is actually possible for it to fail emissions on lpg if there is a problem with the system. Ask me how I know..... I'm no expert, and there are far more experienced people on here than me. But the above has worked for me. HTH, Paul

I have the same system on my Disco. I was told when i bought it that you should start it on petrol as a matter of course. the system uses heat from the engine to assist in the vapourisation of the lpg. This is why the vapouriser is plumbed into the cooling system. It may be that you have been lucky and the ambient temperature has been high enough for the gas to vapourise on its own up until now. Alternatively it could be that the gas flow is set high enough to allow it to start. I know that I can turn mine up high enough to start after being stood outside overnight in minus fifteen centigrade, but by doing so it would be dumping a heck of a lot of lpg into the system for no reason. If this is the case you should back it off and start on petrol even in the summer. Its a small price to pay for the saving you will see in your lpg usage. HTH Paul

Another vote for the Scooby. Acres of space, comfortable to drive, simple to look after and good mpg. After my Disco "disagreed" with a stone wall last winter, it was the Forester that did all the fetching and carrying of bits. The trip to the local LR breakers is down a steep hill that was covered in snow at the time, just pulled the four wheel drive lever up and she trickled down on bog standard road tyres, and got out again to boot.

As the usual residence for the towing eye is in with the spare wheel, it would have been rather amusing watching them trying to get it out from under all their junk / important items for police use only.

They probably did have one, just didn't know where to look to find it. Either that or they haven't been "trained" in how to screw it in!

That's a novel way of going about it. Wonder how long the dark lords that run ebay will let it stay.

Consider it done Mr BM. I shall keep you all posted as to what, if any, reply comes back. Also, has anyone looked at his other items? He's got venturi generators and fuel magnets listed on there!!!

Inition amplifier module?

If you ever cross the border, there is an old sail makers in South Wales. She will make you one up to your spec. Tell her what you want and what you want it made from, let her measure up and a week later it should be ready. We had a cover made up for our IIA trialler, she does a top notch job. Let me know if that would be of use and I'll dig her number out.

Where are you in the UK boaterboy?

Where are you in the UK boaterboy?

Where are you in the UK boaterboy?

Actually, there is one other thing. When you have it all plumbed in and start to bleed the air out, DO NOT stop the engine until all the air is out. If you do, you will have an ATF fountain from the resrvoir. Go on, ask me how I know!

We have just finished doing this very job on our RR based trialler. Used a Disco box and pump. If you have a V belt engine which I assume you have, you will need a 200 series pump as it has the correct pulley. You will proably need a Disco steering arm as the ends are a different configuration on the Disco. All in all it took me and my Dad two and a half days to put everything together. All I can add is that was well worth it! Regards, Paul

If my ailing memory serves me right, there is a number you can call for non emergency stuff. Not sure what it is or about its efficacy, but that would be the one to use.

I was always taught that if you had any doubts you should ask for their number and ask them to wait while you call the local police station to verify their credentials. If they are genuine they should have no issue with that. If not, they normally scarper. But I guess the above only works if you are confident that you are on the correct side of the law to begin with. If you have just robbed a bank, this approach probably isn't going to help. ;-)

I may have a spare flasher unit in the inventing shed. I'll have a look in the morning. PM me if that would be of interest.

I may have a spare flasher unit in the inventing shed. I'll have a look in the morning. PM me if that would be of interest.

You can put all the chains on it that you want. If the thieving scumbags want it, they'll have it. Your safest option is never to leave the vehicle unattended in motorway services. I am, perhaps overly so, paranoid about this when we go on holiday with our little camping trailer. It's so small and light it takes two seconds to unhitch it and it's away. We take it in turns to powder ours noses and stay with the vehicle. Bitter and twisted, moi? Never.

Finally got a start on putting power steering onto my trialer last weekend. Numerous issues have thrown their heads up, most of which are being sorted. The one I need help with is the intermediate shaft that links the bottom of the steering column to the steering box. I should say at this point that the chassis and running gear are all RR and that the new steering box came off a 300 Disco. Comparing the two steering boxes, the nose on the new power steering box is about an inch and a half shorter than the manual box that is coming off. I am assuming that, as power steering was fitted to RR's at some point and that the box is the same as the Disco one that I am using, there must be a longer shaft available to join the column to the box. Am I correct? If not, suggestions please. The shaft that is on there now measures ten and a half inches between the two UJ's. Thanks in advance, Paul

From memory, the two headlights have different mountings to the front bulkhead. The 200 has two lugs while the 300 has three. I think. Does the 200 not have tohose wrap around thingies around the headlights and indicators? If so, does this mean that the wings are a different shape?

If your still stuck, call round after work. You can have a look at mine. Ooh, er, missus!

Silly question, but have you tried Maplin? They carry all sorts of generic stuff for not much money. And if they can't help, their geeks should know somewhere that can. Regards, Paul