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Posts posted by stuck
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Hi all,
My pick up is almost complete now, intending on painting it matt black with a roller.
Any guesstimates on how much paint I will need?
I'm thinking 5 litres...
Cheers,
Mick.
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Bish runs away in horror at mick's machining offer
What I should have said is I can get you one made at work if you still have a need
If I made it it MAY serve as a wheel nut.
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Following on from my VDO pressure sender thread, I need to acquire a custom adaptor to connect the sender to the engine.
What I need is an adaptor with a 1/4" NPTF thread in one end and an M10 x 1 male thread on the other. Probably turned from hex bar stock? Obviously this needs to be hollow or line bored to allow the oil (and pressure) to reach the sender!!
So, does anyone fancy turning one up for me... pretty please...?
Beer tokens available..... B)
How quickly do you need it Bish?
I could do you one but I don't think it would be before next weekend now.
Mick.
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Firstly, 10mm plate is way overboard. 5mm will be fine.
The standard bumper mounts are of no value at all for a recovery point. You really need to fabricate something more substantial.
I would concentrate on the two holes in the cross member and fabricate brackets from the new bumper that "sandwich" the cross member so the two bolts are in double shear. IIRC the bolts are M16? or was I imagining that?
If they are only M12 / M10 then you really should be looking to use the holes on the chassis rails where the tow bar stays would attach too.
The above is of course only if you have a centrally mounted recovery point.
You don't need a swivel recovery point. Two bits of 10mm plate with a bit hole in them welded together to form a triangle ( the bumper is the third bit of the triangle) will be fine as long as your welding is up to scratch. I would look for a bigger hole than 20mm though so a good sized winch hook can go through it. Unnecessary shackles are just something else to get in the way / go wrong.
Alternatively, bend up some 20mm round bar instead of the 10mm plates.
Thanks Bish,
Hadn't thought of fabricating triangular recovery points, bloody good idea.
The holes in the cross member are indeed +16mm so I'll use those.
Mick.
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Hi all,
I want to make a tubular rear bumper with recovery points for my classic pickup, I intend on using either 3" or 4" OD thick wall tube with all mounting brackets made fom 10mm plate.
Question is will the two bumper mounting holes and the two holes in the rear cross member that used to hold the tow bar flat plate be strong enough?
I don't realy want to run bracing brackets down to the chassis rails.
Second question is do the recovery points realy have to swivel or can I just use 50 x 50 sections of 10mm plate with a 20mm hole in them welded to the main rail?
Edit: Chassis is in A1 condition.
Cheers,
Mick.
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Cheers Gents!
I knew somebody on here would help, great forum
Mick.
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Ehm Lots!
If I get hold of the cross slide I can move it in and out by approx 3mm!
Is it dead?
Cheers for the reply Carl,
Mick.
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Sorry this is so off topic but do any of you chaps know how to take out the backlash from the cross slide on a Mk 1 Colchester Student?
Bit of a longshot but I'm sure somebody will know!
Cheers,
Mick.
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IMHO it's best to buy decent ones.
I have 4 Makita grinders and recommend them, best I've used.
HTH's
Mick.
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I have a D.C. clip on ammeter you could borrow, guess you could leave it under the bonnet on "peak hold" for a quick check (as long as you don't burn or drown it!)
You say you already have one but are you sure it will do DC as most wont.
Other than that I could design you a permanent install if you like...
HTH's
Mick.
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FFS Don't know what happened there but I've just been back out and it started first time
Ripped the Lucarse stuff out for this very reason!
Cheers for the help though gents.
Mick.
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Thanks Jeff,
If I earth the fuel pump relay the pump does run but still won't start so I'm guessing the ECU isn't happy about something.
Wouldn't mind but I haven't touched anything since it last ran.
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is the fuel pump relay working ?
No thats the problem, MS is not dropping pin 37 to 0v to enable the relay.
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Need some help gents,
Although it's not finished I have had my truck running, been out to it today to do some more work and it wont start.
Checked all voltages and have found that the ECU is not enabling the fuel pump (I have +12v on pin 37 not 0v) all other inputs / outputs appear to be correct, only other thing I can find is that battery voltage is down to 11.5v (plenty of juice to crank the engine though)
Why is my fuel pump not being enabled?
Cheers,
Mick.
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If you have a scrap piece of rubber try Nitromors paint stripper.
WHAT EVER YOU DO DON'T GET IT ON THE TRUCK! As it does exactly what it sats on the tin.
HTH's
Mick.
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Cheers Steve.
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Hi all,
Does anybody know of anywhere online where I can buy the metal brake disk crud shields from along with pad retaining pins and springy clippy things?
Vehicle is an '88 EFI.
Cheers,
Mick.
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Anderzander,
Any chance you could let me know where that lane is please mate?
Buggered if I know of any in Lancashire.
PM me if you'd prefer.
Many thanks,
Mick.
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^
As Luke has said, buy from Steve, I bought a 215 from him last year, he knows his stuff and the welder is an excellent piece of kit.
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I know this is an old thread but I'd like to add the following:
I think Magnecor (UK) must have learned something recently,
Called them yesterday for a quote for a set of custom leads for my squirted V8, spoke to a very knowledgeable chap called Phil (think he's the MD)
Was quoted quite a spendy price but when I asked when I could have them he said "Ehm... tomorrow?"
Order placed!
I have no connection with said company in any way, just thought I'd share my experience of good service.
Mick.
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Nige posted a scanned Magnecor order forum in this thread, if you email that to Fastlane and let them know the measurement was done from the top of the spark plug to the top of the coil tower, they should be able to make a set up, that's what I did.
Can anybody point me in the right direction for this order form please?
I've re-read all 28 pages of this thread and can't find it!
Pretty desperate as I'm currently running a bodge up utilising RR leads, EDIS coil packs and the technical fix also known as tin foil
Cheers,
Mick.
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FF or HFH will point you at a lead source.
LEDs reading from DB9
Injection.....flashes each time injectors fire
WUE...shows when Warm Up Enrichment is on
AE...Acceleration Enrichment. Comes on when you mash the go pedal.
Steve
Cheers Steve.
freelander s reg brakes
in Freelander Forum
Posted
Get yourself a Gunson Easibleed, most bleed problems solved.