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stuck

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Posts posted by stuck

  1. hi i got the 1.8 petrol 3 door replaced rear shoes fron discs and pads and handbrake cable...went to bleed the system filled the chamber up with fresh fluid ..pump n pump but nothing comes out of the nipple? blew out the pipe with compressed air and it shot out ...but when i re attached the line still it wont run out..any ideas? is there a system to bleeding the freelander? any views appreciated in advance alex

    Get yourself a Gunson Easibleed, most bleed problems solved.

  2. Hi all,

    My pick up is almost complete now, intending on painting it matt black with a roller.

    Any guesstimates on how much paint I will need?

    I'm thinking 5 litres...

    Cheers,

    Mick.

  3. Easy fix

    Your Lucas "Internal Smoke" has escaped from your wiring, prob a poor joint

    at a terminal end, or maybe a crack in the plastic outer covering of your wiring.

    You just need to get one of these to Fix :

    post-22-1245924334_thumb.jpg

    Hope this helps ;)

    Nige

    :hysterical::hysterical::hysterical:

  4. Following on from my VDO pressure sender thread, I need to acquire a custom adaptor to connect the sender to the engine.

    What I need is an adaptor with a 1/4" NPTF thread in one end and an M10 x 1 male thread on the other. Probably turned from hex bar stock? Obviously this needs to be hollow or line bored to allow the oil (and pressure) to reach the sender!! :lol:

    So, does anyone fancy turning one up for me... pretty please...?

    Beer tokens available..... B)

    How quickly do you need it Bish?

    I could do you one but I don't think it would be before next weekend now.

    Mick.

  5. Firstly, 10mm plate is way overboard. 5mm will be fine.

    The standard bumper mounts are of no value at all for a recovery point. You really need to fabricate something more substantial.

    I would concentrate on the two holes in the cross member and fabricate brackets from the new bumper that "sandwich" the cross member so the two bolts are in double shear. IIRC the bolts are M16? or was I imagining that? :huh:

    If they are only M12 / M10 then you really should be looking to use the holes on the chassis rails where the tow bar stays would attach too.

    The above is of course only if you have a centrally mounted recovery point.

    You don't need a swivel recovery point. Two bits of 10mm plate with a bit hole in them welded together to form a triangle ( the bumper is the third bit of the triangle) will be fine as long as your welding is up to scratch. I would look for a bigger hole than 20mm though so a good sized winch hook can go through it. Unnecessary shackles are just something else to get in the way / go wrong.

    Alternatively, bend up some 20mm round bar instead of the 10mm plates.

    Thanks Bish,

    Hadn't thought of fabricating triangular recovery points, bloody good idea.

    The holes in the cross member are indeed +16mm so I'll use those.

    Mick.

  6. Hi all,

    I want to make a tubular rear bumper with recovery points for my classic pickup, I intend on using either 3" or 4" OD thick wall tube with all mounting brackets made fom 10mm plate.

    Question is will the two bumper mounting holes and the two holes in the rear cross member that used to hold the tow bar flat plate be strong enough?

    I don't realy want to run bracing brackets down to the chassis rails.

    Second question is do the recovery points realy have to swivel or can I just use 50 x 50 sections of 10mm plate with a 20mm hole in them welded to the main rail?

    Edit: Chassis is in A1 condition.

    Cheers,

    Mick.

  7. I have a D.C. clip on ammeter you could borrow, guess you could leave it under the bonnet on "peak hold" for a quick check (as long as you don't burn or drown it!)

    You say you already have one but are you sure it will do DC as most wont.

    Other than that I could design you a permanent install if you like...

    HTH's

    Mick.

  8. Need some help gents,

    Although it's not finished I have had my truck running, been out to it today to do some more work and it wont start.

    Checked all voltages and have found that the ECU is not enabling the fuel pump (I have +12v on pin 37 not 0v) all other inputs / outputs appear to be correct, only other thing I can find is that battery voltage is down to 11.5v (plenty of juice to crank the engine though)

    Why is my fuel pump not being enabled? :angry:

    Cheers,

    Mick.

  9. I know this is an old thread but I'd like to add the following:

    I think Magnecor (UK) must have learned something recently,

    Called them yesterday for a quote for a set of custom leads for my squirted V8, spoke to a very knowledgeable chap called Phil (think he's the MD)

    Was quoted quite a spendy price but when I asked when I could have them he said "Ehm... tomorrow?"

    Order placed! :i-m_so_happy:

    I have no connection with said company in any way, just thought I'd share my experience of good service.

    Mick.

  10. Nige posted a scanned Magnecor order forum in this thread, if you email that to Fastlane and let them know the measurement was done from the top of the spark plug to the top of the coil tower, they should be able to make a set up, that's what I did.

    Can anybody point me in the right direction for this order form please?

    I've re-read all 28 pages of this thread and can't find it!

    Pretty desperate as I'm currently running a bodge up utilising RR leads, EDIS coil packs and the technical fix also known as tin foil :o

    Cheers,

    Mick.

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