FKD

Please don't put the welder near the V blocks. Its looks like they are a matched pair and would of cost £100+ when new and are worth about half if in good nick, someone in the know will give you you good money for them and buy yourself some G clamps

Just for the record you don't need to take the head off to heli-coil. The taps I use don't require you to dill the old thread out and are spriral fluted so they force the swarf up out of the hole in ally anyway, cast just use a hoover. IMHO I woundnt take it to a garage, find yourself an engine shop/engineerig shop, it's real easy to botch a thread with a heli-coil, so leave it to the pro's, as for cost top's £20 anymore and they are lifting your leg... Cheers FKD

These boys should be able to help clicky will send next day if you ask nice!

Don't worry about it, that's not bad for an old machine! Remember backlash is taken up when applying the cut,(the most important thing is to make sure all your ways and headstock bearings are adjusted correctly) when on a cut: 1. touch the work with the tool and zero dial or make a note of the reading... 2. apply the cut eg .020 3. when cut is finished back of tool and return to start... 4. return dial to zero+.020 and add next cut eg.010 5. then either apply cut or zero dial if its adjustable and make a note of the cuts you have taken(you should do this anyway!) and then make your cut and so on... Cheers FKD

I use these guys for our kingsland, they will do you stuff next day and at the right money... Clicky

Couldn't agree more as long as they are from a known source and are HSS you will be fine... Same with bench grinder, please don't waste your money on a drill sharpener, unless your are willing to spend about 3 grand on a S/H one they are a waste of time, once you get the knack a quick twist of the wrist and your done! If you don't have a drill gauge,just put two plain nuts together and you got one, ok its 120deg but close enough and will show you if your angles and lands are even...

Even if they didn't see it, as soon as it was put in acid they sure would then! and you would have some explaining to do! To be honest if you do your home work, you find that cold galving is sometimes the first choice eg. oil rigs,pipe lines and maritime vessels etc

Not sure what you are getting at? All I know is from jobs Ive done in the past if you weld on/near/too etc to galv, the place where you have welded rusts at an alarming rate even if you treat said area...

If only it was that easy! I'm afraid it still classed as "double dipping" the chassis would still need to be stripped of the old galv then shot blasted and acid dipped for the new galv to bond because the galv firm would not want to risk any violent reaction or contamination in the dip tank... The trouble is hot dip galv works at about 460 deg C and starts degrading or peeling in service at about 200 deg C so the only way to "double dip" is to dip one end straight after the other...eg if the part was to long to fit in the dip tank. Don't get me wrong I'm sure there will be a firm out there that will do it but be warned expect two things (1) it will look and be a right sh&ty mess and secondly don't expect it to last too long...

Yeah been there, done that and had more than a few pints!

Hi the fumes wont kill you but will give you zinc fever (really BAD flu type symptoms)and as far as I know zinc behaves the same as lead or any heavy metal ie. it stays in your body for ever! as for re-galvanizing, check with the firm who you plan to use as they might not want to do it or will charge you a small fortune, for some reason they just don't like doing it, we had to send some structural steel back in after modifying and it cost us triple!...

You've spoilt all the fun

5 Amps should be fine, I wonder how many times you'll forget about that fuse...

If you just need it as an anti-theft device, then use a standard isolator and bridge the terminals with a low amp fuse, then when turned off anything that needs to stay live to work/not need resetting ie radio, alarm,ecu etc will still work and if the ignition is operated while isolated the fuse will blow and vehicle cant be started...

Hydraulic? or is that still a dirty word Yeah halving the electrical load but surely doubling the torque on the first motor? or am I missing the point?