Outrage

Right, just a progress report.... Rings swapped, head serviced, all back together....... turns over!!!!..... ......Only smokes half as bad now, still too much to pass an MOT. Never mind, had to try and it didn't set me back 2 much. I have now won a 2.5 na diesel (12J) from ebay for a transplant. I'm aware of the RHS engine mount, throttle cable, thermostat and using the existing 2.25 exhaust manifold. Do I need clutch components from a 90 or series III? and is there anything else i need to know? Also how much does a 2.5 diesel weigh? would a hired citroen berlingo or similar be man enough to carry it or do i need something larger? Thanks all, Lee

Right, pistons are back in and the head's back on. Do i (read: should i have...) need to do anything specific with the oil? I lubed up the new big end shells before putting them in the cylinders but other than than that is there anything else i need to consider or do i just fill up the engine as normal through the sump filler tube? Sorry if this sounds a bit daft but i'm a complete novice with engine internals and don't want to bust it when i turn it back on due to improper oil. Cheers, Lee.

Sorry, of hear of your woes Geoff I assumed it would just be a normal 3 pole POT which i've seen on other timed delay circuits, 12 pole rotary switch would seem a bit excessive for a small project. Cheers, Lee

Hi Western, Thanx for that! Will be doing the job 2morrow at work with the aid of the workshop manual, but wanted to check in case it wasn't mentioned in there! Cheers, Lee

Right, new rings purchassed and installed But being a numpty, i can't remember which way round the pistons go in the block!! They've got a V shaped groove on the tops, does the bottom of the V need to point towards the manifold or injector side of the engine?? Thanks, chaps! Lee

Hi Geoff, I haven't seen the unit but presume its all mounted on a PCB. Why not unsolder the Potentiometer from the board, mount it appropriately on the inside of the box with araldite or somesuch with the handle protruding thru a hole. Solder wire between it and the original PCB holes to make the connections. I guess ther'd only be 3 wires max if it was a normal POT? Cheers, Lee

Don't give up! 3 months is nothing my rebuild of my lightweight has been 3 years! plus ive been given another landrover which i'm messing about at at the moment. Cheers, Lee

Hi All, thanks for your useful information and suggestions. Bowie, there is a lip at the top of the bore but it doesn't seem too bad although i must confess, i have nothing to compare it to. I'm thinking of getting new rings, see if the rings plus the revamp of the head clears up the smoke and then call it a day on this engine if not. As has been mentioned prior it's not the best engine in the word and it may be worth seeking out a bigger engine. Price of Pistons plus a rebore plus the time removing the other engine internals, moving the block to the re-borers and then putting the whole lot back together to find i've then got other problems would drive me off my nut! Iv'e had a great quick reply from turners: "Dear Lee, Thank you for your e mail enquiry. From the information supplied it appears your pistons are 020 oversize." they've also quoted me for replacement rings and pistons. Cheers, Lee

This is why i said i'd never mess around with engine internals! I've Emailed Turner Engineering for info and a quote. Cheers, Lee

Hi Mark, Les's info was based on the sizes taken off my existing pistons, so I think the pistons are correct for the existing 0.40 rebore. i just want to change the rings........ .....unless i've misinterpreted something (which isn't hard 4 me!) Lee

That seems a bit worrying 2 me, started thinking I may be chucking away good money if its been rebored several times. Just so i'm sure I need to go for "RTC419340 PISTON RING SET 2.25 & 2.5 DIESEL NA 040"? Cheers, Lee

Ok chaps, i've now cleaned up the pistons and the markings on the faces are: "90.875" and "Sp 0.12mm" and i'm still non the wiser!? Any ideas if these are oversize pistons? Cheers, Lee

Cheers Les/Bowie!

Hi, thanks for the earlier input. Ive had a better look at the bearing shells they've got "Rover 527172" and "NB 306 DC" stamped on them. Are these standard shells? Cheers, Lee.

Great, thanks for the replies i'll have a better look later, was hoping it was that easy! Cheers, Lee

Hey all, I've bitten the bullet and taken off the head of my 2.25 NAD in an effort to cure the plumes of smoke eminating from the exhaust. Heads going to a reconditioner for a looksee/cleanup, injectors are going for a test/cleanup and i'm going to replace the piston rings and the bearing shells on the connecting rods. Question is........ Is there an easy way that i can determine what size bearing shells and piston rings I need from looking at the old ones? Cheers, Lee

A thumbs up to both the Halfords item which i use at home which has worked really well for my Landrover batteries and also for the optimate/accumate chargers which I use at work to maintain the batteries on our emergency medical trailers - these are left on maintaining the batteries 24/7 and the batteries are in good working order for well over 2 years. Cheers, Lee

SNAP! - But with a Lightweight. 4 years and counting - still theres some paint on it now so it looks like I'm on the final straight (just one more year then....) I've also got another SIII 88" with a knackered engine sat at work that I haven't decided what to do with as well. Cheers, Lee

I'm an Airport Engineer. I look after the infrastructure at Robin Hood Airport in Doncaster and also Sheffield City Airport. Primarily Electrical but we are supposed to be 'Multi skilled' Prior to that I was a Control Systems engineer, designing and commissioning control systems for all sorts of automated plant across the UK. Cheers, Lee

Thanks for those, emails sent off but keep em coming! Cheers, Lee

Hi All, I'm looking to purchase a roll hoop to fit in the lightweight, what's everyones opinions on the best place to purchase one. Can you buy a roll hoop "off the shelf" or would I have to surrender the vehicle to have one made. Safety devices used to have a catalogue and you could order an item to fit yourself but i can't find such a thing on their website anymore. I'm just looking for a simple hoop with 1x cross brace and back stays for RTV trials since I have a hood and sticks that offer no protection. Alternatively, is there anyone on here that would be interested in making me one up? I know there are quite a few with the tools and talent for such a task. Cheers, Lee.

Sounds like a basic latching circuit, this general arrangement is used on basic motor starters to start and stop motors (and other loads using 2 spring return pushbuttons (Push to Latch = NO, Push to break = NC). As long as the latch part of the circuit is correctly wired before the push to break switch and not after it it is a sound system to use. As fridge has stated, if the control loop is broken or power is removed then the latch is removed. Simon R is also correct that contacts on relays can - and do weld in. This can be overcome by operating 2 relays in parallel but wiring the contacts in series. If one Relays contacts welds in the circuit will still be broken by the second relays contacts as it is unlikely both relays will weld at the same time. you can also purchase positively guided relays and the like to further reduce the likely hood of this. I would also advise the use of contactors as opposed to relays as these are generally used for higher current operations and are more reliable. I can post a wiring diagram if anyone needs one. Cheers, Lee O **EDITED TO ADD:** Since the load making and breaking is being done by the winch solenoids, the relays shouldn't (unless button pressed in emergency) actually be switching a load. This means that the chances of relay welding is dramatically reduced since this occurs when the contacts meet/release causing an arc, with no current flow there will be no arc which means no degradation of the contacts.

Yeh, could have done with a few more graffiti types on the project - the paintwork would av bin more wikkid - init! kikkin it 2 ya! Lee

Hi Paul/Les, thanks for the kind words. There are one or two deformations on the bulkhead where the steel's been warped by the heat, caused by my inexperience in welding which I wasn't too happy with and more than a few holes drilled in it where they shouldn't have been. No matter how hard I try being precise with my measurements is something I just can't seem to get right and I've dropped a few monumental cock ups along the way with the tub through measuring. My tips are if you are going to do major work on your Landie: Have a water tight garage, thats got a level floor and electricity (and closer than 10 miles to your home) Spend more than you can afford on a decent mig-welder rather than swearing and shouting at the hobby one you bought from B&Q when it constantly fails to feed the wire! (done more repairs on it than to the Landie!) Measure twice, cut (or drill) once! Tell your girlfriend / wife that it will take 4 years + when you start (not a year to change the chassis!) Don't get despondent with the project - take a few weeks off from time to time and come back afresh. Ta, Lee

Hi all, just adding a few, not in the same league of some on ere, but i was happy with it... Rebuild lightweight lower bulkhead: Test fitted: And again (with re fabricated radiator support): In Paint with new dash console: New LTWT rear tub (can't claim credit for the long bends but the smaller panels were done by myself): Girlfriend (Ex.) having a quick spin: Cheers, Lee