Outrage

If the holes not due to rust why don't you weld it up or get someone to do it? depending on the size of the hole it shouldn't be that expensive to fix and would certainly save you a lot of money. Ive done this to mine as the previous numpty that owned my vehicle had drilled through the seatbox (lightweight) and through the tank, meaning on steep climbs the fuel drained out through the hole. If you are going to weld it up make sure you remove all the fuel and then fill it with water to flush out all the fumes.

A few more... Plenty of Military Defenders in "28 days later" Think Sigourney Weever drove a IIA(maybe III) in "Gorillas in the mist" In the opening prison sequence of "Romeo Must Die" were there 109's in the background?

Series 3 (or 2A) in Sum of all fears. Lightweight with hard top in Black Hawk down. Range Rover in Clear and Present Danger. Defender Crewcab in Layer Cake N.A.S. Defender in the village (yes - i really am that sad!)

Heres mine: and just to prove it does work- sorry about the size!!

Sad thing is - i know someone who's got one! Not motorised, but a full scale mockup out of timber and Ply that you can sit inside! Mind u he is a bit of a strange excentric type!

If you fancy a CB in there as well i used to have one that had a PA output, just wire up to speakers, but i don't know if they are still made with this feature. have a look at Maplins.

They are bloody expensive - i know first hand! sorry for the huge pic!

nah, the bodywork on mine was such a sloppy fit the seals barely touch the dooors!

Hi O2, O2 on mine all the door bottom seals are attached to the door whilst the door top seals are a mixture of door and bodywork mounted

JW, cheers for that mate, its made life a lot simpler! You wouldn't happen to know the part number for the charging resistor would you, seems a bit daft to rely one one small lamp to charge the battery so worthwhile fitting one. Yes the supply to the charge light is through an ignition fed supply.

Hi all, A few alternator related questions im struggling with, when i originally baught the car the electrickery was a complete hodge bodge so ive rewired the whole thing to my liking and everything appears to work ok but due to the mixture of series/110 components ive a few queries: Ive got a 2.5nad 12J engine in the lightweight and after installing a new alternator after my old one failed (bearings went). The new alternator is different from the old one in the fact that as well as the three spade type terminals it also has two stud type marked up as B+ and W what are these used for? Since ive rewired the car i'm a little confused as to the correct method of wiring the alternator up. At the moment ive got both connections from the two large spade terminals connected to the battery positive via the starter motor positive stud and the small spade terminal is connected to my charging light with the other side of the charging light connected to a positive feed. Is this correct?? Are the two large spade connections linked internally within the the alternator? If so is there any reason why i can't just run one wire to the battery instead of two? Ive got a 110 schematic which appears to show an ignition light resistor in parallel to the ignition light whats this for and do i need to incorporate it as there wasn't one on the vehicle when i first baught it? theres a pdf of how its wired (give or take!) here: lees electrickery diagram if that helps. Thanks for your help,

Cheers Lads, Glad i asked, got some funny ideas in my head! Still, after having it in bits for 2 years you do tend to forget the simplest details! (you aught to see the box of nuts and bolts i'm left with! )

Ive rebuilt both the rear tub, seatbox and door cills on my lightweigtht from scratch and ive been daft enough to scrap the originals. Can anyone tell me how the seatbox is secured to the door cills and vertically up the rear (below the door lock thingies) of the door? I was thinking pop rivets, but did the originals use those retaining clips and screws? Thanks all,

Cheers All, That'll put me on the right track!

Hi All, I'm thinking about installing an electric fan and doing away with the one off the engine. I don't want to pay rediculous amounts for a ken lowe or similar effort. Has anyone done this with a Lightweight and can reccomend a fan off another vehicle (preferably common in scrappies!) that i could install with the minimum of fuss. I also want to run it off a temperature sender so can anyone give me an appropriate sender and method of installation? Thanx in advance,

Ive got some details of someones double pump setup, if i can find the writeup and pictures i'l email the author and see if he would mind me posting it for all to see.

Finishing some plastering and tiling in the kitchen, then hopefully finishing off my new seat box for the lightweight.

Hi Les, i dont know if a 2.5 diesel runs hotter than a petrol but ive got a standard 2.25 rad serving my 12J engine which works just fine. probably not much help, but worth a reply

freeagent, ive got white powder growing round my battery terminals and ive been having problems with the alternator. is this a symptom of failure?

Mines a work nickname derived of my surname (Outram) and my tendancy to go off the deep end! Ive also been known as Snake hips! (but thats a different story!) B) B)

BBC, thanks for the reply. can you think of any that will definately fit so i can just ask at the scrappy? p.s. whats with all the garbage text? NAS90, good idea although over the noise of my engine u cant hear much! Cheers, Lee

Cheers for the replies lads, i'll whip it off and change it, whats the going rate for a new alternator?

Hi all, Ive been trying to trace a wirring noise down on the front of my truck and have narrowed it down to either the water pump or alternator on my 2.5 NAD. Ive run the engine briefly with no fan belt on and the noise has gone away. Looking at the alternator, if i push and pull on the pully left and right should there be any movement of the alternator shaft? mine looks to have about 1-2mm play. Its charging ok but does this mean the bearings on its way out?

From your description, i think i've wired mine up in reverse it works fine though. My input terminals are the female connections that accept the male (flat) spade crimps. The outputs use the others. No particular reason for wiring it up this way other, although using the normal plug and socket phylosophy probably would make sense.

I feel banged to rights....it's a fair cop, governor I have removed details from my observation. cheers!