crispyme

PS nige, Wouldn't worry about your wheel nuts so much, Your car is so often having its wheels off repairing axles and such so... your wheel nuts will always be tight... Eeyore

As much as I like Nige making a fool of him self, and putting his silly smug smile back from where it came. I can see his point. I'm sure there is a very good point in ensuring that HGV's wheel nuts are definitely tight, and a simple visual check is a very good way of doing it. I think, as Si I'm sure will agree, that you should probably check your vehicle all over anyway. "They would not work that well on a landy for two reasons nuts a lot further apart and there are only 5 so the working in pairs bit is out" - They don't have to be pointing to one another, they merely need to be in a set direction so that it is obvious when they come undone... so they can all point out in the same direction, or towards each other, pointy end to pointy end. So they can work on any stud pattern. If you want to save yourself £40, all you need is a 27mm Socket (or a socket that fits your wheel nuts - smart a*se's), a medium length breaker bar, or preferably a torque wrench (set to 80lb/ft or 96lb/ft depending on alloy or steel), 5 minutes and some kind of muscle. If you can't tighten up all the nuts on your wheels, your pretty good to go. Bit cheaper, easy peasy, so even Nige can handle that Eeyore

I run 255/85/R16 Cooper discoverer STT (old style I think) Did a camel cut and trimmed the front bumper (which I then removed and replaced with a winch bumper). not had a problem other than gearing, which I altered to 4.1:1 Spare wheel fits on back door, nothing catches. Can't complain other than they're a bit skinny

I agree with pwam2006, I put HD springs (+2") and toughback shocks, which stiffened up the whole truck. After doing a few off road excursions, I the rear anti roll bar chassis mounts (the u shaped bits that are part of the chassis) fell off, allowing my ARB to be dragged around. Whipped that off and didn't notice a difference, so didn't put it back on. This weekend, just installed my front LSD to accompany the rear, and removed the ARB while I was there. Havn't noticed any difference yet, except for the LSD, but handling wise, it's same as before. This is with new shocks and springs, Tired shocks/springs may well have a noticeable difference with/without the ARB. But then again, I know that I'm driving a tall truck which weighs 2 tonne, and drive it accordingly. be warey of that and you should be fine. I must say though, the ARB's didn't hinder my progress off road too much to be honest. They will and do, don't get me wrong, but for light green laning / pay and play days, I didn't have a problem. My 2 pence

Gearing may need to be altered to suit the car. my Disco 300 Tdi manual / 1.22 transfer box needed 4.1 final drive ratio to help with the 33" tyres I put on. As for putting 35" on. You'll probably need to alter the gearing in some way, either by changing the transfer box or by final drive gears, then it should be OK on the road. 10 spline shafts aren't the best of all shafts and do have a tendancy to 'ping' when put under stress, shafts would be my next point of call. You'll probably want either 24 spline OE shafts, or better yet some after market ones (KAM, Ashcroft, Terrafirma?? etc) will last a lot longer. however, along with the 24 spline shafts, you'll need some 24 spline diffs, and obviously something to replace the 10 splines ARB (may be able to get upgrade kit) Once that's done. C.V joints will be the next on the list. You probably have the 32 spline CV's which are about as much use as the 10 splines. (23 spline CV's are more durable). CV upgrade's aren't cheap though. You can probably get away with the current CV's for a while, but I don't think they will last super long, so expect either a lot of second hand replacement CV's or some after market ones. All in its not a cheap mod to run 35" tyres... but you can get by just by popping them on and driving around (slowly unless you sort gearing out) on the road, nothing should break straight away but be gentle. Go off road and it's anyone's guess as to weather things will last or not. hope this helps Chris

I had a problem with my 300 Tdi where the engine would cut out at random times. Sometimes when I stopped, sometimes when I put my size 11 down hard, sometimes when cruising. Thought it may have been the pump power wire, but that didn't resolve anything. at some point of poking around the engine bay for what ever reason I was there, I unscrewed the bottom of the fuel filter to drain out any carp that may have been in there (assumed water) and, touch wood, I haven't had the problem again. Give that a try. Can't hurt Chris

Cheers Mr Farmer, big helps, I have tried to make a template from the snorkel, and placed it up, but wasn't happy with where it sat with regards to the (soon to be) hole for the air box (Mines a 300 Tdi, soon to have a 200 Tdi air box) The reason I havn't already gone for cutting a nice big hole in the side is I would like it to look like a half decent job. Last thing I really want is a hole that doesn't represent what the hole should look like and also be obvious even with the snorkel. Thought if I wait for a template, it may have a half a good shot at it being right. I contact the local 4x4 factors, see what they can do. I'm in no desperate hurry to get it on in anycase and would rather it be right. Cheers guys Eeyore

I bought a second hand Safari snorkel recently for a 200 Tdi Discovery, but it being second hand it didn't come with fitting instructions or a template. The instructions aren't a problem as they are on the Safari web site, however, there doesn't seem to be anywhere you can get a template from. Does anyone have a scanned copy or a template they could lend / give me. Alternativly has any one got the dimensions for the location of the main hole on the wing. Fixing holes I can work out. regards Chris

I have done what Mark has done, but instead of cutting a new hole in the air box, I am just running with the orginal hole from which I removed the wing connector pipe. So air is just being sucked in behind the battery. I haven't noticed any lack of power or any problems so far and can't see why I would have any. This isn't a long term solution mind, it was just so I could have my second battery wired up and installed while I saved my pennies for safari's finest. I am going for the 200 Tdi air box and Snorkel like orgasmic farmer has done. Looks tidier and easier to install IMHO. hope this helps Eeyore

Our Challenge Truck is running KAM Lockers and LSDs (but then we do work for KAM) Moose is also running KAM lockers with open diffs. We are are doing the TAT this year with Moose. Zolly does a lot of UK competition events and runs KAM gear We have fitted the KAM lockers to quite a few trucks, and I know quite several hundreds have been sold, So they are out there... whether they check this forum regularly is unknown. Keep looking dave, I'm sure you'll see some soon. Eeyore

An RD56 will still live dispite the owner damaging the axle to allow cracks to propagate, allowing sand and poo to get into the oil, resulting in a pinion head failing, such the pins falling out, wedging the pinion solid, locking the differential and causeing the propshaft to twist itself in two. A bit a a clean and the diff went back to gether no probs. Says a thing or two about the KAM crown wheel and pinion on the RD56 too, not a lot about the driver though I'm afraid. Thats about right right isn't it Nige? Ps - Both Lockers do the same job, just do it in different ways, AIR works well and works for some, others find the air's reliability isn't great and prefer the 'leccy version. Horses for courses. For what it's worth my humble oppinion is to go for KAM's as I like the cover, like the electricity and I havn't heard many tails of a solenoid failing, I cant say the same of the air sealing and / or compressor's failing. KAM's system is a bit more involved, but once its done, not a lot to worry about. My oppinion, others may disagree. Eeyore

I have to say, as smooth and quite as engines are, along with the transmission, tyre noise, road noise etc, theres a lot of noise to be had from a disco. Are you sure its the dampers? If your on your disco are leaking, then I suppose that they could hiss, but I would be surprised if you could hear that when driving. And if they are leaking, then they probably wont be dampening very well, in which case I would have thought that they could fail an MOT (depending on how nice mr MOT man is). Way to check to see if dampers aren't working is to 'bounce' a corner of the disco when it's parked. If the car only bounces once or twice, shocks should be fine, but if the car continues to bounce, shocks probably have had it. Can you locate roughly where the hissing is coming from? header tank can hiss when it's revealing pressure, a split intake hose could hiss, turbo's gives a little whistle when boosting. Maybe door seals (mine are awful) can allow air noise to come though. Disco's springs / anti roll bars / bushes / gearbox (basically most parts) can all creek / groan or hiss. Mine makes all sorts of noises. If you can locate the hiss's source that would probably help you pin point the culprit. I think that's why Sterio's were standard, so as to drown out all the noises. Eeyore

Nige I am looking at fitting some water to my discovery, but I must say I am a bit of a novice on Land Rovers, any tips on how to fit water to a discovery 300 Tdi What kind of water do you use to fit to your Land Rover?? Cheers in advance Eeyore

Wanting to put a snorkel onto the disco now. Looking at going Safari as i prefer the looks of them, and if I'm splashing out the money snorkels seem to go for, I want somthing that looks like it cost that much to make. Anyway, my question is as I am running a second battery behind the near side head light. Can I run a 300 Tdi snorkel, or do I get a 200 Tdi snorkel. I have been under the assumption that if I were to run the 300 type, then I have there the airbox fitting and the battery have to fight for space, however if I were to run the 200 type, the pipe work enters the enginer bay further back, thus my battery can live in peace. Has any one fitted a 300tdi with snorkel and second battery? Any thoughts? Cheers

Im Running Bearmach +2" HD springs and Toughback dampers to suit all round. The set up is a bit hard for a comfy relaxed drive, but good for hooning it around corners and softens up nicely when loaded up. Its a good set up for me as I do a lot of the latter two.

I agree with the induction comment. The turbo will produce more boost when under load (when driving) so a squeal may be evident when driving, but not when static as there is no load on the engine. The pipe between the intercooler and the inlet manifold has a tendency to pop off. ensure that the pipe is secure and air tight, check (with washing up liquid) that there are no leaks in the system. Intercoolers can get pinprick holes in them which obviously will cause a leak. Not common but not impossible either. If the noise is only under acceleration and not apparent when static, I would assume that the above makes sense and these are what I would try and eliminate first.

I agree with the induction comment. The turbo will produce more boost when under load (when driving) so a squeal may be evident when driving, but not when static as there is no load on the engine. The pipe between the intercooler and the inlet manifold has a tendency to pop off. ensure that the pipe is secure and air tight, check (with washing up liquid) that there are no leaks in the system. Intercoolers can get pinprick holes in them which obviously will cause a leak. Not common but not impossible either. If the noise is only under acceleration and not apparent when static, I would assume that the above makes sense and these are what I would try and eliminate first.

I put in the dickie seats that weren't present in my 300. All the necessary screw holes that were need were on the truck. so the seats went straight on. Also I have noticed that I have the wiring plugs for the electric rear windows, which is nice but unnecessary on the 3 door disco. I know its not quite the answer you were looking for but my point is that Land Rover seem lazy and just make the body work the same for all spec. So you may find that as the body hasn't really changed that much between the 200 to 300, only the dash, the bracketry may probably be the same.

I had a simmilar problem when laning in Salisbury What Mine turned out to be was the Flasher relay had gotten wet and was making the flashers / indicators go off all time. Turning the ignition off, disconnecting the battery for 5 mins didn't help, nor did playing with all the buttons like a toddler. I did however notice that the central locking had also stopped working. Locating (passenger foot well) and unplugging the flasher relay for a day fixed the flashing problem. Tried to re-seat the relay, but that didn't help. The 'mutant healing power' of the land rover fixed the central locking itself. I have an early 300 TDI with the single button fob - so don't know if its the same problem as yours, but sounds similar.

I found the unit and the antenna (runs up the left side of the windscreen) seems to be connected. So I may pull the ECU out and apart to see if there is anything apparent and wrong with that. I had the hazards constantly going off a while back when 'laning, which turned out to be the relay that flashed the indicators when the central locking activated got wet. Unplugging that for a day and re-attaching seemed to 'dry?' out the connections and resolve the problem. maybe water has gotten into the alarm/central locking ECU and caused it to fail somewhere. any one know of anything I should look for?

Hi, I have been surfing the net to try and find a solution to my problem with my Key fob I have a 1994 300 Tdi with the single button key fob. The remote central (key fob) worked until the button on the PCB broke off the PCB. I re-soldered the button to the PCB and got the fob working again this worked for a short period of time, then the remote central locking stopped working. Since then the remote central locking has not worked. The remote central locking works if I use the Key in the drivers door lock. But the fob doesn't do anything. I replaced the battery's in fob as this is in some discussions - no resolve. So I thought that maybe I just needed to re-program the fob to the car. So surfed again to find the re-programming sequence, did it till the LED in the car illuminates but when I press the button on the fob, the LED in the car doesn't flash. So I figured that the FOB signal is either not being sent or not being recieved. As such I thought that I damaged the fob whilst soldering, so I bought another fob, which also doesn't work. This leads me to believe that the signal receiver in the car central locking ECU isn't working or has failed. Basically I havn't seen any where on the net that anyone has had a similar problem. If any one knows of a known cause of failure or resolve I would be keen to know. Chris