crispyme

I have to say, I like the KAM kit, it is a strong and simple kit that makes it reliable. Toad and I, along with Moose as our team mate have used them hard and they have held up. But that is what you expect if you buy this kind of kit. Granted I am a bit biased as I worked for KAM HOWEVER The Ashcroft kit looks like a really well designed and priced piece of kit, that if I was to look for another set of lockers would think hard about not choosing the Ashcroft Locker. They have done testing and seem to have come up rosey, I would question anyone who buys an ARB. If you are looking at using your diffs hard, the one thing I would think about is availability and cost of spares / repairs, ARB kit has to come through Devon, KAM is pretty simple and shouldn't suffer too much but if any thing does fail (not that I have known of any) most the parts aren't wallet friendly. Hope that helps a little Eeyore

If you are going to go for an LSD and may want a locker later - get a KAM LSD with locking end flange fitted. Give them a call - Talk to Nige - AKA Hybrid from hell (he's a bit of a pleb - but nice enough ) Eeyore

After you turn the compressor on, it pumps and primes the system, then stops pumping. Occasionally when the pressure drops (espicially when you use the locker a lot of times under one 'charge')the compressor will kick in again to build up the pressure.. but a valve holds the pressure... or ties to... The KAM system has something like a 40A 'burst' to activate the solenoid, and then a second or so after a 0.5A drain when the locker is engaged to hold the solenoid. Eeyore

Like moose said, you can - but not advisable... if your on terrain that requires lockers, and your doing 60mph, you have some balls...! But not only that, it won't do the diff a lot of favours. ARB and KAM can both cope with 'crash engagement' KAM suggest 5-10mph but thats to be safe. The diffs can probably cope with more than that, but the wear and fatigue it will cause will reduce the life of the diff... but that goes for any 'demand locking differential' Eeyore

If you're going to go trutrac (Torque biasing Differential isn't it??) Which I believe is the same as what Quaife do. You could consider KAM. As their system in modular, you can start off with the clutch based LSD system to get around with, see how you get on and then go and add the upgrade cost to make it a locker. In my most humblest of oppinions, LSD are great for road and semi-tractive surfaces. So getting up a hill where you may lose traction on one of the wheels - Works a treat, On road - awsome... Going cross-axled - be prepared to be a little disapointed. LSD's (which include the Quiafe ATB and trutrac) are there to Limit the amount of slip, they don't lock up the differential. I have LSD's front and rear on the disco - think they're great but they are not the same as having lockers. I'm doing what I suggested and got the LSD's with the locking section on the differential, installed and ran with only LSD's while I save up to get the lockers. I spose there is a cost factor involved in lockers vs LSD's, but if you're like most of us, you will inevitably end up with lockers one day, just as I keep saying that my disco is fine on 33" tyres... I bet you any money that will end up with 35" some day...

I recon that won't be a problem .. 'Cause by the time you eventually get your engine in ... sorry ... If you ever get your engine in... you won't have enough money to buy new boots...

As long as the front Axle isn't connected you can drive around in Centre diff. lock You may find it a bit 'bangy' when you pull away or take up drive, this is due to the backlash in the locking ring in the T'box - but it's fine .. It's a "Land Rover thing" But you're fine to drive around in rear axle / centre diff lock Eeyore

Nothing too drastic at the mo, as mine are currently 255/85, just a camel cut and some slight trimming, but expect to cut more away soon... Thanks about the info, I'm keen on having somthing a bit different and lasting, hence these silverstones.. also the cos is the more appealing factor.. Eeyore

Hey guys, looking at getting some new boots for the disco, and in doing so, came across these Silverstone MT117 Sport 4x4 Tyre. They look pretty good, and read a couple of reviews over in Australia where I read some promising reports. Just wandered if anyone has come across them before or know anything about them. I'm basically torn between these and the BFG's KM2, but the silverstones I can get for about £120 a corner where the KM2's are around £140 (285/75/16). Any thoughts? Eeyore

" had this problem, drove me mad for 9 months till I found the answer by accident. The flash hazards function is fused on the same fuse as the headlight washer pump. If your headlight washer pump goes faulty and causes the fuse to blow it takes out the flash function as well." Bl**dy hell... I have been doing with out the flashing indicators for ages... I had a problem where the flasher relay got wet and continued flashing regardless of hazards were on/off/indicating, car on/off etc...so disconnected that and let it dry out (it was the one by the alarm ECU) and that sorted, then the ECU died, replaced that, then the lights stopped flashing... I just put it down to an old Disco and one of the "It's a Land Rover" things.. However, being that I have removed the front bumper for a winch version, and simply pulled the fuse out so that the headlight washers dint squirt washer fluid in the engine bay... I'll do the proper job and disconnect the pump and put the fuse back in... Massive DOH! moment...

I Was having a discussion with a colleague as to why Land Rover changed the front axle set up between the Discovery / Range Rover and the Defender with regards to the Steering box arm, steering damper location etc. Being that they're all interchangeable why didn't Land Rover just settle with one set up to use on all the vehicles... Who has an in-depth knowledge to the black hole that is Land Rovers thoughts and process? There may be a prize for the most logical (correct?) answer... ....maybe... Eeyore

Gazelle I know that D2 had different stud PCD than that of D1's and Defenders. So I would imagine that the D4 will also be different. Other thing to consider is gearing if tyre's diameter are different Apart from those little nuggets of information can't help you more... Can you not just try one on the front to see for any interference? Eeyore

I'm running the 200 Tdi snorkel on my 300 Tdi. I basically changed the 300 Tdi airbox for a 200 Tdi one, and plumbed the pipework that came with the 200 box into the pipework that went into the 300 box. Think I used a bit of tubing to connect the two pipes up. Granted mine is a bit bodgey doing it this way - but it works fine and was cheaper than getting new pipes. the differences between the 200 and 300 snorkels are where the snorkel comes through the inner wing. There are also two versions for the 300 tdi, one with ABS the other without. The ABS module gets in the way so the snorkel passes through the in-front of the 300 air box, the non ABS comes through behind the air box. The problem you might have is that I believe the 200 snorkel comes through where the air box is (may be wrong)but also safari issued kits where you had to modify the air box to allow the snorkel to work. In my humble opinion (what ever that is worth) is that you get yourself a 200tdi air box (your defender one may work - not sure if they're the same or not) and plumb that in. I'm not sure what you mean about "2 hole needs to be made in a different place" but basically if you were to bolt that 'template' wing onto you 300 tdi truck, and cut a hole in your inner wing (there is an imprint on your inner wing of what roughly needs to be cut out) then that will work perfectly. The only holes you should need to cut should be on your outer wing which will be the same as the template wing, and the inner wing. Sorry if thats a bit rambley... Eeyore

The arches that I recon best are the Flexi arches. Haven't got any expierence of them other than their video but in my oppinion look like standard LR arches but are flexable enough... Was thinking of some for the Disco. Flexi arches They're not far off the price of the QT/D44 ones but actually have some shape / look to them... Eeyore

Our Comp truck is running the Gwyn hook re-location cones, with +3" springs and +5" terra firma remote shocks. Our articulation is more than enough. Relocation cones' hooks have managed to save the axle of Moose's truck too when his a-frame joint went. They stopped the axle rotating around too much. Not a design but a useful side effect. I would always go Gwyn stuff, its nice, original, thought out kit and never over priced. MHO is go with the Gwyn stuff If some P&P sites don't allow relocation (never heard of before) just use a jubilee clip of two at the top of the springs to retain them for these odd occasions Eeyore

Discovery's are pretty 'wollowy' at the best of times. However, a '95 is quite old, so bush's can be worn if they havn't been changed since. Mine is stiffer when I changed my springs - but I put HD springs on so can't give you a good idea about what they should move, mine is about 1" of moving, but that's me pushing on the bumper, not jumping up on the bumper. Axle bush's make quite a bit of difference though... might be worth a look there first.. Eeyore

Aragorn Cheers for that, so basiclly to run the ignition switch live through the kill switch from the ignition to the main relay - Is that right? Ie cut the wire and connect one half that to one connection and the other half to the other? Cheers Eeyore

Hi Hoping that someone may have a better idea than I do when it comes to wiring. Trying to install an FIA kill switch with the instructions that came with it. Which is as follows: The truck that it's being installed into has been megasquirted by Mr Hybrid. Thing is when I wired it up, it wouldn't kill the engine when the switch was turned. I wired it up as the diagram described, the two things that I wasn't sure about was the wire to use from the ignition switch, and the Ignition Coil. I used the switch ignition live from the main relay for the mega squirt, and the coil pack/fuel pump/lambda wire from the fuel pump relay. The only thing I can think of is that the main ignition wire should be cut, and the two remaining wires are to be connected to both terminals of number 2. This would make sense to me as it would cut the power from the ignition going to the main relay. Is this the case? Any help would be appriciated. And I appologise for any obvious shoolboy error's I may have made. Cheers Eeyore

Ryck , cheers for that - thats a good test. Mike - Can you PM me your address so I can send you the template I have. I haven't got round to scanning it so I will just send you my template... If you are anything like I was you'll be desperate to put the snorkel on... Hope thats ok... Eeyore

Mike I have just fitted a 200 Tdi safari Snorkel to my 300 Tdi Disco... I traced a local 4x4 garage's template. I will see if I can scan it so that you can print it off... something that I was intending to do anyway as I spent a while looking for one. Let me have a go at work and I'll see what I can do. Worst case is a do another tracing and send that to you. As for the fitting, I think that you'll have to cut the hole out in the side of the engine bay. There should be an indentation from when the 200's used it, so its a case of cutting that out and adapting some sort of filter to work. I used the 200 Tdi airbox and pipework and loads of silicon. One thing I did have to do was make the air box inlet pipe OD bigger as it didn't fit into the snorkel snuggly... I had some rubber boot that just fitted with a bit of streaching and that did the job, again, loads of silicon. Not sure why this didn't fit better, I may have been missing somthing. I haven't "taken the plunge" and tested the snorkel out, but have full confidence in it. Can take some pics if required. Eeyore

Got any Pic's Tony? Eeyore

I had Anti-Roll bar brackets brake off of the chassis ... Land rover decided that a few 2mm long welds along the brackes would be enough to hold on the bracket, which is true for 17 years, but obviously not for over that. Defenders interestingly enough are fully welded around the braket, and these were for an optional extra... Ended up just removing the ARB anyway... just a little poke at Land Rovers ability to build cars Eeyore

Hey guys, hoping for a little help. I know this has some what been discussed, but I'm still not clear. I'm currently installing two batteries to the challenge truck as we discovered 1 battery can't cope with powering an 8274 and keeping a Megas***e *ah hem* Squirt'd V8 engine running. So we have two batteries, and 3 make/break allbrights solenoids. One to kill vehicle, one to isolate rear winch and one to isolate front winch. The two winch allbrights are powered off the Vehicle allbright. It is my understanding that FIA want all electrical systems to be killed by one switch. but we can also isolate the winches independently. Hope this makes sense. Now we have a split charge system (Tmax one) to allow charging the two batteries. However, the way that I have set up the isolator switchs I would have to have the winches running off the main battery opposed to the aux battery, this basically means that a split charge system will only seperate the two batteries when the vehcile is switched off, but apart from that act as a cable connecting the two battery's in series, and such allow the winch to drain the batterys (albeit over a longer period of time) and still allow the V8 to stall. My thought is to have another Make/break relay that will be between the batteries in series to seperate the batteries until needed (when one is flat or extra power needed to help winches) I must admit I'm new to this, so any thoughts would be appriciated Cheers Eeyore

Does your central locking still work with the key? I had a problem where the remote stopped working, I tried everything and it ended up being the central locking ECU that had failed. I have the earlier system (single button fob) but I believe that there is a 'spider' that can go on the two button fob system, I came across some topics on these when I was looking for help with my problem, but obviously these didn't help. May be worth re-syncing the fob to truck, should be in the manual, or go to someone who has a testbook HTH Eeyore

I've been thinking about converting to vented on the fronts for a bit now. Car is used for Towing and road quite a bit. People I spoke to about this state that the vaines will fill up with mud. But I'm not so sure about this. Granted watery / sloppy mud can get in, but vaines are designed to suck air in from the centre of the rotor and out of the end centrifugally. So this makes me think that any mud that can get in there can also get out, especially when the wheel is rotating at any reasonable speed. I agree that off road there isn't much of a benefit as generally the brakes aren't used in as much 'anger' than on the road. But I don't see, other than costing beer tokens, that there is a negative to having vented disc's off road. So I'm still looking at getting the vented for mine. MHO Eeyore