fearofweapons

Thanks all. I shall now retire to the 'workshop' - I may be some time!

Fridge - I would have sent you mine if I found it ( I couldn't despite finding some quite amazing 'dashboard fluff' down the crack. ) On Saturday we replaced the whole thing with a new switch, steering lock and key assembly. I immediately noticed an improvement in starting - the car now starts on the first turn of the key with no cranking - so the switch must have been fairly bad when we bought the car. Also the key now goes in and out with minimal wiggling - before it would sometimes get stuck. Now I just need to work out what on earth the relay does that is wired into the live feed to the switch and the relay output into the coil - so the coil would appear to be always energised... oh you gotta love PO shenanigans with wiggly fizz. Time to put on my well insulated boots I fear.

All, many thanks for the advice so far. The old box is apart and, after liberal heating and help from a friend, the steering arm eventually came off. Although I am not replacing the bush for the steering arm ( Part 18 in the diagram ) I could not readily see it would be removed were I to do so. The lip inside is very fine. How have others removed the bush? ( I did manage to get the washer and O ring out fairly easily. ) At some point this week I will rebuild it, I expect grease and balls every where. During the rebuild have people left the main nut and recirculating channel built up, greased the balls to keep them in and the fed the whole thing onto the end of the worm gear as you fed the inner back into the box. Or have you built up the end races, got the inner column in place and then built the main nut and recirculating channel up around the worm? ( This you tube video, for a different steering box, shows building up the main nut and channel around the worm drive - I know it's not a Landy and to may not work - just looking for thoughts and past experiences - . )

Thanks Steve - I wonder if that fell out when I removed the switch and is rattling around in the dash somewhere? It might be time to get one of my children, with smaller hands than mine, to have a furtle...

The diesel ignition switch, with steering lock, on the Series 3 was playing up so I ordered a new petrol one. I ordered up part PRC8230R however on trying to fit it I found it was smaller than the lock mechanism and so would not fit. In addition I have no idea how the old switch ever worked - the bar from the lock to the old switch is far to small and has real problems turning it. However the bar is a good fit for the new switch. Can anyone tell me what the correct part number is please for a 'fatter' petrol switch? Or am I better just buying a complete new assembly? In which case would an early 90/110 ignition switch with steering lock assembly fit or do I need a specific series III one? The photos below show the old switch and how the bar does not really fit along with the outer dimensions of old lock. You can also see the new lock and how it does not fit. As always any help much appreciated. regards, Richard

Sorry for using technical jargon late at night.... I have a 2nd hand series III steering column and associated box on the end. Before fitting it I'd like to service it if such a thing is possible. A quick search has not shown me anything in the tech archive (nor on the wider net). Could any one point me in the general direction of a duffers guide to serviceing such things please? (and tell me what the box on the end of the column is really called?) Would it be covered in the workshop manual? In which case could anyone let me have sight of the relevant pages please? Many thanks Richard

we had a similar problem - turned out to be a tiny ( size of a grain of rice ) tree bud that had been sucked into the fuel pipe in the tank and then got stuck. It was just small enough to allow enough fuel past for tick over and short periods of revving on the drive. However go anywhere and the reservoir of fuel in the in line filter got used up and then starved the engine. We found it by working back from the carb until the fuel pipe tank to pump was all that was left. Sucking on the pipe ( out of the tank! ) showed it was blocked. Blasting, against normal fuel flow direction, with an airline ejected the bud and normal service was resumed. I now have a new gauze filter to fit to the fuel pipe in the tank - I wonder how long that will sit on the shelf....

So that particular problem is now solved. Many thanks for everyone's input. Turns out a small bud from a tree, previous owner as we don't have any of those trees, was wedged up the fuel intake pipe in the tank. It allowed enough fuel past for it to run on tick over but slowly starved it of fuel when under load. You live and learn.

So no sucking around intake manifold. Will work through earths. Also going to check that non of the components put on are faulty. When restarting after a failure sometimes it will just start right back up - other times it takes a bit of cranking. But it cranks strongly.

Thanks we'll give that a go.

Timing light - yes we have had one on and it sparks all the way through. Also had a false plug on and could watch the spark - although we could hear it seeming to vary in strength a bit but no much. Hunting - not really. I sometimes think it feels a bit lumpy in the lead up but not strongly and no other changes discernable.

Gents thanks for the replies. Not tried a separate fuel can but we are not seeing any contamination evidence and flow remains good. Readings - voltage into the coil remains good. We have even linked +ve battery direct to coil input. Not checked earthing though so will add to the list. The new card came with new solenoids and I hear them click open with power applied and fuel flow into carb seems good from observation with out air inlet on.

So you may have seen my previous posts about the trouble I'm having with my 2.5 petrol transplant into SIII. We have; changed the carb for a new one, changed the in line fuel filter, checked the fuel pump, changed the HT leads, changed the coil and condenser and points, checked the spark plugs, checked for vacuum leaks, checked the spark AND it still fails. Symptoms are it will start and run you can rev or leave ticking over but within a couple of mins it just dies away as if the power were cut; regardless if hot or cold. We have run without airfilter on - still fails. We have watched into the carb and fuel is still flowing - the in line filter is still full after it dies. We are stumped. At this point just about any suggestion will be welcomed. We are supposed to be going away next w/e and that is in doubt now 🙁 cheers Richard

sorted now

Hello, has anyone got a known good carb for a petrol 2.5l engine out of a 90 and now in a SIII please? The current Weber 32/34 dtml one is, according to the mechanic totally stuffed :-( and a new one required. ( Apparently my servicing wasn't enough :-( to save it ) many thanks, Richard.

sorry it's taken a while to get back to you. I took lots of photos and found it reasonably straight forward - just took my time and tried to be methodical. The most difficult part was re -fitting the accelerator cable at the end of the process. I did not replace the bushes for the pump arm (?) as that moved nice and smoothly. It's still nor running right but have now got an air hose with only two holes in, one at each end, and also I think might have cured some air bleeding into the fuel line so need to get it up to temp and then have a go at setting the carb up properly. When we got it the solenoids were not connected and I think the adjustment screws and been messed with to get it running. We are getting there slowly.

If it will 'almost' run without a pump I wonder if my issue could be air being sucked in somewhere OR I suppose the fuel tank breather being blocked and preventing enough fuel being sucked through?

Gents, thanks for the replies. It's a SWB and I do get a good squirt of fuel when starting up. The HT leads, dizzy cap, rotor arm, condenser and points are all brand spanking new from me. The coil is believed to be new from the previous owner ( it was his rebuild project and I think we are getting the teething problems :-( ) I suppose I could whip that out and see. I don't think it is heat related as it can happen within a mile of home ( setting off )

Hello, It looks like I am getting no where with sorting the fuel starvation problems of the 2.5 petrol in the SIII. ( Car will run for anything from a couple of hundred yards to a few miles than start getting very lumpy ( kangarooing ) and will stall at the drop of hat, usually happens going up hill but not always.) So I am looking to fit an electric fuel pump. I have a number of questions I'm hoping the forum can assist with; Those who have gone down this route can you suggest an electric fuel pump that would do the job? Would you recommend plumbing the pump in in series to the existing fuel pump, I assume it should go in before rather than after? If plumbing to bypass the mechanical fuel pump should the mechanical pump be removed or left in situ? If left should I put a loop of hose on it and leave it with fuel in to has something to pump or remove it? If I remove it I assume I need to blank the hole left off? Many thanks, Richard

Sorted! I had to sort of half put the locking barrel in and then twist around 180 degrees to let the cable 'slip' in. Only one plaster required so I consider that a win. :-)

Gent's I now have the carb serviced but I can't for the life of me get the bally accelerator cable back on. Any tips please?

Gents - many thanks for the model number and info on what the solenoids do. I'll look at testing out the wiring while I order up a service kit - £20ish to £30ish for a kit. All kits, I have found, say no needles included. Is it worth ordering new needles? If so anyone know the appropriate needle for a Landy Petrol 2.5 engine?

Hello, We have a 2.5 petrol with a Weber Carb on it which needs servicing. How do I tell which Weber it is so I can order the correct servicing kit please? ( Engine runs rich, when running, and is prone to cut out with fuel starvation although plenty of fuel in the filter and pressure when running. ) Also anyone got any details on what the electrical connections are for and how/why they should be wired up? It does run at the moment ( mostly ) so the electrical things are not critical to running. Many thanks, Richard

Many thanks for the suggestions. I had thought about the boy racer route / some wire reinforced cold air ducting but wanted to keep it as stock as possible. I know the hoses would last a long time but I would still have to get new custom ones at some point. I was also thinking the diesel hose might work. Looking on the Craddocks site the picture there looks very similar to the hose I have but perhaps with the ends cut off? https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/series/series-2/parts/fuel-system/90509730-air-intake-hose-2-25-diesel.html So I might give that a try and see where it leads.

Hello, I have a series 3 that has a transplanted 2.5l 90/110 engine in it that the previous owner dropped in. The hose between the air filter and carb inlet is splitting and I am seeking a replacement. However from searching on here, and other places, I am given to understand that because the inlet to the carburettor faces the 'wrong way' a longer than normal hose is required - the normal 2.25 engine hose will not reach. My searching also failed to come up with a documented solution. Could anyone suggest a part number for a suitable replacement or some other solution please? Many thanks, Richard