fearofweapons

Thanks everyone for input and suggestions. So Autosparks got back to me saying that the plugs are injection moulded for them in house and the plug can not be bought to sire up at home. They do sell the individual plugs and sockets though so I could make up ends to connect to the one in the picture - which at the moment is looking like the best way forward. cheers, Richard.

Hi, I am about to replaced the indicator/headlight stalk on the SIII. The PO has made some modifications to the wiring and I would like to try to return a few of the wires to a semblance of originality. I need to source a 3 pin - 2 female / 1 male connector to fit the plug in the photos. I have had a look on line but cannot find one, TBH I don't even know what these are called - other than you b*£$!^&d son of a gun when you are struggling to get them undone and then they suddenly 'go' and you slice the back of your hand open on the sharp edge of the dash! So if anyone could point me to a source or tell me the proper name so I could search that would be appreciated.

So quick update.... Once I investigated properly I found that the fuel sender unit was not fastened down properly - it had a good 2mm+ 'float' up and down and was missing a screw; that may have been the main culprit. I have replaced all the seals leading into the tank and replaced the screws as the heads were a little chewed. After a test drive the smell of petrol is much reduced. Hurrah! 😀

right - ignore that - found a solution. 😊 https://www.autosparks.co.uk/electrical-components/plugs-connectors/automotive-plugs/hazard-warning-switch-plug-complete-with-terminals.html regards, Richard

Hello, I need to wire a, old style from a early 110, hazard switch but do not have the socket for the switch to go into. Would anyone know if the sockets can be bought on their own or can suggest an alternative? cheers, Richard

Right some seals ordered and when they come I'll check the pipe as well. Don't know when I'll get chance to fit as life ( well death specifically ) is keeping us busy at the moment. I'll update the thread once I've done the work. cheers, Richard

Thanks for the replies. Yes had it running stationary and checked the fuel lines - no splits or leaks found. Re the tank - what needs checking for being sealed? The pipe connections? What's the best thing to use to seal them? Cheers Richard

Hi, my wife's Series III with a 90 2.5 petrol webber carb'ed engine quite often stinks of petrol in the cab when its being driven. I do not think there is fuel leaking out around the carb - I have checked with it running and can see no drips. What is the most likely culprit for strong petrol fumes? cheers, Richard ( with a petrol headache )

many thanks for the reply. I think I have, finally, found the part numbers ... a) Bell Housing Stud 247145 / TE110061L b) I don't think my description was very good. It's actually the Land Rover Handbrake Back Plate Gasket, 561856 c) I think that yes I was talking about the early mount - the part is 90217976 Stud for Gearbox Foot. Those studs are hard to find on the parts diagrams ( well I thought so but then I had mislaid my glasses.... ) My local fastenings company does not stock the studs so I'll be ordering those up via a LR parts supplier - along with the gasket. regards, Richard

Hi, Following on from my thread about gear box swap out. Can anyone give me... a) specs for the bell housing to engine studs please? I think some one said they are metric? b) part number for the seal on the back of the hand brake plate. ( Not the felt one - I be far a look in the parts book but can't see for looking 😕) c) the gear box mounts to the supports using studs. Why can't those be bolts? Thanks Richard

Thanks snagger for the pointer - new rubbers fitted today to the refurbished mounts. Just need the gearbox now...

Snagger - thanks for the recommendation. Do you a have a link to Mr Embertons ebay shop please? I have done a quick search on ebay but not been able to find him. ( The problem is probably between the seat and the keyboard on that one! 😉 )

Hi Gazzer, The high low selector is partially undone, to make access to a nut easier, so it's floppy about a bit. Yes the access plate / main stick bell housing mount is a mess. We are finding the previous owner made some interesting 'improvements'!

well it's a start...

Thanks Peter for the suggestion. Having recently replaced the bulkhead on my 110 I am all too familiar with the challenges of seat box / floor panel removal.

Hi Gazzer, yes I have a parts manual. I am hoping to secure a refurbished gearbox and transferbox combo so I *think* I would only need a couple of seals for that? If anyone can educate me otherwise please feel free. Looks like the Ashcroft route is out at the moment - at a 4-6 week lead time for a modified transfer case and then getting the two boxes rebuilt would see us out of time. 😞 It might be something to put on the back burner 'till later - which is a shame as it will cost me extra - ah well.

Thanks for the suggestions so far - the clutch one sounds a jolly good idea, I had over looked that. I have yet to source a replacement Gearbox so I'm not expecting to be doing this in the next week but we need it done for mid August so not much time to waste. I am also going to explore getting the Ashcroft higher ratio transfer box option ( I saw the post about that on here ). The 90 2.5 petrol would be fine with longer legs and it would make motoring, noise and fuel, much less painful. cheers, Richard

Ditto for the relay. I replaced bushes and steering box and arms on a SIII. Got tracking done - steering was scary. The relay had seized - once replaced all was much better.

Hello all, It looks like I am going to have to swap out my wife's SIII 1974 SWB gearbox and transfer box. While doing it I am going to take the opportunity to replace the rubber mounts. Is there anything else you would recommend I should do while I am there? Any tips /tricks appreciated; under or over extraction, which bolt always shears off, etc. Never done one before. Gulp! If any one has a list of required seal part numbers that would save me some time too 😉 The engine it's mated to is a 2.5 petrol out of an early 90 ( I belive).

Thanks lo-fi - I thought that was the case but just had one of those brain fart moments this morning. Yes everything was greased up like a suckling pig at the fair and nothing tightened until after the vehicle had been placed back on its wheels, bounced and driven back and forth a little. I hope I never have to do the bushes again or can afford to have someone else do them next time. 😏 cheers, Richard.

Hello, I have just replaced the bushes on all four corners of the SWB SIII. The spring hangers are threaded on one side and then have a nut on the bolt as well. Should the hanger be free to move or should I do the bolt / hanger up to 'the tightness' and then wind the nut on to act as a lock nut to the hanger? Cheers Rich

I agree and will be submitting it for a pre-MOT anyway. You really can not mess with this sort of thing and better to be safe than not.

So.... the SIII 1st registered in 1975 has it's MOT due at the end of the month. It is now registered as an historic vehicle. When we bought it it had a 90 2.5 petrol engine in it - we are told it was originally diesel. We are not sure when the petrol was put in but probably within the last 30 years. Given that an engine change is listed as a substantive change exempting the vehicle from the MOT exemption BUT such swaps were carried out within the first 10 years of the end of production would the advice of this group be that the vehicle is now exempt from needing an MOT? ( At least I think such swaps were carried out in the 10 years post production stopping of the SIII ) This URL is the official gov link for information if that helps. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/historic-classic-vehicles-mot-exemption-criteria/historic-classic-vehicles-mot-exemption-criteria#acceptable-changes regards, Richard

Many thanks.

Hi, Going to look at a 2nd hand series 3 gear box and over drive combo. Over drive described as good and gear box as 'notchy'. Nevr bought a gear box or over drive before so would be greatful for any advice that can be offered. Both are currently in the vehicle so can be driven. Many thanks Richard