fearofweapons

That's great - many thanks. I have now seen a couple of sets come up so will keep my eyes open for a set at a reasonable price close to home. cheers, Richard

Hello, I have a 1975 SIII short wheel base with tubed rims, tubes and tyres. What are my options for replacing these with alternate wheels that are tubeless? Ideally I would like something that is in keeping with the original steel wheels in terms of look etc. Even if they do not come in the correct colour that can be rectified at a later date. The current tyres need replacing and so I'm probably looking for a wheel /tyre package. regards, Richard

Hello, over the weekend I bled the brakes on my 110 which has disks at the front and drums on the rear. On Monday evening I set off and tested the brakes before leaving the drive - they were nice and sharp responding crisply to pressure on the pedal. However after using them a few times they have reverted to being a little 'squidgy' . While not as bad as before they are not as good as when I first tried them. The bleeding was done with a Gunsson brake bleed kit and fresh off the shelf unopened DOT4 fluid. (I drained all the old fluid out. ) Can anyone enlighten me as to why the brakes go softer? Do I need to re-bleed or just leave the bleeding things alone and be thankful I have something that works a little better than a rusty ship anchor to slow me down? ;-) regards, Richard

We use some like in the link below mounted to the rail just below the roof. https://images.weflubit.com/c/2000/2000/0d8f9f86-0fb0-5ac1-9c9d-0dc8eb36c4c1-original.jpg

Hello, you may have seen my wanted post ( ) but can any one tell me if TDCi 2nd row doors would fit a 89/90 110 please? It will give me a wider range of options if they do. many thanks, Richard

Gents, many thanks for the replies. So... if I strip of the tape from the wiring loom at the rear I should find the towing electrics as a separate bundle that goes up into the rear offside light cover/cluster/wiring rats nest? Does the near side indicator also 'surface' in that corner - I'm assuming it must do for the towing electrics? I have checked the earths - not that simple :-( but thanks for the reminder. I'm thinking I may have to strip everything back to that offside corner, sort out the wiring rats nest and then make up a new 'mini' loom to go to the near side corner and the towing socket. urgh - and it's raining.... :-(

Hi My towing and near side rear electrics have failed. Is everything taken from the offside electrics or from somewhere else? 200tdi 1990 110 for reference. Thx Rich

Hi, My bonnet 'skin' has parted company with the frame resulting in a rattle at idle. Any suggestions on a suitable glue, and technique, to bring them back together? Or were they never that close? 1990 110 w/o spare wheel mount - if that makes any difference? Cheers Rich

sweet - looks like I've ordered the right arm then. :-) Once again many thanks all for everyone's help and advice.

Thanks for the replies guys - I think my preference is to replace the arm so it's easier to get replacement blades in the future. However the current arm is bolted to the spindle rather than an inference fitting as per the front ones. So it looks like LR033006 would be the correct replacement to give me a 'normal' hook fitting - the same as the front ones?

Hello, the rear wiper blade on my 1990 110 has / is disintegrating. I went to my local Halfords however they no longer stock a replacement. Can anyone suggest somewhere else that would? I have attached a picture of the arm and blade fitting. The alternative, I guess, would be swap the wiper arm for one that will accept a 'modern' blade. Would anyone have any suggestions regarding that please? regards, Richard

Hello, I was wallowing under my 1989 110 SW 200TDi replacing the front diff input flange and seal to stop a leak there. (The axle breather is free and clear. ) Looking up I noticed the oil pressure switch is covered in, engine, oil. The oil appears to be leaking out at the switch. The switch itself works as the light on the dash seems to work as expected. So I'm thinking of ordering up a new oil pressure switch and fitting it. Is there anything else I should think about when doing this that it might be? ( I didn't get time to get a spanner on it and nip it up which I might try before replacing TBH. ) cheers, Rich T

Thanks gents - as the engine is not original to the vehicle I have no idea if it needs an ESR266 or not. The downpipe has a t-bar on, two holes one either side of the pipe, as opposed to a single hole. I'm going to try to have a look later today, if I get chance. However there will be no surprises if the down pipe holes and the engine holes don't match. ( i.e. the engine doesn't need ESR266 and the downpipe does.) many thanks for the responses, Richard

Umm - so some more searching suggests I might be missing ESR266, part 3 in the attached picture, as well as some bolts that connect the exhaust to ESR266 and ESR266 to the engine. Any help very much appreciated.

So my exhaust coupling with the Defender 200TDi engine has come apart, even though the bolt that cinches it up is tighter than a you know what! On further investigation it transpires that the down pipe should be bolted to the engine to help support the weight - it isn't. I have found a few pictures that seem to show that there should be a threaded hole in the engine block that the exhaust is bolted to. (The down pipe has a cross bar on it with two holes that have noting in them and look like they should.) So I can probably grub around under the grime to find the bolt holes, ( I'm hoping they are there! ) but would anyone know what bolts should go in there? I don't want to put ones in that are 'just' wrong and fubar the threads and the holes in the engine block. ( It's now dark and very wet so I'm not doing it this evening. ) If anyone has a picture ( it would need to be either engine out or wing off ) that shows the exact location of the holes, as well as can tell me the specification of the bolts, I would be very grateful. Many thanks, Richard

Thanks for the pictures Peaklander - yours was in a worse state than mine I think. So parts are ordered and once here I'll paint 'em up, remove the old bits, paint up the chassis and then 'pop in' the replacements. In the mean time I have a new heated rear window to fit along with some security film which I am hoping will stop the heater matrix getting broken by all the camping kit we pile up in the back. So that will be another new skill to add to my repertoire. :-)

Just one more question ( I think! ). Can I ask why you have gone for the second link version? I can't recall if the upstand originally extends back under the seats. From my recollections of looking last night the original is more like the first link? Happy to be wrong and will be getting underneath tonight with the scraper to have a really good proddle. cheers, Rich T

Thanks for the links Ralph much appreciated. So just been out to have a look and my 'upstand' is a mix of rivet, spot weld and bolts to the rear tub floor. The end caps and seat belt mounts look OK after a good scraping and poke. So... I'm thinking my best option will be to remove middle row seats and floor panel drill out the rivets and spot welds undo the bolts remove the corroded part paint/treat accessible chassis parts fit new upstand and rivet / bolt into place ( replacing old spot welds with new rivets) Does that sound about right? ( I would be going for the first of your links Ralph rather than cutting back into the rear tub / boot floor. ) cheers, Rich T

So I appear to have found some electrolytic corrosion on the middle row seat box on my 89/90 110. |The drivers side is much worse than the passenger. There are holes also appearing elsewhere, for example close to the middle of the vehicle and between the seat mount and the driver side middle row door. https://1drv.ms/f/s!AgfNx38wUoCdjvI7iAXTpRH_G0Cz8A What are my options? Can I just rivet new plates in place or is it a welding job? Cheers, Rich T

Thanks western much appreciated. As I have a tube of Tiger Seal I'll go with that.

I am about to replace the heated rear windscreen in my 1989 / 90 110 with a replacement heated rear windscreen. Having had a look on the parts list and the door itself am I right in thinking there is no actual seal on these but a thin bead of sealant between the glass and the frame? Would black tiger seal will do the job to replace the old seal? I must admit I'm not looking forward to trying to coax the old seal out. I suspect it might be quite stubborn - however I will try with some fresh fish and see if the seal goes for that! ;-)

Thanks Neil, I'll give the second relay you link to a go I think. Looking at the first I struggle to see how that would work as it only has three pins? regards, Richard

The dashboard trailer light, green square with a picture of a trailer, does not energise. I understand that it is supposed to come one once per indicator activation without a trailer and every indicator flash with a trailer attached. ​The bulb is good. What causes this to activate? Is it controlled by the relay? How would I tell if I have the correct relay? It should be noted that the indicators do work as expected otherwise. This is on a 1989 110. Many thanks in advance. Rich T

Hello, I was wondering if anyone had to had the dimensions, internal and external, of the heating ducts and grommets that link the heating duct to the windscreen demisters on a 1989 110 please? Part numbers MTC6382 and MRC7281 respectivley. ( http://www.allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=760899&SPRACHE=EN#4 ) After I replaced my bulkhead I noted these needed replacing but, at the time, I just needed to get back on the road so did not replace them. If no one has the dimensions to hand no worries I'll dismantle the dash ( again ) and measure them myself at some point. The plan is to replace the cracked ducting and place short rigid pipes inside the bottom of the ducts to better link to the heater duct and also install a constrictor on the passenger side to direct more airflow to the driver side for faster demisting. At the moment the ducts spew air out and what, little amount, makes it to the demisters could be described as pitiful at best. many thanks Rich T

Thanks Ralph.