fearofweapons

HI, anyone heard of / used whiterose4x4 just North of Sheffield? I think it is between them or Alpine Restorations for the work. cheers, Richard

All many thanks for the replies and information - I agree if you ask two people you get, at least, three different opinions on chassis. As I will be getting someone else to do mine ( time and space constraints ) I will probably go with what ever they recommend / are most familiar with. But always good to get a sanity check. 😉

Hello, I know this is asked on a regular basis and I have searched through and read the threads discussing which chassis are best; Richards, Marshlands, Shielder and the new kid on the block Maer. There seem to be a few threads around Shielder chassis and build quality but very few on Maer - not surprising if they are the new kids. Has any one here fitted a Maer and have stories they would be willing to pass on? Many thanks Richard

Thanks guys. @David Sparkes - the photo is pretty much my setup - although, as intimated above, my relay is in the upper of the two holes in that bracket. Also interesting to see that the handbrake gaiter is mounted that way on - the one we have points into the cab. @Snagger - once I get the relay off and check the state of that and the hole I'll know just how much spending of money / welding and filing I need to do! 😉 many thanks all for your insights and assistance. Richard

All many thanks for the replies and the options on fitting the bar or changing to a cable operated configuration. I will, when work/weather/other commitments allow, get back under and take a look at 577137 to see if the flats are still there or have been worn away over the years by it not being done up correctly. Hopefully it's just a question of realigning everything and making sure the flats fit into the slot and when tightened up they stay there! 🙂 If not I'm hoping it's just a question of a new shaft ( and maybe bush 218386) to get things working properly again. I did notice there are two holes in the mounting bracket. The relay lever is currently situated in the upper hole. Should ( could ) it be in the lower one? regards, Richard

Hi, the hand brake on the 1974 88" SIII is very sloppy. While this is true of all the linkages ( due to wear ) the majority of slop would appear to come from the relay lever. It is loose in the chassis mounting bracket allowing it to flex and move when the lever is pulled; resulting in very little movement of the actuator in the handbrake drum itself (regardless of the adjustment at the drum) I have tightened it up as much as possible, but it would appear it there is still a good 2-3mm of play between the face of the shaft and the mounting bracket. Looking at the diagram below I appear to have at least two extra 3299s and a raft of assorted washers between the nut and the mounting plate. Also when tightening the nut then 577137, the shaft, rotates - should it? I would expect this to be locked (but how?) and 238180 to rotate on the shaft? Apart from replacing the whole lot ( wow that's expensive!) any other suggestions? cheers, Rich

Here's an interesting thing. Blew a fuse the other day while fettling some electrics on the 110. Distinctly heard it go 'pop'. But when I checked I still had 12v output. So I carried on sorting out, took the car for a drive only to find the circuit would only operate intermittentley. So went back home and checked through everything. That's when I found that although the fuse had blown it had failed in such a way that it reconnected. Driving along caused the circuit to jiggle open and then closed again. You can see in the photo a slight blackening of the fuse and that the wire has 'slumped'. It's a funny old world!

Thanks everyone for your input. I have ordered some Arbomast. If that does not work I'll get some of the DumDum substitute. regards, Richard

Thanks for the suggestions guys, Re Sikaflex - any particular one? There are so many numbers! e.g. Adhesive Sealants - Sikaflex?-255 FC Primerless Windscreen Glazing Adhesive 300ml Black | Sealants Online For Arbomast - I found this? ARBO Arbomast Autograde Black 380ml - Sealants & Tools (sealantsandtools.co.uk) Is this correct? thanks, Richard

Hello! I'm looking for recommendations for windscreen sealent. Choices seem to range from 3M at nearly £17 per tube to ones at about £5. I've been told not to use tiger seal as it sets hard, windscreen sealent stays flexible. Many thanks Richard

Many thanks all for the suggestions - sounds like I need to get into the guys of it a little. Oh and sorry if I was not clear - it is the main gear stick not one of the smaller red / yellow selectors. Cheers, Richard

It's not my knob it's my shaft! Hello! Out in the SIII yesterday enjoying the sunshine and noticed that there is a very annoying rattle coming from the gear stick/gear box. If I hold the knob there is no change. If I lightly grasp the stick itself there is some reduction of the rattle. If I firmly pull the stick against one of the gates the rattle goes away. i.e. if I am in 4th and I pull the stick to the right no more rattle - however I can't drive with one hand on the gear stick the whole time. Any ideas what is likely to be causing the rattle and, more importantly, how I might permanently fix it? many thanks, Richard

Hi - apart from here and ebay has anyone got alternate contact details for @PaulMc please? regards, Richard.

Thanks gents. @western- I have pinged @PaulMc to see if he still has the plugs. I have ordered up LR078424 from my local independent LR garage. LR078424, as you point out in your thread, is the direct replacement for AMR3676 and seems a little cheaper than AMR3676 🙂 many thanks, Richard

Thanks - I have found the thread so will have a read - at first glance looks like its the connectors that are the significant difference.

Hello, I need to replace the rear wiper assy on my '89 / '90 110. I have been quoted over £300 😲 Newer, '94 onwards, assemblies are sub £100; e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-NEW-REAR-WIPER-MOTOR-ARM-BLADE-KIT-1994-2016-LR078424/293964405904?hash=item4471a4dc90:g:EYMAAOSwA8pgCC~~ Whats the difference? If its just the electrical connector I can sort that. regards, Richard

Many thanks Western

Hi, Would anyone know the tappet gap on a 2.5 petrol and a 200tdi please? Thanks

I am facing a similar dilemma. ( Sorry to hi jack the thread!) I have fitted new Series door seals. However, many of the holes in the door frame have become enlarged over the years so the pop rivets don't fit. Or where the hole is small when I try and fit the rivet, I cannot keep a constant pressure and so the rivet pulls through and dose not clamp to the frame. ☹️ I did wander about using something like small fir trees https://www.alplas.com/display-construction/rivets/fir-tree-fastener.html plastic ratchet rivets https://www.alplas.com/display-construction/rivets/small-snap-rivet.html or even a brass binding screw - https://www.alplas.com/display-construction/rivets/binding-screw-brass.html I know some are plastic and will probably become brittle after a few years but just trying to think outside the box a bit.

Many thanks Simon.

Hi, investigating the the other day why some of my warning lights no longer warn ( e.g. indicator, trailer, low fuel etc. ) I found the bulbs were broken. These are the ones on the warning lights cluster insert in a 1989 110 dashboard and contain the battery charging, oil, diff lock engaged, the list above plus others. ) Having a hunt around I think the bulb type is a 286 - but also seen reference to 297 and other numbers bandied around. Can any of the learned members of this forum give me the definitive answer please? If 286s then either of the following links should satisfy my needs? ( In that department at least! 😉 ) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dashboard-Instrument-Panel-Holder-B8-5D/dp/B07HPCWBJQ/ref=pd_lpo_263_t_0/260-0379418-9419645?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07HPCWBJQ&pd_rd_r=7a5c52ea-8f31-42b4-9dd5-d0222efc8c14&pd_rd_w=EFA6b&pd_rd_wg=dbihH&pf_rd_p=7b8e3b03-1439-4489-abd4-4a138cf4eca6&pf_rd_r=E2VKZJN4Y6E98E61V2R9&psc=1&refRID=E2VKZJN4Y6E98E61V2R9 https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/164398732938?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-153316-527457-8&mkcid=2&itemid=164398732938&targetid=4584894773047612&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=398226962&mkgroupid=1300722490880837&rlsatarget=pla-4584894773047612&abcId=2145997&merchantid=87779&msclkid=566497b48de11af0c041c838e88aba63 https://www.amazon.co.uk/286-Capless-Dashboard-Bulbs-1-2w/dp/B002BB53IU Many thanks Rich T

@snagger - I have an old rear door skin so will cut a strip out of that and fold over. I might take the opportunity to make one for my 110 as well where that has rotted through. cheers, Rich T

Thats great many thanks - I'll need to order up both then.

Hello! Looking in the parts manual it is not clear to me the different locations for the rear tub stays referenced by the part numbers; 33251 and 330303 and 330304. 332521 looks like it bolts to the wheel! (Which can't be right - it wouldn't last very long if it were!). While 330303 and 330304 seem just as vague in location. It would probably be easier if I had the SIII 1974 88in in front of me to go and peer and poke at - but not necessarily! Any help much appreciated.

For many years, since I replaced my bulk head, my airflow has been asthmatic as an elderley ant! At the start of lock down I stripped the dash off and added a couple of small PC fans just below the demister ducts to turbo boost flow upwards. See the photos - the white padding is some hydrophobic insulation and sound absorbing material. I also added some seals to the lower vent flaps (bits of neoprene but might rip them off and replace with sponge draft excluder instead). I cut the seal for the passenger lower outlet to restrict air flow so that more is directed to the driver's side. I put it all back together and the difference is significant. I now get a good strong blow to the demisters, on both sides.