jericho

After crashing into a stone wall I need to buy some paint for a new wing panel. The vehicle is a 300 tdi 90 hard top probably first registered in 1997. It is that standard landrover blue colour (non-metalic) - if it were a series 3 it would be called 'Marine Blue'. I have no vin number,chassis number,or registration. Can anyone give me a name or paint code? Sorry to be so elusive. Thanks Jerry.

The 300 has a much better exhaust downpipe position - no need for one of those ugly conversion downpipes. Is a 200 more durable? Cost? I think on a like for like basis,a 300 would be cheaper,but nothing much in it. The truth is,fit either one,but fit the best quality engine you can find,there is so little to choose between them - a low milage disco used for the school runis what you want.

My loom has glass fuses not blades - I may have been unclear about that. There is so much in the right place,that I am sure it was made for a defender - heater motor,wiper motor,stop switch,column switches (except main light switch),dash warning light panel ect. But the colours are only roughly as they should be. There are lots of minor differences from the diagrams e.g. the indicators should be left front and rear one colour,and right front and rear another colour,but this loom is both front one colour,and both rear another. I am wondering if this is not an origional equipment part,but an after-market copy,and the manufacturer has been free and easy with the colours.Is there any other reason why the colour coding would vary from standard?

Thanks everyone,I already have the above military diagram and the British standard wiring colours- my loom does not match either.Similar,but not close enough for me to understand it. Many people have said that the connections are there on a defender military loom to plug in the civilian light switch - they are not present on mine,so I don't know what I have bought. It may end up going in the bin,but I am not keen to fit a secondhand loom that I don't know the quality of,and a new one from Autosparks is nearly £300!

No,I'm affraid not.Thanks anyway.That looks similar to the one sent with the loom i.e a standard defender diagram. My loom has no connection for the column mounted main light switch,but does have a connection for what looks like a military rotary light switch. Can anyone confirm what this is? Where would I buy a military light switch?I could always fit the loom intact.

First off,let me say that I know nothing about vehicle wiring. I bought a new (as in un-used) military Defender bulkhead loom from e-bay to rewire my off-roader(not military). It came with a diagram and key photocopied from a document inscribed - Army Equipment support publication - main circuit diagram (commercial) Jan 91 (Amdt 2) Unfortunately,the loom does not match the diagram. The diagram looks like a fairly standard civilian defender layout with the later 16 way blade type fuse holder. My loom has no brown/blue/red connector for the main lighting switch,but rather,what looks a bit like a connection for the lucas 6 position military light switch.However,I have a military circuit diagram from this forum,and the colours do not match. There are hardly any parts of the loom where the colours do match the correct defender military diagram. I have taken the loom tape off to try and follow wires,and pluged a defender column switch set in where it looks like it should go,but I still cant make sense of it all - especially the lighting side of it. The connector to a light control has 9 points,but the diagram shows 8. The colours are UY NP UK N RB UB RY NY R, but the diagram shows R R U NW GP N RN GP Without a reliable colour coding and diagram I do not have the ability to make sense of all this. There are 10 relays in the loom,4 or 5 of which seam to be involved in the lighting. My origional plan was to remove the wiring to/from the military lighting switch and replace it with wiring for a civilian main lighting switch (brown/blue/red) - and to remove all the surplus wiring to leave me with a very basic defender loom; but after maybe 8 or 10 hours of scratching my head,I am starting to loose heart. If anyone can help,please shout out. Is this definitely a defender loom?Why cant I find the right diagram?Why are so many colours wrong? Yours despondently, Jerry.

Makita are good midrange grinders. The more powerful (and more expensive) Hitachi ones the best I've use - I have a very good 1900w 41/2" grinder with a 9" type trigger switch on it which is a bit safer then the normal push-the-switch-and -it-stays-on type.

Still no luck after phoning several more suppliers. It seams that k section belts are for automotive applications rather that industrial,so the likelyhood of finding one to suit is small. Looks like I will have to make one myself by turning down a taperlock pulley,and cutting the centre out of one of the 300tdi pulleys.

I am trying to find a poly-v pulley to mount on a 20mm parallel keyed shaft. Ive done a google,and phoned a few local companies,but so far no luck;plenty of v-belt pulley suppliers,but not so many poly-v. Pulley type required - PK7 at around 150mm diameter.That is the same profile as the pulleys on a 300tdi. The common way to mount pulleys to a keyed shaft appears to be taper-lock bushes,so what I need is - a 150mm PK7 taper-lock pulley. Any suggestions?

Thanks for that. Why use any of the origional pipe? I think most shops would be reluctant to swage onto used pipe,unless you know them well.

I have moved the radiator sideways and backwards in my 300 tdi off-roader,now the pipes to the oil cooler in the radiator won't connect up. Has anyone had custom pipes made? What are the fittings/thread sizes at the filter housing end,and at the radiator end? Who can you recommend to make hoses for me? I could take all the bits to a hydraulics shop,but I seldom finish work before they close,so if I could order it over the phone,so much the better. Thanks, Jerry.

OOPS

Hello Les,I hope I read your photos correctly - The swivel pin should not be vertical,but the bottom tilted backward at 3 degrees to give a castor effect.If you extend the line through the swivel pin to the ground,it should meet the ground behind the point where a vertical line through the centre of the hub meets the ground. It looks to me like you have turned it the wrong way to line up the holes,giving negative castor (if that is a term) and shocking steering. If you turned it one hole back the opposite way,you would have more than standard castor,but nothing terrible. I may have just mis-understood the photos.

None at all.its louder,but not antisocial.

Zero vibration,zero buckling - I just thought it looked like it would be a better job.

Mid box replacement pipe from Devon 4x4 (a Bearmach part) and rear pipe from Famous Four. I had to tweak the hangers a bit to fit it.

After trying,and failing,to remove enough with it attached to the vehicle,I did the sensible thing and put a jack under the sump and took it off.I should have welded a plate over the bottom,but I wanted to be sure I had removed enough,then never got round to it.As it turned out,I had removed plenty.

Here it is

Ok,the above tail pipe is what I would like to use,but it doesn't fit with my older mid section (upto TA999221). The join between the tail/mid sections is further towards the front of the vehicle on the later models (TA999222 on). So can I simply buy the later mid silencer (TA999222 on) to go with it? Will this work with my front/down pipe? I know that there are Cat and non-Cat front pipes,but are all 300 90 front sections otherwise identical?

Good point. Measurement from ground to centre of each hub - 365mm.

I took the opportunity before the rain comes - 300 90 hardtop utility 1996/97 unmolested factory standard. 1220 1285 1210 1275 85mm gap on bothsides of front axle,100mm gap on rear axle. The bump gaps tricky to measure accurately,but correct +/- 2mm. The road is not dead level - the slight camber tips the truck to the drivers side. I measured to the centre of the capping as requested,rather than the top of it,which would have been easier. From the body measurements and the camber of the road,I expected to see a 10mm difference in the bump gaps,but there was little or nothing discernable.

Oooh that looks perfect. Will be on the phone Tuesday. This forum can be remarkably helpful sometimes.

Wow,didn't know that.I wonder will those parts bolt up to an older 300 down pipe?Wil have to look into it. Thanks.

I need to replace the middle section of my 300 90 exhaust - it is rusted right through behind the middle box so I have an unconnected front exhaust and rear exhaust! I think I will buy a SS straight through middle section as sold by most of the after market traders - no problem. But while I am at it I would like to replace the dreadful looking rear section - the horrible u-turn type silencer - with something better. Does anyone make an off-the-shelf 300 90 straight through rear section?Or a performance rear silencer? Devon 4x4 sell a td5 SS straight through rear section,which would be great except that it has a triangular 3 bolt joining flange rather that the flared type joint used on the 300s. My 90 is used 6 days a week for work,so I can't find time to take it to a custom exhaust shop. Minor fabrication or modification to an off the shelf product would be ok,but it would have to be achievable in an evening. Any suggestions? Thanks, Jerry.

Thankyou for your helpful advice,but I wrote the post after searching the topic. I found Niges write-up of fitting NOR wings,and home made wing bars,but not a direct comparison of two items.