jericho

Rugby shirts look good embroidered, t-shirts don't. Printed t-shirts please.

Thanks for the reminder.Donation sent.Happy New Year!

AWDC Midland Off Road Club Midwest off Road Club They all run trials and punch hunt/challenge type events in Gloucestershire. Thera is also the Cheltenham and Cotswold Landrover Owners Club,but they won't like the truetrac,and are a little too fussy about origionality for me.

No gasket IIRC - The rubber diaphram makes a seal.

The star wheel sets the diaphram spring pre-load. Winding it down (turning clockwise)reduces the pre-load,so the diaphram will move more for a given boost level.

Can't answer your question about what angle.But - It certainly sounds like a prop shaft.Is it phased as it should be? Diff pinion bearings? Tranfer box output flange bearings?

Tidy fitting there! I used camping roll mat on my truck cab,and a roll of 1/4" foam from a chandlers on my van top. Both worked very well - zero condensation.

Yes,Superwinch make them for lt230.Not that common second hand,and very expensive new - they have a simple output flange with bolt holes.Best bet would be finding one from an ex-utilities landrover dealer,many were used to drive generators. If you want a new one and can't get any sense out of Superwinch,try phoning Rotec (01823 348900) and ask to speak to Richard. They fit out all the south west utilities landrovers for Superwinch.

The most important difference between group 2 and group 3 pumps is that they have different mounting flanges/bolt patterns. Most pto drives are for group 2 pumps (maxidrive made the only landrover group 3 pto that I have seen).

Allan Byrne at one time supplied a 33cc parker pump with his type R set-up,but more recently said he couldn't source them anymore. 26cc is a bit small,definitely small for a pto drive where you may be running the pump at less than engine revs. You may as well fit the biggest you can find,but anything over 30cc in a group 2 pump seams to be very expensive.I found a supplier with 39cc group 2 pumps but they were £300! There is a chap on ebay regularly selling cheap no-name pumps;his name is something like 'laminaflow'.I bought a new 30cc pump for less than £70 delivered. My 2p worth is - if its for competition use,don't bother with any group 2 pump on a pto. Make a group 3 fit the pto - 60cc or above.And even then,I found a pto drive a pain to use:in and out of neutral on the transfer box. P.S. the M&S motor supplied with the type R is a copy of the Danfoss EPRM motor. Harrier Hydraulics sell another copy of the 100 cc Danfoss motor with 750 rpm.max, and 2832 in.lb. max torque,so slightly better than the M&S if the above figures are correct.

Type S - I know that Oldspot has had a message from you re the coupling - I was round his house last night - he is just a little 'relaxed' about responding to enquiries. I would like to fit a clutch,but it looks like I am left with 2 options- chaindrive with clutch,or direct drive without.There is an outside chance that i could queeze in a prop with clutch and pump. What size motor are you going with?I thought I might try an 80cc motor - speed is good! My 30cc pump was running above engine rpm,so was equivalent to a 35cc direct driven pump,and the low gear speed was very good.

Some rough figues give 140 lb of pre-load!The other components run by the serpentine belt are already showing signs of bearing failure. Maybe a tripple v-belt would do it,but I am losing all faith in belts.

Yes,I had the same idea.Haven't had time to measure up yet.

Correct.Not up to the job of a 30cc pump and 100cc motor driving a milemarker - too much slip. I am going to have another look at direct crank drive,but I am very limited for space - could possibly squeeze it in if I don't use a clutch,so the pump would run permanently.

A series 2 dash under construction.

I am planning a timing belt (synchronous belt) drive for a hydraulic pump on my landrover,and know nothing about such things. There seams to be many industry standard tooth profiles and pitches. Can anyone tell me the tooth profile and pitch used on tdi engines?It would be handy if I could use the same belt type and/or pulleys as on my 300 tdi. Does anyone on here have a timing belt driven pump? Any advice would be welcome before I waste a load of money having pulleys made.

Search for bills pics,he did a great job. I did not have bolts through the chassis.6mm plate with 4 nuts welded to the back - the plate is taller than the chassis rail,extending 30mm above the top line of the chassis.the two upper bolts/nuts sit above the chassis rail.the two lower nuts required two corresponding holes cut in the side of the chassis rail.the plate was then welded on the side of the chassis rail round all four of its sides. two reinforcing gussets were welded across the top of the rail,and a square plate on the bottom,butted up to the side plate.do not underestimate the forces applied by the steering box. It was a very easy conversion - the box being mounted within an hour or two.A new custom drag link was needed IIRC. It is so easy that I am supprised more people have not done it.A less bulky box than the rover 6 bolt would be an improvement. To give credit where it is due,I took my inspiration from Terry Ann Wakeman's series PAS conversion - look up her web site if you haven't seen it - lots of good ideas and pictures.http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/PowerSteering.htm edit- you posted while I was typing - you were already thinking along the same lines.

35% increase in max torque at 400 rpm less is a good power upgrade,but Allisport or Allards will do you a variable geometry turbo for less money. Edit to add - the m&d ebay add does include a new/exchange upgraded fuel pump??? and an intercooler.

There are two pulley sizes for the 300 tdi,and two different belt lengths listed in the Gates catalogue to match. You want the shorter belt,but IIRC there is only about 25mm difference in the two belt lengths,so you may well get away with running the longer one.

Thanks for the tip.Just ordered one from Mr.Bracegirdle .Seams to be a very helpful man.

M20 on the 300,so I would think 200 is the same.

My opinions- With hydraulic winches,don't go down the pto drive route.Wheel speed and winch speed are way out of sync. Also,switching rapidly between neutral and drive on an old lt230 can be very uncertain - with a winchman stood infront of the vehicle you need to be sure it is not in drive.I found the experience unacceptable in a competition situation. I think you will find it almost impossible to find room for a pump in front of the crank unless you cut out the front cross member and move the radiator panel forwards - in which case there is no point using the series front end. What you are left with is a pump mounted on the engine and driven by a belt or chain.On a 300 this is easy to do by mounting the pump in the aircon position - never looked that close at a v8.The pump can run at engine speed (or faster)and drive to the pump is independant of drive to the wheels via the main gearbox. Rear suspension on a series (long or short WB)is very acceptable just by using parabolics,and longer travel shocks (with a bit of bodywork trimming).But the front suspension is rubbish,both in terms of flex,and the problems of axle tramp.It may be possible to fix these problems in a satisfactory way,but it was these issues that lead me to abandon front leaf spring suspension on my series. Do you really have to keep the leaves?How about coils on the front and leaves on the rear? Good luck with the project.IIa s are the best looking LRs going.give us plenty of photos. All the best.Jerry. .

I ran a peugeot/citroen electric pump on my tdi series.Still have the pump on the shelf. Un able to post a link, but look in 'Members Vehicles forum',half way down page 1 'My 2a tdi'.

Its not a defender,but - I went for devon style tapered bumper.I thought about a high mount bumper,but it didn't look right on a classic vehicle.There is a strong trend at the moment for ugly competition vehicles - in this case I chose style over function.

For small intricate parts - Tricholoethane.