jericho

Well how about that! Thank you very much.I feel a little silly,but these coil sprung vehicles are a new thing for me.

Panhard bushes are worn,so ordered new bushes and bolts from paddocks.Got the Metalastic ones rather than the cheapies. However,the new bolts rattle in the bushes.They seam more slack than I think they should be - but what do I know? The bolts measure 13.7mm , the bushes measure 14.3mm inside - thats 0.5mm slack. When you take the two bushes into account thats 1mm of play without considering the play in the axle/chassis brackets. The movement in my worn panhard is only about 1.5mm,but it is enough to make a nasty 'Clunk'. I went to the local LR parts supplier and bought another two bolts - they measure 13.6mm! So,is this amount of slack acceptible?

Tuko,the part no. I gave you was for a filter which is shorter and smaller diameter - But it has the right thread and sealing ring.It was just what I had in stock at the time to do the job. There should be pleanty of filters that will fit the bill.If you have real problems I can send you some Fram filters. Jerry.

My advice is forget about the immobiliser issue for a moment. You need a multi meter,or at least a test lamp to find your faults. For the starter - first check that the wire from the ignition is supplying 12v then check that the solenoid is working - so the large connection from solenoid to motor goes live when ignition is turned. If the starter still does nothing,check that the starter is earthed adequately. If still nothing,the you have a defective starter - nothing to do with immobiliser. Sounds like you have solved the indicator problem. Is this a defender loom (we are in the defender section)? if so,the a diagram will tell you what your stray wires are.

Faulty voltage stabilizer in the temp gauge circuit.

Don't know what engine/vehicle this is,but most starter solenoids have no negative terminals. There is a switched live in from the ignition switch/starter button, a live feed in from the battery, and a live out to the starter motor. Earthing of the solenoid and motor is through their casings to the engind block,or flywheel housing. Perhaps I have mis-understood?

I am going again.Don't have a team this year,but will no doubt have a great time with whoever we are thrown in with. Staying at the Hi B.Must get the truck finished!

No,a piece of pish - honest!

There isn't room to fit the rad and intercooler next to the steering relay/pas box,so shorten the frame to take just the rad.Drill two holes in the crossmember to take the grommits,and drop the frame in place. If you are using the oil cooler pipes you may be able to re-attach them with a little re-shaping of the steel pipes - I got new ones made at the local hydraulics shop.They are m20 threads,not 1/2" bsp. If you have moved the front cross member forwards,make two brackets to sit the rad on.

I'm not so sure of the need for a dual valve.I can see the need to stop the winch line suddenly unwinding if a hose should burst.But i find it harder to imagine a case where a burst hose would cause the winch to wind in in a dagerous manner. Personally I would not bother fitting a check valve of any sort to my hydraulic winch system if it were just to protect against burst hoses.I use synthetic winch line,and I have no doubt that the line will snap a hundred times for each time a hose bursts. But I do have an overcentre valve fitted to my Milemarker for a slightly different reason. Without it,if I winch the vehicle up a bank,and stop with the load still on the winch,there is pressure stored in the pipes from the spool valve to the winch motor.If I then go to lower the vehicle on the winch,it will drop uncontrolably until the pressure in the lines has equalised.Typically it will fall backwards two or three feet - an unpleasant experience. My overcentre valve bolts directly to the winch motor - no pipes joining them.1/2" bsp ports comming out of the valve.They are available for any Danfoss motor,or copy of a danfoss motor (which is what type Rs are).I bought mine from Harrier Fluid Power,or what ever their name is.I could take photos if needed. Best to decide what you need,then order it.Good advice on the confusing world of check valves is hard to find,even amoungst suppliers. Excellent link there Errol!

Thanks for all the helpful advice. I have found the problem. I have just rewired the vehicle,and took a supply for the fuel solenoid from the switched live on the ignition. It is an old lucas switch with only three positions OFF , RUN , STARTER. The switched live terminal goes dead when the key is turned to the starter position. The engine starts fine with a live straight from the battery. Silly me! All I have to do now is find a supply that is live in both run and start positions.I will check all the terminals on the switch tomorrow. Thanks again, Jerry.

Tried to start the 300 tdi today for the first time in 9 months - nothing doing,just spins over. We have a good fuel supply to the injector pump,but nothing at the injectors. The stop solenoid is the first thing to check,I suppose.It does click when I turn the key,but could it still be faulty? I have never removed one - what am I going to find inside. My engine is right back against the bulkhead,so I can't get a spanner on the solenoid.Before I cut a spanner in half,can anyone confirm the size of the hex? It looks to be 24 or 25 mm. I have tried the search function - and it produced nothing relevant. Thanks, Jerry.

I don't think you need to ask. Best case and worst case senarios are so easy to imagine. Lots of love, Jerry.

Thanks.We have yet to see how the belt will perform in action.

Here is one I started yesterday on a 300 tdi. In the picture is a manual dog clutch - the pump is yet to be bolted to the back of it -

OK, i managed to squeeze in the rubbishy plastic one -

The standard plastic header tank for a tdi (I have a 300 engine) will not fit in the engine bay over the inner wing,so I thought of fitting the old style copper tank.The vehicle is non standard. However,the tdi one has two hose attachment points out of the bottom(one big,one small) and the copper tank has a big one out of the bottom and a small one back in at the top. Does it matter if small/return pipe enters the tank above or below the water level?

Those are for a hard top.

I want to fit inertia real seat belts to my series 2a truck cab. How does the high up shoulder fixing point attach to the truck cab? Is there a bracket available?

After three trips to the hospital in one week,I bought these Uvex Uvex ultrasonic Never fog,but i haven't tried them in the rain.

That could explain it.Thanks.

I have bought a new steering link to join the column to the box,but it appears to be about 3/4" too short. Is there more than one type for defenders?I thought they were all the same. The part I bought is NTC 8478. Thanks, Jerry.

To fit a 4 bolt flange in place of a 300 tdi 3 bolt flange you need the longer of the two 4 bolt flanges available,or the shorter one with a spacer (which does have a LR number,but I don't recall it).

Thank you Mr.Western - always quick with a reply. How come your name doesn't show on the 'board statistics' section?