sotal

what did you do to remedy the spider, did you replace it with a bypass plug or did you solder up the old one?

The 10A selection looks right, have you moved the red wire to the 10A input terminal on the multimeter? As suggested above connect the multimeter up and switch on the lights you will see the figure rise on the screen. If it doesn't you're not using it correctly. If it does then you are using it correctly so switch off the lights then see what number it goes to, it should go down to zero. If it does go down to zero try leaving it connected and do things you would normally do, ie lock the car set the alarm etc and see if it starts to drain - could be a faulty alarm backup battery which is trying to charge constantly. Also make sure you are not just putting the wires across the battery - to test for amps you must put it inline, so you must disconnect the positive lead from the battery, then connect the black multimeter lead to the battery and the red multimeter lead to the wire which is normally connected to the battery

Has anyone actually tried removing the SRS ECU and leaving it off for a few hours? or does that itself generate a fault code? is the car driveable without the SRS ECU plugged in?

in that case it was due 5 months ago on the 5 year limit. Any idea on the other questions?

Just checking if I need to get my cam belt done. The car had full service history up to 86,000 miles when service 17 was done in Feb 2004 The disco has now done 104,000 miles and obviously it's 3 and a half years since the last recorded service. Is it something like every 72,000 miles or 5 years? it had a service at 73000 miles but that was may 2002 so that would breach the 5 years. How difficult is the cam belt to do on these? Is it a possible DIY job or is it a job for a local independent? How long should it take? Does much have to come off? What parts do you need (any gaskets etc) Cheers oh final question is the engine an interference engine or not?

OK I know the standard answer is "it must be plugged into testbook" but.... What do people know about it??? I currently have the light on all the time, sometimes the last "S" Flashes sometimes it's all on constant. Does that have any significance? Does anyone know where the fault is stored? Is it in the SRS ECU or the main ECU. Anyone know what type of memory the fault codes are stored in - is it volatile or not? What happens if you remove the SRS Fuse (looks to have a yellow protector over it) - Does the light still flash? My thoughts behind all this was that back in 95 (when mine was made) they mostly used memory which would erase if left for a while - so is there any chance of being able to remove power to the ECU which stores the code and see if it forgets the fault code? Failing that what sort of money am I looking at to have my disco plugged into Testbook?

I didn't have quite the same problem, my pedal felt fine but I just found the brakes to be awful, I had fitted a dual line system and a 90 brake servo to try and help improve things but they always felt terrible (compared to other lr's not comparing to cars) I ended up buying an old peugeot vacuum pump and making up a bracket to hold it on the block (where the lifting eye bolts on) and connecting the vaccum pipe up to that, this had the advantage of ditching the butterfly valve which also had the advantage of stopping it from smoking as much. The brakes are now spot on, and comparable to a normal car. The only bit that's probably relevant to you here though is people told me to stop looking at the vacuum as the series 2's where fine without any vacuum at all, and they kept telling me that it would just be my drums out of adjustment or that they needed bleeding more, but I had checked, double checked and triple checked all adjustments (fitted new snail cams, new shoes, and just about everything else) and made sure it was all bled correctly. As soon as the vacuum pump was fitted it was all solved. The pump cost me about £20 from ebay, the bracket was made out of scraps and I had to buy a new belt for about 3 quid. All worth it!

Not sure what the best way to test is, but I think you can go to most quick fit type places with the battery and they'll put it on a machine and tell you if it's duff. I've got an optimiser charger which when you plug that onto the battery it will tell you after about 30 mins if it's not holding the charge properly. If it is the battery then you should be able to pick up a replacement for about £30-£40

If there is no drain but it's still going flat then take the battery off and leave it in the garage for a couple of days and see if it's flat then. Sounds to me like a duff battery though

damn, not quite perfect, just went home for dinner - started up fine at work, drove home parked up and switched it off 30 minutes later came to start it, went to glow plugs when the light went out turned it to go and the starter spun happily away but no fuel, did the same again with the same result, so went back to my old trick of going straight past the glow plugs (ie turned it off waited a few seconds then started it straight up) and it burst into life. Just can't figure out what's stopping the fuel - I presume it's got to be either something electrical going to the injection pump or an intermittent fault on the injection pump itself?

If you want to rule out the stop solenoid all together just take out the plunger and spring - mine is currently out, the engine still stops fine etc when you turn the key off.

Sounds like you need to get a multimeter on it and have a test to see what current is being drawn when it is off, and try and track down what is drawing the current. Could also be a duff battery

Well it fired up perfectly this morning - doing everything in the correct order (which it wouldn't before even when warm) So fingers crossed it's all sorted. Thanks for all the suggestions

probably best to bang it on ebay then, any idea of worth? Does it being 24v make it any better or worse? Other than the obvious fact that most vehicles are 12v?

Sorry I posted once - then it disappeared - very strange - then ran out of effort to type it again! Not entirely sure what it was, I did a few bits and bobs before trying again with a jump start from another vehicle and it cracked straight up perfectly - instant start. The only things I did between were, messing with the lift pump (fairly sure it was nothing to do with this) and taking off the two plugs which seem to go to the fuel injection pump (possibility) Interestingly though I have found out that the fuel cut off solenoid is a bit pointless on the EDC engine, I have taken out the spring and plunger but it still turns off with the key because the fuel injection pump loses power. I've left the plunger and spring out for the minute so it's got one less thing to go wrong. So I've narrowed it down to the pump itself stopping fuel, it was getting past the stop solenoid but not getting from the injection pump to the injectors, just not quite sure what it is, maybe it's down to the battery or maybe it's down to the wiring underneath the pump. My personal thoughts are that the battery is a bit weak as it seems to go flat very quickly. Since replacing the two dead glow plugs, it doesn't seem to be drawing as much current when the glow plugs are on and it seems to start perfectly when warm even when putting the glow plugs on, so I'm hoping that was part of the problem and now fixed will help to stop it flattening the battery as quick - maybe one of the dead glow plugs was causing a short when energized? The glow plug light illuminates every time now. So all afternoon it has started properly, and in the correct way (without having to switch it off after glow plugs have been on) So I've got my fingers crossed that it's now sorted but I'm hesitant as it could quite easily refuse to start in the morning

I've just been playing with my lift pump whilst trying to get the damn thing started and it seemed similar to how you describe, it just has no resistance, the previous owner said he had just replaced the lift pump and it does look brand new, but no matter how many times I have tried it never gets resistance. I took the pipe off the lift pump and gave it a try by hand and no fuel came out, I tried flicking the starter over and it poured out, I ended up putting it back together, and I tried to bleed the fuel filter up (which was empty) and for some reason priming by hand seemed to fill it and it came out of the bleed screw, but resistance was never felt. Does this sound like a duff lift pump too - even though it's only a couple of months old?? I notice my local stockist carries britpart lift pumps for about 12 quid or OEM lift pumps for about 26 quid - I guess it's worth going for the OEM one?

I got a Superwinch X6 winch as part of a deal a couple of years ago, I was swapping some parts and I had plans to put it on the front of my series 2A but I've never got round to it and I found it it's 24V, so I'd need to rig up a second battery. So it's taking up space in the garage, so I was going to put it on Ebay, what sort of price should I expect, it looks good but used and has the solenoid pack as well. and on a second note how good is it? Would it be good enough to pull a series 2A out which weighs approx 1400kg? Thanks

Sorted for the minute - need to do a bit of testing to make sure

Hi, I've had a series for a few years, but just got a disco a month ago - N reg 95 300tdi ES Auto. I'll try and answer your questions but just bear in mind I haven't been a disco owner long. 1) I think the favoured one for the DIY'er is the 300tdi (non EDC version) (make sure it's got a throttle cable) 2) facelift came with 300tdi I think, different bumper and a better back bumper and lights setup. Better dash 3) Not that much difference with 200/300, but then there is 2 versions of the 300, the standard and the EDC (electronic diesel control) also known as fly by wire - mine is the fly by wire and it seems like it's harder to fix - I think the EDC was only fitted to Autos from 95 onwards. 4) no idea on a pallet, but it's a good sqaure load space, I had a 5 foot long table in the other day and it just fitted 5) If you asked me before I got this, I would have said manual (only had mauals before) but now I would say auto, so much easier espicially with a big vehicle that you are not going to be racing about in. 6) They tilt then slide, I can just stand up through one, you'd have to be pretty slim to stand up comfortably and turn to shoot etc - I would have to say they don't open far enough. 7) Can't really think of any must haves, but I guess for me it had to have leather and had to have the two extra seats in the boot. 8) Parts are dirt cheap, but don't always go cheapest Britpart do a lot of cheap parts, some of which are great but a lot aren't worth fitting. From my experience with the series, if it has rubber on it will fail not long after fitting - or brake linings on shoes just seem to be made wrong, any thing else is usually fine though. Labour is expensive at LR Dealers but reasonable at independant LR garages. You should be able to DIY a lot though. 9) Yes sounds like you know enough 10) Miles away from me but a good idea to take someone if you can

I still can't get it to start, problem being no fuel at the injectors. I've sorted all the glow plugs and that in turn has made the glow plug light work correctly, so atleast when whatever else is sorted it should start better in the cold! I emptied the fuel filter out just to check that was ok, and it looked fine a couple of bits in it but not much, so I put that back together and bled the system until fuel came out of the bleed screw then tightened the screw. If I take off one of the injector pipes on top of the injectors no fuel seems to be coming through I occasionally get one drop. To rule out the stop solenoid once and for all I took it out and put it back without the spring and plunger but I still get no fuel. I've unplugged all the electrical connectors under the bonnet that I can see would be in anyway connected and I have cleaned them but still nothing, it turns over but no fuel. The only thing I can think off now is the distributor pump is duff? But they look expensive espically for the electrical one! What about the lift pump? It had a new lift pump not long before I had it, and I know how cheap they are. Reading the haynes manual I should be able to turn the ignition on to activate the stop solenoid (won't make much difference for me now!) then I should be able to prime it until firm resistance is felt - I'm not getting firm resistance it just keeps on going

Can't get the damn thing started at all now, will have a proper look in the morning - battery flat. Interesting to note though that I put a second battery on to jump it from and it still sounded slow, so I put the negative onto the engine instead and it spun loads faster, so the earth lead to the battery needs looking at. Also got two more glow plugs so I can atleast get that right, got the most expensive type so hopefully they'll last - some German make beginning with B. I'm fairly sure the cut off solenoid is operating, and have run a seperate wire to it with no improvement, but what's my best way to check - I was going to crack off one of the injector pipes to see if diesel comes out. I didn't really want to take the plunger out of the solenoid as I have no idea how to stall an automatic Any other ideas for tomorrow?

I'm fairly sure I've ruled out the stop solenoid but if the voltage is dropping it could be that, but a switch wouldn't help there as the voltage would still be low. I tried taking out a glow plug last night to see if they were even glowing, I went for the easiest one the first one, undid it all the way out, came to take it out and some idiot at LR had put the aircon pump in the way!! So I had to put it back in and give up. Are any of the glow plugs easy to take out? Also you mention disconnecting the ECU, will this mess up my remote key fob? Also if I do change the battery will that mess up my key fob - is there anything special I have to do, I've heard about entering Codes using the key in the door to stop the immobiliser???? I haven't got any codes!

It was freezing this morning, so the landrover refused to start, the battery quickly sounded like it was getting flat. I went in the other car instead, but just tried the disco again when I got back and it still wouldn't start. I'd parked in the wrong place so I couldn't jump start it, but I've got a spare battery for the series so I put the jump cables across to that and it started straight away. So that's got me thinking the battery is a bit under powered? I would put the series battery in but it looks to big for the hole. Does anyone know what the biggest battery is for a 300tdi, the one that is in looks a bit small, there's space for about another 2 inches in every direction. Or is there anyway of fitting the larger series battery?

When we did powder coating at school years ago, we had to heat the metal up first so that it was basicly glowing then the powder was blown over it and melted on contact with the hot metal. I would have thought that baking would be painting the enamel on then baking it after.