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Is this the right kind of spanner to undo the Viscous fan to allow me ot change the timing belt?: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...A:IT&ih=006

Well let me know if you want to sell any of the bits off, I'm just off to the wanted section to post for a aircon pipe - I didn't realise that so many people removed them!

I need one of the pipes if you are breaking it up! It's the pipe that runs along the drivers side wing (thin high pressure pipe) You should really go to an aircon place and they will suck out the gas from the system - just takes a few minutes. I noticed a complete system on ebay a little while ago and it didn't sell but the individual parts will sell, the air con compressor will definatley sell. Hope that helps and let me know if you want to sell the pipework! Cheers Matt

Thanks for the replies guys, I've not had any problems with the battery and it's not a "lazy" starter as such, it seems to have a consistant fault. (I've fixed the reason the battery went flat - and it was the flat battery causing the starter to be slow at the time - so that's all sorted) but here's a bit of an update: I think I've now given my disco enough testing and the results have been 100% consistant so I thought I'd see if anyone knows what the little problem I now have is caused by. The Land Rover is a 1995 300tdi Auto ES EDC. On cold mornings or when it's been left for quite a long time, then it starts exactly as I would expect it to. I put the key in turn it so the glow plug light comes on, wait till it goes out then start it up. Starts beautifully everytime. I can try without the glow plugs and it will start as long as it's not too cold but it will turn over lots of times and struggle before it fires up with a bit of smoke. If the Disco is warm, ie just had a journey pulled up outside the shop and popped in for a few minutes, then start it up again, then if I have the glow plug light on for more than a split second then it will refuse to start, it will turn over very well but it won't get any fuel. If I turn the key as quickly as possible it will start straight up. If I forget and put the glow plug light on and it fails to start (which it will do 100% of the time) then all I have to do is turn the key all the way off and all teh way back again (as quickly as I like - I don't have to wait or anything) As you can see it's not that much of a problem as I can start it now all the time, the only time I'm not sure what to do is when I've left it for about 3-4 hours, if the weather is warm it still might fail with glow plugs, but if it's gone cold it's better with the glow plugs. Is there a temperature sensor somewhere which is causing me problems? I've managed to get it to a point where I can replicate it every single time and I'm presuming it's down to temperature somewhere, it's like it's got a sensor to say "We don't need glow plugs now" but it's got mixed up and it's telling the electronic fuel pump "We don't need fuel" Any ideas???

If it's all in good general condition then neither of you are doing too bad at £1500, personally I'd try for less - I just bought my 95 N reg ES top of the range model for only marginally more than that (although it did come with a couple of problems )

Watch out for cheap shoes as well, the britpart ones are pants, the last set I had got binned as they were too big to fit in, and when by force I did get them I couldn't adjust them off, then took me ages to get them off again. Binned them and lesson learnt. ended up getting some mintex ones which were perfect

It was quite good especially with air conditioning!!

This evening I had a bit of a strange juddering experience in the disco (1995 Auto 300tdi EDC) I came back from work with no problems, parked up and then 20 mins later realised I had forgotten something so I got back in the disco, due to cars being in the way it was easier to reverse up the road, so I reversed up the road 200 yards or so (having to dab the brakes once half way) once I had gone far enough I pressed the brakes again to stop, I then put it in Drive and went of forward for about 50 yards (quite quickly) before having to brake for the next junction, on applying the brake the whole car started to judder quite violently. At the time I had no idea what was happening so pressed the brake harder and came to a stop which also stopped the juddering, I jumped out and checked around the car, all brakes looked OK and popped the bonnet and all belts etc looked to be going round OK. So I thought I'd best take it home and take the car, so I reversed back up the 50 yards or so then drove forward and braked and all was fine, so I thought I'd risk it so I turned round this time and drove off for my 5 mile or so journey which it ran perfectly. Got there parked up, then drove pack half an hour later with no problems. My initial thoughts were that it was the brakes with an exaggerated ABS type feel. (I don't have ABS) I've noticed that the front right caliper makes a clicking noise when I've been going fast then come to a stop, just clicks once, I had put this down to the brake pad sticking out and suddenly giving under the pressure. I don't think it's related though. So then I thought maybe it was something else but I don't know what, as soon as I stopped it all ran fine. Any ideas, or do I just forget it and see if it happens again?

Thanks for that, I've thought of one more local place, if that fails I give the a try as they're only 20 mins away or so.

Found an independent about 1 hour away that will do it for £35 - still seems steep to just plug it in

ouch, just phoned the local dealership to ask how much to plug the disco into the computer to reset the code or tell me what the fault is... they said it comes under the minimum charge which is half an hours labour which is £58.75, and they're fully booked until a week on Wednesday. I said at that price I'd take the bulb out Anyone know of any independent type places in Staffordshire - preferably near Stoke-on-Trent who would do it for £20 or less?

I'm very happy with my Disco it's exactly what I expected, great workhorse very capable of everything I need to do, but... I wouldn't 100% trust it, I know various things will break or not quite work right and a bit of tinkering will be required to keep it running good. I' ve got a series 2a which is my off road vehicle (really out performs the disco) and it's also my backup vehicle for when the disco isn't feeling too well. If you need much better reliability I would have to be honest and say look else where, at best your going to need to spend a few weekends a year doing odd bits to keep it running

yep it is an auto, I put it in N on the main box, rolled forward at 5mph and tried pushing the lever quite hard in all directions but couldn't budge it (then I thought I best look up before I crashed into the tree ) Then I gave up!

With all this talk about diff lock and hi/low I thought I'd check mine out as I've tried it before and I can't get the lever to move at all! it's just stuck in the bottom right. What's my best way to get it moving without breaking it?

OEM is Original Equipment so it should be what was on the LR when it was built. Don't go to LR for your parts just go to your local parts place but specify that it must be OEM or Original. Check out the usual suspects on line my closest place is beam ends - search for "beam ends land rover spares" on google. They sell the OEM one for £26 - I'm sure there would be cheaper places out there though

I just monitored my 95 Auto EDC 300tdi and I got 27mpg, nearly all my driving is to work and back, which is 4 miles either way with lots of steep hills, so my foot has to be quite hard down half of the time

Do any independent type places have any tools like testbook, or is Dealer only?? I'm still sure there must be some way of doing it in car, they just don't seem to be that clever! I was just reading on the net about Range Rovers being fixable (in a slightly expensive way) by replacing the loom as the bit that stores the fault is tripped in the wiring itself. Not sure if this is true? and not sure if it's the same for discos?

Thanks for the Help Les, it probably won't be for a couple of weeks but I like to gather all the info first, get all the parts needed etc. Then I'll spend the weekend doing it and as many other jobs as can be done at the same time, my plan is to replace the following: timing belt kit, crank oil seal and timing cover dust seal fan belt air con belt air con adjuster arm and pulley (the 1/2 socket bit is broken on the arm and there is a chip in the pulley) air filter fuel filter oil filter and oil flush radiator and replace coolant Anything else that might as well be done whilst I'm in there?

I've not seen one yet that doesn't leak - I know someone who brought a brand new one and theirs leaked the first time it rained I also know someone who thought they'd be clever and have a new one without sunroofs to eliminate half the problem and theirs leaked through the roof rail mounts

Does anyone know if a 95 Disco 1 ES Auto EDC would have an OBDII port?? I've had a quick search on the net and couldn't find anything conclusive, all I could find is that some vehicles did and nearly all vehicles after 96 have got them

Found and printed the instructions: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=6943 Les where did you get the kit from?

have you tried the multimeter with the wire not in the 10A input yet?

ah, is there anything you know of which you can get to show some of that sort of stuff? I presume all the data is there especially with it being the EDC disco

Sorry for my dumbness but what does that plug into on the vehicle? What vehicle are you plugging it into? Will something similar work on a disco?

I can't remember if my multimeter shows a 1 or not, I always use the positive side of the battery rather than the negative but I don't think that would make any difference. If you are confident that the current draw is low then most mm's allow you to move the red wire back to the standard input on the mm, this will now give a more accurate low reading so I'm guessing it just shows 1 when it is between 0 and 1 amp, at this point you should move the red wire back and it will give you a better reading (just don't switch anything on which will increase it over 1amp as it will probably blow the fuse. So try moving it back (if you've got the manual for your MM read it first to make sure it can do this function) and it should then show your current drain, then once you get the current drain on the screen remove fuses 1 at a time until you can figure out which circuit is draining the battery. Also whilst you are there with your MM just check the earth strap is OK, move the dial to resistance and measure the resistance between the negative terminal and various bare bits of metal