Tetsu0san
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Posts posted by Tetsu0san
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Hi all
So I have a really dumb question. On a P reg 300Tdi 90, if I turn on the sidelights without the ignition I get both of the sidelights. This is the same as my much older B reg 110. However, if I then turn on the ignition I get the headlights coming on, however they're dim, as if they are acting like sidelights. Is this correct or do I have an earth problem somewhere?
As a background I have owned this 90 for about 5 years, bought as a project, and after a lot of welding, repairing, and rebuilding it's ready for MOT but as I've never owned one this 'new' before this feature has got me a little confused.
Cheers.
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18 minutes ago, fmmv said:
If you do decide to do the swap and retain the original engine position, I believe the oil filter will clash with the right side engine mount. There is a bracket design on this forum to circumvent that problem.
If he's using an R380 from a Discovery then the engine will not be in the original position. The engine will be moved further forward due to the longer bellhousing, but depending on what he does with the gearbox this will dictate how far forward the engine will be. Standard 300Tdi crossmember position (with cutting/replacing the seat box, new props etc) or slightly further back.
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20 hours ago, Kaitsu said:
I'm interested to swap 300Tdi / R380 into my 200Tdi / LT77 Defender long wheelbase (110 pick up). As with the points 1 and 2, suggests the engine and gearbox will sit in without mods, to brackets in chassis, other than cuts for the selectors and probably some hoses/piping. Is that correct?
I wrote a massive long reply to this last night, but it seems to have disappeared! Anyway, I know I deliberated for a long time about whether I should leave the gearbox where it is or move evertying forward to the 300Tdi position, and although I did have to modify the seatbox I'm glad I did make this choice. Yes it was a bigger job, but everything else just slotted into place.
I have to agree with @Chicken Drumstick to a degree in saying that you'll not really gain anything doing this, apart from the ability to get parts easier. But if you do do this and you're going to leave the gearbox in the original place then you will lose the abaility to buy a lof ot of the shelf parts as nothing will be standard, mostly at the front of the engine, and you may have to shorten part of the exhaust too. If you're OK at fabricating then it's probably not an issue.
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1 hour ago, Phill B said:
Yeah, I used a similar diagram to that. The B Line was correct on the left rail, off on the Right. And the tub support dimensions were as they are in the diagram, give or take a mm or two.
The outriggers? Mine are again quite a long way out, but as these are slotted I'm not too bothered.
My issue is that as I'm going to be removing the chassis from more or less the three bolt holes for the shock mounts on the rear I need to get as much right as I can before I start chopping. So far the chassis doesn't look twisted at all, and with two rails put along the chassis to create 'B' it all looks pretty good, except for the crossmember tub mounts.
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12 minutes ago, Phill B said:
Could be a number of reasons why yours is off. Mine was off ~7 mm too.
Twisted chassis from offroading, accident, etc. Too much heat put into the chassis from welding, supported incorrectly while welding. I think mine was from the previous owner over-welding. Professional welders tend to break up welding jobs so as not to put too much heat into one area at a time, DIY'ers tend not to consider that I think.I corrected the right rail twist on mine by removing the left rail axle stand and welding. It then bent back to shape due to the weight/heat put on it.
Yeah, I think putting patch on top of patch etc hasn't helped on this chassis. It's a bit of a mess....
But I take it from your comments that I am right in thinking that the holes are meant to line up with that datum.
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Hi all
I'm currently replacing the rear quarter on my 90 chassis and I have a question about alignment. If I read the diagram in the repair manual correctly there is a datum that runs from the front of the chassis to the rear, passing over the high parts (labled 'B' on the attached immage).
It difficult to see but does this datum line up with the holes on the upstand tub mounts on the rear crossmember? For my untrained eye it would appear so, but on my chassis these holes are 10+mm down on one side and 20+mm down on the other. It's been welded quite a bit in that area, hence chopping it all off and replacing it with nice new metal, but if I am reading the diagram correctly and these holes are meant to be ligned up then I didn't expect it to be so far out.
Cheers
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14 hours ago, elbekko said:
The noise in the speakers would point to ground issues.
The engine being disabled shouldn't be due to the fob, if the immobiliser is disabled in the BeCM (my fob hasn't worked for years). What could be is that the communication between the BeCM and the ECM isn't always working, again pointing towards potential ground issues.
Thanks for that. I'll have a look and see what I can see.
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Hi all
Bit of a weird title, but I'm looking for a bit of advice.
I drive my P38 every day to work and it's always been reliable. Always starts, always stops, and always gets me to and from work.
Anyway, I've had a message on the dash about low battery in the fob, but the central locking always works. The message went away after a few days and then it started refusing to lock and unlock on the fob, so I replaced the batteries. All was good, until the other day. Drove to work, got some fuel, parked up, and did a day of joyful employment. Came out at the end of the day to go home and couldn't unlock the car with the fob. Put in the key and unlocked it but it only unlocked the driver's door.
Then tried to start it, engine disabled. Wanted me to press the fob, but nothing happened. So in a nutshell the central locking wasn't working, engine was disabled, so I had to get a lift home. I did check all the fuses and they were OK. I pulled the trim out and checked the connector in the footwell (the white one with the pins that corrode) and that was OK too. The tailgate was unlocked so I could open that, and everything else seemed to work, but the car was going nowhere. So I manually locked all the doors and went home.
Cut to the next day, I got a beaver tail lorry expecting to have to drag it up on the back, but I thought I'd try the fob. And it worked. Got in, turned the key, and it started no problems. I drive it home, all OK. The only thing that was different was that there was (and still is) a high pitched sound from the speakers when the radio is on. Turn off the radio and the noise goes away.
So basically I'm a bit stumped here. What could all this be? I had already disabled the immobiliser using a Nanocom so there should be no need for the EKA code, and apart from the noise in the speakers, everything seems alright now, but I am worried to drive it in case it does it again.
A long read I know, but the more info I can give the more it should help!
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So I bought a switch pack from a chap on Facebook (yeah, I know) but he came through and this has fixed the problem. The first replacement I bought must have been faulty too.
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I'm still looking for a switchpack to borrow if possible. I spoke to a BeCM expert who assured me that it's really really unlikely to be the BeCM so I should look for a working switchpack.
So here I am (again)!
Or I'd be willing to pay for a working one.
Cheers
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On 2/15/2023 at 4:50 PM, Blanco said:
The switch pack is known to give trouble not usually all at once though, there is a DIY fix and good info here, I don't know if it applies but the more you know about the system as a whole the better?
Yeah, that's why I'm wondering if it's the BeCM as it just stopped. No iffy switches, just working then nothing.
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On 2/12/2023 at 8:19 PM, elbekko said:
Should be a straight line from the switch pack to the BeCM.
You could try checking the earth coming into the switch pack. And measure through the wires going between the switch pack and the BeCM.
Thanks for that. I scanned through the P38 manual that I have and it didn't have a wiring diagram, but since seeing your post I've managed to download one.
I'll have a go at the earth and check all the wires from the switch back to the BeCM. Will be back shortly!
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Hi all.
I have a P38 and suddenly the windows and mirror switches stopped working.
I plugged in the Nanocom and I can control the windows, sunroof, mirrors etc through the menus but not by the switches. I took the switch pack apart and fixed a couple of suspicious looking solder joints but still no joy. I then managed to pick up a second hand switch pack but that doesn't seem to work either.
At this point I don't know if I'm just messing around with two faulty switch packs, have an issue with wiring, or a fault in the BCEM.
Is there anyone in the Oxfordshire area with a known working switch pack that I could try in mine (and maybe buy if it works), or anyone who would let me plug my switch packs into their P38 to see if either work?
Or does anyone have any other ideas that I could try?
Cheers!
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I had a really good experience with an eBay seller recently too, and I contacted them through eBay to let them know. They were genuinely pleased to receive positive feedback. It's good to know that there are some good places still around!
Perhaps there should be some kind of sticky post somewhere for people to share positive experiences with suppliers and sellers etc.
It would certainly make a change from the usual S**tpart bashing....
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6 hours ago, Maverik said:
The head was overhauled by turners a few years ago with new genuine headgasket etc. water is clean so I'm not really suspecting my head gasket.
Unfortunately air in the coolant system shouts head gasket type issues to me. Just because someone's done some work on the head and fitted a genuine head gasket (whatever that actually means) it doesn't mean that combusion gasses are not leaking into the coolant system somewhere.
Why did you have head work done before? The leaking coolant pipes you mentioned, did they cause the engine to overheat and was this the reason for the head work?
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On 5/18/2021 at 12:42 PM, Kevinstraub11 said:
...spits coolant from the nipple just below the cap every time I drive (I need to add coolant constantly).
On a related note though, sounds like you might have some pressure in the coolant system that's pushing it out. Might be worth some investigation...
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8 hours ago, Giles said:
I'm guessing - no 12j to hand - that it's an overflow kinda thing that should have a short piece of hose attached to route any coolant out, down and away ...
I've got an '84 and there is a pipe that directs the coolant down the inner wing.
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On 2/14/2021 at 9:24 AM, elbekko said:
Could be many things. Bags, o-rings in the valve block, ...
Step one is replacing the big black EAS relay with a regular 4-pin yellow relay, so it stops auto-levelling overnight. Then you can see which side drops down and look further in more detail.
Sorry, me again. Is it 'safe' to remove it as is or should I remove the battery or do something else? Don't really want to end up with an error that needs to be cleared with hardware that I don't have.
Cheers
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3 hours ago, western said:
How about fitting new foams & new fabric covers to your existing seats, that would keep battery access & be much more comfortable to sit in. Exmoor trim do various materials.
2 hours ago, Eightpot said:Yeah, don't know if you've tried refurbing them already, but with new foams and covers I find them a pretty comfortable seat - chuck in a heated seat kit as well to keep the mrs happy. Easy to add extra thin foam sections here & there to boost lumbar or seat base if needed.
I've refurbished many seats over the years, long term the exmoor foam does seem to hold it's shape longer than the cheaper Britpart, particularly on the base, though either is better than flat crumbly old foam.
To be honest the seats that are in there are actually in good condition, but they're not what she wants....
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3 hours ago, elbekko said:
Could be many things. Bags, o-rings in the valve block, ...
Step one is replacing the big black EAS relay with a regular 4-pin yellow relay, so it stops auto-levelling overnight. Then you can see which side drops down and look further in more detail.
That sounds like an excellent place to start. I'll have a look at that later. Cheers
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Hi all
I know the debate for having a nicer seat in a Defender has been going on and on (and on), but one thing has always troubled me about it. Because on early Defenders the battery is under the passenger seat (and on an early 110 there is storage under the drivers seat) what do people do when they replace the stock seats with something nicer? Do you make a frame that allows the base to be removable or do you just not bother and unbolt the seat when you need access to these areas?
As some background the girlfriend wants nicer seats in the 90 (and is even prepared to pay for them) but I'm torn because I know I'm going to need to get to the battery at some point and currently that's easy.
Cheers
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Hi all
I have a late P38 diesel and the air suspension is playing up a bit. When it's driving and the engine started it works OK, but when you park it up the suspension will drop overnight. Well, when I say overnight it varies, sometimes it will do it over one night, other times it will hold up for days (it only gets driven once or twice a week).
In its history it's had a couple of air bags changed as well as height sensors, but obviously that doesn't really meany anything.
What are your thoughts? I don't really want to put it on springs as I think the air suspension is great, and as I am (unfortunately) going to have to sell it soon I'd like the suspension to work.
Cheers
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16 hours ago, Tetsu0san said:
Is this a scam or an attempt to hack an account?
I'm such a thwack. The image didn't show yesterday and the link didn't open. Works firewall rules....
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Is this a scam or an attempt to hack an account?
The dumbest question ever....
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
@westernthanks for that. I kinda thought that might be the case, but it did look like an earth problem at first.