landypc

Hi, I had the same problem. Have you got any additional lights fitted that come on with full beam? I had my suspisions but wanted it checked. I paid for an auto electrian to diagnose. i was right, the bloody light switch. Check out Rimmer Brothers or similar for a new headlamp switch. Original or after market, they're cheap enough! regards landypc

SORRY ALL, My Land Rover is a 2004/5 XS 90 TD5 Regards landypc

Dear all, Not been on for some time now so happy new year to you all. I've posted a couple of times now about an oil leak on the N/S engine block. It's been there for some time and at the last oil change we thought we solved it but NO. The oil is on the N/S. Oil can be found on the cast lip on that side of the engine (under the exhaust manifold and turbo) It appears to be running front to back. There's nothing - from what I can see coming fron the very front. I've checked the turbo oil feed pipe - Sound and dry. The oil filters on and tight. Having been in the motor industry for some years before changing jobs, I know my way around a parts look up system. I found a very good site that all Land Rover owners can use: http://lrparts.ru/engl/. Its the Microcat system and simple to use. The only bug is if you choose the wrong section, it sends you back to model choice etc.so you have to start again. Any way. I found the oil filter section. This shows the exploded view of everything the filter itself attaches to. There's a large lump described as the oil cooler. This looks as if it has the old style 'boy racer' type of oil cooler fitted inside and uses 'O' rings to seal it along with a main gasket for the body. What I think is leaking is the bit inside, sealed with the 'O' rings, but it doesn't look like it is sold seperately. Has any one purchased a complete unit and fitted one of these things? Can you buy an after market repair kit? If available, has any one fitted a repair kit? Did it work and solve the problem? Update on what I've done to the engine. Alive parts all round: Decat pipe with full exhaust (T304 stainlessexpensive but well worth it). Alive full flow air filter. Alive EGR removal kit. Long run to Bonnyjockland in October: It needed a blow out because of slow speeds in Guernsey - MPG increased each and every time I used it In the end it returned 28 - 30 MPG All this with a Hannibal rof rack as well. Average speed 70 - 80 fully loaded with 2 kids, Mrs (no jokes about the old lady and kids please, the 3 of them are the size of atomic fleas, it's a pity I can't harness the amount of energy the 3 of em have?) + suitcase etc. Usual replies please any suggestions greatly received. Regards landypc

Dear Lorrick, 1st of all are you using genuine parts to replace? With all due respect, genuine is the only way to go. If they are genuine then there must be a quality problem. You;ll need to get the dealer on board to get them quality checked but that's the way to go. However for that amount of injectors to fail then some things is obviously causing a fault but it seems very odd that it's always the same injectors! Have they been tested to make sure they are working? If they have then it must be the ecu. Are you near a Bosch technician that know his onions regarding injection systems and ecus. Failing that contact one of the well known td5 tuners, Alive or Bell Autos and see what they may be able to suggest. Have you been using veg oil, refined cooking oil etc, td5 don;t like this stuff but it would effect all injectors not just 2. Good luck and let all know the outcome.

Dear all, Well I'm going for a genuine Land Rover slave cylinder. About £30 - £35 with the shipping to Guernsey, Channel Islands. If it cures it and from what you guys have said,it looks like it might, then I thank you. If it doesn't then I've already eliminated that possible problem. I spoke with my mechanic (no I'm not a luvy but I no longer have the kit to do these jobs or the size of workshop needed) he thinks it might be the tension springs on the pressure plate acting up but goes along with your suggestions aswell. Problem is the dual mass flywheel. I've heard that if your going as far as changing the clutch then do the flywheel at the same time. F@~k me (not while there's dogs on the street) what happened to the days when you bought a clutch, pulled a box out, used an aligning tool when you fitted it and put the box back. Mind you I am an old fart now so time do change! Oh and whats this all about the clutch release lever sodding up and having to weld something to it because a rod pusshes through it! landypc

minimaquinas what mileage and were there signs of fluid leaks?

Dear all, I have a 2004/5 Td5 XS 90. 40k on the clock. I’ve had it from new. Symptoms: Unable to engage forward or reverse gears. Intermittent problem. It doesn’t matter if the engines hot or cold or if the engines running. I pump the clutch pedal, nothing. I try slipping the clutch and trying to engage a gear, nothing. There is fluid in the master cylinder, there are no leaks from the master cylinder or slave cylinder. The clutch pedal doesn’t seem to have a lot of travel before the biting point starts and the pedal travel itself has always been from new very short. When I do eventually get the lever to engage the gears, it is very clunky and graunchy as if I’m changing gear without the use of the clutch. It got so bad the other day I was left with no option but to coast down hill from a set of traffic lights and hope I could find a parking space that I could coast into! I’ve spoken to the local LR dealer here in Guernsey, they seem to think it’s clutch not gearbox. They said something about the tension springs in the friction plate being loose or fallen out and getting trapped. If that were the case and 1 or more were loose or indeed fallen out, surely a rattle would be heard and more to the point if they had fallen out then they would fall to the lowest point I.E. into the bottom of the bell housing. Has anyone had a similar or same problem? Any ideas Cheers landypc

Dear all, I'm still in the market for discs for my Defender Td5 90 XS. I can't believe the mine field of options available. Yes I could quit easily replace with standard discs blah blah blah but I like to explore all the options. If I do opt for modified discs I was looking at DBA (Disc Brakes Australia) they are getting good write ups and all that I have spoken to use them with either Mintex standard pads or EBC Green or Yellow stuff pads. Whilst surfing for best prices etc I happened upon a company called Rossini. Almost unheard of but when you delve deeper they are up there with the best and not far off Brembo etc (that includes the price as well). Has anyone heard of them, fitted their stuff or indeed know of anyone currently using their products on a Land Rover Defender? Cheers landypc

Dear Overland Panic, Clearly a caliper problem. Sounds as if you need to strip the caliper thats causing the problem or apperas to be. Without a workshop being towed behind you I would pull the piston completely. But make sure you have new replacement parts like seals etc before, if you don't, then do it with the precision of a heart surgeon. Check the caliper for scoring blah blah. If you find some then thats your problem. Make sure you have plenty of brake cleaner available to wash away any grit and dust. Because of your location I can only think that grit, sand or whatever has got past the piston seal. Check the piston seal, chances are there is a small hole or it's split. So clean it like you mean it. Do a poor job and you'll make it worse. Just make sure that every thing goes back the way you took it out and be methodical even down you using hot water if poss on seals to get them ultra clean then grease up, oil up. If you feel 1 bit of grit start again but be warned the more you play the more chance of causing damage to a seal. Completely bleed the system again in a clean dry area. Again grit, sand, dust etc in your fluid will stuff the whole system. anything thats got hot, play safe and change grease fluids etc. otherwise in another 500k or so you'll have a seized O/S/F swivel. It's a pain but you'll regreet it if you don't. Trip of a life time by the sounds of it. Let other things let and get you down, not the Landy!!!! Good luck dude

Dear Off Road Toad, I went to spec savers, clearly they're no good. Nuff said lets hope my mate doesn't break a stud when he's doing the work. Once again the font of knowledge for Land Rovers has helped. I'm sure dealers check this site out for help..... Cheers landypc

Dear all, Let me get it right. Once warped it stays warped and wont warp again....say that when ya Mildly miffed. Get it refaced. reassemble using new gaskets and modified studs. Job done. Where do you get the modified studs from and who sells em. I've looked at all the major diesel tuning sites, nothing. Every one mentions J E Engineering and Jeremy Fearn but their sites don't show anything. I've even checked E Bay cheers landypc

Dear all, Happy New Year. Not me thankfully but a mates got a warped Td5 exhaust manifold and the studs have snapped. I've searched and apart form going back to Land Rover and buying a new manifold and studs I don't know. A second hand one could be pouring money down the drain and get one in a similar condition. It's not until you put an engineers steel across it that you see the extent of the warping. Alive tuning do a ceramic coated manifold. IRB do a stainless tubular manifold Others say cut out the webbing between the flanges and use some kind of modified stud. Again I've searched for the stud and can't find anything. The manifolds from Alive & IRB are an arm and a leg @ £455.00 & £799.00 with a standard one at almost £300.00. can anything be done with the old one, like removing the webbing and refacing the manifold. I'm at a loss on this one guys and dolls. Has anyone had the problem and what was the or their answer. He aint got the money for a standard one let alone some kind of modified one. Usual replies please Cheers everyone landypc

For the last time ALL the lights work except dipped beam I.E headlamp low beam what ever you want to call it.

Dear all, Just to add and clarify. All the lights work except dipped beam, position number 1 on the main headlamp switch. All others work. Every thing lights up like a Christmas tree, well a new one at least, almost every one gets trouble with their Christmas tree lights perhaps that's my trouble, I'm driving a Christmas tree instead of a land Rover!! All jokes aside, the only lights not working as I've already said is the side lights. I'm stumped. landypc

Dear all, All the fuses for the headlamps have been checked, none are or were blown. As for the relays I've checked these, nothing wrong. Wiring for the main switch checked, nothing wrong or detached. Stumped landypc

Dear all, Well it's that time of the year when every ones getting ready for Christmas and I have some critters running around in my wiring just to finish off the year. The lights on my 2004 Defender XS have been working fine, no problems what so ever. Start up in the morning, switch em on, electric passes to the various points within the system and they work, simple really. It's so technical I was thinking of writing a book 'how to turn your lights on'. 1st click side lights, 2nd click dip beam. Push the indicator stalk forwards and on come the main beam. I thought it might be a best seller. Jumped in the car Thursday evening to go to work for an hour with the missus taking the kids to see some crimbo lights. Started up, lights on, nothing. Switch em off, switch em back on again, nothing. Switch em on, get out and check, side lights only, no dip beam. Get in switch off, slowly push switch to 1st click get out side light, I'm getting there. Get back in, slowly push the switch to 2nd click, get out side lights only. Get the um, swear, the old lady gets the ump tells me not to swear in front of the kids, Foot number 1 in the poo for Christmas. Push the indicator stalk forward, main beams on. Pull it back, use the flash, main beam comes on. I stop messing with the indicator stalk but still no dip beam. Now it's my fault the Gremlins are running around in the wiring, looks like they'll be eating Turkey not me from what the old lady said, foot number 2 in the poo because of my reply. Now I've got the shovel out, simply because 'you're always in the poo, it's just the depth that varies' Guys I've checked every thing, the bulbs are ok The fuses are ok The relays are ok I even had a spare main light switch (new of course) on the shelf, fitted that and of course it was my fault that the bloody lights still didn't work. So now I've fabricated a length of hose the same diameter as my snorkel, the one for scuba diving not on the mota!!! It's about a mile long, that way I can keep on getting in the poo and breath for a considerable amount of time over Christmas until such time the lights have been fixed. What's gone wrong? If anyone can help, put the normal answers on a post card and put on a line with a lead weight attached. I'll find it eventually because I can't see through the poo that I'm in. I've been to Spec Savers and that aint working either. Thank you to anyone that has replied to my problems and so many others on this forum this year, I'm sure they've helped even if we have laughed because of some of the replies and stories. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you all. H E L P ME PLEASE SOMEONE landypc

Nuff said, I'm convinced. I'll keep my standard brake set up. It already has vented up front. What is the opinion on friction material. Standard LR or a good after market set Mintex, Ferodo. Can someone give an honest opinion on EBC pads good or bad. landypc

Retroanaconda, Let me get this right. Up front 90,110 & 130 use the same discs and pads. No needs to change, swap or purchase additional items. On the rear the callipers on the 110/130 have larger pistons with vented discs but the vented discs will fit with smaller 90 callipers? Obviously it would be prudent to use 110/130 callipers. In short I can replace my 90 rear solid discs for 110/130 vented with no additional parts required. Will the 110/130 rear pads fit the 90 callipers? landypc

Dear all, It's that time of year when servicing is due blah, blah blah. Santa needs his 4x4 to stop and he wants to make it happen quicker and better. What are his option? 1. Use standard Land Rover parts upgrading to vented 110/130 discs & pads all round or going after market and using EBC, Brembo or similar? 2. If he upgrades using standard parts to 110/130 spec what will he need? Are the fronts the same on 90,110 & 130 (2004 XS model vented with TC & ABS) 3. Has any one done this (I should think & hope so) 4. What problems were encountered? 5. Ho Ho Ho and all that Merry Christmas & a Happy New Year to all LR 4x4 forum users. PS Don't forget, we can go almost any where with our toys so if you are somewhere with thick snow, help some one out. You'll get cold but trust me it's very satisfying. No I'm not a Bible basher, it just proves we drive the best there is!!!!!!!!!

Dear all, As usual coming to a forum such as this is worth while. All suggestion and ideas greatly received. Off Road Toad you should see my 0 - 1MPH....now that's impressive, makes the hairs on the back of my neck stay down...........however when we travel to Scotland (the old Ladies a Jock or the South of France) then they really do help. landypc

Hi, No sorry that's another area that I have already checked. Tyres are all sound and at the correct pressure for road use. All oil levels are correct. Brakes are fine, none are binding. handbrake operates correctly and frees every time. As I've said, the only thing I can now put it down to is one or both of the sensors in my original posting. The thing is the engine is running fine. the old lady hasn't said that she felt a blip when driving and I certainly haven't felt any thing. Mind you that doesn't mean to say that a fault hasn't been logged. I'll have to hunt down a diagnostic tool and see if any faults are logged, if there are any I'll check them out and clear down. landypc

Dear all, Over the past few weeks I have seen a marked increase in fuel consumption. I'm no fool and realise I'm driving a vehicle with the aerodynamics of a brick but to drop from 29 - 30 MPG to 25 - 27 so quickly is a concern. I live on Guernsey, yeh come on get the jokes out of the way........usual on a post card please. We have no duel carriageways, it's all town work so to speak. our maximum speed limit is 35 MPH.....yeh tell me about it... and I have to enforce it hence the username. I do not tow any thing and haven't done so. I service it regularly and have not had any problems. Engine mods to date are all from Alive tuning and are EGR blanking kit, De-cat pipe and and Alive air filter and 2 hyclones fitted. All mods have been completed in 2007. I've done all the old tests for air leaks etc nothing. ECU has been checked, no sign of oil in loom. Every tank of squirt gets 3 shots of Millers Octane booster. I use only one fuel station and before you ask, there is more than one Ha, Ha. We do not have any access to what I would call exotic fuels... BP or Esso diesels. I refuse to go the route of Bio diesel simply because of the horror stories linked with Td5 injectors and other problems and haven't tried them. There is a locking fuel cap and is in tact with not sign of any person tampering with it...(enemies and all that because of my job) I've checked every where and as usual the local landy dealer won't help and over here they charge UK main dealer prices so I'm not going there. Having checked the internet, things seem to point at either the M.A.F. unit or the M.A.P. sensor. Both can be obtained cheap but simply because the motors only 6 years old any parts like this would be replaced with original. If it is the M.A.P. sensor, has any one replaced one before and did you remove the inlet manifold and intercooler to clean/de-sludge them at the same time. If the manifold was removed are there any problems that I should look out for other than soaking every nut and bolt before loosening them. Is it a pig...pardon the pun.... to realign correctly? Sorry this is so long but just wanted to Dot the I's and Cross the t's to stop wasting any ones time with suggestions that have already been tried. As usual all answers on a post card to the usual address...thanks to any one that replies. landypc

Dear all, I'm not fed up with the power or performance of the Td5 lump in my 90 but I've come across a new in crate (allegedly)Toyota straight six diesel lump. I haven't seen it yet but I was wondering if anyone had successfully completed this engine swap on a Td5 90 before. Usual answers on a post card please. landpc

Hi, If someone was selling new Td5 engines for that price there must have been some thing wrong with them (broken or stolen) or the seller was mad. You only get what you pay for. Check out e bay and you'll only find used lumps with or without ancillaries. I've checked some out today and they range from £995.00 to £1,650.00. Realistically a new Td5 lump would be £3k plus. I'm assuming the vehicle was not a Td5 in the first place. What about a breakers dealing in Landys. Get a write off and you'll have all the bits you need, engine, box, turbo the works you never know you might even pick up some thing that's had some kind of tune done. Obviously make sure that you get the correct size intercooler blah, blah but that would be the best way to go. Failing that find a Landy breakers anyway, find a low mileage motor and do a deal. Regards landypc

Dear all, About a month ago I found an oil leak on my Td5. It was on the left hand side of the engine block with a large puddle of oil present on the casting directly behind the turbo. I thought that I cured the problem when I found the oil filter not quite tight enough. Tightened and topped up to the correct level no problem. What a mistaka to make!!!! It's back. The filters tight. It's definitely engine oil, not fuel or any other fluid. Apart from oil feed pipes for the turbo what is lubricated by engine oil on the left hand side. Could it be a leak from some thing above the manifold, if so what? Does any one have any clue where this oil is coming from? Apart from the oil leak every thing is fine and the motors coming up for another service. The brakes will need attention this time. Can any one recommend a good brake upgrade? Answers on a postcard to the usual address.