landypc

Ouch, Just looked at the Heatshot site.... They must be joking £250...yeh right

Jabber, Sounds just the ticket. Have you done this modification yourself? Have you got any photos etc of work so that I can see what needs to be done. I'm assuming that once the normal twin screen jet is remove the hole can be plugged! You purchase another double screen was jet. These then are fitted via the LHD wiper spindle holes. Then its a case of splitting the fluid supply hose with a 'T' piece. Is this about right?

Dear all, OK, starting to get stuff sorted for the road trip up into the Highland of Scotland and hopefully later in the year possibly next. Ditched the idea of long range tanks, just going with jerry cans, one full on the roof with a couple of spares just in case.. Thanks for the advice everyone. So now its down to doing prepartion work, doing bits n pieces. As we all know the front washers are about as powerful as a mouse peeing on the screen. How do I add heated waser jets and/or washer blades where there is a tube or series of jets attached to the blades? OK I can purchase a pair of blades with the jets and fit them but then it's down to the plumbing etc. Yonks ago we used to purchase new waser tubing. Wrap silver foil round a hot water hose close to the outlet, then wrap the new washer tubing round it. This worked to a fashion but eventually melted the tubing and resulted in a mess. Is this still the case or is there something more substantial because knowing my luck I'll melt the washer tubing just when i need it the most. Is there any kind of kit for both the washer blades and heated washers? Cheers everyone.

Hi, WOW, thanks for the advice. About servicing, thats done well before the Land Rover service schedule so it's not down to that. Having been in the motor industry working at dealers etc it got ingrained to have a service done well in time and especially on anything with a turbo. I saw too many vehicles that went without services get ruined. Been down the route of carrying empty and full jerry cans. Like I said earlier, Yes I have a Hannibal roof rack and can easily carry jerry cans aloft but I'll be with 2 children and at the time would be 12 and 8, so I'de need to do the lifting of them alone and getting them down. Rotapax containers look quite good, not seen these before, I'll look into that. It was just an idea. Thank again

If I’m lucky about the same as V8 Freak. Average 250 - 300 to a tank. Average fill about 45 - 50lt I've looked at other systems. Some go inside and sit on the wheel tubs, well that would be no good given it’s an XS with inward facing seats... I've also looked at others that are located inside the rear wheel arch. I can't see the sense in that because anything other than bumpy roads and you're stuffed for wheel travel. The Safari-Equip ones fit under the floor between the chassis rails if I'm correct. If I do decide to be a wee bit adventurous they could be plated over for protection or similar. Fitting both would give an additional 90lt over and above the existing 60lt fuel tank giving me 150lt That would give me a range of about 625 - 750, depending on how heavy footed I was. This summer will be driving around the far north of Scotland (beyond Inverness). The extended road trip would be down through England across to France. Down to Spain. Top end of Spain, south of France across to the top of Italy then depending on time back up through Austria, It's not decided yet but we might turn south again and go down toward Greece. If not back up across Germany possibly into Denmark. From there it would be either back down through Germany, Belgium, and France then through the tunnel and then back up to Scotland. Failing that it might be a case of getting a ferry from Denmark over to Newcastle then back up to Scotland. 6 - 8 weeks should do it. We'll rough it when needed but you can get cheap digs, hostels etc. The roof rack would be primarily for the luggage. Still undecided how to utilise the inward facing rear seats, lose one side or keep the ones behind the front seats.

Dear all, Sorry but it's been absolute yonks since I've been on here. I've moved back from the Channel Islands (no they aren’t tax havens and no I aint a millionaire) to Scotland (no it aint cold either). Mileage on my 2004 Defender TD5 90 XS will start to go up. That I'm not bothered about but the fuel consumption is. Not being a recent lottery winner, a member of the Royal family or for that matter a member of any other extremely rich family, I need to watch how much fuel is being used. I've thought about just carrying 3 - 4 20lt jerry cans but insurance companies are now very twitchy about that idea particularly inside plus of course the smell of diesel inside. I have a Hannibal roof rack and yes I could quite easily store/carry them up there but then I'm adding weight to the roof area that will also affect the centre of gravity/roll plus getting them up and down off the roof with only 2 small boys would be very difficult. I will be doing quite a bit of mileage over the summer holidays with my sons visiting as many places as possible plus there is a possibility of an extended road trip in the future, so having the ability to store additional fuel without taking up cabin or roof rack space would be nice. There are long range fuel tanks for 110 where you can replace the existing with one of a larger capacity but none available for the 90. Safari-Equip offer for sale under body sill mounted long range tanks, right and left hand side in steel or stainless steel with black powder coating. I'm interested in fitting both adding an additional 90lt. Yes expensive to fill to the top but the distance between fills would out way that. 1st of all has anyone fitted these? How do they work? How do you fill them? Do they fill from the main tank and then transfer back automatically? How do you monitor the fuel level in each? I’m expecting a few smart ass replies as usual, that’s expected and let’s be honest about it help make the world go round, everyone needs a laugh. Any help or advice on this matter would be gratefully accepted. Hope no one suffers too much with the heat. Thank guys and girls.

Dear Oakmaster, Why have you got it? Did you say yes to having one fitted when to renewed your insurance? If you said yes, then you have to fit it because you most probably received a discount because you agreed to use it. If you did and dont fit it, FRAUD. Nick, Nick etc. If its a Roadhawk camera, these are excellent. From knowledge most Police services nationwide use them in their responce vehicles and have excellent HD quality, hence they use them and are that good they use the digital images captured as evidence in court. If you are using one they are good and bad. It will capture your every move including others driving badly and your reactions to them. Dont forget it most probably has audio activated as well so it will record your voice, passengers and most of the time whats happening outside the vehicle!!!! BIG BROTHERS WATCHING

Dear FridgeFreezer, Read and inwardly digested. Thank you. No additives it is. Cheers landypc

Opps, Sorry for the typo people that should read ADDITIVES. Stumps for fingers sorry.

Dear all, Getting ready for servicing. Some people are recommending the use of oil additives for engine, gearbox, transfer box and axles. In the past (in my boy racer years) I used Slick 50 and it seemed to work well. Surfing as we do these days, I'm reading good and bad for the Td5 engine but nothing with regard to the gearbox, transfer box and axles. Does anyone use Slick 50? What’s the verdict? Good or bad. The reason for asking. No noise from engine, thankfully but getting a noise either from the gearbox, transfer box or axles. I can understand not using it for the engine because of small oil galleries and possibly the transfer box. But with regard to the gearbox and axles they are reasonably straight forward so I cant see any harm in using something that will possibly extent the life and decrease wear and tear allegedly. Yours thoughts please people. Cheers landypc

Dear all, I have recently posted an idea via the modified section about shortening the steering column in an attempt to obtain a better driving position and gain extra room. However looking at it more practically I have seen an easier route but cant find what I'm looking for anywhere. Vehicle 2004 Defender TD5 90 XS. Owned from new. :D First of all, I have already changed the Route Master sized standard leather steering wheel for a smaller leather one. I have a 36 spline steering column/shaft. All the boss kits for these types of after market steering wheel have a boss that is 2 plus inches in depth over and above the splined portion that is secured with the nut. The whole idea of changing the steering wheel in the first place was to get extra room and a better driving position. It aint appened!!!!! For the life of me I cannot see why the boss is this depth! The bottom part is held in with the splines and then secured with the nut. Then you have this lump extending back with the piece that the steering wheel actually bolts too. Why? The only thing I can think of this extra dept would give some kind of cruchable area behind the steering wheel should you be in a heavy front collision. Why cant I get rid of this extra bit and secure the wheel direct to the splined part or better still someone produce a shorter boss? Usual ansswers on a post card please cheers landypc

Dear all, I posted this in the modified section because of the potential engineers looking in. I’m trying to think of a way to de-clutter and make more room for myself and the defender driver as a whole. There appears to be a large amount of space behind the steering wheel. Even if you change your steering wheel for a smaller one you end up with a stupidly deep boss and your hands still up under your chin. It would appear that somewhere between 2 - 4 inches of extra space could be gained and more if it were possible to make a shallower boss. This is what I was thinking of. 1. Is the steering lock required. Is it a legal necessity, in other words can it be removed? 2. Re-locate the ignition barrel similar to the Saab maybe in front of the cubby box or in the centre dash panel. 3. Use a started button similar to the Honda S2000 and found on some of the more exotic sports cars etc. Obviously the switch gear would need to be kept indicator, lights & wiper. A bracket could be fabricated to hold these to the modified column. 4. Could a section of column be removed successfully about 2 - 4 inches. For the engineering minded among you would this shortening method be viable. 1. Remove inner column from outer. 2. Remove the desired amount. 3. Section/step the joint and weld using the strongest type of welding process. 4. Pin and weld again over the pins for maximum strength using the strongest type of welding process.. 5. Add a sleeve over the joint with enough either side to add strength again using the strongest type of welding process. 6. Re-assemble inner and outer column making sure there is smooth rotation without any snagging. Obviously the outer column upper mounting arm would need to be retained. 5. Shorten with the correct angle at the dash end (if that makes sense) the steering column shrouds. It sounds like a load of work for little gain but I think it might work. Problem is mocking up and trying it out first without destroying standard kit.. I have looked a various parts catalogues…there appears to be a problem…and biggest stumbling block is removing the inner column from the outer. Clearly there are bushes top and bottom. These don’t appear to be available for renewal/service part. If this were possible it would give a better driving position, the steering wheel would be further away/closer to the dash (you would need to make sure you were satisfied with the distance away from you) instead of having your hands up under your chin and might have potential for people that compete in off road events. Has anyone though about this mod before if so were you successful? What happened? More important did it break……..? If I’m talking carp please tell me but it might be feasible. Usual replies please. landypc

Dear all, I’m in the process of doing minor repairs/fixes over the winter on my 2004/05 TD XS 90. For some time I’ve been meaning to replaced the outer covers on the sliding window catch on both sides. These were replaced before under warranty some time ago by the local Land Rover dealer. I’ve obtained 2 covers with new gaskets. I cannot for the love of god see how you get to the securing screws. Has anyone ever replaced them? Cheers landypc

Dear gomotomoto, I found this some time ago. http://lrparts.ru/engl/ This can be used for all Land Rovers except series It takes a bit of getting used to especially if you want to look at other areas. Find your model year range on the left, click on it and make your way through the myriad of sections to locate what you want. Make sure you have your chassis number at hand and you should be able to find everything you need. Are the relays you want under the drivers seat or in the dash? landypc

Dear all, Sorted. Just goes to show how much wear occurs over 2,000 miles. Low brake fluid level. next step check pads all round to make sure they are OK. Thank for all your help. This is what this forum is all about. Cheers

Ooooops sorry Peeps. I have a 2004/05 TD5 XS 90

Dear all, Happy New Year to you all. Right got that out of the way. I've just completed a round trip of 2,000 mile From Guernsey, round Scotland and back again. Prior to going I had a vehicle check completed with no faults found. Most importantly not so long ago I had a brake overhaul that included new discs front and back and of course new pads all round. I took precaution and at the same time had the brake fluid replaced. I had no problems through out the trip however over the last 3 days every time I release the handbrake the handbrake warning light stays on. It sometimes flickers and goes out but them comes back on. It will go out on left hand bends and come back on on right hand bends. I've found the switch and with the hand brake off pushed the switch in and out to see if it made any difference - No. Light stays on. With the ignition on and the hand brake off I disconnected the lead to the switch - The light stayed on. Now that to me says there is something else wrong other than the hand brake switch. Has anyone else experienced this? Answers to the usual place and on a postcard please. Thank you in advance for any advice.

Dear all, Sorry about this, I've got my head up somewhere. I've just done another search and low and behold found what appears to be number 42. I've already asker the question before (oops sorry). Anyway have a great Christmas, do all the usual, get drunk etc but please dont drink and drive.

Dear all, Not been on for quite some time. I’ve tried searching the answer to my question and knowing me I’ve looked in the wrong areas. There is a very high chance my question has been asked and answered before so please don’t get the hump! OK Hitch Hikers Guide to the galaxy number 42 is the ultimate answer. I have for the first time ever driven a large 4x4 turbo diesel equipped with a variable geometry turbo. All I can say is wow and perfect. It had absolutely zero turbo lag and drove like a petrol engined saloon car with a shed load of low down grunt with power throughout the rev range. I have a 2004 Defender 90 TD5. I have already used tuning parts from Alive. These being EGR removal kit, full stainless steel exhaust and de-cat pipe. itg filter. I have purchased and still need to fit the intercooler and boost box. I have seen an increase in performance and a reduction in fuel consumption with the tuning parts used so far and overall I’m very pleased. Obviously the next step is to fit the intercooler, boost box and get a re-map, that’s a no brainer, I just need to get the spondoolics to pay for the re-map. I’ve been toying with the idea of a VGT for some time. Having driven a diesel with a VGT turbo I’m now confused with what turbo to go for the best results. Alive do their 'Larger Charger' and at one point were talking about a VGT version but that seems to have been put to one side. BAS list a Turbo Technics VGT. IRB list one as well. Looking at the IRB site it would appear it’s the same one as BAS list. Allisport list one but I can't see the make listed not that it matters. I’ve checked Twisted performance but can’t see a turbo option available. I did go to Spec savers and their carp! Alive larger charger or VGT? Has anyone had a VGT conversion done and what difference did it make? Apart from my ramblings above, seasons greetings to all.

Dear JST, Go to any one of the recognised Land Rover tuners, Alive, B.A.S, IRB, Twisted, J J Fearn etc. You will need to have the ECU plugged in and the map sorted and depending on the power blah, blah, blah a boost box to stop it going into limp home mode. On top of that to get the best out of the chip you would need a larger inter cooler, something done to the exhaust, straight through minimum with a decat pipe and of course the EGR removed. What ever you do and it won't be cheap. Anything from £400 upwards for a chip plus the other bits to see any substantial power gains. The lot would be somewhere near a grand to see good power gains. I did my TD5 over a period of time (kids and all that) starting with the EGR, free flow air filter and exhaust. Then the intercooler and boost box. Next will be the chip and remap. landypc

Dear Pat_Pending, 1st of all, how desperate are you to get them replaced? Suspension is an area where you only get what you pay for. People have their own views on what's best and worst. Personally I would never fit Terrafirma shocks. A few mates have fitted them and the casings rust very quickly and are from what I've been told have the same ride quality as standard. I've never used them so i can't really comment but if it barks like a dog it is a dog! If you don't need them just yet, then save a little more and go for the best. These would be Bilstein or OME. OME come standard with Urethane buses. Bilsteins don't. Koni do some HD dampers but are massive in diameter and price. mates have driven my 2004 XS 90 and can't believe the ride quality. What ever you do make sure you use Urethane bushes (except if you purchase OME of course) you wont regret it. I have recently had a suspension upgrade completed. I scrimped and save then purchased OME front and rear along with an OME steering damper. One of the best mods completed on my 2004 XS 90. Well worth it and not regretted. If you need em ASAP then do for standard Land Rover HD as fitted to later level XS models. Obviously make sure that they are compatible with your year range, if they are they'll should be a direct swap. landypc

Hi, I've completed an upgrade for my TD5 90. I used these and the braking improvement is fantastic: EBC yellow stuff pads front and rear (go direct to EBC cheaper http://www.ebcbrakesdirect.com) DP4708R front and DP4294R rear BDA front 4086XS and rear 4088XS (use Clarke Motor Sport cheapest for these anywhere) Upgrade your brake fluid to one of these Castrol SRF, Motul RBF660 and Gulf RF1000. You only get what you pay for the discs are a little expensive but well worth it. I did alot of research into my brake upgrade. Before any purchase check ot the diesel tuning companies and see what they are listing. Alive use DBA but not the ones I've used. I contacted BDA and found a disc that out performs the ones listed by Alive tuning (see above) Brake pads are down to you. Once again Alive tuning list Ferodo but my enquiries with them were futile and never received an answer. Make sure you have all the correct tools, seals and nuts (axle I.D. etc) before starting. Plenty of brake cleaner. Shed loads of copper slip Take ya time taking it all apart using a good manual, clean as ya go and reassemble. If you have any debt about a part or reusing one, then don't, get new and replace every time. Money well spent on ya brakes never fails. Lastly BED THEM IN CORRECTLY Good luck landypc

Dear all, Sorry if this is an old subject and racking over old coals. I got into a conversation with a friend yesterday regarding Kenlowe fans and if they work. I can see some benefits of fitting one. Whether or not you would get any performance increase as Kenlowe claim is another matter. Engine run up and warm up would be reduced, ideal for winter. But that’s all I can see. Are they really worth all the hassle? Has any one had real time experience with them? I have a 2004/05 TD5 XS 90. Usual answers please Regards landypc

Alas poor turbo I knew it well A bang a squeal a whirl then black smoke No power no poke n grind to halt And then to add insult one of those bloody invalid chariots over took me TD5 04/05 XS 90 This is most probably an old topic thats going to open old scars, abit like the question about using Polybushes...Ooops sorry LOL Well I was going to change it soon along with the intercooler now the motors made up my mind for me but what do I go for? Standard new LR? Larger charger Alive? VNT turbo from IRB or BAS? If I go for a VNT how do you make sure it works correctly. Surely it's not a direct swap. How do the bits inside work? or do they just change their angle as you apply more power or de-celerate Can the larger charger or the VNT be used with out a chip? Help me please 2 days without my land rover and I'm going insane. usual answers on a post card to the usual address please

Me again, Mmmmm.....spoke to the local Land Rover dealer...not much help but whilst talking with them someone over heard the conversation. DA1127 Britpart oil cooler repair kit Has anyone fitted one of these? What problems did you encounter? Or damn it and buy a new complete unit from Land Rover? has anyone fitted the genuine Land Rover unit? Again what problems did you have? regards landypc