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SteveG

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Posts posted by SteveG

  1. i'm off to cambridge area tonight and often in west sussex, i'll be in cambridge about midnight

    I spoke to John last night he's out all day today and wont be back until late, so there is no chance of getting wheels over to here in time.

    I will be travelling near you way at some point in next week or so, but I will have a set of 5 wheels & tyres in back to drop off near heathrow already.

    BTW if you do want to head up here and pick them up, we can easily organise a days laning to make it worthwhile

    Cheers

    Steve

  2. steve, why do you want to strip them back, cant you just sand them down ,they can then be completely prime or just wet on wet primed, so unless you really have to i wouldnt strip the old paint completely off.

    regards

    graham

    ps unfortunately i now have the r/r moulding invoice, i'll give u a call when im not so manic.

    Hi Graham

    I bought a couple of side panels that had some paint damage from a fuse box fire. The paint has bubbled up, so I assumed that I'd have to completely remove it and then prime again. This I didn't mind too much as the outside panels are easy to work on. What I didn't realise until they arrived is that the insides are completley covered in carbon soot! :rolleyes: So I've got to sand all of the inside too :o

    They were cheap but I wasn't expecting this much prep work. Finding straight side panels at a decent price was not as easy as I thought. Also peoples interpretation on what's straight and dent free leaves a lot to be desired! :) It's a pain when you just wasted the fuel to go to a breakers to be asked 100 quid + VAT for a pair of side panels that have a load of dents in them or the frame part is badly warped.

    I know they will pick up dents along the way, but I thought I'd start with a fairly straight pair. :)

    No problem on the invoice, just let me know how much and I'll send a cheque

    Cheers

    Steve

  3. Hi David

    Welcome on board. Here's a pic of the hybrid, now owned by Tim, TJ101. On 35" Simex ET's and also 33" BFG's.

    RRBumper019.jpg

    RRBumper020.jpg

    frontoffside.jpg

    roofupside.jpg

    You'll need to cut the spats at bottom 20%.

    With 2" lift you should be ok on tyres rubbing. If bump stops are set correctlytostop shocks compressing too much you shouldn't have a problem with the tyres.

    You'll have to adjust lock stops to stop the Simex's rubbing on radius arms.

    I know a number of people run 35" Simex's on modular's so must be ok. I don't have personal experience so can't reallycomment apart from that turning circle is going to be better with the greater off-set of the Mach 5's. This will take your tyres outside of the original spats. Strictly this is illegal, althoughI never had a problem at MOT time.

    Cheers

    Steve :)

  4. Hi James

    Welcome on board. Not many sell them online. You can buy them online at LRS at a very cheap 845 pounds!! :o:ohttp://www.lrsoffroad.co.uk/shop.php?mod=product&id_prd=175

    In addition to QT and Scorpion, other places that do them for a lot less if you pick up the phone are Devon 4x4 http://www.devon4x4.com/products, Gwyn Lewis http://www.lrsoffroad.co.uk/shop.php?mod=product&id_prd=175

    Cheers

    Steve :)

    Sorry messed up on Gwyn Lewis link and it wouldn't let me edit.Here it is..

    http://www.gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/page18.html

  5. Hi

    I have been watching this forum and the previous one for some time so I have decided to post for the first time.

    I am looking to purchase cranked and castor corrected front radius arms is there anywhere other than qt that sell them on line.

    Thaks in anticipation

    James

    Hi James

    Welcome on board. Not many sell them online. You can buy them online at LRS at a very cheap 845 pounds!! :o:ohttp://www.lrsoffroad.co.uk/shop.php?mod=product&id_prd=175

    In addition to QT and Scorpion, other places that do them for a lot less if you pick up the phone are Devon 4x4 http://www.devon4x4.com/products, Gwyn Lewis http://www.lrsoffroad.co.uk/shop.php?mod=product&id_prd=175

    Cheers

    Steve :)

  6. I would just check that all the bolts on the belt pulleys are done up properly. Another option is if a belt is loose, it could be flapping around & hitting something else - look for wear on something close to the belt path.

    Si

    I think Simon is on the right lines. Had same noise on RR, ended up being bearing on tension pulleys.

    Cheers

    Steve

  7. Those affected may have a "Different View" of things.

    Whichever way you look at it, it is not good PR, not good for morale, and not good news for those affected.

    But they (LR) will put "Spin" on it, and some smug HR Git will think they have earned their LR Pay cheque with some silly words that fool noone.

    Oh, and a 'Happy Christmas' from LR too.

    Shame, .............they really don't have a clue ..............do they ?

    Nige

    Slightly OTT Nige. They are not being sacked, fired or made redundant. These are short term contract and agency staff not permanent employees.

    In that kind of work it's not good news but you know it's not guranteed. Their hourly rates are higher than the permanent equivalents too.

    LR have given them3 weeks notice which is more than most agency staff get.

    Steve

  8. I'm sick and tired of doing the ball joint on the drop arm every six months. I did it again when I fitted the solid steering bars and the swan neck didn't screw in far enough to make the drop arm point straight when the wheels are straight ahead:

    27112005027.jpg

    Presumably if I go and buy a Disco drop arm, I can just screw a normal trackrod end into the steering bar? Any clue how much the drop arms are? Since this'll leave the damper hanging, does anyone do a clamp kit to keep it mounted at the front?

    4allfours do a kit for moving the damper position on a Disco. So I should think you could use the bracket in this kit to secure your damper. ..

    Discovery to Defender position kit

    A kit that allows the Discovery steering damper to be moved from behind the front axle up to the Defender position away from the knocks of off roading. We supply a special gooved drag link bar with a bracket to fit it. A plate to mount to the chassis, swop the damper to this position, also in the kit is a new full length track rod bar, lock nuts and all bolts required. For Discovery I not Series II

    http://www.4allfours.co.uk

    Click on Sumo bars on left on go down the page.

    Cheers

    Steve

  9. and which springs do i need ?

    For a 2" lift you'll want 751's on the front and 764's on the rear

    Part No. Axle Rate (lbs./In.) Length (DS) Length (PS)

    751 230 15.3" 14.9"

    764 220 16.9" 16.5"

    Cheers

    Steve

  10. if it's just for side to side I wouldn't bother, just stick with coils. If you want it for on-road handling or for on-road height reduction to fit in a garage etc then it's worth it.

    The truck airbags can be puctured just as easily. Only way to protect against this is to put a hard surround outside the air spring to take the knocks. On the p38 I never had a puncture in 4 years of off-roading as theyare faily well protected. Simonr has been using air suspension for a few years on his 90 and has had a few punctures on his firestone truck springs.

    Cheers

    Steve

  11. Well pardon me for thinking you bought an older model - what was I thinking! :lol:

    You should know me better Dave- chequebook off-roader me!!! :):P

    As for the the potentiometer mine has been under water a few times probably pushed my luck but OK so far, I am in the process of moving ECU and other bits at the moment.

    Peter

    How are you moving it Peter?? Are you also moving relays too?

    Are you going for the Dastekkit? 250 quid seems very steep to me for four connectors and some wire. :blink:

    Cheers for all of the info guys

    Steve

  12. If you get the throttel potentiometer wet you will have to get home on super slow mode

    Oh Dave your are so out of date with 4x4 tech!! ;););););)

    Not anymore, it's now a sealed unit, different from early one. You just have the ECU and relays to worry about now. :rolleyes::rolleyes:

    Cheers

    Steve

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