red90 driver

Neil, I don't dispute that Kirton is a really good site, but finances just will not permit.... I would have loved to have done 6 rounds this year, or even all four of the NW series, but thats life. We will be doing Mow Cop and Wigan for sure. Any other events will be a bonus.

Bloody hell! Thats 2 out 4 sites that involve a 300 mile round trip. 4 hours driving before we start, then 4 hours back. Don't think I'll be doing many of these events this year methinks! Good job we won the Challenge North West trophy for this year. Whats happened to the map of the UK that I was taught? Since when has Kirton and Peterborough been relocated to the North West? Next year the NW will include Maidstone and Aberdeen.....

David Llama. Made us hoses with all the correct fittings, also hoses are ATF resistant as ordinary hydraulic hoses are not.

Zim - you're right as I push my splined shaft all the way home to show that something is wrong. Many thanks for the info, I did'nt know if the shaft was different or it was just a spacer missing. Cheers, Nick

Greeting all, I have recently installed 2 milemarker Type 'R' hydraulic winches on the truck. One works perfectly, the other has a strange issue...... It will sometimes put itself into high speed mode, and I cannot get it back out again. I have taken the offending winch to pieces (other one takes 2 hours to extract, so have not opened that one to compare yet) The splined drive shaft that goes through the center of the drum and then the gearbox seems to 'float'. When the high speed gear is selected, it should move onto the splined shaft, when dis-engaged, it should leave the splined shaft and allow the drum to rotate normally. However, the entire shaft on my winch can move into the high speed gear without that gear being engaged by the external lever. High speed NOT engaged: High speed Engaged: I don't think this should be able to do this...... On doing some research, http://forums.lr4x4....showtopic=25692 (No pictures now it seems), here is a picture of the shaft taken from that topic: Here is a picture of my shaft: As you should see, there is a clear difference between the 2 shafts. (The shoulder before the splines...) Can someone have a look at theirs to see if their shaft is the same as mine?

Looking forward to this seeing as our truck is just about ready after nearly 2 years in build / rebuild. I take it that an MSA Clubman B license is required? Membership of AWDC?

Ok, will try tomorrow with the warmup wizard and look at the AE aettings. I think I read in the megamanual that there is fast reovery settings which should be tweaked?

From a closed throttle, and I go to accelerate, there is a single splutter from the engine, sounds like a 'cough' then it accelerates just right. I have calibrated the TPS, and checked that it goes from 0 to 100% smothly with no hesitation or jumps. The engine will also hunt slightly when warming up, it's not major but I can hear it swing about 100-150 revs. I assume now that I will have to tune with the wideband lambda that I have borrowed, and to be fair with the MS set to adjust from the lambda sensor, it fuels correctly, but have no where that I can drive it legally, so live tuning is out of the question. This is why I wanted someone to tweak the fuelling as I can't leave the lambda in whilst offroad because of water cooling the sensor down and the engine running very rich as it tried to compensate.

Can any of you please enlighten me as to why I am finding it impossible to get any dyno tuning places to help me to tweak the map on the megasquirt? Everything is fine until I say that the truck is an auto. Then there seems to be a collective indrawn hiss of breath and a 'Ooo, no can't tune an auto. Thats too difficult that is mate. Sorry!' All I need is the map tweaking as it's running a bit on the rich side, and I can't live map it as we are not road legal! Can anyone point me in the direction of a person that would/could sort my map out, somewhere close-ish to Wrexham? This is a map from Nige (V8 megasquirt) for a bog standard 3.9 serp running Megasquirt and Edis ignition, with an auto gearbox. Pretty please?

If you have not been to a winch event yet, then I suggest the pay and play day on 26/11 run by Rogue Pirates near Matlock to see what its all about! There is several (to my knowledge) full challenge trucks going. Contact 3spins for details. If you know whats involved, then download the regs for the LRS, read carefully and get your truck to comply with them. Get your entry in as it is a heavily subscribed series. Next, get your MSA clubman B license in January Find a willing (or unwilling) co-driver. Finally wait to see if your name is down. Personally, I would enter as a basic truck with a single winch as it is the cheapest way. And go do some play days that involve collecting punches, before trying a proper comp.....

I've got ours working from the tach output signal on the MS. Worked straight away and no other changes required.

Will that same pump also run the std steering box as well? With regards to the force exerted by the ram, I've got the calcs, but have no idea about what pressure and flow a ported 300TDi will give..... If I could drop onto a ZF74 pump, would that be the better option?

Does anyone have any sound words of advice regarding setting up a challenge truck with rear wheel steer? I am playing with a Disco 2 front axle with a view to using it as a basis for a hydraulically controlled steerable axle. So far, I will probably use a single ended ram, 50mm bore, 200mm stroke and 25-30mm rod diameter, pushing/pulling on the knuckle while a drag link arrangement ensures both wheels turn together. I want to know what power steering pump will have enough flow and pressure to run the rear axle while still using the standard (if possible) steering box on the front? I've had a look at some of the stuff that PSC in the states are selling but not had a reply from them yet. Would I also transfer the knuckles from this front axle onto a rear axle, or mod the front axle to fit onto the rear? I'm already using airshox and modded disco 2 front arms.... what sort of caster angle for the rear? People on pirate seem to suggest either 0 degrees (for low speed) or somewhere around twice the front caster angle for higher speed self centring..

Daf and I will be there I think. Should be another good turnout from the Welsh(ish) bunch. We all enjoy Wern Ddu, unlike the lightweights amongst us. It's no harder or more dangerous than anywhere else we've been. Infact, anywheres better than Holymoorside from a co-drivers point of view!! The 2 day event last year was really good, and I'm looking forward to this years event.

Well after talking to several peeps now, it seems quite common for what I think is excessive creep. I don't want to drop the tickover any more than the 750 rpm it is now because of stalling the engine when I engage the hydraulic pump. Therefore, I will just have to live with it! Thanks for everyones input, I'm just an old woman!!

Yes probably much lighter. (whitbread challenge truck type thingy..) You reckon the weight difference is enough to make the creep a PITA? we're probably about 300 kilo lighter than the std Disco donor....

Thats true, but as I'm running megasquirt, I can see that when the cold start enrichment is off, it still creeps a lot. It should not be able to drive up a hill backwards without the application of the brake in my mind..... and thats with the tickover at 700 odd rpm....

Can anyone tell me if there is any way of adjusting the autobox so that it does not creep too much? We moved (finally) the new truck under its own power today, and when I select D or R then the truck creeps really badly, i.e will go up the slope / hill in either reverse or drive unless I have my foot on the brake, whereas the father in laws Chrysler MPV auto won't. This is the first time I've used a ZF auto so I don't know if this is normal..... The 3.9 V8 and box are the original donor items so have been bolted together since new.

OK, stoopid mode OFF. Have found a solution for the moment. As there was no idle control valve of any description, the tickover was dictated by the fact that the air bypass was receiving full air flow, so have found a 3 wire PWM valve and inserted it into the said pipe, and then adjusted the idle speed on the plenum. Idle is now set at 700-750 rpm. Is this an acceptable solution as my MS is not setup for a stepper driven PWM valve?

I don't have an idle valve! But I will check that I have sealed the bung......Yup, bung is in and sealed........ Does sound like an air leak, but I think the MAP readings are right...

MAP at idel is 37. I also thought about an air leak, so I've gone round the plenum with contact cleaner spray, but the tickover never changed. The heated manifold under the plenum is still connected to the water system, so any air leak could be???? I've almost blocked up the plenum air entry with a piece of card, and the MAP went up to 47, then blocked it totally and the engine stalled straight away.

Well - the 3.9 fired up today on Megasquirt first time! 2 little problems - 2 injectors not working! Now sorted. TPS wired up backwards! Now sorted. One bigger problem..... (NO idle control, no lambda sensors) Initially the engine idled at 800 rpm, but was extremely rich. Then I found out that I had forgotten to connect the MAP sensor. Connected that, then the idle shot up to 1500 rpm, and stayed there. So, I closed the idle screw on the plenum, idle dropped to 1200 rpm. Then I changed the throttle stop to minimum, but that made no difference. I have gone through the Megatune review, but cannot see anything obviously silly. I also can't find out where to adjust the idle speed. This is a map from Nige (Hybrid form Hell) so am assuming there is nothing stupid in there to begin with. Any ideas?

We started with a bog standard 200TDi 90 truckcab with a 2" lift running 265 Grizzly Claws, a Warn XD9000 winch on the front, and a standard external cage on the truck cab. Next up was a Gwyn Lewis suspension kit, and 34" Simex Jungle trekkers. This allowed us to run in standard class, (class 3) for 18 months. This did us for a while, until a big winter re-build where the cage was extended to include tree sliders down the tub and remove the rear stays to chassis, loose the tail gate and put in more tubes for the wings and rear tub protection. straightened the rear chassis, and put in a tubular rear bumper. Then 2x modded 8274 winches and a center winch. Tyres went to 35" Simex, beadlocked and synthethic ropes. Finally, ARB's and Ashcroft shafts with a engine tweek for more black smoke. with these mods, we were now in modified or class 2. You can enter any series of events, or pick and choose ones close to you. I would recommend going to watch a couple first!! You will probably need an MSA license, but check with the organisers first.

Found it!!! Totally bent and buckled spray plate on the back of the crank pulley. Due to the 2 temporary bolts I used to hold the belt pulley on, one of them was ever so slighly longer than the other, and it had caught on the timing cover, bent the bolt, ripped the captive nut from the spray plate, and then flattened and buckled it. dead obvious really! But, it had worked without a problem when I had tested the oil pressure which is the really strange thing...... A new spray plate is £38 +VAT. So a trip to the local scrap yard has sorted it!! Good job this happened as number 8 piston had stuck rings, so setting up the Megasquirt might have been interesting!!!

Yup, starter was removed, but I have not tried it again since. But, the starter would engage and you could see the pulleys move, especially if I moved the crank round to the beginning of the point of where the crank would actually start to move.