red90 driver

Just run an 1/8 BSP tap down the brass fitting. It's a very close fit, then obtain an 1/8 BSP - 6mm air fitting, use some quality air tube (I used FESTO PUN-H) and then connect to an 1/8 BSP fitting on the compressor solenoid. 6mm tube and fittings are SO much easier to aquire than poxy 5mm stuff. I have also not used the ARB solenoids and have instead used FESTO 12VDC items - Helluva lot cheaper than the ARB ones!! Oh - you will also need the later style of brass fitting on the diff housing - the type that only uses an o-ring in compression.

We're running Gwyn's kit with OME springs and shocks. Really happy with the ride and the articulation. Can't remember what the springs are - 764's on the rear? Had the kit fitted for over 2 years now. The shocks are just now startings to show their age - smidge of rust on the shock bodies. I have fitted the rough country shocks to Faiths disco along with the rest of Gwyns suspension kit and police spec springs. She has not yet got the tub on the road so I don't know what it handles like......

Yeah, get a V8. Hat, coat, door...................

Glad to have been of service, gents and gent-esses. I was looking at doing the same setup as Steve90 with the ram mounted to the drop arm, rather than welding a lug onto the drag link.

I have been given the name of a company that will supply hydraulic cylinders to any size / configuration. http://www.steerforth.co.uk/ They have a fully comprehensive DIY catalogue: http://www.steerforth.co.uk/documents/RAMP...h%20Edition.pdf Has anybody used these guys before, and how do the prices compare to other suppliers? For installing hydro assist on the 90, If I am to use a 1.5" bore cylinder, with an 8" stroke, what rod diameter should I use?

I have always been told that compressed air is incredibly expensive to produce. About 10 times more expensive than electricity. Which is why we have been optimising our compressed air driven milking robot. To bring the operating costs down, all the cylinders and solenoids have been looked at and re-specified so that they only use the minimum amount of air required for the operation. I really don't see how you can make a compressed air car efficient to 'fuel up'. 90 cubic meters of air at what pressure? Sounds like April 1st come early. Or am I just a skeptical, grumpy old git??? (rhetorical question only)

We have just had an 8274 winch bumper with integral steering guard from them and are very pleased with the build quality. The steering guard bolts to the front cross member / bumper and is seriously substantial! The first outing with it will not be for a month or so, as the truck was almost a bit of a vapour build at Christmas. We had a garage load of bits and no idea of how long it would take to assemble everything.

No, no Kev! You've got that wrong. There is a small family run petrol station about 45 minutes away, near Bronai-mawr. They open on wednesday afternoons, between 3 and 3:30. So long as the sheep have not got out anywhere. Or the cows. Or the goats. Or Granny. alternatively, the chip shop in Gwyddelwern is open friday night and saturday lunchtime for anyone needing diesel substitute!!!

After being woken up by my 3 year old at the ungodly hour of 4:30 am, and who then proceeded to bounce up and down on me until I got out of bed and went downstairs with him. What made it even worse was that by 8:30 he was fast asleep again!! Too late to go back to bed I casually sauntered out to the 90 to begin (continue) on the wiring of the ARB compressor and winch wiring. No change there, I have put in about 40 hours on the truck over christmas, day and night, outdoors. List of accomplishments for christmas: A set of north offroad wing bars (all mountings drilled and tapped). New winch bumper that has 9 bolts on it. (Precision engineered, what?) Twin optimas installed ARB compressor installed in the cubby. ARB switches and winch switches (3) installed in cubby and wired Winch isolator and wiring for 1 winch Zinc182 on some of the rusty bits (outriggers, battery box (in & out), underside of footwells)) Albrite into plastic box on the inner wings, plus all glands for cabling Twin alternator setup sorted out (mentally) Not much done then........ So, to join the club, yes, I am staying in utterly knackered with a couple of bottles of ale and a bad back. Bah humbug!!! But I may take my downhill bike out for a blast tomorrow near Rhuthin as I am feeling fat and lazy.....

Cool. One last question then... What size bolt and rose joints are you using?

Mmmmm. OK. Gives more credence to mounting it to the steering box drop arm then. Out of interest, how is the drop arm modded to take the ram rose joint and the steering bar rose joint? Does the pin / bolt have any angular movement in it? That arrangement does look very neat and tidy.

Is there any problems with using a through rod cylinder mounted on the back of the axle, replacing the drag link? I was going to make some extender bars from EN24 (or similar) with a track rod end onto the swivels and a rose joint / clevis arrangement for the connection onto the cylinder rod ends That was where /how I was planning on installing my system.....

I bought myself the 18v Dewalt one last crimbo. Very good bit of kit. 2 batteries (2.4 Ah). I just sometimes have to crack the wheel nuts with a long bar, but other than that, fantastic!

From what I understand, the switch configuration should be that the front can only be operated if the rear is also operated. There are some who set up their system so that either ARB can be operated independantly, but I think this setup should only be done by people who understand how much damage they can do to the truck! I'm sure others will be on to either re-inforce what I've said or to ridicule it!!

Would have meant that the prop requires an extra inch or two I think.

Thanks ashtrans, one RD57 now up for sale.

So it's relatively simple to fit one. cool. I now just have to find a D2 axle.... Ebay here we come..... Nothing else to be aware of then?

After buying an RD57 arb in the mistaken belief that it would go into the 300 axle on the defender.... , I think that it will go into a D2 rear axle? If it does, then what is required to make a D2 axle fit onto the 300 suspension? (remove old brackets and fab / weld new ones?) Please??? Whimper....

Certainly gives me something to work with now.

Thanks for the input. I would guess that we are truly up the creek and we will just sell the diff and keep looking. B)

Is it that the 8.05" flange will not go into the axle casing even if you use a p38 3rd member? Or is it just impossible to fit regardless? (Told you I'm having a blonde moment.....)

And P38 axles won't fit onto a 90 either I suppose?????

Bugger. anyone want a brand new RD57???

I think (as the topic title says) we may have dropped a minor boo boo.... Just acquired a new RD57 arb for the 90 from fleabay. (As in already in my sweaty mitts) However, I think that it will not fit into the 300 rear axle due to the larger flange diameter??? True / false ??? So, my question is, will the RD57 fit into a 300 rear axle without the use of a large press?

Solder suckers can easily stuff up the pads that you need to solder on to. If you get too much heat onto the PCB, then the track and solder pad can lift. For a beginner, I would reccomend the solder wick. You just melt the solder joint to be removed, and then put the wick onto the solder along with the soldering iron to wick away the liquid solder, and hey presto, there should now be a clean joint. Solder braid available from: http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?criter...rce=15&SD=Y I take it you are using a nice small tip on your iron, and you are using a damp sponge to clean it before every set of joints? TIP: Check twice, check again. If youre not sure about values or orientation, then dont do it.