petethepilot

I have a Britpart Intercooler, EGR and middle silencer removed, TD5 Alive Stage II remapping, about 1.2Bar boost, K&N Air Filter. Will get that new hybrid turbo from TD5 Alive money permitting. And am very satisfied, my TD5 is a totally different car to drive. It is nice to be actually able to take over cars safely and with a grunt. Every time I accelerate from the crossing, it just makes me smile I can really recommend Gary from TD5 Alive. Very professional and polite!

That is the new easily cleanable version...

For me it was the injector seals. Exactly the same symptoms...

Mine is in the same box with the battery, and they live happily together, although I have an other one using the D4 and a split charge system. Otherwise I would drain the starter battery. Had to make brackets for the battery and to move it 2 inches to outward to allow that D4 to fit. Otherwise, no problem. That is the usual place they put those Eberis here in sub-arctic Finland where every TD5 has to have those, for not being the warmest car... I personally wouldn´t place it under the center seat, open to all elements even when not wading. Road salt, spraying water, mud, etc. although they do say in the installation guide that you can install it under the car.

Hi! I have connected the fan controller (wrongly, I do know) direct from the battery via fuse. The fan runs 2-3 short runs after almost every engine shutdown (depending of the ambient temperature). It doesn´t seem to take that much power that causes any problems for battery, considering startup. So maybe you should consider that. The main reason for me wanting to connect it like that was that I get steady cooling after engine shutdown, like all modern cars have these days. I believe it relieves the engine a bit of the stress of uneven heat distribution inside engine bay.

Hi! I have installed my D4 under the left seat and have made channels using T-pieces and hose under both seats. It takes the circulating air from the left footwell. So it blows warm air to two channels in the rear footwell (110 TD5 CSW) and for the front right footwell. Before installation I sealed the under seat compartment using sikaflex to prevent water ingress. Has worked extremely well for me, and everything is hidden! You can buy all those parts needed for installing hoses and vents cheapishly from camper/caravan stores.

I sure hope too! You should be able to program up to 4 key fobs, new or used by your Nanocom. I really like that toy...

My father has one of those 7" rear mirror color TFT-displays in his camper, and it´s a piece of ****. I just can´t remember a make of if, but it was not a cheap one. It doesn´t show actual colors, just shades of red and green. The picture itself is sharp though. Of course the picture quality depends a lot of the camera itself. Maybe the color problem is due to the night view capability, because it looks just the same than in the dark! Just wanted to let you know, there doesn´t seem to be a way to test the combination beforehand to make sure of the quality. I bet that those real expensive ones used in the buses and big campers are very good...

Hi! I also think that you should use that red silica free coolant which is recommended for TD5 engine. Just occurred into my mind, now when you are draining it anyway...

There you go!

Let´s hope for the best and fear for the worst... If your dealer is so busy, maybe you should consider getting a Nanocom or such, you get to do everything else except changing the Vin # to the ECU, thinking ´bout the Injector codes I also have a power lock if you mean that Engine Immobilizer, but strangely it also just worked and did not immobilize the engine, or do you mean central locking? Both worked, also both are programmable via Nanocom, but what comes to a new AS10, some models and year models may or may not have differences in their programming considering the door central locking, not sure about that, should it be specifically for 110, don´t know... Guru´s of the forum, we seek your advice...the knowledge is somewhere out there!

Hi! My 110 TD5 is MY -99, but I have changed a used NNN ECU for it, because I have programmed a tuning software into it. When I first tried the newer ECU, it worked right away, even without programming the Injector codes. Why, I just don´t know, but it did and it also run flawlessly when I was driving it. But for shure, the right method is to program the Injector codes into it by using T4, Nanocom or such, but the swap will work!And of course you should program the new chassis number etc on it, but that doesn´t affect it´s functioning. BUT! if you by a new ECU, it comes empty, so you must get it programmed by someone who has access to T4 and has the latest program updates. You don´t need to buy a new alarms ECU if it´s not dead, and if it is, it doesn´t have to be from the same vehicle, it will work without any programming, at least mine did. Correct me if I´m wrong... Good Luck, You will get it running!

Is the smoke grey after you release the pedal? If it is, then the turbo has had enough...

Mine has a standard camper charging relay, cheaply from car parts store, takes 60 or 80 Amps, works just fine. About 15-20£?

Yep, the CC is working just fine, but when I connect the electronic speedo corrector to speedometer the CC stops engaging. The speedo corrector itself works accurately when connected, but then no CC...

Hi! I have a Nanocom and been surveying the temperatures now and then, it always seems to settle down somewhere in between 88 and 92 degrees regardless of a time of the year or the weather! Or then it is just unreliable...

Firstly hello to everybody in this forum! I am a virgin in this forum, though been reading topics previously as a guest. And this is not a joke, I have a 110 TD5 which has that ECM controlled cruise control activated and buttons installed in the steering wheel. It also has a RR classic -92 transfer box and 305/70/16 tyres, which explains the need for electronic speedo corrector. Speedometer reads about 11 km/h too little, which is quite uncomfortable on the road. So the problem is that when I install the speedo corrector, it works just fine, but interferes somehow with cruise and does not allow it to engage. Both work just fine when separately installed. What I just don´t get (amongst many other things) is that in my understanding this should not be possible, because there is no connection between the speedometer signal and the ECM, or does this prove it to be wrong? Isn´t the ECM getting the speed signal from the transducer on the transfer box and then it sends it to thespeedometer via red/black wire where in between connects the speedo corrector. Anyone?