petethepilot

Good point!

I´ll always go for the quality craftmanship like this, not to mention the amount of protection genuinely built inside. That´s truly a form and function desing! ( err...without any form or function.)

Glad that you sorted it out! What happened to me an a classic RR 3.9 was that the piston skirt was coming loose (so there was a crack in a piston skirt). Hence the chirping noise. Not that funny, but luckily was spotted before disaster...

If I remember correctly, it might be that one of those electric motors using the flaps is out of the range. So the problem is to find out which one, then disassemble almost the whole car, adjust those gears on that servo motor, and assemble the car. Guess how I know... T4 tester can read and test them individually, also their working range, so on your way to someone who has one...

Say WHAT? I did the same to my Td5 110 MY99 . I had to install a straight thru universal silencer to the middle pipe. Not deafening but that low noise was too much on the road. Problem only from 80km/h up...

Like SteveG mentioned, it´s a one way valve, so it SHOULDN`T take any water inside... so no extensions needed there. Or then maybe...just to be sure...

I think that the 9 liters the BogMonster remember comes from the user manual. When that light illuminates, it SHOULD be around 9 liters. So roughly about 30 min. drive off/on road and you´ll still be on the safe side. But on 200tdi I would say nearer a 60 miles endurance on the road in best circumstances...

My garage floor is professionally painted with epoxy and it´s great otherwise that you can´t do any welding on it... it will melt holes to the surface all over the place. So consider that! It will get scratches, but they are mostly only superficial. Even tyres with studs leave only slight marks and the surface will last several years repeated punishment. And after few years, grind it down lightly and repaint it, and it will come out as new! One advantage is that the light colour of the floor will give more ambient light to the garage and hence makes the working easier and more pleasant. And it´s also very easy to clean.

Hi! I really think that you shouldn´t. You can get them installed in the rims easily, but the problem is that they will come out as easily especially underinflated in the terrain. They would actually stay better on with a proper pressure, but the problem is that the tyre will not seat on the rim properly, due to a wrong angle the narrower rim makes it to seat into it. And when you apply some cornering force to it, the lip of the tyre will either let the air out or come undone. Not nice...

I will add my spoon to this soup also... As FF mentioned, for us "Outlanders" the communication via email is vital. Although sometimes you will have to call to avoid sending too many emails back and forth. And if the company doesn´t have secured payment site, you will have to call them to give your credit card details. ( I never send them via email anymore, last autumn someone in Spain was using my card to buy airline tickets...) My experience is, that many companies in UK don´t answer the emails, they just ignore them. Or they will first answer, but then the dialogue kind of fades away...and they will never answer you again. I am sorry to say, but this seems to be more of the rule than an exception in UK-based companies. If you are contacting companies in US or even in Germany, they will usually serve you nicely and politely. Customer service? I think that is! Also it is vital that they will contact you if they don´t have something, and ask you what you want to do, wait until all the shipment is gathered or send it partially. And of course, when you are paying hard cash for expensive carriage, the time when you get your shipment and open it, will really feel like a christmas because all you have ordered is really there! It´s also very important that the web sites are informative and easy to use, with good quality pictures truly presenting the product you are possibly buying! In my experience there are only few companies in UK, who are willing to serve us "Outlanders" and do that on solid and repeated manner. Those have been Paddock´s, (despite the some Britpart s**t), Famous Four, Devon 4x4 and Foundry. I have also experienced very good service from many private sellers in ebay in UK, which has been amazing compared to so many mediocre companies. John Craddock has also been fine for me. Also just few days ago I got excellent service from NoiseKiller UK, allthough I haven´t got the verification of the shipment leaving yet. Gary from the Alive tuning has been a reasonable bloke and usually very fast in his business, answering mails even in saturday evening and sundays! So IMHO this conversation is really very important for us from somewhere outer space, (as it sometimes feels, even though we are in EU, and the postal prices are the same thru-out the Europe...) so please let this continue as a very useful tool of the trade. And if possibly some of them traders would accidentally read this and if the miracle could happen and the cows would fly... And thank´s for the information gathered from this site I´ve had the knowledge to steer away from some rather "stinging" companies around, if you know what I mean! Otherwise I could be confused by fancy ad´s in the magazines and nice web-pages...

Had those symptoms also some time ago in my 110, and it was the swivel bearings. So my vote for that also!

Hi! That http://www.clearplex.com/?about sound´s like a good idea, especially in Defenders, whose windshields are very upright and prone to stone chipping. I have my doubts about the price though...and I think that your windshield should probably be in very much like new condition before application. I probably would go for that depending about the price of course and only if that would be legal here. I think that you will be ok with legality there? In the second hand you propably can´t notice it when installed... Cheers,

S**t! Makes me feel bad. Hope you get it back soon unharmed!

Are those legal in UK to be installed in the windshield and for the front side windows? You can´t put even a clear film for those in here... And what comes to those security and safety films used in armoured or rally cars, they are always installed inside to prevent shattering, and they are illegal in the civilian traffic. Just thinking...

Send that ECU of yours via mail to Gary at Alive tuning! You won´t be disappointed... Or if you or some friend of yours has a Nanocom, upload your .se1- file and send it as an email attachment to Gary and he will send you a tuning file which you can then download to your car. Your car has to have the newer programmable NNN500020 ECU though. Otherwise only via mail.

Finally I managed to upload the image, had to adjust the settings and resize it. I have a better one also somewhere, but couldn´t find it right now. But as you can see, the answer to your question what is the biggest possible, we are getting near here... but still legal. 8x16 Compomotives, 305/70/16. I like them... Actually there doesn´t seem to be very big difference between these and those 285´s in previous picture.

Actually it´s the same law in here. The side of the tire can stick out, but not the tread itself. And these are just legal. Got MOT 2 weeks ago. Not sure about 315´s though...

The relative pressure is 5,5 Bar, which is not that bad considering the counterpressure inside the engine, which would be what at high revs? 3-5 Bar depending on the engine? So it could be possible to run if it could get the air for the combustion from the tank. It would be impossible to get that amount of air from the pumps from the surface, and engines own suction is not sufficient to grasp air even only few meters deep. I think the exchaust back pressure makes it impossible to run, if you can´t solve that problem with some kind of a surface mounted suction... Also considering the depht it would be impossible for a diver to stay that long submerged. Firstly the source of air must come from the surface, otherwise you will die of decompression sicness in no time...and few other minor things. But apart of that, very interesting idea indeed!

Hi! the actuator lenght is 11 threads in some models, but some seem to have 14 threads visible. It need´s a lot of effort and big pliers to get it back in it´s place. What I mean is that you probably can´t assemble it wrongly. Sorry, don´t know how to attach pictures, otherwise I could. Cheers,

I have 305/70/16. No suspension mods, no lifting. Only 8X16 Compomotive wheels. Maybe possible to fit even 315/70/16 but then needing to adjust the steering limiter bolts/reducing turning circle a bit. Sorry, no place to host the pictures... but can send PM if you need. There it is in Avatar, but small.

The Drop arm of my 110 was so stuck that even with heat and the biggest puller they lend me from the LR Garage didn´t do it! They are using hydraulic pullers nowdays! Anyway, I had to cut it open with the angle grinder, just carefully on the opposite side of the arm, so that it didn´t do damage to the axle. Then I obviously had to install a new one...but with sufficient amount of ceramic brake paste, so that if (and when) the job has to be redone, IT WILL SURRENDER to me! Btw. Applying heat to the drop arm joint and putting that new seat into freezer makes a difference!

Hmm, I´ve got a little bit "advanced solution", but still McGyverish...: I bought some black self-glueing furniture felt (which goes under the seat´s feet) and cut six 3mmx30mm pieces of it and glued them to the upper side of the glass between the glass and the old felt. Two on outer side, on both ends of the sliding glass and one on the inner side of the closing end. Can´t really see them and they work a treat! Leaks even less, because it seats better against that long rubber seal on the rear end of the sliding window...

Yes, but you will newer get more out of the battery than it´s nominal voltage. And make one draw from the alternator to the divider, so there are no extra wires connected under the alternator bolt. Only one with sufficient strenght cable. And Btw, the battery´s - is not a ground, you are grounding it to the chassis which is the ground. And for the functionality of the battery and all the appliances, all the grounding points must be clean and solid. Also the alternator will die if battery or the appliances it is trying to run are badly earthed or the battery is giving up and taking all the current up which alternator is giving. And of course you should calculate the power need so that you will not beef out your alternator. When we are building rally cars and seeking for the ultimate reliabilty and distortless electricity for everything, nothing is taken directly from the battery, everything is via alternator, and everything is grounded to the chassis with minimal lenght of sufficient wire. If the voltage from the alternator is too high or distorted as it sometimes is, it will be regulated for some appliances. And what comes to the fuses, I don´t guess, I know. Have been doing this for over twenty years and have some formal education to that also. Formula (Ohm´s law) = P=UxI, where P= output, U=voltage, I=current so for example 100W = 12v x 8,3333A 8,3333A = 100W : 12v. And if you want something to be effective, you don´t want to restrict it with too small fuses. Also wire thickness and lenght will have effect on the resistance, which means that some energy will be lost due to it´s transforming into heat. These are examples of wire sizes/fuse sizes: 1,5mm2 - 10A 2,5mm2 - 16A 4mm2 - 20A 6mm2 - 25A 10mm2 - 32A 16mm2 - 63A 25mm2 - 100A With this formula you can calculate the resistance if you will= R= U/I And for the last, it´s not the voltage which makes the damage, it´s the current (Amps). Battery is a storage of power for starting the car, not a power source. (well, not quite, but roughly generalized, you´ll get the idea..

At least Gary from TD5 Alive didn´t know how to program/alter it even in the later model ECU´s, it´s hidden inside the map. I strongly believe that this function is not in older ECU´s, might be mechanical cruise on the older ones. But I´m not sure of that. Could be easier to obtain a used newer model NNN000520 ECU. Btw it doesn´t need any switch to activate/disengage it, will work well with only those two switches, because the other one disengages it, and other one activates. Works on every gear from as low as 40km/h (25mph).