tweetyduck

Thanks....now a question for the parts experts. What seal is this. Its in the timing cover and looks part metal, part resin/fibre and part rubber.

Thanks both. Les apart from the torque setting being wrong (for the belt) in that write up its not really what i'm after but i must admit i used it the first time i did one and then at least once after when I was second guessing myself. The cam does indeed rotate at half speed but if the marker on the cam pully is in the right place then it must be in the correct position for TDC surely. I cannot imagine how it could ever be 180 out which is why i asked the questions. Timing the pump up is not issue its the correct positions for the pullys and if there is ever any chance that they could be in the wrong position if the markers are lined up and the pin is in the bell housing. I cant see that they can but wanted confirmation on this.

Not the first time i've done one by a long shot but its the first time i've done this one. Just a few things i want to get confirmed as i'm going to time this from scratch as its using a bit too much fuel for my liking. am i correct in that once the locking pin is in the (correct) slot on the flywheel that the engine is always TDC? am i correct that the camshaft gear is in the correct place every time it is opposite the mark and not every second time? Also something new to me is the fact the engine "lumps" over the TDC position rather strongly and i have the spring loaded pin in the wading hole and it bounces past it every time so i need and assistant to help me. I'm not used to it being so hard to get it to stay at TDC. It seems to want to sit one side or the other. Any thoughts on that? Last one sat there like a gud un. A little knowledge is dangerous. Knowing how to do it rather that why you do it is my problem. hehe

Thanks thats what i thought it was and already have one on order. Surely the inreased pressure could cause the weep on the crank seal? With regards to the blowing from the oil filler would this be related or something else. Its blowing more than my last 300Tdi so its not normal to me. No idea what excessive is but in my mind it shouldn't blow at all? I know quite a bit on 300s but this is all new to me. Experience is the key factor. Thanks

Nice work. bet it was 10% of the price of mine !

Starter for Ten..... 300Tdi 1998 25L (yes its a 25L) Every now and again my oil pressure spikes to 4.6 Bar. I know this as i have an alarm set. The oil filler cap once removed is blowing slightly. I presume its possible for exhaust gas to pressurise the rocker cover which is why its blowing. Would this possibly cause the spikes in oil pressure ? It runs 0.9 Bar to 1.1 Bar on idle. 2.7 Bar or there abouts most of the time. Only sometimes do i get 3.0+ Bar up 4.0 Bar and then to 4.6 Bar very briefly. So which gasket is it or is it much more serious ? For completeness EGTs are OK although i have a slight manifold gasket leak that will be done soon. Water temps are all OK and i have no rad fan fitted. It runs under 90c all the time. Normally 87c to be honest measured at the Thermostat housing to plug by the Madman monitor. Oil levels are normal. I also have a slight rear crank seal leak which could be the high oil pressures maybe?

Find Ian Hebson on FaceBook. He buys anything ambulance. He's stocking up on Ambo parts for the apocolypse i suspect he will make a fortune on some of the things hes got.

Ebay evan have some. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/281821821251?lpid=122&chn=ps&googleloc=1007064&poi=&campaignid=620865095&device=c&adgroupid=27378760866&rlsatarget=pla-181484320386&adtype=pla&crdt=0

if you want to get one. this is the place. http://www.e-t-a.co.uk/products/circuit_protection_devices/thermal_overcurrent_circuit_breakers/

I just sold all of mine including the panel for £100. I would have nicked the fuse for you before selling it if i'd have known a few days ago.

thats brown white feeds loads and loads of things. It just needs to be kept live at all times wich is what the thick brown does. The Brown is perm live feeding the Brown White. Join them together and extend that to the new switch on the column. If you are tracing/pulling them back to the fuses the Brown goes to the 20amp fuse 1 in the engine. The brown white goes all over the place and connects to lights, horns, sirens, Brake pedel, reverse lamp switch, ignition relay, loads of things. I just joined them behind the dash to save all the faffing around then extended it to the new column switch.

What relay? Yes that seems to be it. The Brown joined to Brown White extended to the new switch. If you miss off the brown white the horn and hazzards will not work.

you will end up only needing to extend three wires to behind the wheel from the old location and connect these to the new switch. You will loose the convoy lamp. You can do this behind the black plastic trim on the "parcel" shelf if you take it all off.

This is what you need to do.

No its not there you need to cut stuff. Its easy to do although complicated.

Not yet.........maybe but not decided

thats great thanks. I'm gonna see if it will ever fit with no tension on my belt and then figure out if a shorter belt will leave it lower down. Might have time today.

Thanks i google found that a bit ago. The plan was to do just that, next. Maybe a shorter belt will sort it but as you say i need to see if even at the minimum it will close. Which i will do on Thursday when i'm back. I'll report back.

This any help?

To cover off a few other points. The bonnet is squaddy'd and damaged but its a ding not bent. The Airbox looks way lower than my Alt. Thanks for all the pointers and help. More head scratching to do!

Its genuine as per my footer Ron although its military. The bonnet underside look same as a 300 although with a few additional screws in it and its hitting just to the outside edge of the strut under the second hole. All i can suggest at the momnet is the 24v Alt is a larger diameter but not got one to check it against. I'm toying with getting a 755 belt rather than the 803 thats there and seeing is that "cants" it back enough. I've also asked if anyone can get me a generic 24v alt from a merc or Iveco or something which might be a better diameter and also give me a get out of jail free card if my alt goes like it did on the last trip (also carrying a faulty spare,,, so DOH!!). We are planning on leaving again but only once the truck is ready. To do so i think i might need to shut the bonnet. I will post some photos but I'm out for the next couple of days.

I've checked some photos of other bonnets and it looks pretty similar. I think the problem is the Alternator is a bigger diameter from looking at photos. I might be able to shorten the belt and "cant" the alt back but i'm still trying to figure it out.

Second Alternator Mount 300Tdi Engine. Standard Gwyn Lewis one but with a 24V alternator on it with the rear shielding can removed as it was certainly hitting the bonnet as it sticks up. Why can't i close the bloody bonnet! The Alt is the same fixings as a normal one and so therefor the same diameter as even a 12v.......Argh. Sensible suggestions please and to why this "normal" thing is now abnormal. Vehicle is a Pulse Ambulance with a Military Bonnet of course. Did they use an older bonnet or something?

My Luna Weekender 50 is for sale......

Thanks. got it.