tweetyduck

24v alternator on a 300Tdi. Why are there two "tickle" wires on it? are they both fed 24v to get it going? then does the 24v stay on them all the time when its running? Also. Can I spin up an alternator long term with no ill effects (other than wear) with no tickle applied and no battery connected? Thanks

Mineral is fine. I've used loads in the 300 and sometimes semi and sometime full. Mineral is actually preffered by some. As long as it meets the spec for the 200Tdi its fine. Oil is oil. its not like its going to be in for 15k miles.

Bit of an update on the progress so far. Lined the insides. Cut the board and used a router to cover raised mounts etc. 9mm is enough. Pic of the roof thickness for those that might need to know. New Eberspacher air intake comes from the front cab and not from the back meaning fresher air under normal operation and we can probably seal the external vents and use the under windscreen vents instead. Note its all been carpetted. Some roof lights fitted. 20mins to fit the second one!

@connor willing to share the sketchup ? I'll send you mine if you want.

so thats a few legitimate uses. looks like they are good to have. i'm going round inside my chassis this weekend and i will probably check the clutch stuff and may even stick it in the diffs to see what i can see. A timing belt look might work as my bottom drain is not there so i need to figure out how to see the belt with no bottom hole. I think the hole is filled with chemical metal but i need to get a light on it as it could literally just not be there.

got one...stuck it up my nose almost immediatly. Fantastic.

they'd written the mileage on the top of the rad in paint so i'm pretty confident of the mileage if not the date. It had been done. However i will be doing it again on the full major service i will do. Thats going to be at least, Pads, hub bearings, bushes all, belts all, hoses all, bulbs all, UJs, top link ball, shocks all, tyres all, hub caps, swivel seals, hub seals, water pump, fuel pump, fiters all, oils all...i'm not sure i've missed anything off from memory but I will do a FULL service before i go anywhere out of UK. That then gives me a firm baseline to do the normal services. A lot of money but as someone on here once said. Better here than the side of the road in Africa.........relating to a power steering pump but none the less still valid.

Yes they disable the siren. To operate i preume you know you flick the switch and press the horn as it has three tone cycles. Each selected by pressing the horn again. Its VERY loud so stick some rags in the horn. There is a fuse and relay removed to disable. If you are lucky they followed the manual and removed only the fuse affixed with blue tape behind the 6 way light switch.

Steve, not even sure they sell Odyssey anyhow but i was just thinking exactly what you then decided....Cheers.

buy a 801 controller and read the codes. It might need to go into the shop or some bits might need replacing. did the light in the middle of the dial flash the codes when you re-set it. It should have but it only flashes one code so if there are more you need the 801 to read them all.

All the wiring diagrams are in the RAVE CD. You can download it here. http://www.overlandbirds.com/land-rover-files.html

this is the risky reset. I cannot stress enough that if you have a real issue you will destroy your heater repeated trying this. Maybe only once. Take off the panel (6 screws) using the nob turn on the unit on and short out the indicated connections for the duration shown. You will have either an R3 or R4 probably. You can confirm this by removing the lids and checking the stickers/etchings on the units and googling. If you are lucky the green light will flash the blink code for no fuel or something minor. Switch it off and wait till it completely stops, switch off the fuse and back on. The switch it back on and wait few seconds, switch on via nob and wait. Make sure you have fuel in the tank! You will hear the priming pump ticking loudly if it is empty of fuel. It will suddenly quiet down if it gets fuel. No ticking then pump is broken. It will start after a couple of minutes if it ever is going to. RISKY ! Buy a display....think its the 801 you need. Blinkingcode.pdf

with regards to the heater. Is your tank full(ish) if its nearly empty it will not pull up fuel. Is its blowing cold its almost certainly locked out completely. Now this is a problem. You try 5 times and it doesn't start and it locks it out permanently. See the massive sticker that says this next to the panel? You've flicked it on and off repeatedly haven't you.....very bad. If there's a fault you should find out what it is but that means taking the entire thing to a dealer or buying a display and replacing the nob with a display........or risky reset it not knowing if you might terminally break the unit. Its up to you as i can tell you the risky reset procedure but its risky. Have i said that enough.

Push the button in hard. There's a slight click and it releases.

Run engine device ORANGE LIGHT 46 A run engine device is mounted on a double relay bracket attached to thedash behind the fascia. 47 The run engine device senses low battery voltage and automatically operates the buzzer and 24V warning light to advise of the necessity to run the engine. This occurs when the battery voltage drops below 24.4 volts, due to extended use with the engine not running. The warning light illuminates and the buzzer sounds intermittently. Circuit breakers (CB3 SHOULD BE LEFT OFF UNTIL NEEDED) 45 There are five circuit breakers contained in the Distribution/Control box in the ambulance compartment. These breakers protect the ambulance compartment circuits as follows. 45.1 CB1 - Heater 45.2 CB2 - Blowers 45.3 CB3 - 12 volt socket 45.4 CB4 - Lights 45.5 CB5 - 24 volt sockets WARNING USAGE. CB.3 MUST BE SWITCHED OFF WHEN 12V SUPPLY SOCKETS ARE NOT IN USE. The heater is a Eberspacher DL5C the manual is easily obtained via google and the internet. If the unit is locked out you will need to reset it. This is not easy to do and requires significant thought before doing so. The reason for the lockout needs to be ascertained first or you can destroy the heater. What exactly is it doing ?

this wheel?? http://accessories.landrover.com/gl/en/discovery-sport/wheels-wheel-accessories/wheels/lr060854-alloy-wheel-18-10-split-spoke-style-109/

That oil drop looked clear. Which is good. If the metal was paste then good. If it were sharp fragments then bad. looks normal to me. Previous advice was good. Pull the plug in a few weeks and stick your finger in the hole. No need to drain it all if its looking clear and magnet is OK. Just top it back up. Take few hundred mL in a glass to see. Magnet speaks for itself.

As far as I know if you cancel the lockout on an Airtronic the unit will only start once its done another full check of itself, if it finds a fault it will not start up even after cancellation. However yes if you don't know the reason for lockout then its good practice to find the fault first. However I'd hardly say low fuel was reason enough for a permanent lockout. If I'd been on the road I'd not have been able to unlock the unit (as the detail on process isn't readily available) and may very well have frozen to death !

I googled for hours to try and fix this and finally I found something useful. To reset a locked out Eberspacher D5LC (may work on other models) all you need to do I short out two wires. You do not need to buy a 701 or 801 controller or take it to a dealer. 25 1688 50 00 / 12V and 25 1689 50 00 / 24V in versions R0,R1,R2,R3,R4 are confirmed to work. Although you need to short the wires for longer time on the R3 and R4 models of ECU. Up to 5 seconds for the R3,R4 and up to 2 seconds for the R0,R1,R2. To do this try to start the unit as normal. This will not work as its locked out however you will get an illuminated Green LED in the middle of the dial. With the Green LED illuminated short out the two pins as per the diagram below. Do not remove the wires just short them out where they are. The heater should immediately start up if the duration of short is long enough. Mine took 3 seconds maybe as its an R4 Remove the short as soon as the heater starts up The green light may blink the last error code whilst the heater is running Let the heater run for a good few minutes and then allow it to shut down as normal by turning the control knob to off position Allow it to fully cool down and shutdown Power cycle the heater and then attempt a fresh restart. The green light should be steady with no blink codes and it should now be unlocked. The symptoms of a lockout for me was upon turning on the heater the fan didn't blow and the unit did not start. The green LED was steady indicating no fault codes and no matter what I did it would not go into start-up procedure. This seems typical of a lock-out. All I did was have a low fuel tank and this locked it out.

No such luck on mine. The plug isn't there. I wish it was !

The OLD thick brown and the brown white (this is main flash plus loads of other feeds to a multitude of circuits) need connecting together and then that needs extending connecting through to your NEW brown column switch. The OLD two reds need connecting together (rear lights + side lights) and then running to the NEW red on the column switch. The OLD blue (headlights) needs extending to the NEW blue on the column switch. sorted you'll be ditching the Red Black convoy I presume. Tape it up. The new switch is a PRC3430......I cut off the connector and used bullets.

the 6 way has a couple of red wires that If you have no rears its these you have missed off the circuit. Just done mine yesterday !

I'm doing round the cooker with Stainless so if that attracts all the humidity I'm laughing. I'll have to have a look around. I might as Errol to see what he uses. He the guy that did lizzybus. I'll take a look in B&Q. I know what you mean though as I use that folded stuff in the house with fibreboard on top. Cheers

Hi Guy.... yes the walls are foam filled but skinned Aluminium so will be a very cold surface. I was thinking Automotive carpet or the stretch stuff but as you say the stretch is thin. The proper auto carpet might be better and the one that's backed. But it will add a lot of weight. I was wondering about carpet tiles but again VERY heavy but can be done progressively. I might need to remove everything already done to carpet it. On the plus side i got myself a CSW dashboard trim today for beer tokens so my Mud Console will now fit correctly. The Military dash has no grey plastic cover so the console was left with big gaps. I got one from a local guy and he asked for nothing for it so I gave him £10. They are over £100 new and trim bits are hard to get second hand.

BTW a bit of an update. I removed the EGR and fitted a MadMan EMS2. I'll post come photos but they will also be on the FaceBook Overlandbirds page and on the blog. nothing more happened to the insides. The bed is only patrially finished but functional. Nothing else done yet. Want to get all the electrics done but as it happens condenation is by all acounts a nightmare so i'm goign to carpet the back and might fit rubber flooring.