madcanuck

Sorry to jump in on this, I have a few questions regarding Britpart/ Paddocks. I'm very new to the whole LR thing, right now I'm in the process of compiling an order for all the chassis and suspension bushings from Paddocks, how do I know if they're OEM or Britpart substitutes? Also, how does Bearmach fit into all of the spares market? Anything I should know about these vendors? With regards to the altenators, I'm not quite sure what's on mine appears to be Lucas, is it possible to upgrade to a 100 amp, I have a V8 engine with a/c, etc? If so then where to buy one, other than Paddocks and not break the bank? Thanks, Tracy

Thanks For all the tips everyone, they came off without any swearing, I kept cleaning and spraying penetrant as I was dismantling everything else, and I did have the big breaker bar. I will be assembling everything with tectyl, its an aviation corrosion preventative compound, along with mastinox (JC5A jointing compound) so I don't have to fight with all the dissimilar metal corrosion again. My chassis will be back from galv and painting next week so all the fun begins on the rebuild. This has been quite the experience, my first landy, and as a learning experience I decide to completely restore it...before taking it back to canada. This forum has been very informative and helpful, Thanks to all with their feedback and tips. Tracy

Thanks for the info, will go buy one! T

Hello All, Does anybody know off the top of their heads what size socket is used for the large Radius arm nut? (It's the one facing forward on the rear arm and the rear facing on the front) Thanks, Tracy

Thanks Guys, That's good news and I did get nuts to go with the wheels! I have enough on my plate with the rebuild, I didn't really want to have to start going down that road as well! Cheers, T

Thanks for the info, so the piping I bought is probably cupro-nickel, just thought it was steel alloy of some sort. The steel pipe I was looking at using was aviation grade with all the swaging/forming bits, however, wouldn't make an easy fix if something breaks or cracks. Tracy

After reading a few of the different threads, it appears that when replacing brake lines, copper appears to be the material of choice, this may sound naive, but why copper? My understanding is that steel would flex less, is copper better against corrosion? One would think it would be the sacrificial material with all the steel around it. Does it conduct the heat better from the fluid? Steel is much harder to shape, however, when using the right tools it's not so bad. Before I start putting all new steel lines on I would appreciate any feedback from the guru's out there Thanks, Tracy

I just read in one of the monthly magazines that if I was going to put alloy wheels on I would need to replace the wheel studs (see pic attached). As I was planning to do this and have the alloys which are un-yet fitted as my project is not complete at the moment. Do I really have to do this? My landy is a 85 dbl cab, with old style axles, will they still work with the hub spacers? Any feedback is greatly appreciated, Cheers, Tracy

You sold it, now what are you going to build up? Is he going to use it or put it in his museum? I'm down in Yemen right now, saw a couple of intersting Defenders here, with SAM's in the back of the pickups at the airport, they really frown on us taking pics of there equipment...what to do? Will be intersted to hear what your next project will be, on a side note the dbl cab that i have was owned by the sheikh up in saudi that has the import rights for Landy's, he had his workshop convert it from a county wagon, it was then sold to the person that I bought it from (I'm only the 3rd owner with 102k km on it) Cheers T

Thanks All, Good point, Never thought of that, makes sense now, seems like it would be better to use a strap or chain wrench to hold it. I can get one used pretty cheap here, so I get one and clean it up, put it on when engine is out. T

Any idea why this hole wouldbe in the fan body? It still spins freely, engine runs really cool (even with the body on!), So the fan hasn't been a problem...yet. The only reason i can think of would be to create more friction at lower speeds. My limited experience tells me to change it. Any thoughts? Thanks, T

These are some pics I recently took from my V8, I have no idea what the difference is between the compressors, but I can take some other shots if this is what you're looking for! T

Streaky, Here's something else that might be useful (I know you're running a big V8), can't remember where I found it though!L316_CONVERSION_MANUAL.pdf Cheers, T

i don't have a welder Maybe I confusued the furthest aft xmbr with something different, the one under and just slightly forward of the xfr case is bolted on, but rear isn't, and the parts breakdown I had appeared to show a bolt on unit (was a 90 ipc), inexperience with the vehicles. I understand that if it wasn't welded on you might end up with your tailer or caravan wandering down the road on it's own T

Nick/Mads, Thanks for the tips, after due consideration, I've actually ordered something very similar, going to pull the engine first, then the gbox/xfr case. I've decided to by an engine hoist and "load leveller" pull the units, push the remainder back, then pull off the chassis and take it for sandblasting, zinc and paint. Then the fun of re-assembly. T

I agree with you on the above, I'm re-doing my looms as we speak! Spiral wrap is far easier to work with, looks neater, expandable, easier to access during trouble shooting and cleaning. Ty-wraps to mounts much easier, you can make a very clean looking wire run across the bulkead, no interference with the front. T

Ouch, Actually, I'm just looking for the curved corner/back lower from a truck cab and a 90 Roof. My beast is a Double cab, the mod they did cut off the top of the rear door, moved it back, fabricated a rear lower bulkhead, then chopped the roof back, not pretty but very functional. I guess they would be a pretty price if he's converting all the former Omani veh. A little of topic, The goal is to have my beast done for the offical "coming out of the shed" party Nov.30. Just needs to meet Registration criteria... Currently, The bet is for 2 flats of beer if it's not done, by me, if it is, it's 2 flats if it is by other guys (just to start of course). Will be a good night by all B) , Neil and yourself should come down! Also, We are planning the 2nd annual "Pre-Ramadan Porkfest" Braai Sept.7, will keep Neil posted. Cheers, T

That sucks, glad mines in good condition, is it only the 90's that have a bolt on? T

Thanks Guys, I'll have to check out BMW road in Sharjah, I've only heard of Mitsubishi rd (where all the wreckers are I believe). Need to make a trip to Sharjah, check it all out. Musaffah but bigger I bought up what Gulf Stars had a while ago (8), There is an Allmakes 4x4 here now, I believe there is one in Sharjah too! I'm off to Italy in a few weeks for work so I'm thinking of placing a order with Paddocks for a bunch of parts, then bringing them back here. The p#'s help, I'm just trying to get my microcat working, should help. Hey Streaky see any truck cab back wall/windows up in Sharjah, or a hood (bonnet)? Cheers, T

Thanks guys, I'm going to give it a whirl, good point about the clutch, It was done less than 3K kms, when the previous owner put the 5spd gearbox in, i'll pull it apart anyway as I want to check the clutch fork and reinforce the pivot point on it so I can avoid potential problems in the future. 500 hrs for a rebuild, wow. Do you feel it was worth it? I find it a great learning experience. The labour can be pretty cheap here, so I'm planning to get the frame/bodywork done by a shop. Rebuild I'll do on my own. Cheers, T

Hey Streaky, Yes they are the the square ones, both large and small, very few have cracked on removal, and since I'm stripping and repainting the bulkhead, I thought I would replace them. Primarily the one's in the footwells, and eng. bay! Thought I would just buy them all new if need be. Where in Sharjah? Is there a supplier or do you get them from the wreckers? Thanks, T

Nick, Good question, helped me out as well. Did your new altenator fit right in, otherwise? I need to upgrade to a higher capacity one as well, are they expensive? T

The rear xmember on my '85 110 is welded on, is this right? Does the original get cut off when it rots out and then a new one bolted on? I'm new to this so just trying to figure some things out. There doesn't appear to be any holes on it where it was to be bolted through. Cheers, T

I'm going to try and replace all teh cracked plastic nut inserts found all around the bulkhead and engine bay. Does anyone know where I can find a large qty of these. The local supplier here in Abu Dhabi has a very limited amount. I will be going to Italy in Sept. so I can always get them shipped there before coming back here. Thanks, T

Before I blindly rip my engine/gearbox/transfer case, out of my chassis and drop it in the sand, is it possible to lift everything as a complete unit? I've read in previous threads that the gearbox and transfer case can be pretty heavy, will it offset the weight of the engine, I won't have a lot of height to work with to lift. Is it safe to use the xfr case rear output as a rear lifting point? I have the bulkhead off so this seems to be the easiest way to do it then just push the chassis and running gear back for cleaning, sandblasting, zinc, etc. I should mentin it's a V8, and unless I find a engine hoist I'll be making a tripod and chain hoist assembly to do it, limited resources here in the desert A lot of questions here, it's my first LR and I'm completely rebuilding the truck and would rather not drop everything Thanks all, any input, tips, advice would be greatly appreciated. Tracy