potato head

I have 3mm cheq plate riveted on mine. Been there for 2 years with no problems. I did fit it with a neoprene strip between the plate and the rack to stop any vibrations.

Just checked the invoice £309.54 inc drop ARM, vat and delivery.

16MM will be what you need. I used a company on eBay for mine - http://stores.ebay.co.uk/jjcraceandrally?_trksid=p4340.l2563

I fitted a new Adwest box 2 weeks ago. Cost me just over £300 inc delivery. Next day delivery if you order early in the day. When you call them speak to Gary. Great service.

Cheers Ralph.

Hi Guys, I have a new 4 bolt pas box coming tomorrow and I was wondering if someone could tell me the fixing bolt sizes to mount the box to the chassis as the ones that are on are only coming off with an angle grinder. PH

Fuse box, the one with white wire if I remember correctly but if its multi clicking its more likely to be as per mmgemini has stated as its a single click for the relay.

Starter relay connections cause this problem.

I used a 20 tonne press on mine and that struggled like hell !

Ok a little heat yeah but welding heat is a lot less and more localized than the heat produced by a oxy torch

It's already at its best position after rotation. I think what I may do it to part cut the lower stem in the middle and then bend the stem to the best position and then re-weld the cut up. This way I can get it into it's best angle without using any heat.

Tomorrow I'm planning on putting some heat on my gearstick and bending it away from my centre console and cb Mic cable. It's going to be done off vehicle but having just removed the gator and looking at the stick, I'm wondering what issues, if any I will come across by doing this as the stick seams to be mounted into some sort of rubber inside the selector piece that has the 17mm af but on. For anyone that's had to do this did you bend the stick or add more bend to the bottom near the nut?

Why not cover it with a grained vinyl? I have just made a centre console (mudstuff style) and it looks a whole lot better than a painted finish and it also matches the centre console that I made before Christmas

Make sure all the wheels have the correct pressure, get a full tank of fuel, find someone of average weight to sit in the drivers seat and then measure again. Also, I found that measuring from the centre of the wheel to the eyebrow gave a better result than using the bumper for dimensions as bumpers get bent :-o

Yep it does make it difficult to drive when it fails.... first hand experience there

Is this not a possible power steering pump faliour?

Forget that, just realised yours and mine will be the same in that respect.

Just as a matter of interest when the turbo is in its rest position, what measurement do you have from the centre of the pin on the exhaust manifold (where the wastegate rod eye attaches) to the face of the wastegate bracket?

The only difference between the old and new wastegates is the amount of thread on the shaft, more on the one that was replaced but the nut to bracket position is the same.

Thanks Reb, having read this doc a number of times I am now in this position.... Wastegate wound in by 9mm (max it will go) Stroke limiting pin checked - nice and loose Star wheel rotated by 3/4 cw Diaphram rotated to give max fuel Smoke screw wound in be 1 1/2 turns Still 0.8 bar :-(

Yes, all trials with different settings were on the road. For ref the distance from the wastegate bracket to the lock nut on the wastegate arm is 29mm. Not sure if it should be less than this to achieve a higher boost pressure or not. The eye piece has not been modified in any way.

Ok so I seam to have hit an issue here. Set the wastegate arm up so that it was on the pin with enough pressure to close the flap, put the gauge on and got 0.8 bar. Wound the wastegate rod in by about 9mm (all that it would go before to bottomed out) and its still at 0.8. Turned the star wheel by 3/4 turn and its still 0.8. Wound the 'smoke' screw I'm by a turn and its still at 0.8 bar. Am I missing a trick here?

Thanks Reb, I will get the gauge out and set it that way.

Can anyone let me know the distance from the centre of the Wastegate rod hole to the bracket face (as a standard setting before modification for turbo boost)? I have needed to replace my wastegate because it was leaking and the one that was originally on it is different to the one that I have to change (original has a lot of the thread showing and about 28mm from bracket face to nut and new one has a very small amount of thread showing, 30mm from bracket face to nut and no chance of screwing in the shaft to the rod end). I'm trying to get the turbo set up as standard before mods but now im little confused (200tdi disco engine)

I've had an issue before with the throw out mechanism being jammed. The gear end was all fine along with the solenoid but the mech between the two wasn't slowing one to work the other. Once properly stripped and rebuilt all was good.