potato head

Yep, that's on the list along with mods to the exhaust, oil cooler pipes, turbo and water pipes, maybe electrics, relocation of air filter box, getting an engine hoist and rewelding the mounts. That's why I'm swinging towards a stumpy but also weighing up the £££ v agro / time.

Thanks chaps. Just as a matter of interest, if I was to stick in a Disco R380 gear box how much would the engine mounts need to move forward to accommodate the gearbox and would I also have to re-position the gearbox mounts?

I'm pretty close to ordering a 44a stumpy R380 from Ashcrofts and have a few questions for anyone who can help? It's going onto a 200tdi which was a transplant to replace a 2.5 td which is at the mo connected to a LT77. Can I use the same clutch that's currently in as its fairly new? Also, I have a new slave cylinder that I was going to use on the LT77, can I still use this in the stumpy? Thanks in advance.

Thanks guys, I also need to replace the curved piece as its rotten so I guess ill need to manufacture it myself.

I bought replacement door pillars along with the bulkhead corners from YRM to replace on the old girl but I'm a little confused. The door pillars are just a straight piece without the curved part at the top like these from Paddocks http://www.paddockspares.com/lr60l-door-pillar-repair-section-lh.html How have other people that have bought these from YRM dealt with this issue?

I too would be very interested in this as I also would like to fit a R380, if I can get hold of one.

If there is a wading plug in the cam belt cover take it out to see if there is any oil in the cover.

Nice, can you tell me the distance the quick release sticks out from shroud?

But it can twist around the axis of the axle. The trailing arms, via the bushes, can allow the axle to rotate around the half shaft. Not a lot but enough to have a miss alignment (I found this out the hard way)

I did this last week but changed the ball joint and left the arms attached to the chassis. I jacked up the axle and put stands under for support. This keeps the axle in the correct position for me to do the ball joint.

All sorted now, thanks.

Guys, is anyone able to collect a tyre for me from Caterham, Surrey and hold onto it for me until I can get down to pick it up? Mods, sorry if this is in the wrong place but I was struggling to find anywhere else to put it.

It could be the screw that holds the light to the roof.

Thanks guys.

In the engine bay, on the bulkhead, there is a plastic cover that stops the dirt getting to the wires that go through the bulkhead to the fusebox. Any Idea what the number is for the plastic rivets that hold the cover onto the bulkhead? They are the same design as the ones that hold the wheel arch spats on but a lot smaller.

My experience is that winter will take 10% off the mpg due to the colder dense air and all the additives that are in the diesel to stop it freezing.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=74151&st=0&p=635445entry635445

My light start to come on at about 70 - 80 miles, needless to say I take no notice of the light. Summer I get 220 miles from brim to stop, winter I get 200 if I'm lucky.

Which leds are not working?

Are the bonnet bushes ok?

Check the UJs on the steering column.

And it only does it when your off road and not on tarmac? Have you checked the engine and transfer box mounts? Bump stops fitted and not bottoming out on the shocks?

Where is the noise coming from, front it rear?

Check the shock bushes.

If your uj's have grease nipples I would be inclined to pack them both along with the nipple on the prop and see if it makes any difference at all. It's a cheap 5 minute test that could save you replacing the uj's and if they are the issue you will be able to drive and the noise will go for a while but it will return. This is not a cure, just a highlight or elimination process that has worked for me in the past.