cookie64
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Posts posted by cookie64
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Hi All,
I know this has probably been covered before but i have put quite a bit of effort in to this project to make it great and thought it would be useful to share as i couldn't find much information when i was looking
So my plan was to do a triple wiper upgrade, i had heard of this previously and thought it was a great idea as i hate how useless the sweep area of the defender wipers are, for instance i have been running 13" blades for years when the LR standard fit is 11"
First job find info from previous attempts made, status: unsuccessful
i couldn't find any info just a photo of one job that didn't excite me due to the use of 2x 11" blades and 1x 10" blade with spacing dictated by the current holes in the bulkhead,
Note: i am not scared of drilling my Landy
this is the photo
so i measured everything up and did some cad magic to figure out the perfect sweep
perfect
time to order parts now and since my current wipers were a bit shot i decided to go all out new
3x genuine wiper boxes
3x genuine wiper blades
and 3x new bosch 13" blades
time to drill
first wiper drilled and test fitted
measuring from the left hand edge of the rain gutter below the windscreen i drilled at 185mm, and dead centre of the bit of metal where the wiper spindles sit and it was a 10mm hole
then the next two holes, 370mm from the centre of the first hole and then 370mm from the centre of the second hole,
all 3 13" wipers and arms fit perfectly,
now obviously i have moved all the wipers toward the drivers side to make the best swept area infront of the driver, to do this i removed the drive gear from the wiper motor which is 115 degree of movement and replaced it with one which does 105 degrees of movement
now the only thing left to do is make up some new drive cable tubes to accommodate the new position of the wheel boxes, probably the easiest part of the job.
if i missed any vital information out of this post let me know and ill add it, i hope this is useful to someone
In Total this upgrade has cost me about £120 although i needed 2x new boxes arms and wipes any way so the real cost of upgrading was only really about £50
cookie64
Tom
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I finally remembered to stick the thing in the car and take it into the local Halfords. I'm pleased to report that the chap in there seemed to have no qualms in ordering me a new style 24" bar (unfortunately none in stock today), no request for receipt at all. Not bad given that it's 7 years old and has seen some 'heavy use' - with some very much out with its design parameters I would say.
He said that the first time you break one you get a new bar, the subsequent times just the head, but I'm not sure whether that's a Halfords policy or just his musings.
'heavy use'
would one of these heavy uses be smashing it against the chassis to undo your crank pulley nut?
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thanks for the responses guys, some very usefull information there, i was thinking of using my luggage scales for the pull test
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Hi All
I Know this has probably been covered across numerous threads in the past but...
The time has come for me to completely rebuild my swivels, I plan to use all new parts (gaskets, seals, balls, grease, pins & Bearings)
I was just wondering if anyone can give some advice on parts, which are the best to buy for my money and where from and is there any brands I should steer clear of?
Thanks
Tom
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Hi All
ive just noticed one of my local farmers having a rant on facebook about 'Bloody Stupid Greenlaners'
Someone was out laning near the A5 yesterday and left a farm gate left jambed open, 50 sheep ended up all on the A5, this could have cost a motorist their life or indeed a poor sheeps life.
just a friendly reminder to say leave all gates as you find them!! or we will end up with angry farms chasing us and a tragidy on our concience
thanks
Tom
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i took my 300 to the northern tip of norway 5000 mile round trip in 14 days, lots of spining sideways action on snowy mountain roads in finland -53 C at the worst, blown head gasket at the furthest point from home and limped it home, also snapped my rear prop in denmark on my way back
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A rear prop on a 110 is very long and without massive angles so i would say longer.
i would normally describe myself as a britpart hater but i had a whole britpart rear prop on my ninety for ages and i dont treat props very nicely
it was an emergency spare when i snapped my gwyn lewis one haha, anyway it lasted 2 years, with lots of abuse, never greased and me wishing it would die so i had a good reason to replace my good failed prop, it also survived a 5000 mile trip to the arctic circle and back.im going to guess that this thread will be lost by time time it fails on you, and i assure you i hate britpart, the only reason it will last is becasue of stuff-all horrible forces on a rear prop and britpart stuff hates you more than you hate it so if you want it to fail then it wont haha.
if you really want to see how quick they fail then fit them on the front and come for a play in north wales, ill kill it in a day
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That is now my new favourite security measure !
i have to admit i have been using the oily spanners and haynes manual for years although normally due to it actually being broken down
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Lol, mine does that to and is from one of the very first batches so you could say it's had a long term test now.
The only issue it has caused me is when I forget about it, I've jacked a wheel up a few times now and thought 'oh bugger, what the hell is up with these bearings/brakes?'
On the plus side it makes checking the brake lights easy
Another vote for the x defend pedal lock here.
Being cack handed, the installation of mine had an unintended effect.
As I mounted it too close to the pedals, when locked on, the brake pedal is depressed locking the wheels
Not sure about the long term effects, but so far so good.
Haha
I also managed to fit mine a little cack handed so it presses the brake pedal, its great in my opinion, locks all wheels solid and been fitted for well over a year with no side effects yet
i also had the same problem about forgeting about it though when changing propshafts, its impossible to remove a propshaft if you cant rotate it
tom
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Just a warning for anyone in the Ellesmere Port, south Wirral area, that there is currently someone out stealing cars, last night saw the 7th burglary in 4 nights in the roads around my house and it was my friends defender.
stolen at 12:45 (night) and recovered by the police at 2:45am in Liverpool, not sure of the damage yet but they have pretty much written of my friends missus car and also the neighbours which were blocking his defender in
Fair dos, the police have done a great job to track and recover the car in 2 hours and should be applauded for the hard work, now they just need to catch the thief
tom
Pictured is his missus car
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haha
shed- load of cash
FANTSTIC PUN USAGE!!!!!
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Wow this thread escalated quickly haha
Its pretty obvious that a lot of you also have similar crazy ideas in your heads and that's great it like one big crazy community
thanks for all the info guys you have given me a lot to think about on my current 12 hr night shifts and extra research to do, I looked at the price of palletised engines and they are almost 4K then the loom link you shared is another 4K this is getting expensive quick!!!
I think the idea of an accident damaged one would probably be the most economic way to go, maybe if I could buy a rolled d3 then I could rescue the engine, box and loom then trim it down to suit, and rescue the steering wheel too
the question is where sells a written off disco, when every I look for parts etc. people are only selling the parts and still I cant find any advertisments online so I would need to locate some insurance fed scrapyards and do a lot of mooching.
I wonder if it would be easier and cheap to find a written of jag? I believe the XF uses the same engine and box?
thanks guys
tom
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Right Guys
As always i am still in search of my perfect house to buy but am getting bored and my wallet is urging me to start a new landy project
so far the ideas i have consist of;
buy a 110
strip it
rebuild on new chassis
with a tdv6 or 8
muahahahahaha
does anyone know of anything i should look into or research to make this project a possibility
i would probably have to buy everything i need to do it and then go for it in one go
also tdv6/8 wise, what gearbox can i attach would it be best sticking with a defender one or get an engine with gearbox?
then probably the most awkward part, the loom argghhhhh haha
obviously taking a rangy look would be a right PITA so would it be possible to get a stand alone edu and either buy or make an engine loom to suit?
thanks
tom
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Hi guys
I'm running an event to raise money for mountain rescue and my local independent parts dealer has decided to send me a 110 CSW to use for the duration of the 4 day event
I havnt any access to the vehicle yet but need to get some signs made up to go in the rear windows
I.e the ones on the side of the boot space
Could anyone help me with some dimensions of the glass please do I know how big to make the signs so they are visable from the outside
Thanks
Tom
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Have a Word with Ben at IDM Engineering
Nice local family firm and they are in the land rover world too
www.idmengineering.co.uk
Tom
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dry ice blasters are the way forward, no mess and great for working on hot days
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there are a couple of factors to consider when buying a landy
yes look for rust and any patches already on the chassis but also look at the rest of its over all condition
i would say that the landy you linked to is a little overpriced even with the galvanised chassis but the main thing you should look for is that it is standard.
if you are using this as a car and a buisness vehicle then the last thing you want is a lifted vehicle as lifting just causes other components to fail.
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have you thought about using proper traditional rivets?
so countersunk alloy rivet and you just peen over the otherside, a litte time comsuming but once you master using them can be very quick and very satisfying.
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personnally i just send the calipers for all of my vehicles and any i work on over to bigg red, they do an awesome job at a resonable rate and i have never had any issues.
please note i have zero link to the company except being a happioly returning customer
oh and i always get the premium coating, I sent them the brakes on my pick up about 6 years ago and they still look like new (when the mud is cleaned off
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wow thats a bit big!!! sorry should have scaled it down first :s
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i destroyed my pullers and a friends pullers trying to get my drop arm off, i even tried heating it, cutting it, shocking it and swearing my Fjkfsdhgaukl head of at it!!!
so as a result i made this puller, it uses a half inch unc stud bolt and i just replace it with every couple of drop arms i change, as you can see in the picture the bolt is a tad bent, this was thanks to a veeeery stubbon arm on a disco 1 v8 haha
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thanks
i prefer to over engineer things and have them last for ever than engineer them just enough.
i think in total this cost me about £150 although thats not including all my labour and i got some of the materials for free
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Yayyyy after all this time its finally finished (bar the odd paint touch up)
sorry its taken so long, hope you like it guys
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Be very careful grinding the old one off, as too much heat will knaker the lower shaft seal in the steering box and then you will have a leak on your hands
it was an emergency spare when i snapped my gwyn lewis one haha, anyway it lasted 2 years, with lots of abuse, never greased and me wishing it would die so i had a good reason to replace my good failed prop, it also survived a 5000 mile trip to the arctic circle and back.
Defender Triple Wiper Upgrade
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
oh also, sorry to the owner of the white landy mentioned, i didn't want or mean to be rude