Adam001
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Posts posted by Adam001
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If youi tried camping on weston super mare beach, you'd wake up adrift in the bristol channel...LOL.....
Fit a floatation kit and make it a adventure
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Hey,
Yeah checked the codes a few times, all points to that sensor, the wiring was damaged so stripped away the dead part but when testing the wires it was still open circuit so it needs a new sensor. Hopefully that will be all that's wrong
Adam
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thank you for that!! Absolutely hilarious!
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I'm curious...have the track rod ends been properly tested for this application?
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Personally I wouldn't go for the 8274 on a expedition vehicle. You shouldn't need it really, a good low line would be more than good enough, that way you would get a nice bumper and winch with a warranty
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Not sure if my previous post worked so Try this link to a 38 page maintenance manual
www.meritorhvs.com/MeritorHVS_Documents/mm38.pdf
Regards Jonathan
You sir are an absolute star, that manual is very useful
we will be able to get a new ECU during the weekDoes anyone know what type of lamp i need to get before i rip the dash out??
Thanks
Dave
If you have a haynes manual it should say in there which type, halfords little flip book things will probably list it aswell
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Yes I am 100% sure it is code 2-1 assuming that the 2.5 sec flash followed by the 0.5 flash is the start sequence. As I know some ABS ECU only have a single flash start sequence. But neither 2-1 or 1-2-1 appear on any land rover blink code sheets.
So is that a certainty that the ECU has gone?
Thanks
Adam
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That will mean that the bulb is most likely blown or someone has taken it out previously
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unfortunately that's not the problem
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Yeah, read through all that, also indicates that the fault we have shouldn't exist
It's not the normal reseating of the sensors either, wish I could just rip the system out lol
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page cannot be found?
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Hey,
I have come to the point where I have become defeated by the ABS on this car I am working on and could really use some help
Typical story, ABS light always on, after a long time hunting through the internet I managed to find out how to get the ABS light to flash the codes
few details on the car
1994 300tdi Discovery
Wabco ABS ECU - Part number AMR1097 446 044 040 0
diagnostic is taken from the vehicle diagnostic plug not a standalone ABS diagnostic plug
The warning light relay matches the description (wiring colours) of the older Lucas system that uses the standalone plug not that of the vehicle diagnostic plug
I do not understand why it seems to have the wiring types from both systems, however the jumper test does work...kind of...
Following the online guides the ABS system spits out code 2-1 constantly no matter how many times I attempt it (50+ I wouldn't like to think how many times this code has repeated ) and this code does not appear anywhere on the guides, the closest I have found is in the link below, but the ecu doesn't match
Anyone else had this? Really not sure where to go from here, is there a way to 'clear all'!
Adam
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Hey, could you have a quick look at the post above? trying to work through the ABS now.
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Hey,
I am currently helping Lana with her ABS system. It is a bit of a mine field.
The vehicle is a 1994 300tdi but it is fitted with the later Wabco ABS so you use the later vehicle diagnostic plug, however the warning light relay corresponds to the older Lucas system. :S
Either way I got it to spit out codes however all it does is kick out code 2-1, even after clearing. But 2-1 doesn't exist lol....
any ideas? I am confused!
Adam
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My friend has a later TD4 MK1 and his IRD thingymajig and clutch have both failed, car is on around 80k I think
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Really? is it not better to relocate the cone then for the spring to come out, smash into a tyre and cause a blow out??
Very confused as to why any P&P would not like them :s
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Yes but meeting the emissions requirement without a cat is near on impossible with a V8, regardless of regulation. Also I don't see twin cats being cheap either :s
Have now decided to go back to the rover idea haha!
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Yes it is a IVA requirement, I don't want to faf with cats (they wont work as I will have the exhaust exit straight to the side) so will need a pre 92 engine to get around the emissions
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Screw it, i'll just go yank haha
Rover seem inept at making big power unless you throw £5k at them, it's not going in a off roader so angles/water etc aren't really a problem
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hmm going by those figures perhaps I should be looking at going down the yank route...hmmm
Perhaps if not I could convert a older 3.9 to the newer 3.9 serp set-up with the better oil pump
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Cement a big pole in front of it haha
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Hey,
Not technically a land rover, but I am intending to buy a range rover classic for the 3.9 V8 engine for my AC Cobra, the problem I am faced with is it must be pre 1992, to avoid emissions. So that means I am stuck with the 3.9 block...however there are no regulations on what I can do to the engine, so long as the block remains the correct age.
So, begs the question, what can you do to a 3.9 V8 to make it perform much much better, any ideas welcome
Thinking being the same bore a 4.6 crank and pistons might fitDiscuss
Adam
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Yes Salt will absorb the moisture, but to last a year you will need alot of it
Either that or bulk buy silica gel
All in all I doubt you will have any problems, it is only a year
main thing is make sure nobody can steal it!!
New X-Eng anti roll bar
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
How does the locking mechanism work? Otherwise looks a nice product
* Unlocked it will allow 16" of suspension travel without binding or the knuckles inverting.
* Locked it will be apply 4x the roll resistance of a standard defender bar.
* Can be locked and unlocked without the vehicle being level - it will just change state when the torque on the bar is relieved as you drive.
* Can be locked or unlocked in seconds without having to lie under the vehicle or get muddy.