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Posts posted by Adam001
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not bodging....engineering
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Pull your finger out.... Where's the photos???!
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This shows mine fairly clearly.... sorry for the showy picture lol !
I'm updating to a 2.5" exhaust so will modify the outlet to suit
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It's the same as most of their sections.... I would recommend finding a reference point such as a mounting hole on both and cut both pieces square relative to that point
I had the same issue with their C pillar repair sections, the length doesn't make any sense, still works, just a bit odd!
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Ah got you!
Mocal and Aeroquip, you can't go too wrong with their fitting and adapters. Mocal falls down with their coolers (welds are plopplops!) so I tend to swear by aeroquip.
(loving the autocorrect on the forum there!!)
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Hi Dude!
Stay away from the cheap Chinese stuff, it really is terrible, learnt that lesson with some oil gear I bought for an old Peugeot!
try motorsporttools on ebay or here... http://www.motorsport-tools.com/, I've got alot of my stuff from them, good service and reasonably priced.
What's the relocation stuff for? cooler?
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This a fairly generic point from anything made in China. Their government operate in such a way companies there can sell dodgy products worldwide with no repercussions. I'd rather spend 4x the price than have anything from there now.
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Your paying a garage to do the work...but helping out? huh?
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Looks amazing, going to recommend to friends!
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My Dakars are on 12'000 miles and worn down from 16mm to 13mm, with considerable offroad use....so that 10k quote above is rubbish
For a cheap tyre they are well worth the money and I'll happily buy them again
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Cheers for the info guys
Really helpful
Planning to use the second pulley to run the alternator, 10mm belt keeps getting raped on mine!
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Hi everyone!
Could do with some help, fitting a sanden compressor to my 200tdi and want to fabricate up the 2 brackets (ETC8852 and ETC8853) as buying them will be many monies!
Should be able to weld them up pretty easily but could do with some dimensions
Could someone kind, who has the 2 brackets (aircon compressor timing chest bracket, and the fuel pump cover tensioner bracket) grab some dimensions for me?
Looking for 2 dimensions, the diameter of the tensioner mounting stub and the distance from the timing chest M10 holes to the front of the standard bracket (so I know how far forward to mount the compressor)
If anyone could help that would be fantastic
Cheers,
Adam
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Moral of the story.....do your research
Glad you got it sorted, didn't struggle with mine, just did a good bout of googling before I started.
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Do you need 11 seats? I removed my rear benches and now say it's a 5 seater, Or swap to 2 inward or forward facing seats and make it a 7 seat etc etc
1. NFU or Adrian flux?
2. Remove the middle front seat (unless you really need it).
Cheers
Peter
He has 11 seats...sounds like he already has
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Is there a general consensus on who's chassis are best I looked at prices and they were roughly the same
For me I went Marslands, primarily because they stock the chassis. Richards and Designa have between 5 and 10 weeks leadtime...really in this age, that's just terrible management and they need to up their game. The marsland chassis is a nice bit of kit, few minor upgrades and no crazy jacking apart of the chassis for the crossmember...it just fits
Cost wise... For all the chassis, bolts, suspension bits (chassis, new shocks and springs, turrets, mounts, seals and hundreds of bolts) I have spent nearly £2100 on rolling chassis related parts
Adam
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Great work, looking to do something very similar with my 110 CSW, currently rebuilding mine from the bottom up in the members area.
Will keep a eye on this one!
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I was about to do a similar thing, got as far as stripping the body panels and notice the chassis was ruined along the top edges, the bits you can't normally see.! So bit the bullet and changed the chassis.
Removing the bulkhead you need to remove the bonnet, wings and roof anyway, so really with your changes you are more than half way there! Removing the bulkhead is the only difficult bodywork part anyway.
Saying all that, if the patches are in minor areas...then it may not be worth it
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Will double check the connections, I did check the resistance across all connections.
They are the original units, just seems a little odd that they will operate normally but when it's all together it won't!
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Hey,
Having a little trouble with a WARN XD9000 winch, when you go to turn it on sometimes it works straight away, other times there is a long delay then it will power up, or it won't at all.
The winch and motor have been rebuilt recently and they are both fine, I have powered each solenoid independently and they switch as they should when activated.
Has anyone heard of this problem?
Thanks
Adam
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Quite clearly didn't have a top on when you first modelled it
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Problem solved...
That link shows which way round they should be fitted
Now to see if it works!
Adam
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Good news, I found some shims amongst some spares (as you do!)
They have a half moon shape cut out of the shim in line with the piston, Which way round should I put them?
They look similar to this, but shaped the same as the 110 rear pads...
Should the half moon be on the trailing edge or leading edge of the pads?
Adam
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Yeah you shouldn't blast the radiator, when i clean mine I still use the pressure washer but from a good distance
Lexus 109 “Koya”
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
Haha thread hijack![:P](//content.invisioncic.com/r226025/emoticons/default_tongue.png)
Nah, only lived here for a year, moved for work in Crewe.