Dave W

Without additional hardware or software modifications it can't be done on either the MS1 or MS2 platform. You could potentially modify the MS-Extra code to run the 2 injector circuits individually. You'd need to look at the current alternating/simultaneous code and modify it based on the state of your fuel map input. You would need to use the simultaneous mode and suppress the firing of one or other of the injector circuits based on the fuel map switching input, it wouldn't be a big modification but would make upgrading more complex as you'd have to rewrite the code every time you upgraded. This will also prevent you using alternating mode which, on petrol at least, can give much smoother running than simultaneous mode because fuel rail pressure is more consistent if only 4 injectors fire at a time. You MAY be able to persuade one of the mainstream developers to include this as an option but realistically I'd have thought it very unlikely they'd release a new version of MS1-Extra at the moment, even MS2-Extra might be pushing it as they're all busy working on MS3. It's probably simpler to either duplicate the output circuits and use a logic level gate to switch the inputs between the CPU and the output circuits or use a relay after the existing output circuits. The changeover may be a bit lumpy, especially from petrol to LPG (no changeover delay). Personally I'd either do the logic level switching and duplicate the output circuits as it seems to me it would be less prone to noise and would increase redundancy between the two systems.

A v2.2 will do the job if you use EDIS for the ignition but a v3 board is the way to go if you don't already have a 2.2 available. The V2.2 board has fewer available connections than v3 board but if you're using EDIS and a PWM idle valve you'll just about get away with a v2.2 board. You can switch maps quite easily assuming that the LPG fuelling takes care of itself, the best way is to use the 12v from the LPG solenoid circuit to switch fuelling and ignition maps and just set the secondary fuelling map to all 0 so it doesn't fire the petrol injectors when running on LPG. You can set up the ignition map specifically for LPG then and set the changeover delay to give as smooth a transition as possible (I use a 0.7second delay normally). I've just installed a 3.9 petrol/LPG setup using a v2.2 board because I happened to have one kicking around as a spare.

Are you sure you haven't caught the computer stalk and activated the overspeed "feature" ? Check the owners handbook, I can't remember exactly how you set it/reset it but I know SWMBO once managed to switch it on by accident on ours

It's Autogas 2000 http://www.autogas.co.uk/

Just an update on this, I've been working on an R reg P38 4.6 Range Rover today with a GEMS system and it has a 36-1 crank trigger. I was sure when you said it that I've come across them as 60-2 as well so maybe there are two different versions. I didn't have time to check the position of the gap relative to TDC though to see if it would be compatible with EDIS.

You're probably best asking on the Megasquirt forums as there's a far more variation there than on here. Fpr my 2p worth, as I've looked at this myself and chatted to the Tartarini tech people in the UK (at their distributors)... There is no real reason why MS cannot run an LPG system direct, the injectors aren't dissimilar from petrol ones and timing of the injection isn't critical. Running a single MS to do both petrol and LPG causes a hardware issue in that you only have two injector channels and, to avoid fuel rail pressure drops, you really need to keep them in two banks of four. You could, however, use some form of switching circuit that allows you to "direct" the injectors you are firing based on the same input that is switching your maps. This could be as simple as a couple of relays but you may find the changeover a bit lumpy as you won't be able to run an overlap period. (Normally you run both fuels for a fraction of a second, particularly changing from petrol to LPG as the LPG feed to the injectors may be empty of gas. You'd probably end up pretty reliant on a closed loop setup for LPG because LPG pressure may not be as constant as a petrol system, meaning more variation in injector opening times as the LPG tank pressure drops. The regulator on the vapouriser helps but I get the impression that the variation is far more marked than you would see on a petrol system. Allowing such a wide lambda compensation may cause you problems as the MS code can be a bit lumpy when you allow it too much freedom, wideband may cope better than narrowband as you can switch target AFRs too (I think). As I say, I have looked at it and pondered it a bit but haven't taken the plunge so it's all conjecture on my part. On the MS forums there will almost certainly be people with real world experience. I've stuck with a single point closed loop system for mine but if you go ahead with it I' be interested to know how you get on as I quite fancy running a Thor 4.0 on MS with LPG.

If you don't want central locking, I've got one of those looms spare, part number on it is YMN000023 Make me an offer if you're interested, it's in good nick with the relay, clips, metal bracket, rubber protective sleeve etc...

Britpart do replacement new backs/squabs that are very good and pretty cheap. They work out cheaper than the retrim kits that the specialists sell. I've just replaced two RRC front seats with a set of those. If you fancy a trip out I have two RRC front seats already mounted on adaptors to allow them to bolt straight onto the Defender seat box. I need them out of the way so not looking for more than, say, 20 quid for the pair. The adaptors spread the load across the seat box, they were manufactured by Foers for the Ibex. The seats are the grey cloth ones from a late RRC with fold down armrest, adjustable lumbar and so on. The biggest drawback is lack of access to the battery box without unbolting the passenger side one although that's not exactly something you do every day anyway. I fitted the seats in 2003 and I can't remember having to unbolt them until I took them out last year as it's still on the same battery (Optima red top so no need to top it up).

How did they test it ? Transmission brakes shouldn't be tested on rollers in the same way as normal brakes.

As western says, towbar electrics are the most likely culprit. Your problem reminds me of a problem I had last year that turned out to be caused by a faulty rear light holder. Occasionally the fuse would blow while driving even when I didn't have any lights switched on but, of course, I'd been using my brakes. occasionally the bulb in one of the light units would move and short it out, if you happened to hit the brakes at the same time it would blow the fuse. I replaced both tail/brake light holders in the end as both weer a loose fit, not had the problem since.

1). Am I doing the right thing here? (I think I know the answer to this one... ) Probably 2). Is there a blindingly obvious reason, that I've missed, for me not to use the ignition all ready on the engine, controlled by the 'squirt? Not really, you can use the OEM crank sensor straight into MS and drive the ignition packs direct. Personally I prefer to make a small "driver box" to contain the actual coil drivers that can be mounted near to the coils. By doing that it reduces the risk of "noise" at the ECU caused when you are switching the coils from the ECU. Mounting the drivers inside the ECU case is messy by comparison and can cause problems with noise in the loom and internal to the ECU due to the current fluctuations when switching coils. 3). What injectors for the LPG should I be looking at? Who's got what, where from, and why? As it's a GEMS unit I wouldn't bother with a sequential injection style LPG but, instead use a single point one. I use Tartarini for mine, in no small part because the UK distributor is 30 mins down the road and they've been extremely helpful in the past. i also have the cable and PC app that lets me plug into the LPG ECU and adjust it if needed. 4). Will this system work with the brain of the ZF 'box? Is there anything that I need to know about this bit? This is where things can get complicated. The simplest solution (if not the cheapest) is to use an aftermarket ECU for the gearbox. The Compushift ECU from Maddison4x4 (re-sold by Ashcrofts and Devon 4x4 as well) will allow you to run and program the gearbox fairly easily. If you're on a tight budget you may be as well to put a hydraulic version of the gearbox in. I've not looked recently to see what the current status of the gearbox ECU from Bowling and Grippo is at the moment. 5). What the f have I let myself in for? As long as you're methodical in your approach and don't over complicate things you shouldn't have any major problems. It can seem a bit daunting when you first get started but, at the end of the day, it's all simple enough if you take it one step at a time. MS3 is still a bit "cutting edge" at the moment but MS1 and MS2 will both handle everything you need quite happily. If you go with MS2 you can control the OEM idle air valve direct and the closed loop idel control seems to work pretty well on the later code versions. Personally though I prefer to stick with the Volvo air valve as it's cheap to buy new and can be run with any version of the MS hardware. MS1 is also cheaper than MS2 and without the stepper valve to control you have enough spare outputs on the standard DB37 connector to drive the coil packs through it (assuming you use a remote driver box). I've found the simplest way of switching maps when you go onto LPG is to use the solenoid output from the LPG ECU and configure the MS hardware to trigger the secondary fuel and ignition maps when you get 12v at the input. I then set this up with a 0.4 second changeover time. Most of the above assumes you are using an independent LPG system/ECU, I've not tried driving LPG iojectors direct with MS myself as the LPG ECUs always seem to be such a minor part of the outlay. I have spoken to the tech guys at Autogas 2000 about driving a Tartarini injector system in the past and there's no real reason why it wouldn't work... just not something I've tried myself.

Glad you got it sorted at last. At least 3 people told you what the problem was over 2 weeks ago, there's a lesson to be learnt there...

I'm in the process of fitting a JVC KD-R901 unit into mine after fitting the same one to Pam's 90 and being very impressed with it, especially the iPhone connectivity via bluetooth and the DAB unit. Nexxia can provide just about everything you need to connect it up including adaptors for the steering controls and, if you haven't got the Alpine head unit, adaptors for the door amplifiers. Lots of info on their web site... http://www.nexxia.co.uk/ For an ex Clarion head unit with Harmon Kardon amplifiers )grey and pink connector blocks) you'll need either this lead... http://www.nexxia.co.uk/product.asp?product_code=NX-PC3-09S or this one... http://www.nexxia.co.uk/product.asp?product_code=PC3-09 Depending on the number of outputs on your new unit. Note it has a PCB built into the leads that adjusts the levels to suit the door amplifiers. One of these to adapt the aerial... http://www.nexxia.co.uk/product.asp?product_code=PC5-27 This to fill the holes in the dash... http://www.nexxia.co.uk/product.asp?product_code=FP-21-00 Then you'll need to decide if you want to maintain the steering wheel controls and buy the necessary cable/interface if you do. HTH

This shouldn't have any effect on the EDIS, it shouldn't be wired into the fuel pump relay (if it is you have a problem because the fuel pump relay won't activate until the MS gets an RPM signal and you won't get one of those until the EDIS has power !). Unplug the ECU and forget about it and it's plug until you get a spark from the EDIS. Check you have power to the EDIS unit and the coil packs and, most importantly, make sure the power stays there while you are cranking. EDIS needs 12v, earth and a VR sensor to work, the coils need 12v and a connection to EDIS, nothing more is needed to get a spark.

I take it this is a permanent export then rather than a 12 month temporary export ?

As has been said already, what you can do with the container and how much it costs depends on your shipping agents at both ends. When we've shipped vehicles over there and back we've always "packed" them ourselves for the trip out, usually while the lorry driver sits in his cab. It's cheaper that way anyway and it's a lot less nerve wracking than dropping the vehicle off in a car park and hoping it comes out of a container at the other end ! You can pretty much do anything you like although the container owners don't really like you nailing batons to the floor with 6 inch nails... There is a RORO ferry to Australia that might be an option for a single vehicle although it takes longer to get there and security of items not bolted down can be a problem. I know it visits a lot of countries apart from the UK, not sure if it visits Spain though. 30ft containers are rare but available however you'll probably pay the same as a 40ft. Last time we shipped we added the length of all 3 vehicles together and came to 40'6" so tried to get a 45' container (also very rare but they do exist) but the surcharge was extortionate so in the end it came down to removing bumpers and ensuring the vehicles were interlocked a bit. A good shipping agent is worth his weight in gold BTW, choosing the wrong agent at this end last time cost us dear as his incompetence led to delays and problems with customs. Fortunately the shipping agent we found to handle the Australian end was an absolute star and dug us out of the hole the UK agent had left us in. If we do it again we'll use the Australian agent to handle everything and the container would go by rail to the docks, not road.

38mm is correct, the only caveat I would add is that the Merlin one has too large a range IME. You have to set it to come on when the temp is very hot in order for it to turn off before the thermostat closes. Not really a problem for a road motor but I prefer the fans to come on earlier off road when cooling may already be compromised by mud. As an alternative you could get one of these... http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/in-line-temp-sender-housingair-bleeddrain-38mm-int38-1171-p.asp With an M14x1.5 thread to give you a choice of 4 different temp range switches. With a suitable switch such as... http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/fan-switch-9785c-m14-x-15-fansw4-3530-p.asp They do different switches with different switching ranges. Significantly cheaper than the Merlin one too.

UK distributor is Marix UK... http://www.marixuk.com/ I'm sure they will be able to put you in touch with a local reseller.

3.5 Hotwire was mainly fitted to Discoveries, I don't think the RRC ever had 3.5 hotwire as they moved straight from 3.5 Flapper to 3.9 hotwire. The Disco stuck with the 3.5 when the RRC was running 3.9, hence the 3.5 Hotwire variant for Discos until they finally saw sense and upgraded the Disco V8 to 3.9 which, I think, coincided with the "300" facelift. The "poor relation" treatment of the Disco was also why the earlier 3.5 Discos were still running Carbs long after the civilised world had moved onto EFi. 4.0 GEMS was fitted to P38s originally. This was later replaced with the 4.0 Thor in the P38 which was also fitted to the Disco II to replace the 3.9 Hotwire fitted to the later Disco 1. The 4.0 is actually the same displacement as the 3.9 but was called 4.0 for marketing purposes and to distinguish it from the RRC/Disco 3.9.

I would concentrate on the EDIS first, with the MS disconnected (assuming the EDIS still has power !) it should fire the ignition quite happily at 10 BTDC. If it's not doing that then you have a problem with the EDIS setup, check the VR sensor is connected the correct way around (reverse the wires and see if you get a spark). Check the power and earths, beyond that it doesn't need much else for EDIS to run the ignition. Once you have the EDIS firing you can then connect the MS and worry about the fuelling

Figured it out in the end. If anyone else has the same problem, the later lock uses a much longer barrel. As a result, the release/plunger hole is now inside the mechanism and can be operated through the slot where the central locking lever comes through at the top of the mechanism. Having finally released the lock barrel it's clear that the old style barrel isn't going to fit Here's a pic, new style on the right.

FF - yep you're right GEMS is 60-2 not 36-1, must be past my bed time HFH - You're method for finding TDC seems about as good as you'll get, maybe you'd get slightly better with a dial gauge but probably not much. Is it practical to rotate the toothed wheel to the correct position ? At the end of the day, once you have the toothed wheel set up correctly there's not really much reason to have any timing marks ?

Are you using the GEMS OEM crank sensor ? If so you just need to know what position the missing tooth is in on a standard GEMS setup and there's no need to have a mark anywhere else. I have it written down somewhere from the last GEMS MS install I did. As it's GEMS rather than Thor you should even be able to run EDIS off the OEM sensor if you really feel it necessary. Another possibility, if you're using an external timing wheel, is to use a 2 channel scope with a channel on each sensor, that way you can compare the position of the external wheel relative to the OEM one. Obviously this all assumes the GEMS flywheel is still fitted.

I'm fitting a take off tail door to a 90 hardtop to replace the current old 2 part door that has rotted away, as they do. It's all ready to fit apart from the fact that the door didn't come with a key and now I come to fit a new barrel I can't figure out how on earth you're supposed to change the barrel ? According to the 02 manual there is supposed to be a "plunger" to depress in the side of the casing but the 06 one I have hasn't got a hole in it. Has anyone done this or have any ideas ? I'd like to use the old barrel so a single key will unlock any of the 3 doors.

I've done it in the past, there's a knack to it but getting the old one out isn't too difficult, just a case of pushing it outwards while you prise the rubber with a suitable tool. You can buy a reasonable tool for the job from Frost Autos. You have to "bend" the glass slightly as it comes out so broken windscreens are a LOT easier to remove. Getting the new one in is done using a piece of rope to pull the seal through. In simple terms you put the glass in the rubber, feed the rope into the gap where the frame will go, rest the screen against the frame on the outside and then pull the rope from the inside. The rope pulls the rubber seal in. Easy if you've done it a few times. Having said that, I prefer to pay someone else to do it because even professionals can crack the glass form time to time. If you pay for someone else to do it and it cracks as they put it in or develops a stress fracture a week later or turns out o have a faulty heated element you get a free replacement fitted.