Dave W

Usually it's a sign that the alternator diode pack has died. Disconnect the small brown/yellow wire from the alternator, if the light goes out then its a faulty diode pack. The diode pack is inside the alternator, it can be repaired/replaced but it's normally cheaper to get a replacement alternator.

That and snapping one of the valves off against a rock is precisely why I now have "mechanical" bead locks They do make seating the bead really easy though... when you do finally manage to persuade the bloody things to go in properly !

They're a fair way from Broken Hill (Mad Max II was filmed around there) but you could be right The Mad Max II car is still running BTW, the owner of the Silverton Hotel where the filming was based bought it after the filming was done. It's a bitch to start - it runs on LPG, sounds sweet though. You can see it in the pics on the front page of their web site along with a list of the other films based there. http://www.silverton.org.au/hotel.htm

Can't find that item number ? If you don't want to spend a lot of time with wiring diagrams and splicing looms together then the TD5 loom isn't an option. A LHD 300 loom will kind of fit but, again, will need to be modified. The feeds to the wings (indicators especially) will need to be swapped around and I have a feeling the chassis loom connectors are on the same side on a LHD as they are on a RHD so if you simply turn the loom over you'll have to sort that out too which may not be an easy job. Perhaps someone with a LHD could confirm that either way.

Yep, P38 alloys are a none starter, I bought a set of slight used MTs on P38 alloys (the alloys were to be returned). I spent a few hours trying to break the bead with the tyrepliers and eventually gave up and took them to a mates garage and used his tyre changing machine. In fairness to the tyrepliers, the commercial tyre changing machine really struggled with them. The bead breaker took about 10 attempts per tyre per side to break the bead and then the rotating/lifting part that's supposed to pull the tyre off the rim kept stalling with the effort, even with as much lube as we could slop on and us "assisting" with tyre levers ! It took three of us and the commercial tyre machine to get them off in the end. Those P38 alloys may claim to be 16" but I reckon they are closer to 17" and the well in them is only a few mm deep, I have strict instructions that if I ever have to do that job again I need to take them to KwikFit and let them break their machines trying to remove them

The ratchet strap technique works on my beadlocks although it can take a couple of attempts. The design of the wheel inner can make a big difference though. I also find a small 1 inch strap works better than my trailer tie down straps. I'll give the butane thing a go myself next time, it's another option in the field then. For general tyre bead breaking/levers etc... I use a Tyreplier kit and I always have it with me on events so I can carry out repairs as needed. That combined with a sticky string kit means you can keep going pretty much whatever happens to your tyres. We've even managed to seal a tyre with a 2 inch gash on the sidewall with sticky string... it did take quite a lot of string though

To make the job easier you could out a TD5 dash in, other than that (and needing somewhere to put the under seat fuse box) you'll need to make up a harness for the heater motor at both ends (connectors are different on a TD5). You'll need to buy a couple of wing harnesses and you'll either need to replace the chassis harness of graft the 300TDi connectors onto the TD5 loom. The bulkhead on a TD5 is different, you may need to modify yours to get the loom through the bulkhead although you may be able to use the existing holes. When I did mine I wanted to leave the TD5 loom available should I ever need/want to fit a TD5 in to replace the V8/LPG, if you took a more "damaging" approach and just hack away at the TD5 loom you can probably simplify things a bit. I bought a sacrificial TD5 engine loom and adapted that for the V8 so that everything just plugged in to the TD5 bulkhead loom. It's a lot of work although in the long term I'd say the TD5 loom is a better loom than the 300TDi, it's great to be able to remove a wing without having to disconnect all the wires, for instance. If, however, you want to leave your dash as it is and don't fancy spending a few days tracing and linking through the circuits that the immobiliser/alarm and the TD5 ECU are expected to link up, you're probably best trying to get a 300TDi loom.

A ratchet strap around the centre of the tyre is a more predictable method of seating the bead, although not as much fun obviously

The one in the pic is like a standard NAS rear door, I have one on the back of my challenge truck. Easier to make one out of a normal tailgate than a rear door as the only differences between them are the holes for the side hinges and the hole for the lift up handle to come through for the lock.

As above, +12v is normal but best to check with the supplier first I switch mine of the LPG solenoid circuit so when the LPG is activated it changes to a zero'd out fuelling ,map and a different spark map. You can then fine tune the changeover time in MS to give a smooth switchover. I leave the fuel pump running so the change from LPG to petrol is seamless but you could possibly turn it off if you feel it will help extend it's life although immersed fuel pumps seem to last forever anyway.

There are two different regulations that will have some (probably minor) effect on us. The first is the banning of some oils within the compound (or the manufacturing process) meaning that all tyres sold or imported into the EU will need a mark to show they are OK. The second is the grading of the noise levels. From my little knowledge of it it would seem it's simply going to be a noise level code, kind of like the speed rating, but there's no limits being imposed as such. A lot of the tyre manufacturers are geared up for it already although there are rumours that some US based manufacturing may be withdrawn from the EU. I spoke to the people on the Marix stand at Driffield and they said all their range would meet the new regs and they have tyres in most of the more aggressive patterns with a Simex lookalike etc... http://www.marixuk.com/ Not heard anything on the grapevine about Simex but I'd assume that the EU market is a big enough share of their business for them to make any changes necessary to conform. It'll be the US manufacturers where the EU is a tiny part of their sales that may decide to withdraw some patterns/sizes.

As far as I am aware if it has a G on the end of the part number it's a genuine/OEM part (G = Genuine) in some cases within the Britpart catalogue you get the choice.

I was surprised the guy driving didn't know enough to say he was just shifting the motor for a friend as a favour, he obviously wasn't aware of the tacho thing. If i was pulled towing a motor I'd make it absolutely clear from the start that it was purely a private/hobby thing. On the other hand as it turned out he wasn't aware of the requirement to pass a driving test either so I guess the nuances of commercial towing law were a bit low on his radar

It's normally done from the inside of the vehicle with the windscreen and seal resting on the outside to start off with. You then use the string to pull the seal through... at least that's the theory. For what it costs to get a screen fitted professionally by one of the mobile guys I wouldn't bother doing it myself unless absolutely necessary. Not only do you get the job done but if the screen cracks when they do it you get a new screen FOC

Not sure about fouling - not a problem on a 98 so can't see why it would foul on an earlier one. I have a Puma bonnet on a 1990 Defender too. The one major difference is the bonnet prop. The easy solution is to convert to the later prop and brackets. To fit the earlier scissor or stick type props will require some modifications to the bonnet.

Mine has the wiring for the second pair going into the harness... never found where they come out though as they're not at the back of the motor ! I ended up tapping into them and running new wires although one day I hope to find where the harness ones go

Replace the battery with a sealed one (Odyssey, for example) then fill the holes up ? On the TD5s the ECU is under the driver's seat it doesn't go in the battery box.

The simplest to find is the cigar lighter socket feed, it's ignition switched and is fed via a 20A fuse. Assuming, like me, you only use the socket for charging/powering small accessories that'll be find to take the extra combined, say, 5 amps from an ARB/CB setup. If you don't have a heated windscreen then the heated windscreen terminal in the under seat fuse box is a good place to take the power feed from for the compressor.

How much power do you need from it ?

EDIS-8 does have a suitable tach signal on pin 2, as already stated, it works fine on my EDIS-8/LPG installation.

Just use the tach output on the EDIS unit - pin 2 sounds right I'd use the EDIS tach rather than the MJ simply because it gives you a get you home option if the MJ fails.

It might be worth taking the RPM pulse from the EDIS unit output rather than via diodes etc... works fine on my Tartarini LPG system.

Oh, sometimes the ZF auto output shaft only has splines for half it's length, this is fine for a BW transfer box but for an LT230 you need full length splines. The output shaft is easy to swap over though and not expensive to get hold of if you do need one.

They're all the same overall length although the BW front output housing is shorter so uses a longer front propshaft.

A 3.9 auto needs a 1.6 transfer box to pull 35s comfortably at motorway cruise speeds. Any higher and you need to keep kicking it down on slight inclines. The RV8s don't really have much below 2000 RPM so you need to cruise at around 2500 or above at 70 Your 90 TB is probably 1.4 so the 3.9 will just about pull it but it'll be heavy on fuel if you're doing any long distance work. The Range Rover will have a 1.2 in it which is fine on 205r16s but as soon as you start going bigger it'll start to be ungainly to drive.