soutie
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Posts posted by soutie
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Not sure if anybody else had spotted the photos and article in the Telegraph on the new defender.
My only comment is what are they going to call the new utility vehicle that replaces the Defender as the new Defender will be a poser mobile and not a vehicle used by the working classes.
http://www.telegraph...r-Defender.html
http://www.telegraph...n-pictures.html
Peter
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Western, the clutch and fork where fitted in 2006. This whole episode started off when I noticed that there was fluid dripping out the bell housing drain hole. I have replaced the slave and master in about 2008 and they took about ten minutes to bleed, so was expecting the same.
Looking at the bell housing the slave cylinder push rod extends out about 5mm when the slave cylinder is taken off.
Peter
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Western thanks for your replies, I have the bleed screw at the highest point. After trying for at least three hours to bleed the system I am now starting to suspect that the clutch fork has been punched through. I goes to show when you ask for a re-enforced clutch fork from you garage you need to see it. I did check the master cylinder and the pipe work are they are not leaking.
Peter
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I removed the slave cylinder to see if it was leaking then after attempting to bleed it with the aid of the wife pumping and lifting the pedal back up, then with the aid of the air bleeding system and lastly with the wife I gave up as the pedal would still stay down.
I then removed the slave cylinder for the second time. I checked that the rod that the slave cylinder pushes on is attached to the clutch fork and it still attached. However when measuring up the slave cylinder next to the rod, one can see that it does not push the slave cylinder piston back but has it at it furthest point of travel. i.e if fluid went into the slave cylinder it can't push the rod out any further.
Does this mean that the clutch has gone as I would expect the clutch fork to be hinged some how and pushing the rod backwards. This then pressurises the system and means that the pedal comes back once one has depressed it, which my system is clearly not doing?
Peter
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I have eventually got round to fitting the new pipe between the slave and flexi pipe, plus bolted the new slave in. However now on bleeding the system the clutch pedal goes to the floor and does not return.
I have a 300tdi clutch pedal box fitted with the spring that is supposed to help the clutch pedal weight. I was using a air pressure bleeder and the fluid had no bubbles in in when I had finished bleeding the slave.
I have done a google search and it has through up a couple of idea.
1. I can't find a fluid leak so I have discounted that.
2. The Google suggests that the slave could be leaking - but I can't see any fluid down there. I will remove it to check further.
3. Google does not state anything about a spring to return the 300tdi clutch pedal. Is there a spring or is only the pressure of the hydraulic system?
Are there any other suggestions on what else to check?
I will check to see if the slave rod is still attached to the fork with that fiddly black clip, but should I be checking anything else? Should I also look at how I have adjusted the clutch master cylinder push rod?
Peter
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I did slot the 1/2 inch spanner and it still slipped. I ended up taken undoing the top joint.
Once off I tried filing two good flats and then hammer a 12mm spanner on to them and it still slipped. I eventually did get it undone with my biggest shifting spanner but as the bottom nut is beyond repair I will have to replace it.
Peter
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Got round to changing the slave cylinder yesterday. It appears that who ever did it last has rounded off the nut where the clutch pipe goes into the slave cylinder. I have tried 13mm and then 1/2 inch spanners and all slip.
Rather than destroy the nut with a vice grip, could I take my 1/2 inch spanner and using and angle grinder put a slit into the ring end. Would this give better grip to undo the clutch pipe.
I have done a goggle search and found that the offending articles part number is NRC9595. Is it better to order one now in case I destroy it?
Peter
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I have a 200 tdi 110 which clutch slave cylinder went last weekend. I used a well know parts supplier and bought Lucas slave and master cylinders marked with a G after the part number. The parts arrived yesterday and they are in a TRW box. The master cylinder came with instructions marked TRW and lucas.I did an internet search and found that TRW had purchased Lucas.
Has anybody had experienced using these parts and what have they been like. My last slave and master where in a green Lucas box. Has this changed due to Lucas been taken over by TRW?
Peter
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We did think of googling vehicle storage, but wanted personal recommendations as they a good indication of the quality of service.
Thanks for the replies.
Regards
Peter
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A school mate of mine who lives on a French department in the Indian Ocean, has asked who and where could he store his 110 in the South West of England? He is currently using a garage in the South West of France, who keep the battery charged etc. so when he come out to Europe on Holiday he can pick it up and use it. He would rather have the vehicle located in the UK as myself and another school mate live here, so we can holiday together with our families.
Has anybody got any recommendation on who could provide this service and what the fees would be?
Regards
Peter
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For filling my axles and gearboxes I bought two cheap £12 Lidl garden sprayers. | use one for ATF and the other for EP90. I have had them for three or four years and they have never let me down when refilling the gearbox, transfer box or axles. The bonus is that I don't get oil all over my arms as I used to with those bottles. I have never had a problem with getting pressure and flow with them, even with EP90 in the winter.
What I have done is drill a hole in two synthetic corks, make sure the instead of the holes is clean and then use these as stoppers on the end of the fillers so that they do not get crud in them when they are being stored.
Peter
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On the way to work this morning and when pulling onto the motorway dropped out of overdrive to give it a bit of welly to join the traffic and lots of revving and no drive in 5th. Managed to pull over and changed down into 4th and rejoin the flow.
Basically I have 1st to 4th, reverse but no drive in 5th. Overdrive works fine on 3rd and 4th.
Has anybody any idea as to its cause? I know I will have to get the box out, but wondered if it is a paying somebody else job, or could I attempt it type of job?
Vehicle is a 1989 110 with lt77 and GKN overdrive.
Thanks
Peter
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Turbocharger, did you get one? If you did can we have your opinion please?
Thanks
Peter
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In terms of the G-Wagon's, they have now replaced the land Rovers in the Australian army. It does show that there is a place for live axle, diff lock as standard light truck for military operations.
It is a pity that land Rover is being displaced in this market.
See link below.
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I don't see the big issue with independant suspension. In military circles the US has just signed an order valued at $2.3 billion for 4,296 M-ATVs, including spare parts and support services with Oshkosh. These vehicles use Oshkosh's TAK-4 independent suspension system as fitted to these plus more than 10,000 Medium Tactical Vehicle Replacements (MTVRs) supplied to the Marines and Seabees. This follows on from them using independent suspension on their Humvees.
Oshkosh's proprietary TAK-4 independent suspension system, provides 16” of wheel travel, and reduces pitch, bump steer, and traction hop. They are also retrofitting existing beam axled vehicles with this suspension system.
Now if the new defender has this kind of wheel travel, uses common parts and reduces the cost to us as consumer I would welcome it. However we will have to wait and see.
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I got round to replacing the brake master cylinder today. Brake pipes and nuts holding the master to the servo were fine, but I had to use land rover no. 1 tool to persuade the master cylinder to budge. The leak had caused some rust on the body of both the master and servo and thus had to use gentle persuasion to get them apart.
I cleaned up the servo with some wet and dry paper and brake cleaner and then gave it a liberal does of wd40 before putting on the new servo.
I left the nuts on the brake pipes a bit loose so I could prime the master cylinder using the brake pedal. This did force me to pressure wash the engine bay a bit later on.
Using a pressure bleeder I bled the brakes and have now got brakes that are nice and firm and don't leak. In doing this job I did notice that the casting for the master cylinder is not all flush but is such that it will let brake fluid leak out if the seals do go.
Question: I got bubbles from all brakes but the most from the right hand front and rear. Is this normal?
Cheers
Peter
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Thanks for the replys. I will post up later how I how I went about it.
Peter
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I came home to day to find a wet patch on the drive under my G reg 110. On investigation it appears that there is a leak between the brake master and servo.
Is this simply replace a seal job or will it be a bit more complex?
Peter
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Here are photo's of the tray plus filter.
The pump was mounted under the bonnet as it was bought to work with a heat exchange unit for a shower. The shower was once, but the pump and the filter on most days of the trip. I used brass push fit hose connectors which where used to connect the pump to the pipe we put in the jerry cans and to the filter.
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Richard
I will post up photo's on Thursday evening.
Peter
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Martin
The system we used when I travelled from The UK to SA was as follows. I had a tray made up that took six jerry cans. I has a flojet demand pump mounted under the bonnet and a nature pure ultrafine water filter mounted in the vehicle.
We used the nature pure filter to filter water for five to six people a day all the way through Tunsia, Lybia, Egypt and the start of Sudan and then again from Ethopia onwards. We stopped filtering water and drank what the locals drank in Sudan without getting ill. One member of our party when reaching Kartoum went back on to bottled water and got an upset guts when those of us who stayed on the Nile water were fine.
It became a ritual that when parked up for the night we would then filter enough water for everybody for the next day. At one stage we where going through five to six litres of water per person per day for drinking.
http://www.generalecologyeurope.com/naturepure.html#specs
The tray fitted on the foor where the second row of seats is in the 110. In fact it attached to the seats mountings. Each jerry can had its own compartment like a box for carrying wine bottles. Each compartment was lined with felt so that the jerry cans would not rub. We stored 5 water and one empty fuel can this way. We used to use a ratchet strap to tie them down to the tray. The advantage of loose Bristish army black plastic water jerry cans is that you can carry them to the water source and then back again to your vehicle. This was useful in Tunsia and Lybia. The other good thing is that you can swop them around so that the full ones are always in the centre of the vehicle.
If you want I can take photo's of the tray and post them.
A link to the website that tracked our progress is here.
http://www.jepps-overland.co.uk/
Peter
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I used the avon range master 8 ply when overlanding from the Uk to South Africa. Only down side was using tubes which did mean puntures. I did change to BFG in South Africa after suffering more punctures only to have shreds taken out of them in Namibia. This was the same as friends who were with us in Ethiopia. When camping in Sudan we met a lot of travelers coming up Africa who had BFG AT's on who had to change them in Sudan after the Kenyan and Ethiopian roads had ripped them to shreds.
I think they are good tyres but a bit soft.
By the way the Avon's coped in the Sarah desert quite well when in both Tunsia and Lybia.
Peter
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Martin
I have used my 110 to go from Somerset to Cape Town and the set up I had was double shocks at the back using De Carbon dampers with Hicap springs at the back. After 25000 miles across Africa the shocks where still good as new. I did have to replace one, but that was due to a rock bending it rather than it wearing out. I did meet quite a few South Africa in Kenya etc who had added the 130 helper spring that goes inside the main spring. This apparently is a progressive spring that becomes harder the more it is compressed.
I had put double shocks in the front which I would advise against as they almost tore off the spring hangers from the chassis. My front springs were standard CSW. I had these replaced with Bearmac heavy duty in Namibia when the mechanic had to weld the tears up on the spring hangers. My recommendation now would be to put heavy duty springs on the front.
In all getting back to the shocks question. I used the De Carbon's and found them very good. This was highlighted in Sudan where a joint expedition member went through two sets of standard shocks in less than 500 miles where I had no issues. In Khartoum he changed to Manroes and was very happy with them.
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Gigglepin fitted for me a lorry air tank as a reservoir. I have used this numerous times to reseat tyres. The compressor is under the driver seat with the air lines plumbed into the air tank. It has a cut off fitted to the pump like a normal compressor to cut the compressor off when filled to a set pressure. If you want I can take photo's and post them here. I will also post up what pressure the compressor is set to to cut out at.
Pics of new defender in the Telegraph
in International Forum
Posted
It is interesting, as some have stated, that Land rover have had to defend the concept vehicle.
Here is their reply in the Telegraph.
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/motor-shows/los-angeles-auto-show/8896532/LA-Auto-Show-Land-Rover-defends-the-Defender.html
Peter