soutie
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Posts posted by soutie
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I cleaned up the damper and am happy that there is no pitting, so will reuse it. Thanks for all the comments.
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Mike, when I had mine done I had to have the front outriggers replaced, the front dumb irons repaired and the rear cross member replaced. What however had made up my mind that I could have it dipped was the repair patch behind both sides of the gear box crossmember showed that the internal chassis was not in bad condition. Know what other repairs I had done, I thought I could trust the rest of the chassis.
Attached a photo of the b pillars from today. I can't to my untrained eye see any distortion. Also photo from the bulkhead painting from today. This is the wet filler primer over the acid etch after twashing. The streak marks from the galvanising are still visible. Not sure if they will disappear once sanded. If not, they will add character to the vehicle
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Not that I remember. I will take photos and post them tomorrow as I have not progressed to painting yet. House move and my son's sport on both Saturday and Sunday in the winter have got in the way.
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I used Cardiff galvanisers. They picked up and delivered back to Somerset. They did not quibble and were very professional about the whole process. I phoned them and then emailed photo's of all the parts. They then gave me a rough idea of cost. I paid £370 for the chassis, bulkhead, gearbox cross member, sills and pillars and other parts back in 2012.
http://www.cardiffgalvanizers.co.uk/
They have fleet of vehicles and this shows the area they cover.
http://www.cardiffgalvanizers.co.uk/cardiff-galvanizers-fleet
I have attached two photo's so that you can see the quality of what they did.
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Mike, if I did replace it, how do you separate the damper from the pulley and then fit the new one. From my google search and looking at the workshop manual I can't find this mentioned.
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Mike thanks for the reply. I have replaced the seal on the front cover for the crankshaft. The oil that is there in the photo was put there by me to protect the crank shaft from rust as the vehicle is stored in a barn. I will be removing it before I do the timing.
Do you think that the damper rubber is okay?
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In the process of rebuilding my 1989 110 I have come to retime the engine after fitting the reconditioned fuel pump. Looking at the crankshaft pulley the marked TDC as per photo below is out of line on compared to the crankshaft key. Stupid question here, I take it I use the Key as per the manual and ignore the pulley? Thus I should remark the pulley in line with the key and use that mark?
Second question - the manual state inspect the crankshaft pulley damper before refitting. Are the two chunks out of the rubber material acceptable?
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Most kits include the spacer.
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Have a look at this link on Page 11 onwards.
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Simple google search.
The second one seems a better source of info.
http://www.morrisminorforum.com
https://www.morrisminorowners.co.uk/
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As per the title. I am half way through a complete nuts and bolts strip down and rebuild of my 110 with 200 tdi. I want to find out who people recommend for checking the Turbo and repairing if necessary?
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Here is the UK distributors website for planar. I have nothing to do with them and found this via a google search. It seems that they are more expensive than ebay, but carry a 2 year warranty and don't have import tax on them.
https://www.planarheaters.co.uk/
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Not sure if anybody has tried ZircoFlex Form?
It would be interesting to see if it lives up to the spec below as a 300mm x 250mm sheet is £81.60 which is cheaper than the £250 for the genuine part which cracked and broke on the drop of a hat.
http://www.zircotec.com/zircoflex-form/
http://www.fastfoxperformance.com/zircoflex-form/p15781
"It is now possible to create ultra-high performance, structural heatshields, thanks to Zircotec’s newest heatshield, ZircoFlex® FORM. This more rigid, stainless steel heatshield combines Zircotec’s proven ceramic coating protection together with the strength and ability to form structures such as heatshields, boxes and bulkheads. Thanks to its ability to solve multiple heat issues, including both radiant and conductive heat sources with gold and black surface treatments, ZircoFlex® FORM delivers a compelling mix of strength, weight, and structure with heat resistance.
In addition to the heat benefits, initial testing suggests that FORM can also provide acoustic damping, ideal for both longer touring drivers and endurance racers.
•Temperature reductions of up to 88% (when used as an offset heatshield)
•Tested to 900°C (hot side temperature)
•Core of embossed (type304) stainless steel sandwiched between two layers of Zircotec's proprietary ThermoHold® based ceramic thermal barrier material.
•Product Thickness - 1.6mm (+/- 0.2mm)
•Product Weight - 2.9kg/m²
Ease of fitment line-side, with a thin aluminium-backed and ceramic foil that is easily cut and folded to shape, by hand or machine. The metal construction allows the use of mechanical fasteners"
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From Paintman
"LAND ROVER ATLANTIC GREEN LRC726. A traditional single part Synthetic Coach Enamel paint used during 1999 for the Defender 90, 110, 130 Heritage range of Land Rovers. Although Land Rover Atlantic Green LRC726 is normally a special order colour and would need a lead time of around 2 weeks for delivery, we are currently holding a small stock due to popular demand.
Out of pure interest, we have a swatch of Atlantic Green sat on the last Grasmere Green Land Rover. Grasmere Green is a Micatallic colour whilst Atlantic is a flat coat, however, the shade is almost identical"
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It is interesting to read that "For the ‘Mk 2’ LRV, Supacat have taken the rolling chassis and automotive systems from the Land Rover Discovery and adapted them for specialist military applications."
Spec are "permanent 4WD with centre diff. lock Differentials Options including : Front and rear air locking Suspension and axles Front and rear fully independent double wishbone".
I wonder what land rover could do with the Discovery rolling chassis if Supacat have done this?
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Have you checked the tightness of the steering drop arm nut? I had a similar problem travelling across Africa and it turned out that the nut had not been correctly torqued.
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One needs to remember that in African diesel has a higher sulfur content than in Europe which explains dutch-pete's oil change philosophy. As sulfur in diesel fuel contributes to increased acid levels in the engine and causes serious damage on engine and emission control systems. Not too worry about the emission control systems on a 200tdi but the acid wear on the engine.
In South Africa, since Jan 2006, 2 grades of Diesel fuel have been available:
- Standard Grade diesel – 500ppm Sulphur (max) Standard Diesel 500ppm
- Low Sulphur grade diesel – 50ppm Sulphur (max) Low-Sulphur diesel 50ppm
Compared to The UK sulphur content not exceeding 10 parts per million or 0.001% by weight
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Also in the Telegraph this morning.
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As there is only one prop shaft, if the diff lock is not engaged all the drive will go to the output from the transfer box with the least resistance - the one without the propshaft. By engaging the diff lock the power is distributed 50/50 to the two outputs allowing it to drive the one prop shaft.
Hope this helps explain this.
The other way to think of this is the same as an axle. With a differential in it the drive goes to the wheel with the least resistance. In this case as it is the transfer box the drive would go to the output without the propshaft.
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Yes that is the one. Here is a more expansive list.
https://www.gurtech.co.za/locknlube-grease-coupler/
My understanding was the thread size referred to the connection on the grease gun side and not on the nipple side rather on the grease gun size, but I shall wait for a grown up to confirm or correct me.
One thing I have learnt is the Americans call the grease nipple a "Zerk". Not sure if it has anything to do with the word nipple - however it appears it is to do with invented them them. " The term "Zerk" comes from the name of the inventor, Oscar U. Zerk, an employee of the Alemite Corporation in the 1920s. "
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I have you tried upgrading your grease gun with a G Coupler? Although this an expensive upgrade to your grease gun, I swear by it as instead of the grease leaking from around the nipple the coupler makes sure it does not.
https://www.gurtech.co.za/locknlube-grease-coupler/
I came across this as I was searching the well known internet shop for an air grease gun and saw this. I googled it and the reviews on the tractor by net forum persuaded me to give it a go and I don't regret it. However one thing to look out for, is that for £4 extra you can get it with spares kit instead of having to pay for that separately. I have had mine only a couple of months so can't vouch for how long the seals last.
It comes in both M10 and 1/8th BSP so check your grease gun before ordering.
I will take a photo and post it up here when I get time.
Please note I have nothing to do with the company and am just a happy customer.
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I also see that that have this one.
http://www.lidl.co.uk/en/our-offers-2491.htm?action=showDetail&id=39457
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I am currently rebuilding my 110. When I dismantled her I found that on picking up the empty tank that there was a baffle rattling around inside her. Is it feasible to use an angle grinder to open it up and tack the baffle back in place and re-weld the tank - or should I bite the bullet and buy a new one?
it pains me as the tank is a few year old and does not have any rust on it.
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To keep heat out - Foam or Butyl insulation ?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I am currently rebuilding my 1989 110 CSW and have removed the original Closed cell foam with a reflective foil on it one side when stripping her down. Which is better to replace this original insulation on the bulkhead and under the floors especially where the exhaust runs- The closed cell foam with foil on one side or the Butyl with foil on them?
Sound deadening would be a plus - however keeping as much heat out as possible is what I am looking for.
I already have the wright offroad mats that I will be refitting.