soutie
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Posts posted by soutie
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One needs to remember that in African diesel has a higher sulfur content than in Europe which explains dutch-pete's oil change philosophy. As sulfur in diesel fuel contributes to increased acid levels in the engine and causes serious damage on engine and emission control systems. Not too worry about the emission control systems on a 200tdi but the acid wear on the engine.
In South Africa, since Jan 2006, 2 grades of Diesel fuel have been available:
- Standard Grade diesel – 500ppm Sulphur (max) Standard Diesel 500ppm
- Low Sulphur grade diesel – 50ppm Sulphur (max) Low-Sulphur diesel 50ppm
Compared to The UK sulphur content not exceeding 10 parts per million or 0.001% by weight
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Also in the Telegraph this morning.
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As there is only one prop shaft, if the diff lock is not engaged all the drive will go to the output from the transfer box with the least resistance - the one without the propshaft. By engaging the diff lock the power is distributed 50/50 to the two outputs allowing it to drive the one prop shaft.
Hope this helps explain this.
The other way to think of this is the same as an axle. With a differential in it the drive goes to the wheel with the least resistance. In this case as it is the transfer box the drive would go to the output without the propshaft.
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Yes that is the one. Here is a more expansive list.
https://www.gurtech.co.za/locknlube-grease-coupler/
My understanding was the thread size referred to the connection on the grease gun side and not on the nipple side rather on the grease gun size, but I shall wait for a grown up to confirm or correct me.
One thing I have learnt is the Americans call the grease nipple a "Zerk". Not sure if it has anything to do with the word nipple - however it appears it is to do with invented them them. " The term "Zerk" comes from the name of the inventor, Oscar U. Zerk, an employee of the Alemite Corporation in the 1920s. "
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I have you tried upgrading your grease gun with a G Coupler? Although this an expensive upgrade to your grease gun, I swear by it as instead of the grease leaking from around the nipple the coupler makes sure it does not.
https://www.gurtech.co.za/locknlube-grease-coupler/
I came across this as I was searching the well known internet shop for an air grease gun and saw this. I googled it and the reviews on the tractor by net forum persuaded me to give it a go and I don't regret it. However one thing to look out for, is that for £4 extra you can get it with spares kit instead of having to pay for that separately. I have had mine only a couple of months so can't vouch for how long the seals last.
It comes in both M10 and 1/8th BSP so check your grease gun before ordering.
I will take a photo and post it up here when I get time.
Please note I have nothing to do with the company and am just a happy customer.
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I also see that that have this one.
http://www.lidl.co.uk/en/our-offers-2491.htm?action=showDetail&id=39457
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I am currently rebuilding my 110. When I dismantled her I found that on picking up the empty tank that there was a baffle rattling around inside her. Is it feasible to use an angle grinder to open it up and tack the baffle back in place and re-weld the tank - or should I bite the bullet and buy a new one?
it pains me as the tank is a few year old and does not have any rust on it.
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I have bought the kit as at £34 including postage it looks like worth taking a punt on it. After buying off Amazon the price has now gone up to £170. The part number is Sachs 3000950701. Trawling the web that you can get this for £100 from the UK authorised dealer MCS.
Once I receive it I will post pictures. I will not be able to give feedback as to its performance as it will be used in my rebuild which still has many months to run.
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As per the title - is the Sachs clutch kit (LAND ROVER:STC8358) any good - or it it worth the money to pay extra for a Valeo or AP drive line kit? The well know internet mega store has them at a very good price.
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As per the TR6 manual it seems to be the bottom one.
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This might also be of interest as it shows a homemade tool to replace the L354A to remove the pump cover and high pressure filter cover.
It also shows that the Americans run the J and G series overdrive behind some seriously big motors and the bigger sump they use to counter the cooling problems with the oil.
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This is the TR6 overdrive manual which you might also find useful.
http://www.lbcs.ca/media/09_-_Overdrive.pdf
Hope this is of some help.
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I have one Aldi and one Lidl spayers that both cost under a tenner and are both still working fine 4 years later. EP90 in one and ATF in the other. I have bent up the metal pipe to help when I am on my back filling up oil and have two corks which I have drilled a hole in each to act as caps for when not in use.
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Dear all
Thanks for all the replies. It is appreciated. I will take photo's when I get to it and post them here.
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Matt
Thanks for the offer.
I am rebuidling her from the axles up. I stripped her down had a new rear cross member and cross members welded in and then had the chassis galvanized. I have finished redoing the axles and suspension and have converted the rears to disk brakes. It is now the turn of the engine before going on to the gearbox and body.
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I have recently purchased a 15 piece timing tool kit from a well know Internet store and was wondering if any body had a set of instructions on what tool does what?
i.e. has anybody labeled their kit. I know I can sit down with the workshop manual and work out what does what - but thought may be somebody else has already done it? See attached picture where I have made a start.
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Not sure how many people have seen this article. I like the slant they have put on it.
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For my overland trip I fitted a 45lt wheel arch tank. I have a 200tdi 110. I choose the alisport aluminum one. You can get Mantec and other makes. It extended my fuel capacity to 120 lts without adding an extra fuel pump etc.
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Try Mole valley farmers down in Bridgwater or Promain as they both do Teamac Tractor Enamel in green http://www.promain.co.uk/product/Teamac_Metalcote_Tractor_Enamel-id2000. The Bridgwater Mole Valley farmers also has LANDROVER MARINE BLUE in stock.
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Mine was LR Garage fitted. It is also a G reg TD.This is all in the paper work I have from the previous owner.The differences I have seen with a as from new 200 TDI are that mine had reflective installation on the bulkhead with the as new did not.
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Never used the Asda oil. I did pop into Halfords today and noticed that they had their range of oils at £10 for 4 liters.
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I phoned promain and ordered degreaser, the 6630 plus two other paints and paid £7.95 carriage before vat for all items and delivery in two days which was not bad. Phone them you will get a very different carriage price.
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Gordon
Attached an extract from the Sika paint spec which points out you don't need to do this for their paint. If you want, I can send to you the Sika® Galvanized Steel Duplex Guidelines
Technical Data Sheet
DESCRIPTION
Icosit 6630 is a low VOC, one component, high build
polyurethane alkyd coating for steel and galvanized
structures.
USES
* Duplex coating of galvanized masts, towers,
gates etc.
* Maintenance coating for bridges, towers,
masts etc.
* High build corrosion protection for pipelines etc.
* Maintenance/new coating for street furniture.
ADVANTAGES
* Low VOC.
* Very mild solvent, suitable for maintenance painting
over unknown single component paints.
* Direct site application to new hot dip galvanized
structures.
* Excellent colour retention.
* Excellent weathering properties and corrosion
protection.
* Excellent weathering properties.
* Does not require T wash or etch primer primer
when applied to new/weathered galvanized
substrates.
Defender 130 Wheel Wobble
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Have you checked the tightness of the steering drop arm nut? I had a similar problem travelling across Africa and it turned out that the nut had not been correctly torqued.