Paul64

Yes, it was a baptism of fire when I came to the village. I naively thought I would simply make a few phone calls and get connected to gas, electricity water and drains. None of these was true. Electricity took months to connect with new meter box and cabling. No drains at all in the village, so had to have a trench dug from the house to a point 30 metres down the garden where a septic tank had to be dug out and built. No gas hence the woodburner. This still works out far cheaper than any other source of fuel, i.e propane or oil. Water has been by far the biggest issue. Here are the options:- A traditional well, lined with rocks with bucket on a pulley system. This is usually one metre across ad the rocks come from the local river and are lined on top of each other like dry stone walling. Usually you need 4-5 guys to dig and line such a well. A chap is lowered down on a pulley with chair to brush wash the stones. Tradtional well again, but this time with cement rings one metre across and 30 cms deep. This also needs washing but less often. Both the above options can be used with a water pump, although a pump with double motor is required as the water table is approximately 14-18 metres deep. Bore hole. Not very popular in my village as the ground is incredibly hard and rocky. If the drill bit goes on the bore the cost is passed on to the customer. You are warned up front! The other advantage is that this is drilled in a day rather than weeks to dig a traditional well. There are 6 or 7 cooperatives in the village that have small resevoirs in the forest. This is then piped directly to homes with no treatment. These resevoirs are much higher than the grazing land so the water is pure and there is no risk of ground contamination. The problem is that I live in the 10% of the village furthest from the forest with no pipework grid in close vicinity. To although I could opt into a cooperative I would have to pay for and arrange connection. Yes, point taken David. I am still exploring the options but I think chains are essential. I only venture to the nearest town for supplies so 80% of my driving is local and off road. I like to spend a lot of my time in the mountains with the forest ranger. I have noticed that if there is no previous use of a track my LR copes quite well in the snow. However, when there have been two or three previous vehicles using a track and the snow is compressed I struggle to get up even a small incline. The ranger always takes great delight in telling me that his Dacia 4x4 flies up the same track with no chains on. I told him my LR is a lot heavier which he countered by telling me last week he transported a dead dead horse to the same place to feed the odd bear that has decided against hibernation! I drove in Sweden more than 10 years ago within the arctic circle and remember the studded tyres. They were great! Thanks Les, The 2nd picture was taken on a drive up to a volcanic lake. The trees at the top of the road had snow attached to the trees sideways where there was some wind. Very picturesque location at all times of the year. Your welcome over anytime! I was going to be clever and tell you this morning that my LR fires up every morning without a hitch. However, it dipped to -24oC lat night and she struggled a bit this morning. When she di get going there were some very strange noises coming from the engine compartment! I also remember a REME captain talking about oil sludging at low temps being a problem when he was in Bosnia years ago? I know my cousin David who is joining my business in April is looking for a webasto. I think I will start looking at block heaters as a starting point.

Hi, I thought I would give you an update as to what is happening here in Transylvania. Its freeeezing! Winter has truly set in and has come as a bit of a surprise to me. When living in the UK, there would be cold snaps maybe with snow, but you can always guarantee within a few days things would warm up and then the slush would take over. Here in Ojdula we have been averaging temperatures as low as -15 to -20oC every night. This is ongoing and it really changes the way you live from day to day. When starting the Land Rover in the morning I have to scrape the inside of the windows as much as the outside. A period of at least 5 minutes warm up is essential and running the engine at full revs when this cold I know really isn't a good idea. I have 75% antifreeze to 25% water too, just to make sure the pipes remain intact. As you all know from a recent thread on here I have had to change one of my two batteries too. Although it is not charging above 13.6V it seems to be enough to keep it going without any top up overnight. I have just bought a rad muff which I will put on this week. I keep hoping it will warm up for a day so I dare take my gloves off to fit it! I am also looking out for snow chains which will be durable enough to take the weight of the Land Rover when running over the occasional protruding rocks. She runs quite well in fresh snow with the mud terrains on, but have noticed that she will slip about a bit on compressed snow when other vehicles have used the same route. I was thinking that it would be better to run the chains on my 7.50x16 AT's rather than MT's? Any opinions on that? As mentioned in previous posts, a lot of the work and preparation during the fairer weather seasons is geared toward the harshest of seasons, the winter. Only now am I grasping this concept of good winter preparation, because it really could be a matter of life and death. When I first came here I thought it would simply be a case of calling the gas company to get connected and the same with water. Oh, how wrong I was! No gas supply in the village and no mains water. Everyone uses wood here, and the earlier in the year you buy your wood the cheaper it is. First you contact the supplier, then the wood is supplied to you by weight. You then need to arrange a horse and cart with one of the villagers. The cart is weighed before loading, then is weighed again when fully loaded, then you simply pay for the weight of the wood. The wood is usually supplied in one metre lengths, which then need to be reduced in size again. You then need to call another villager to come to your place with a portable circular saw to cut the metre round lengths to approximately 30cms long which then need reducing again to thin or tick chunks depending on the purpose of use. This reliance on each other in the village could be a subject matter for a whole new post, but suffice it to say, I think this one factor alone promotes a very healthy, socially orientated and respectful community, that could teach us a lot in the west. Here where living conditions can be harsh are dealt with by a mutually cooperative spirit to get through this together. In a sense life is taken much more seriously as the consequences for not doing so could be ultimate and harsh. Here is my neighbour Zsolt Vitalyos cutting wood Quality of wood is also a factor to consider when buying. The harder the wood the slower it burns. Then you have to decide how thick the pieces of wood need to be. For faster burning especially when cooking smaller pieces are better. For overnight burning to keep the cold out of the house, thicker and bigger is better. Earlier this year I had to make a decision as to how my heating was to be delivered to my house. Central heating or traditional stoves? I have the use of both at the moment. The place where I am staying at the moment because my house has no water has a traditional wood burner with hot plate for cooking. The burner is surrounded with bricks and then thick tiles which retain the heat overnight. I find this system very efficient. The downside is that they tend to take up a lot of space and you need one in each room. So I have opted for a wood burning stove which is located in my garage which has a system of water pipes surrounding it. This water after being heated is then pumped around the house to radiators. It also heats the water to a water tank in the bathroom for the shower. This tank can also be heated with electricity, so no need to light a fire in the summer. The common name for this is a 'hybrid system'. The heating system is closed and combined water with antifreeze. I still do not have a water supply, so will have to consider a bore hole very soon! This is a pity as I have my new kitchen floor down, so if I had water I could move in permanently.

Thanks both for the extra info. I have just ordered a new solenoid and pump, although I can't see it getting here before x-mas. At least its running at the moment, although stopping tends to attract the attention of the villagers! Cheers, Paul

Hi Ralph, my cousin mentioned the solenoid earlier and I have just been having a look at it. It looks a pig to remove as there is so little room to get a spanner in there! Thanks for the information. Cheers, Paul

Hi, Another electrical problem has reared itself and I would be grateful for any ideas as to what it may be. About 3 days ago, when I turned the ignition off and removed the key the engine was still running. It happened intermittently and when i replaced they key it would eventually turn off. However, this has rapidly become worse and now I am having to stall the engine to stop it. Please help! Cheers, Paul

Thanks Ralph. Both terminate at the gearbox/transfer box, so that sounds like it is in order.

Thanks to both Davids! I will try your suggested tests and report back. It may take a couple of days as the builders are in again, and I will be the manual cement mixer. Just a couple of other points to add. The second alternator is 2nd hand on loan whilst Marcus is away in Iraq. His 90 has been out of action for months, so the efficiency of it is unknown. All I can say is that on the original alternator with increased revs the V did climb. Also when I was cleaning up the separate battery earths, I noted that one lead went to both chasis and gearbox and the other only went to gearbox. Is that OK? Thanks again for all the advice. It really has been a steep learning curve! Cheers, Paul

Thanks David, Yes, the alternator was running at 14.2V and combined batteries connected and running simultaneously at 13.3V. Interestingly when my foot goes on the accelerator the V drops to a combined 13.1V? Jump leads are standard to my LR itinerary, but I now think they became part of the 18 wheelers! I had very little sleep that night and was convinced I had packed them back in my trunk. It is very hard to find good ones over here. Most have thick looking cables but are mainly insulation with a tiny core. I will have a look around for some cable to complete your suggested tests. I did have a split charge system, but when my cousin tidied up the wiring found that it wasn't working so simply connected the batteries until I bought another one. As everything was working smoothly for several months I never got round to replacing it. I will try and look for one here or change to a single battery as you suggest until I get over to the UK next in March. Would a reading from a single good battery of 13.7V be acceptable when the alternator reads 14.2V. When we tried this the V still dropped at the battery when the revs were increased?. Cheers, Paul

Hi, I did the tests yesterday and these are the results. I had to modify the 2nd test as I couldn't find jump lead. My local mechanic friend thinks that the original battery that I replaced was the main culprit and that my 2nd battery is only slightly better with the newest battery keeping things ticking over. He thinks the first alternator was damaged by the current from the 18 wheeler that jump started me in Hungary. Do you agree? Alternator +ve to –ve was 14.2V Then both +ve leads disconnected from batteries with engine running. Multimeter from +ve disconnected batteries to connected –ve leads read 14.2V As soon as the +ve leads were replaced with engine running the combined V dropped to 13.3V. Battery readings separately were 13.7V for the new battery and 13.1V for the existing battery. Cheers, Paul

Thanks David for all that information, a great help. I will get on with all the tests tomorrow and report back. Cheers, Paul

Thanks Luke, got that. I take it with 2 batteries, I would have to test one battery at a time, with other battery terminals removed?

Well not the most successful morning of testing. The main problem being the leads on my multimeter being too short to do much in the engine bay and under the front passenger seat at the same time! I did manage to get the lead from the alternator body and then to the cable on the earth. With engine running and lights on it read -0.01V. Not sure if I was doing something wrong with the amp test. I had it set on 10A, then both +ve leads connected with both -ve leads disconnected. Multimeter to +ve and disconnected -ve gave no reading. However, neither was the light on with the door open? The 11.97 battery I changed for a spare fully charged battery. However, the resulting multimeter reading with engine running was still only 13.2V? Cheers, Paul

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm just downing a couple of coffees before I get started on the tests mentioned. It was well below zero last night and snow everywhere. Picture enclosed of the wood store to give you some idea of the cold! I disconnected the batteries last night and left them in the LR. The V readings were 12.24V and 12.52V disconnected. This morning they were 11.97V and 12.37V disconnected. When I connected them, I had a combined reading of 12.13V. When I started the engine I had a reading of 13.5V on idle. I spoke to a local mechanic friend that has been helping me and mentioned the various tests discussed on the forum. He said he did one of them in a crude way to test for load draw when the ignition is off. Both negs connected then with internal light off touched pos leads to pos batteries posts to see if there was any spark. There was nothing which he said indicates no draw? Cheers, Paul

Yes, I have checked the electrolyte levels. One of the batteries needed topping up and has been charged up. No smells though. I have a cut off switch for the winch attached to the front of the battery box. Why would you check that? Thanks Paul No I haven't. I am not too clever with the multimeter, so which setting should I put it on for this test, and what level of draw am i looking for? Both batteries are disconnected for the night. It is cold outside with plenty of snow, so I'm looking forward to seeing what the readings are in the morning. Thanks, Paul

Thanks Chris, but I changed the alternator this morning for a different one and the output was just as low?

Thanks for all the ideas. The book says that the alternator output should be a minimum of 13.4V at 3000 revs, but I'm not getting higher than 13.1V with nearer 5000 revs. If one or both batteries were at fault surely that wouldn't make any difference to the alternator output? I have been swapping the battery with easiest access with a new fully charged battery. If it is a battery at fault then it will be the other as the new battery is being discharged too. I also noticed on the unchanged battery a black oily film around the screw threads to the cells, which I have never seen before I will separate the batteries as you suggest David and see if that makes a difference. Nothing is left on at night and ignition keys are removed. I have noticed that dash lights are working intermittently, so maybe a short somewhere or just a bad connection. Cheers, Paul

Hi, Any ideas would be appreciated. Driving back to Transylvania. All going well until I slept in the LR overnight in Hungary. In the morning starter clicking but not enough power to start. Lorry driver jump started me to get me back to Romania. Stopped and started engine 3 more times that day, no problem. Following morning same starting problem. I have x2 batteries under the seat. They are not split charged but connected together. One mainly for the starter, the other for nearly everything else. Only changes recently are upgrade to 100W headlight bulbs which were on all day in Hungary. Anyway, I swapped one of the batteries to get LR started. Reading from both batteries with engine running was 12.8V (too low I know) Earth lead from battery to chasis and chasis to gearbox cleaned. Charge went up to 13V with engine running. Belt to alternator new and tensioned properly. Local auto electrician changed x1 diode as faulty. However, no increase from 13V charge resulted. Again this morning both batteries drained. When disconnected one read 9V and the other 5V. When connected 6.6V. However, before going to bed the night before both were just over 12V. Its as if something is draining the batteries overnight? I had another alternator so swapped it over. Again only a 13V charge. Am I missing something obvious? Cheers, Paul

Hi, First of all you need to bookmark this page on Field Medicine from the RGS website You can buy the RGS book here on Amazon This PDF document will list all the contacts you will ever need for expedition and wilderness first aid training and medicine, in different locations around the country. For kit, talk to Paul Fryer at SP Services He is a paramedic by profession and will design you a kit specific to your requirements and level of competence. This is a worthwhile investment for those rare occasions when things go wrong. In some countries such as Germany, carrying a first aid kid is a legal requiremnt, so you will need one anyway when driving over to me! I am a Fellow at the RGS, so if I can assist you with anything else, please let me know. Cheers, Paul

Hi, I will let you know as soon as dates agreed. Cheers, Paul

Hi Chris, Here is an update:- David got in touch with me at the weekend regarding a venue The George Inn - Middlezoy Unfortunately at this late stage I am completely booked up with commitments before returning to Transylvania on the 27th. I had a discussion with David regarding a presentation during my next trip in January. It was agreed that this may be a better time anyway after the x-mas break? So, I have contacted the George Inn and received a list of possible dates, which I have forwarded to David. All we need now is a consensus of opinion, middle or end of January 09? For those that are interested further north, I will be giving a presentation at the Brunswick brewery, Derby this Thursday November 20th between 7-9pm. Please add your name to this thread if you intend to attend as room size depends on numbers. Not really sure what you mean "Paul? Luvvers?" I have just received my final and completed company video, which I have just embedded into my website. This should give you a flavour of what we can offer. You will see that this video is aimed mainly at those interested in wildlife, but we hope to complete another soon which will concentrate on 4x4, overland trips. Cheers, Paul

It must be the side walls on my BFG's then. I think I am going down the defender rim route, but still trying to work out why tubeless rims cost more than twice as much as tubed! Not had problems with MOT as I always have my AT's on for that

Hi Nick, Which 265's are you using on your Disco steels? What clearance do you get to the spring housing on full tilt at the rear? I have also reduced the turning circle at the front to prevent them rubbing.

Hi I have been offered some Defender 90 steel rims. Does anyone know the difference between these and 110 rims. Is there a load rating difference? Paul

Booked! Unfortunately, the function room at the Brunswick in Derby was booked up on the 19th, so I have booked it for Thursday November 20th. Kick off will be at 7pm finishing around 9pm. There is also a bar close by! Please let me know by e-mail, PM or phone if you are coming as a bigger room will be required if more that 15 people attend. Sparg - please don't forget the projector as I will be lost without it My UK mobile number is 0794 766 4295 e-mail: paul@transylvania4x4tours.com Venue:- The Brunswick Brewery Ltd 1 Railway Terrace Derby DE1 2RU Tel: 01332 290677 'The Board Room The smaller of our two upstairs rooms, the board room is ideal for small presentations/meetings, and can comfortably seat 15 people. In the event of a large function room booking the board room can be used a buffet service area. Again please be aware that as this is an upstairs room there is no disabled access.' Cheers, Paul

Sorry to hear about this Matt. I am over in the UK at the moment so will keep my eyes peeled. I have been up and down the M6 today, but nothing seen. I hope it turns up soon. Best wishes, Paul