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jimfoo

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Everything posted by jimfoo

  1. jimfoo

    Quiet init ?

    Been driving mine every day to work, had been taking some short trips to look for rocks/minerals, but no off road until I get a new halfshaft. With all the cold temps, I've been having to plug it in at night quite a bit. Glad I have Kodiak and Smith's heaters.
  2. Why would you need a shovel to get out of the parking space? I didn't need a shovel for this...
  3. I put a GM amp on my Rangie and it's been running just fine, especially at $30. £380! It better double your horsepower and wipe your back side for that price!
  4. You could always roll your own.
  5. VW's & Audi's had them, I think some Saabs, late 80's - early 90's Chrysler, Nissan's. Probably a lot of others as well. Size wise I only know Garrett, and a VNT 25 would probably be in the ballpark for a 200-300 TDI.
  6. And my actuator looks odd as it is a vacuum type which I took apart, swapping the internals around so that it would work on boost. It also allows for easily changing springs out.
  7. One person's setup. A thread with pics on another setup. And mine... Here is what I rigged up to control the vanes on the VNT. The cable pulls on the cam, rotating it, which pushes against the spring and vane control, closing the vanes. It is in the open position here. Here I am pulling on the cable which will hook to the throttle via a spring. The cam has fully closed the vanes, and the bolt at the back of the cam is almost touching the actuator. Here the actuator is receiving full boost(from my air compressor) and is pushing on the bolt, opening the vanes to reduce boost. I later on welded a small tab so the cam(off a Subaru carb)would pull up on the vanes instead of relying only on the spring.
  8. Having had a VGT on my Series for some time now, I'll pipe up. My vanes are controlled by a cable and springs hooked to the go pedal. Vanes are forced normally open by a spring. The cable hooks to a stronger spring, and when you step on the accel pedal, it overcomes the weaker spring, closing the vanes. A boost actuator will overcome both springs when the desired boost is reached, opening the vanes. There are various configurations based on this general idea that are now running on VW engines on vwdiesel.net, and no one, myself included has anything bad to say about how they work. Also having the vanes controlled by throttle position helps with fuel economy as the exhaust is only restricted when you need more power. Turbocharger, in your thread, you mention adjusting something that Mitsubishi put in a hard to get at place. I hope it isn't the screw that limits how far the vanes close as that is a critical factory setting and should never be changed. Also here is a good pic showing how they work.
  9. Mine has a body coloured roof and a white sunsheet.
  10. If you run it, filter it well, and don't run more than 20% or you will end up coking everything up and ruining your engine.
  11. I had an antenna that had an ok SWR, but it was very stiff, I added a spring, and the SWR was past 3 on any channel no matter how I tuned it. I ended up finding a thin strip of copper foil taped near the tip brought the SWR down to a reasonable level, 1.5 on 1 & 40. I had to do a lot of trial and error on strip width and placement. It works by adding capacitance to the antenna, thereby lowering it's resonant frequency.
  12. Classicvolvo.com had similar problems with Ford, fought them and won.
  13. Heard on the news that Kodak made their last batch of Kodachrome. Sad...
  14. What a great event it was, our largest rally to date(probably small by your standards though) with 227 Rovers. The 3D trail. The white line painted on the rock is so you know where you are going I broke a rear halfshaft on the way to the trail, and although I have a locker, I had to back up this section to get enough traction. A Series and Disco coming down Hurrah Pass. End of the trail. Just a few of the Rovers, and a couple non-Rovers. Stopped at an overlook. The view. Some old American Indian paintings along the way. Lots more pics here. I guess PUG stopped by, but I was out somewhere. Bet he was wishing he could have rented a Rover and joined us.
  15. Bearmach, is that the Toro overdrive? Please post up if you do find parts.
  16. I think whatever you buy, you should save up and put this in it.
  17. One thing to keep in mind is that the higher the lift, the less pressure the pump will make, so if it gets to high, you won't have the pressure for the filter. However if it's like the pumps I've used, they make over 100 psi, so you should have a good bit of leeway.
  18. Shaft on the turbo snapped. It should be on it's way back from being rebuilt as we speak. I am planning on taking it to Moab next week for the rally, so it better be here in time. Was that your truck in Ryans pics? Looks like that was a nice trip.
  19. Geneva Creek trail, west of Denver, off of Guanilla Pass. It's a fairly mellow trail, even more so since they did work on it, but it still has great views. Looking up at a mine high up the mountain. Stopped at one of many old cabins in the area. A can found by one dates between 1897 and 1904. Looking down while driving up to the mine. Looking up the rest of the way. Parked in the mine tailings high above the Geneva town site far below. coming back down from the mine. We then drove to the main town site, although I didn't get any pictures of it. when we got back down, one Discovery's transfer case got stuck in neutral, so I had to tow him back.
  20. Sometimes it will do that when the mainshaft nut is loose.
  21. Not true for galvanic corrosion. I have seen Rover panels that were completely rotted off from where they were touching the steel. Replace the corroded spots, and put rubber or something to limit contact between the different metals.
  22. Very nice pictures. Looks like a lovely area to travel.
  23. Yeah, I see a camera mentioned. Let's see some pics so I can see what a Devil's Punchbowl across the pond looks like as we have one over here as well.
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