oddballrovers
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Posts posted by oddballrovers
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Hi Folks
Here are som epics from Bill they have been around the world to get here so be carefull with them
Hi Bill
It looks very nice, where are the oil hoses connected to the box?
What is the purpose off the "hump" on the top off the thick plate right in front off the box?
Regards
Ole.
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Hi Folks
Here are som epics from Bill they have been around the world to get here so be carefull with them
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Hi Jericho.
I just love that, your are the first one to make me aware off my miss spellings.
I am not always careful enough, do remember I am not from an English speaking country
Kind regards
Ole.
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A left hand drive steering box mounted inboard on the right hand side would work fine but I try to avoid as much surgery to the vehicle chassis as I can.
I don;t know how the steering box would clash with your shocks unless you have a twin setup, but tyre clearance on full left lock at full articulation can be a bit tight, although the very first conversion I did was to a highly articulate Stage 1 V8 with 36'' diameter Q78 super swampers on forward control rims had very few clearance issues. It was a rush job to complete the conversion on the weekend on top of all the other things my wife had planned for me to do, but I did manage to take some photos and transferred them on to my computer, but for some reason I have been unable to move them to a location where I can actually post them. my computer has been hacked and severely corrupted by someone calling themselves Godzilla, andit takes me nearly half an hour to get online. I'll keep trying, maybe I'll ask you to PM me your email address and I may be able to email the photos direct to you.
Bill.
Hi Bill
I am running a set up for shocks as per Gon2Far so the shock is just where the steering box is if it is fitted on the outside.
An other reason for keeping the stuff inside the rails is that it helps on the center off gravity!!!
Re surgery, that is no problem it is a pure bread challenge vehichle thoug still road legal.
I have mailed you my emailadrs.
Looking very mush forwar to the pics.
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Hi Betsy.
Yes that is seen before both at the place where you have encountered the problem but also right behind the eyes, we are some folks that have thought that a bit on this.
We think that there is two issues, the breakaged you have had we think is due to axle wrap.
And the breakaged behind the eyes we think is due to the fact that with parabolics there are only a few layer to take up the twist in the spring in its longitudinal direction, wich you can not do much about, except chose some spring brand that is not as prone to it as others.
The breakage behind the eyes we have seen mostly on RM's and not much on other brands.
Your kind off failure has been seen on almost all the good springs RM's TIC's and CPC.
Wether we have not seen it on British spring's they just bend!!!
So it is also dawn to the compromise the manufature makes in his product.
I do however think that an axle anti wrapbar will help on this plus offcourse give improved traction.
I know it is not much off a comfort merely just a statement off facts.
regards
Ole.
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Toyota LandCruiser 60 and 62 series.Light, strong and everlasting. fits on outside of chassis rail so requires wheels with a tad more offset. I've done 5 conversions to date using a clamp on adaptor plate that eliminates the need to cut, drill or weld to the landy chassis. Currently doing a Stage 1 v8. If I have time on the weekend I'lltryto take pics.
Bill.
Hi Bill
That is actually also the ones I have stopped at or perhaps LJ70, I do how ever not like the outboard plasement, it colides with me tyres and shocks, so I had a thought why not use a righthand drive unit placed inbord on a lefthand drive??
Regards
Ole.
Ps I a looking very much forward to see some picys.
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Hi Folks
When is it due time to selebrate 40 years for the LWT is it this years degember or is not until next spring?
Regards
Ole.
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Hi Greg.
I am very pleased with TIC springs, Rockies have turned out to be not quite as sprongy as TIC's, British Springs are to soft do not last very long before they get "tired".
That is my expirience.
There though one problem, it seems to be very very hard to get hold off TIC's and they are very pricy 800 euros, have anybody bought some lately and what did they pay
Ole.
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Brilliant - it climbed flawlessly, and there are some long hills at 7S. I'm really rather chuffed to say the least
Next time I'll top the oil up beforehand, the light came on on a couple of climbs where I was going up a very steep bit at very low RPM
Before you ask - I didn't get any pictures 'cos my co-driver dropped out last-minute, and my digi camera got a bit moist during the EDIS testing
I'm sure others have piccies though.Hi Fridge.
Jolly good to hear, while we have been waiting for the "propper" test drive results I have been thinking on how you have sorted/figured out the geometry off the bars/ shakles.
It looks on the pics like the short bar is using a long shakle and the long one is using a short one!!! erhmm... explanation please.
Kind regards
Ole.
Ps Having seen the Pics in the 7S tread it no wonder you got some mal function with the digi cam
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V8 Freak - the beauty is you can slip in the 4.6 later (or sooner) and just download someone else's fuel map
Oddball - do you mean "will MS mind if the idle is at 2000rpm" or do you mean the MS would need to control the idle speed to keep it at 2000? Both are OK, the MS doesn't care where the idle is, and you can use a stepper motor or PWM idle valve to run closed-loop idle control. Why do you need to set the idle that high anyway?
Hi Fridge..
I would like to have a facility with a switch so that when I am using my hydpump I do not need to be on the throtle with the foot but can do like in the old days with the hand throthe on the diesels, just set it at an apropiate rpm.
That is what I am looking for.
Regards
Ole.
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So has anyone megasquirrted a 2.25? or would this be new territory
Hi Sheep..
Come spring I will have more to tell as I am taking a 2,5l petrol out to 2,95 l and either megasquirt it or if i can have a high rpm idle ie 1500-2000 rpm control option then I am going to use a DTA system.
I am looking for aprox 125hk at 4500-5000rpm and 17-20kgm at 1500-2500rpm I have done a 2,5 based on 2.25 3main taken out to 2,5l and got 17,5kgm at 1400 and 18,7kgm at 2300 and 80hk.at 4500rpm.
So with 2,95l I hope to get atleast over 100hk and close to 20kgm.
Perhaps Fridge knows if i is possible to have a facility so that one can have a governed engine speed off ie 1500-2000rpm?
Regards
Ole.
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So far I've done a couple of steep but firm climbs (on dry grass), Sunday I'm taking it off-road properly so will test it then.
Hi Fridge..
So how was it sunday???
Regards
Ole.
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The large bit ot of metal on the bottom of my front axle TWIZZLE
Hi Twizzle.
That is an reinforced axle housing.
Kind regards.
Ole.
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just take the roof off to compensate!! but yeah, know what you mean. wonder how big a difference to stability it would make?
what about a big arse skid plate?
I'm thinking about re-doing the mid section crossmembers, so they be flush with the chassis rails. dunno if I could be stuffed though.
Hi Crossy.
I can not take the roff off, has to be there or I will have to have a 6 point rollcage (regs), can do with 4 when the roof is keept and a "shaved" truckcap is less then that and gives protection for rain I am not a pussy but we do on an average 200 road miles between sections and have to keep roadbook and so on dry.
The skidplate is precisly what I am heading for, crossmembers up between rails and then a plate off 5 mm Si1 alu as skidplate bolted to them and the rails. Si1 is almost as strong as ordinary steel.
Regards
Ole.
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I'll take some photo's at the weekend for you
I'm fairly certain the box mounted inside the chassis rails like the Rover box
Hi Lewis
Thats very nice looking forward to that.
Regards
Ole.
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Two options I've come across.
First, old Volvos have a steering setup very similar to Series. I used to know someone who had adapted a Volvo power box to replace the original series box - and it worked good.
I doubt it was any stronger than the original though - but the steering was effortless.
Second, and this is probably the strongest and maybe the highest strength to weight ratio.
Someone does a steering ram which replaces the steering rod with a connection to the chassis with built in valving such that the ram assists the normal steering.
This is very similar to the ram-assist becoming popular on challenge trucks. Because the amount of force / torque you have to apply to the valves on the end of the ram is minimal, there is almost no strain on the rest of the steering. The power end of the ram connects directly to one of the wheel swivels, so it's only the swivels and track rod which are subject to the high loadings.
I can't remember who supplies it, but that's what I'd look for!
Si
Hi Si
I tink
Gareth Almond uses something like that, he races ia leafer in NORC.
But what I am after is more like the set up used on coilers from Rover, but not nescesarily made of Rover parts.
The ram thing is nice and simple to fit but there is no weight saving there.
Ole.
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Front is close (and tricky to photograph) but it fits and seems to work:
Hi fridge.
Looks very nice, how much ahve you tested this setup.
Ole.
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I vote to lift the whole thing, would be so much easier ? (still not easy though!)
i think mine is about three inches higher than standard. no problems with shaft angle (109) but really need to adapt a cable hand brake setup.
also - you'll need to raise the engine mounts the same to ensure the prop shaft angles are kept the same.
any way my 2c
Hi Crossy.
I do not like the idea off lifting the two heaviest items on the truck, if I can I will lower the engine wich I hope will be possible perhaps not much but every thing counts on competition truck.
Ole.
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Ole
We recently stripped a Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 for scrap - the steering box was remarkably smaller than a Rover 4 bolt and no doubt a great deal stronger, either myself or Dan can post some photos should you require them
Regards
Hi Lewis.
Yes please pictures and if possible weight, does it sit inside or ooutside the reails?
Chers
Ole.
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The lightest and the strongest are usually at opposite ends of the scale unless you want to spend a lot of money.
Hi Fridge
I know but it must be possible to find something as strong as the Rover units but not as heavy some US stuff perhaps??
Ole.
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Hi Folks.
I am not shure if this the right place, if not then it most be moved to series.
I am going to go powerassist on my LWT, but but since I am or it is on a weight saving diet what to use?
What is the lightest/ strongest, it is not a necessity that it is a Rover thing, Toyota or whatever will work is ok, as long as it is light and strong and it fits inside the rails.
For the steering linkage I have seen some in alu but where where they used? RRC or Disco or ?? I am thinking of the part thatis ment to split in case off a frontal hit.
Regards
Ole.
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It's a release bearing isn't it?
Hi Fridge.
Yes SAAB uses some that works like them, the ones on your pic is some costly racy things I think I think I paid 50£ for an OE SAAb one.
Regards
Ole.
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Is it a SIII? if so there may be an issue with the clutch slave cylinder.
Yes but that one is also solved either by using a series II bell or by welding up that hole and using a slave cylinder from a SAAB I do not know what it is called but it is a cylinder that the input shaft goes through one saves a lot off weight in that way.
But thanks for pointing that one out.
Kind regards
Ole.
I'm sure others have piccies though.
Tilting diffs
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
Hi Folks
Now that I have decided to turn the whole transmission, is it any good to turn the diffs pinions upwards in order to reduce the angle? I can see that if the diff nose is upped by 2" then there is the same hight difference as before turning the transmission.
Are there any drawbacks I have overlooked, I know that is involves some fabricating ie I have to do some thing to get the castor right is there by the way any advantage in increasing that now that I am at the "fabric" work ?
Regards
Ole.