[Help name needed]

Hi

What about "PULLMINATOR" and then some numbers acording to whatever the max pulling capacity is.

Regards

Ole.

[Darien Gap]

Hi Folks

Lovely idea, personally I cant go, but will like to support in anyway possible, what about if someone dug out the film that was made off the first go I would love to see it, it might also get some one cranked up for it.

What about doing it in the year when the RRC is 40 years just an idea, might then be possible to get some more media coverage.

The time schedule would be oki I think

Regards

Ole

[Winch Cable?]

Mmm ! Looks good , Has anyone tried it yet?

Hi

Yes it is being used here in Denmark and on Iceland and dawn under, it is the strongest off all ropes but it is also the most costly, for me it is the rope to have.

There are however a few drawbacks, it is not easy to splice in the field when the braid wears out it starts to fluff and do jam up in big lumps on the rope itself, but at that time one should perhaps change it

I do buy them direct from the factory in different lengths 28M 30M 45M and different thickness they are normally kept in stock with a stainless dimple or they are made to order.

I think I saw it in 2005 on the Milemarker stand at Billing on a yellow RRC kitted out for Ladoga.....now who could that be

Its the best strength wise but expensive to run

Regards

Ole.

[New Hydraulic Winch]

Not quite sure why asking what the ratio of winch speed to wheel speed seams to earn me the 'all the gear and no idea' tag...????

However having used a PTO driven superwinch 525 winch for a few years I have discovered that they are fantastic appart from the fact that the winch pulls at a 3rd of the wheel speed in low 1st. If you need to drive assist this means you hammer the drive train, dig holes and generally proceed very slowly. If you have ground suitable to hold the pull via a big tree or your ground anchor yoiu can just bung the transfer box in neutral and the main box in 5th and away you go pulling 4000KG at ~ 60ft minute (engine at ~2000rpm) - fantastic. if only I could do this and drive the wheels...........

Unless an hydraulic winch is very fast at low engine rpm, my opinion is that a hydraulic winch will suffer exactly the same problem..... I am interested to find out if you have managed to solve this issue, hence my question.

Adrian

Hi Adrian

You are absolutely right about the drive assist issue, as soon as you can help just a bit with the wheels it goes much easier, to get an ideal setup for what we do here in DK a fast and strong pulling winch is not everything, because you need a very solid anchor point IE a big tree, we can here very very seldom use trees, we are not allowed to do so or there are just not any in miles.

So in order to minimize the load on the Anchor, drive assist is a must sometimes, it is not fun winching up a 50 degree or more incline and then the anchor losses grip, we have tried it several times also on night stages uh uh scary when you all off a certain a rushing dawn wards and it is so steep you cant break or get a grip to hold it with your wheels one just has to hold tight to the steering hope for the best and start all over again, I have quite often with the electric winch we had last year, abused the clutch a lot but only at the last stages off an event and I must say that it makes a h*** off a difference when there is just a tiny bit off help from the wheels.

We do also see some off the teams from Poland running winches so fast that you can not run besides them, they are often made off a diff that is welded in one side and then a drum is adapted on the other side and then rear mount, driven from the PTO, they are just so fast you don't believe it until you have seen it.

So something that I think ought to be looked at even more than inventing new winches is a cheap-is way off making under-drives and I mean real under drives like the total ratio 120-150 but I guess underdrives is not so posch as winches

Just my words based on my experience, but then again we do perhaps have different need here in DK as we do different kind off events

Regards

Ole.

[Donnington 4X4 show]

Hope to be there on Sunday, but not sure yet.

Would be good to meet up - I guess I'll be hanging around the British Cross Country Championship (nee BORC)/ Hillrally Championship stand.

H

Hi Henry

Great will look for you there.

Kind regards

Ole.

[Donnington 4X4 show]

Hi Folks

Who's going? Are anybody meeting some where? I am flying over from Berlin Saturday evening staying in Cambridge overnight driving up Sunday morning, going back to Cambridge Sunday evening to catch the flight Monday morning for Denmark.

Regards

Ole.

[New Hydraulic Winch]

If anyone is interested I am just finishing off the details on my direct drive coupling for hydraulic pumps/ dog clutches onto 200TDI engines. At present it only fits the cast iron pulley but I am working on other versions. I am also working on pump mounting brackets for landrover engines. Will have final price by the weekend.

Hi Old Spot

As I am gathering information for my build off a hydro winch I would like to know what pum do you use what is the cc and what is the max rpm and how do you avoid exceding the rpm limit?

Kind regards

Ole.

[2 1/4 Carbs]

Owl & Philbert - crikey, I've got a queue now!

I'll do some thinking and work out some numbers, not having a 2.25 here to "prototype" on may complicate things a little, if you were able to get the adapter plate as per Edward's post made up and bolt the TBI on so you're happy with it it would save me a lot of faffing this end. Perhaps it's worth doing a forum group buy and getting a few made? I'm more than happy with wiring, plumbing, and tuning though.

Hi Fridge.

I would also like to jump on the train if possible please , mine is a 2,5 Petrol later a 2,95 Petrol, I have thought about MS for a long time but ended up with to many Question marks so had actually almost jumped to DTA wich I know.

But the price on the MS really do attract me.

Kind regards

Ole.

[mid mount winch]

If you want pictures have a look at this site - the Canadian patent office.

http://patents.ic.gc.ca/cipo/cpd/en/patent...01/summary.html

It's the patent application for the Foers (Ibex) Vector centre winch system. Follow the View or 'Download Images' link and then 'Drawings'.

Hope that helps.

H

Hi HoggyN

Super duper, that puts some light on where the weak and strong places are!!! Thanks a lot.

I have already drawn up haow to do a double fairled for the big pulley in the back and how to get the right triangulation for strenght, that you will all see in members vehicle forum under The Kitten.

By the way

This thing about efficiency still puzzles me brain anyone out there with knowledge in that field??

Regards

Ole.

[mid mount winch]

Hi Folks.

Thanks for all the input great help, Ihave in my search for information found this info on loads:http://www.dodgepowerwagon.com/glovebox/snatch.html

But I do recall that sometime wayback saw something about sheave "efficiency" ie if the relation BTW wire and sheave, is say 1:20 efficiency is 85%, I can however not find it anywhere, can anybody help?

Regards

Ole.

[mid mount winch]

Hia Folks

Just wanted to show off with a picy off the new toy that is going in the rear off "The Kitten".

It is being imported into Europe by one off our fellow forumers if anybody interested PM me.

Regards

Ole.

[Series vs 90 diffs]

I know a few of those

Aren't there issues between Series diffs having imperial bearings & later diffs having metric?

That is rigth, but Kam, Ashcroft and Crown all do supply sleves to put outside the metric bearing so that a metric carrier goes into a imperial housing, I have done it to get 24 spline ARB Locker using an old type 4,7 CP I also pegged it the crude way, just a 14mm bolt screwed in so that it just touches the C wheel and then a bit back, since that we have had no issues with CP but on the other hand we are only running 33" MT's, shafts are Maxi, and power is not big from a 2,25petrol but the gearbox is a one ton so the tourque is there somehow anyway.

Regards

Ole.

[mid mount winch]

if you run anything through a pulley, and it goes there AND back - it has to go twice as far, that halves the speed the pulley will move at.

Its the exact same principle that doubles the force at the pulley.

work=force x distance

Obviously, using the pulley to divert the course of the rope doesn't change it's speed or mechancial advatange, hence the front hook, being single line, is still standard speed and force. you are squeezing the chassis in both circumstances.

Hi Luke

Yes it will squeeze the chassis but how do get the forces figured out ie: is it not so that in the Ibex set up that the pulley will pull in the rear xmember with double the the forward line pull or am I way out off line

It would be nice to get figured just a ballpoint figure how the forces are

Regards

Ole.

[mid mount winch]

I've run a couple of LR's with front and rear winches - and used them simultaneously on numerous occasions, more than I ever thought I would. Not forgetting if you run the same winches / motors you’ve always got spares.

Lee

Hi Lee

With the things we do and we end up in a situation where we have to use the winch in both ends at the same time we are in so deep s*** that we have lost that stage so that is not a thing we will have to think about someone will then pull us out before they start the stage so that we are not blocking it, or we will recover our self and jump the stage and carry on the road book to next stage.

The stuff we do is just like a rally we have a roadbook go from special stage to special stage on normal roads. The stages are then in woods, quarrys and so, you start in a startgate your time starts and you have to negotiate the stage as fast as possible so if you end up having to use winches in both ends you have lost it.

The reason why I do want the winch in the back are: it gives you the posibility to get a good distance between fairled and drum, to be competitive we must run winch speeds in the region of at least 100 feets/min) weight distribution is better, and of course if we end up in the s*** we can pull ourself backwards out in a slow and controlled way.

Regards

Ole.

[mid mount winch]

I built one, but did not like it. The main problem is spooling out; its too difficult for the co driver if he cant see the drum, let alone if the drag of the system is too high. mine went forward through the car and you could take a loop out of the drum to go double when winching backwards. The Ibex system has soo much drag on it that your winch power is drastically reduced. Also, if you are knee deep in the mud and your cable breaks, good luck...

In the end, I decided to pay the weight penalty and use 2 winches, like most people.

Daan

Hi Daan

It might be a stupid question, but why do the codriver need sto see the drum when spoling out?

We do sometimes do night stages and there is no chance that he can se the drum in these cases and it is never a problem.

Ole.

[mid mount winch]

Hia Folks

The build off "the Kitten" has commenced, my longtime vapourbuild has started to solidify, you will all see more in the members vehicles forum later when I get the pictures right.

But anyway the oe plan was to use a front mount mechanical winch from RKI, working on The Kitten I got the idea why not go for mid mount/center mount??

So I started the search for info, did not find much, Foers Ibex was one, red-ibex another one, but that site is down nowadays.

I need some pictures please! and ideas and experience from you.

I am specially thinking about how to get the rope to the front in the best way for the rope??

Looking forward to the inspiration

Kind regards

Ole.

[rock sliders for a lightweight]

some ideas for rock sliders for a lightweight plssss

thanks james

Hi James

I have made some off 30x80 boxsection 2mm thick made so they do replace the OE panel, the truck is 40 miles away if the Blacksmiths cave next time I go I will take picies for you.

Regards

Ole.

[Ground Anchors....the alternative thread.]

Hi Streaky.

Here in Denmark almost everybody uses "Hardox 400" 5-6mm thick for the shovel.

Ole.

Hi

Thought I also would add a couple off pics for inspiration, we have now been using this design for 4-5 years in Denmark with great succes, the spade is as far as I know almost twice the X-eng one, we do need that for the danish soil, it holds well in everything but lose gravel, if you want I can get the ruler out during the weekend and get the mesures for you.

Its only drawback is the weight 15 kg.

Kind regards

Ole.

[Ground Anchors....the alternative thread.]

So as not to get mixed up in the other thread which occasionally refers to the actual product in question.....

Whats the steel type used for the shovel? Would it be Chrome Moly steel? My mate managed to bend the 6mm thick shovel of his home made effort and we'd like to have something made a wee bit stronger.

I have a genuine Pull Pal and rekon the steel used for the shovel is much harder than ordinary mild steel plate.

Anyone care to add?

Thx.

S.

Hi Streaky.

Here in Denmark almost everybody uses "Hardox 400" 5-6mm thick for the shovel.

Ole.

[Happy Christmas everyone.]

Hi Folks

Also Xmax greating from Denmark, hope you all enjoy the time, in one or other way being with the dear ones or inventing dear things

Kindest regards from

Ole.

['Land Rover 2008 Ladies Calendar']

Have just bought 5 1 for my self and the others as gifts to friends, a grest idea it is, now looking forward to recieve them.

Kind regards

ole.

[The Lightweight 40 years anniversary.]

Hi Folks

Saturday the 15 off dec 2007 five motors and ten people meet to celebrate the fact that on friday the 14 it was 40 years since the first LeightWeights came off the official production line.

We had some fine food and beer and a lot of tyrekicking. The oldest was 1969 and the youngest was from 1983,

here are some pics to share the celebrating with you.

Five turned up and they had a good time.

Good sausage feast.

Trying to keep warm in the December sun!!

All lined up for the photographer.

Serious thoughts at the bay!!

[internal beadlocks]

I'd thought of doing something simerlar myself at one point. However, I never found any rims in the right size and offset to try it on.

As far as sizes go I was guessing thinking about 5mm or less so I'd try 1/8" and go from there - I think it may be a case of 3 bears engineering. What are you using got the cage? Plastic pipe?

Hope to find some plastic pipe or since I can weld the stuff, just some 3/8 flat cut to the right width, then rolled and welded.

We have some HDPE at firm that I thought off pinching.

If that fails, then two 3/8 thick alu bands 1/2-3/4 wide rolled welded and hold in distance off an appropriate number off 3/8 thick rods.

Regards

Ole.

[internal beadlocks]

I actually have used screws for my beadlocking needs for many years now. We can buy special high tensile drag racing screws at about a dollar apiece that work well. A few years ago before I went to portals I permanently ran duall wheels with zero pressure on the inner tyres and never ever popped a bead with the screws fitted. However I fitted the screws dry without antiseize, and being high tensile they corrode quickly and snapped when I needed to remove them for tyre repairs.When Iget around to it I'll try fitting the screws with a clearance hole in the wheel rim and just thread them into the tyre bead to avoid that problem.

Had mixed success fitting internal beadlocks to other trucks. Without a fibre optic lense there is no way of really knowing if the tube isn't getting pinched between the outer cover and the tyre.

Bill.

Hi Bill.

That sounds good I might try it, I have however spoken to a couple off tractorpuller guys ( www.team-interceptor.dk) and they say that the holes need to be just a tiny smaller than the screw otherwise, as far as they have found out, the screws break ??? They say.

Regards

Ole.

[internal beadlocks]

The screw thing has already been done with reasonable success.

The job doesn't look too bad with modulars - get yourself a set with push out plasic rivet things, push them out, tap the holes (I don't think you'll get a nut behind them), bolt into place a ring and weld it to the shell, cut the shell inbetween the ring and the centre and you've got the split rim. As far as cages go they don't want to be that much larger than the distance between the beads as rubber is one of the hardest materials to compress even though its very flexible.

Is he a mind reader that is exatly my idea, that much larger!! is that 1/8 or 3/16? or more.

Regards

Ole.