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oddballrovers

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Posts posted by oddballrovers

  1. Hi Zuz

    GO buy a new rad the two hoses and 4 new clips, bung it in the back, you can always change it some time at one of them F1 pit stops that I guess you are going to make on the travel.

    Since your car is the towcar for Mouse it is off rater great importence that you make it and being a towcar it needs a coling system that is in good working order. ;)

    As coolant you can use some off the stuff I sent Jez to use in Mouse's system, plain water and 7%-10% off the stuff it will improve heat transfer by 50% in relation to normal rad coolant that are safe down to -20, this will however not be safe if you have frost where you go, but I guess this is not the case :unsure:

    Kind regards

    Ole.

    Ps With regards to how difficult it is, it is hard to say but if nothing goes wrong then I would imagine it's a 1 hour job.

  2. Hi Folks

    I do not understand why it is so diffucult to fill in the data, re location just an area name or larger closest town is would be enough, I have also been in that situation where I refere to spicifik things in the european market and the got the response that the guy was from an other continent where things are different it to a couple off replys before we found out!!!

    Could have been avoided if info had been there.

    Kind regards

    Ole

  3. Hi Folks

    Uha and I thought off this as a friendly forum, well in the end it turned out so :rolleyes: , thank you everybody for your ethusiasm in replying.

    I think Hybrid put it wery well down in plaintext ;) what can go wrong when we have to rely on only btw 10-20% off our communication capabilities meaning that when we speak 10-20% is the words the rest is the way we say it and the way we speak with the body.

    Re the CV's, at the end off the day it is as we say in Danish " it is a question if you like the daugther or the mother" they are the same blod :blink::unsure:

    Have a nice day everybody

    Regards

    Ole.

  4. Hearsay is a wonderful thing even if a carp Band!

    facts are far harder to come by.

    I wonder why there are no facts on the Rovertracks page

    just "So I heard" comment

    Hi Tony.

    Yes facts is a hard thing to come by and some times they are not revealed to Joe the block since it is not for him to now off.

    I just want to find out what the gain is paying about 35% more for the Ashcroft thing in relation to the Longfield version ;)

    By the way what do you mean by carp band :unsure:

    Regards

    Ole.

  5. i think you'll struggle to get longfields now unless you do the whole toy conversion.

    http://www.rovertracks.com/products/axles.html

    now out of production and according to the above, the manufacturer (rockford aeromatic i think is the name, although i may have that a bit wrong) was asked to stop producing the rover longfields at the request of another more expensive manufacturer.

    so unless you can find some that have not yet been sold i think your decision is made for you.

    later on date in the year had been bandied about on pirate for the resumption production of rover longfields/longtracks.

    also remember that longfield versions are/were 27 spline at the cv end like Toyota and they did not make an aue 2522 version, only the later type, which i cannot remmeber the number of. in the unlikely event you break one, you can't make a temprary substitution with a standard part whilst you wait for your free replacement.

    hope that helps.

    Hi Callum.

    So what you do insinuate is actually that another retail supplier off such a product have put pressure on their manufacture (Rockford) in order not to supply Bobby whit LR cv's or am I way out off line :blink::unsure:

    I see some logic in using std splines,but the people that I know, that uses stuff like this they do always carry spares either at home or in the "service truck" because they does not want to mis a weekends competition just because off a blown CV.

    It might be easier then to go for the Toyo conversion which these days seems to be quite common and not at all as expensive as the LR things.

    Regards

    Ole.

  6. Hi Pugwash

    We used a T-max for our first two years in winching competition's and a twin battery (65AH) set up.

    The solenoids where carp and so the in/out switch but two rather huge solenoids from a fork lifter solved that and a super duper waterproof switch from RS.

    Well it was slow but the winch it self never let us down, it did however get a lot off rust and corrosion due to the carp cheap surface treatment or lack off it :(

    We did though have one issue, the fairleed got busted, that was before we learned where to weld it up so that it doesn't bent. Even a Warn leed will bent in the same place.

    I have also seen the Come-Up take some beating.

    Regards

    Ole

  7. Hi Pugwash

    We used a T-max for our first two years in winching competition's and a twin battery (65AH) set up.

    The solenoids where carp and so the in/out switch but two rather huge solenoids from a fork lifter solved that and a super duper waterproof switch from RS.

    Well it was slow but the winch it self never let us down, I did however get alot off rust and corrosion due to the carp cheap surface treatment or lack off it :(

    We did though have one issue the fairleed got busted, that was before we learned where to weld it up so that it doesn't bent. Even a Warn leed will bent in the same place.

    I have also seen the Come-Up take some beating.

    Regards

    Ole

  8. I can pass near to Notts if needs, only about 10 miles off route back to lincoln

    Hi Siearl

    That sounds good

    And to all off you I have forgottento describe what the goodies are. it is series transferbox with a small box off parts.

    Regards

    Ole.

  9. Hi Folks

    Thanks a lot for the offers :) , in this way I am going to improve on my knowledge about where what is in your country!!!

    James.. which Swindon are we talking about? :unsure:

    Siearl..Your route sounds oki, must passing close to Nottingham (Dan) ;)

    There is then either missing a leg up to High Wycombe or from Swindon to Nottingham

    The Alternative is to get it up to Jez as he will be able to relay on to Dan.... anyone???

    Kind regards

    Ole.

  10. Hi Folks

    With all the nice folks traveling to watch Jez and his team doing progress, I wondered if anybody could help with transport off a small pile off goodies from Jon White and up to Dirtydiesel, it is a transferbox with a few other parts for it.

    Kind regards

    Ole.

  11. Hi Thys.

    I just stumbled over this thread and have read is now.

    I am happy to hear that you got it right this early morning, gosh I do know how you have felt during this (despair might be an understatement I guess) I have been there, done that, I have learned from life that very seldom Landrover tech problems are as bad as one think at the first moment I do not know if it is because we sometimes look at at life in a not so positive way, but anyway congratulations have a nice weekend.

    Regards

    Ole.

    I found the knock!

    On the back of the crankshaft pulley, facing the engine there is a steel cap, protecting the dust seal and pulley shaft entry into the timing belt cavity.

    When I removed the pulley on my first removal, I dropped the pulley, on the third removal of the pulley I started the engine, and the sharp knocking was gone. Closer inspection revealed a small "dent on the cap side. I tried to press it out, but the cap was now "out-of-round". Re-installed the pulley, sharp knock was back.

    It was now 03:00 in the early hours of Thursday morning, in utter desperation I cut the dished end with a sheet metal cutter, and bent the cap flat against the pulley, no more knocking.

    If I have to remove the pulley again, I will replace it.

    Obviously, to the experts, the clearances between the pulley cap and the cover plate are minute.

    I am now a very happy Discovery owner again. :lol:;):P

  12. Hi Jen.

    If I was you I would go for a non galva, based on the following, thoughts, since it is ( I guess) a play thing how much salt is it going to see? how long time are you going to keep it in this state before you start to modify it?

    If you when all welding is finished you rub it down with a wire brush and give it two layers off good rust proof and then at least two layers off topcoat and the when you have finished putting it all together you treat it with something like wax oil or any other thing like that and you then each year, go over it with the under seal thing whatever you chose it will be fine for many years and you will have a chassis that you always can do repairs/mods to without having to worry about fumes as so.

    I would not like to be in the middle off nowhere and having to do a fast weld job and then have to spend time worrying about zinc fumes.

    If however it is a daily driver doing a lot off mileage I would go for the galva thing.

    When we have finished The Kitten we are moving on to a series RR based crew cap thing to haul it to the events and that is off course going galva.

    Just my few words, the Right thing at the right place.... ;)

    Regards

    Ole.

  13. narrow tank :) 45 degrees is no problem then, 90 degrees is ok too

    hey - if you are looking for a cheap and easy swirl pot Ole and you cant be bothered to make them - go to a plumbers shop and use the small tanks from a central heating systems (like the little red one in this picture)

    trianco-aztec-classic.jpg

    you can get them with a flange at the top thats big enough to mount in-tank pumps - a friend uses these and he buys them for about 30 euro ;) they're not heavy, maybe 3Kgs

    Hi Jez.

    Me tanks are the opposite wide and low 50cm long 32 wide 20 deep so they wont be OK in much off an incline in any direction unless fully topped up!!

    The little red thing might even be considered as main tank thanks for the tip.

    Regards

    Ole

  14. Carbs or EFI?

    My setup (single tank with swirl pot) runs:

    Tank pickup

    Facet lift pump (carb type fuel pump) through filter

    Into swirl pot

    Out of swirl pot into EFi pump

    HP Filter

    Fuel rail

    Pressure regulator

    Return line teed into return port of swirl pot

    Return line of swirl pot via a very small (motorbike) filter to restrict return flow and keep the pot under a bit of positive pressure (thanks to TSD for that tip).

    Never had a problem with it, and before the swirl pot it would suffer fuel starvation quite badly even under heavy cornering if the fuel was low.

    One alternative I looked at was a "clunk" pickup in the tank, jet-skis, chainsaws etc. have them - basically a weighted brass bit on the end of a flexible hose as the pickup so it will dangle wherever the fuel runs to on slopes etc.

    Hi Fridge.

    Carb now later EFI either MS or DTA.

    Sounds like a good setup the MC filter sounds like quite a smart thing, I have also been around the clunk thingy but ditched it because I didn't like the idea off anything bumping around in my fuel tank a hose that breaks away and you are F*****,

    I wonder if it in anyway would be a problem to te the return so that both tanks received simultaneously return fuel?

    Regards

    Ole.

  15. Hi Folks.

    Building The Kitten we have decided to ditch the original fuel tank, and go for two smaller ones under each seat, they will contain about 33liters so 66 total gives us a good range.

    My thoughts off the setup are as follows:

    Fuel pick-up, in front off one tank and in back off the other, two smaller fuel pumps feeding a 2 liter swirvelpot where a larger pump feeds the engine from.

    The reason for front and rear pickup is to avoid fuel starvation up and down hill with near empty tanks or would the pot last long enough :unsure:

    I am however not sure about the return line from the swivel-pot, one to each tank or or or ahh I getting frustrated :(

    Is it all being to complicated, should we just go for the old twin tank changeover tap and thats it.

    I just don't want to dangling in a winch line with a engine driven winch on a more than 45 degree up hill stage and the engine dieing from fuel starvation :blink:

    Any good ideas.... whats the experience?

    Kind regards

    Ole.

  16. Interesting. I'll blank it off and run it over the weekend and see how she runs

    Hi Hitting.

    As far as I have discovered there should be no probs at all, it is a common thing to do, we use a thin plate stainless 0,5-1,0MM thick and a gasket on the upper side the important thing is to get the inlet manifold cold so that it does not heat up the inlet charge, that is fine during warm up but it saps out power when hot.

    Good luck.

    Kind regards

    Ole.

    PS if you are about to do a tubular manifold then I would not waist any time on testing this I would just go straight ahead and do the manifold.

  17. Hi Folks

    Help is needed, in order to speed up the process off getting The Kitten on the road a 2,5 petrol was bought on eblag,but guess what, the seller had removed the flywheel and housing with out telling in the description :angry: , and that is not the worst thing if only, it has been left out side so the surface where the rear seal has to run is rusty :( .

    My thoughts is: plugs out, turning the crank with air impact wrench polishing the surface meanwhile with the air grinder fitted with a very fine flap thing 220 or so.

    Have a look at the picture:

    post-2143-1203629728_thumb.jpg

    What are your thoughts?

    Looking very much forward to get the good ideas coming.

    Kind regards

    Ole.

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