gav-

Congratulations, its given me a bit of hope so i can get mine sva'd now. cheers

Davo, the hoses on the p38 pressurize and go hard. the same on the bowler. Is the thermostat ok as well? the p38 looses a bit of water, which i stil havent found out the cause yet!! as for the core plug. i have removed one on the bowler before. i think i supported the engine and removed one of the engine brackets to get to it. hammered a screw driver through the middle an managed to lever it out. be careful not to damage the seat of the plug. you can drift the new plug in with block of wood(which u have plenty off!) and a hammer!

yeah i have been relying on the guage, ill run to empty next time and then see. cheers for the advice

i have just brought a p38 95 4.6 with lpg, and its a great car, but i am only able to put in 40l of lpg in the 90l tank. i am not sure why as i havent investigated. but have obviously the pressure is effected by the temp of both the gas and the tank. v8david has the same issue. on 40l i achieved 160 of motorway driving - 18mpg. Its an OMVL system which was supplied by go.lpg.co.uk. I brought it fitted.

please dont think i am advertising another forum, this is merely a suggestion. I have found it very useful since i brought my car. www.rangerovers.net/forum

probably a bit difficult to get hold of now, but i have two 12" vauxhall cavalier fans on a v8 rad. works well and easy to fit as the cowlings are taller than the v8 rad so its easy to clamp the fans to the rad

thanks for the replies, i havent put any additional load on the battery when measuring it. however i have realised my mistake, which i am hoping is just due to a rough day! of course a volt meter measures across the circuit where as a ammeter is in it. silly boy!

i have been measuring voltage. it would drop to 4v when left for a day. i did wonder if the ampage i was reading was due to the ammeter, but 19a seem alot to me, thats why i am asking the question. is it possible for a battery when out of the vehicle to have a load on it?? (my knowledge seems unlikely but checking)

I found that the battery was dead today on my p38a, i thought it may have been due to the RF amp and all the wireless stuff thats around my area. so i unplugged it and charged the battery back up, to the point i was able to run the engine again. Checked the battery every hr and it was loosing charge. put an ammeter across the terminals and there was 19A across it. i investigated further, and got to the point where I disconnected the battery cables and still found i had 19A across it! Does anyone know the mechanism for this to happen?

bloody hell davo, who are you kissing up to? i guess seeing as the p38 is sitting on the drive now, i best go and lower myself! you have got a lovely classic though!

nice one, ill try and find some of that then. cheers

does any one know of a pipe thread tape that replaces ptfe tape for using with fuel couplings?

i have since found a parts diagram http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/oldwarn.php which shows it all, so thanks.

cheers i will consider that if i need a new motor

I have done a search, but found nothing. does anyone have a wiring diagram for a warn 8074 which only has (by a quick look at it) one terminal on the motor. How does this motor work? I remember someone saying that it doesnt have a powered out spool, is that right? Can i replace the motor with a 8274 one (these have 3 terminals on and i have a diagram for that) i got the winch at a good price, and it looks in good nick.

so the plot thickens. I have just contacted the nfu and initially had insurrance for a 90 200tdi with different tyres. I rang up asking for a few extras such as winch, rollcage etc. No chance! really am thinking it would be easierjust to get a rr lpg- i can get insurrance, sleep in it when racing, tow happily with it and do a smal amount of greenlaning!

it seems that the insurrance decision has been made for me, the best situation i can get is a rrv8 and smart on one policy, but start one now and put them both onto the same policy when the smart comes up for renewal. i am going to try nfu for the defender but dont expect that to be much better than what i have already been quoted for!

ok, i am not expecting super cheap insurance, I have two accidents under my belt! but i cant seem to get insurance for 2 cars (let alone the racer!) i want to keep my smart roadster, and either get a p38 lpg or a defender 90, with some bigger tyres. and get insurrance for them both. i spoke to one 4x4 company and they wanted 1600quid for the slightly modded defender. I can get a multicar policy for the smart and the rr for 900quid. (this seems ok to me). but i would like a defender rather than a rr. but how do you all do it?

i dont know where you are in the country, but you might want to try paul @ prolinx. hes in wales near kington. http://www.prolinx.biz/

it light issue depends on who you talk to, tomcat say the rr chassis is lighter, others say the wildcat. The wildcat was designed for strength- comp safari-ing. it may be better designed and could well be heavier. I am yet to see any real evidence of the weight of each chassis. Personnally I prefer the wildcat, but i also want an independant.

thats great news, well done. I have been farting around with getting my bowler done. Its going to be a commercial test. Where was the test?

These two pdfs, I found searching I think on the vosa website. if you search for the title "sva information reference" you can get the link (just incase they ask where you got it from) anyhow, these set out the guideance of commercial vehicle criteria. Commercial_vehicle_details.pdf commercial_test_catergory.pdf

i will look forward with interest to this topic

thanks Ian, Ill invest in a micrometer then, seeing as i may have a couple of them to do!

i have a stripped v8- how do i tell if the cylinders need to rebored? i thought i may be able to check by checking the piston ring gap when inserted into the cylinder, but there is a noticeable step on the bottom of each of the cylinders.