carlosbeldia
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Posts posted by carlosbeldia
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Problem is in my country are only around 30 cars with TD5 engine, so no local replacement......
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I live in Colombia, so I have a LHD Defender, is there any instructions for this Mantec? my snorkel came with RHD instructions, clearly not aplicable to my car....
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Thanks a lot, but I can't transport it to my country is too expensive (around 300 pounds for transport). In effect, I don't have a Cat pipe. Do you know what is inside this basket? is an straight pipe or an spring?
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Days ago I have been trying to find an incredibly annoying noise under my car. It's kind of a "metallic" basket noise when i go in a pot hole. Today I checked all the car and found the source: the metallic basket under manifold. Does Land Rover sells this specific part? what is its function? can I only take it off from there and put an straight pipe? inside it is anything I can fix? thanks for your answers...
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Wow, you really are a Land Rover knowledge bible. You have just finish a two years discussion with a pair of friends of mine y only one day, a complete record for a peacemaker...
Do you know if one 19.50's can is just enough for a complete engine block? it use 3 layers and one prime, right (I don't remember where I read it)?
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Thanks a lot everybody. I'm looking in painting in Frost but can't find the color you mention. I'm in Colombia, so it's a little expensive to try to communicate with them
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I have this exact problem in the same wheel, but I have ABS, so I really can't make a lot of force due to sensor location (don't know if being a LH and export specs makes some difference). I can't heat it and it's almost impossible to get in there any bigger than 5 inches long. This weekend I'm going for it again, so any idea will be tried...
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Good day. I'm looking for the original color code for engine block in a Series IIA, can you please help me? it's for a friend of mine who is restoring it.......
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In my country, when LPG issue arrives, we usually says: if you don't have money for the ice, please don't buy the whisky....
(yes, I know it's kind of a sin to use ice with a good whisky, but what can I do? it's a tradition......) -
I'm such an idiot!!!! I went today to buy the bearings and forgot to take the wheel seal code with me... can anybody help me?
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I went and came back with no problem at all. However, yesterday when leaving my office the car suddenly shutdown. I checked the fuse and it was completely melt down. Changed it and it melt down again, really hot in ten minutes. I took out the fuse box, found an exposed cable and taped it, with no result. I tried everything: cleaning, taping wires, voltage checking, etc. Today it worked just fine, no heat at all, no blown fuse, but suddenly the car stops. I moved the relay and fuse until it runned again and took me to the office. Checking the electrical diagram, found there is a earth point for fuel pump, the C0556-1, can anybody help me with a photo or tell me where I can locate it? what else you think it can be?
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I mean the below design, not the Solo desgin:
http://www.kaiserlocker.com/en/produtos/bloqueio-de-diferencial/
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Yours are the kaiser locks? they make them in Brazil right? an old design of yours? the same factory makes flanges...... I thought it was your factory..... appart from this, how good is the kaiser design? do you have any update to them?
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Santiago, KAM have a factory in Brasil, I suppose they made this flanges there. You remember a Argentinian post about Kaiser locker? that is the same factory, I know it because a friend of mine brings their bits from there. Have 130's some stronger axles we can use in our 110?
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Hi there, It seems that my right front inner wheel bearing have use all his stamina and needs to be replaced, now I have to take it out, somebody can help me with this procedure? which is the fastest and easiest way to take this bearing? Do you have a Timken or NGK reference for it? is a 2001 TD5 110 with ABS.....
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Does anybody knows if I can use it in my 2001 car? it's a 99MY, with a normal console (I mean, no console
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Our section in Colombia:
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Jajajjajaja... OK, Iĺl have that in mind Fridge, thanks a lot. Today I'll be verifying all connections to fuel pump fuse before leaving. Thanks a lot
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Before the 30A, I had a 10A, with no blowing, only melt of plastic. I'll review what you say on the other side...
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Yes, now I have all the wiring diagrams. You don't kknow how thankful I am, not a mechanic, not an electrician could repair it. The weird thing is the fuse don't blow never, it only gets its plastic cover melt down... what could it be
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Fuse 15 in my car refers to right headlight. I think the fuse that brings energy to instrument cluster are 3 (5A) and 4 (10A). In both case, they are bringing electricity correctly. Down you can see how the car was at the end of my Toroughly
fixing try, deeply invasive, as you can see. After all this, I have found that my fuel pump fuse is melting down, do you know what could be the cause (you can see a photo of the fuse at the end):
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Good and bad news................ The fault dissapeared after I moved the wiring harness behind the dash, the one that is supposed to carry the CO285.... The bad news is that behind the dash are only wires, there are no connectors, looms or splices, so it fix itself, I don't know where the fault was (or maybe is?) located.I suppose it's due to this car is an export vehicle, so it have to be different from UK models, I hope. Do you know if maybe the connectors are in the other side of the dash in LH cars?
I really appreciated all the help and patience you had with me. I had to dismantled all the dash, radio connections and other things in order to reach this cable. After I see the gauges working, I tried everything to make it fail again, with no result, so the mistery continues, and now it's clear it have to be a ground connection related to Header 285..... I'll keep looking and let you know.
Thanks, really thanks, specially to Woody and Western, really patience when my ignorance arise.....
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I already tried with multimeter the four side lights, all of them mark 0 volts, don't know how to test the instrument pack. I haven't seen what Groomit said, sorry, I'll try in a moment, but can anybody tell me where is Header 0285? as I said, I don't have the Electrical Reference Booklet, where photos are.
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OK, I took it out and clean a lot of dirt present, but with no result. I want to install Rave in my laptop, but it have Linux and shows me an error. I know it's really annoying, but can anybody extract the electrical manual and send it to me or take it to a server where I can download it?
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TD5 Engine oil
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I used 15w40 when I just bought the car..... a total mess...... there was always a fight with engine in order to get it started at morning, a lot of fumes in the exhaust, and really bad performance in cold mornings. Changed to Mobil 1 was the best solution. Now, due to money problems, I'm using semi-synth Mobil 2000 10w40 with no issue at this moment. However, when 15w40 I was 2600 meters over sea level (cold mornings were 5 celsius), now I'm at sea level (cold mornings are 25 celsius). My advice: don't go with 15w40, your engine will thank you.