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carlosbeldia

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Posts posted by carlosbeldia

  1. I'll explain why I want to do this change:

    In Colombia, I haven't heard of more than 5 cars with LR diesel original engines. If you find one of these engines, you can count for only the engine, as far as 3000 pound of cost, so whatever it costs are involved in UK, they are sensible cheaper than a Colombian one, not even thinking yet in these are new parts vs 40 year worked ones. Due to high prices of gasoline vs diesel (about 30% higher, not counting the lower consumption), it's a really good inversion. And finally, as my Series are only for off road, I really prefer a diesel engine that doesn't go down when things go wet..... for travelling and everyday use, I have a 110 TD5, so it's not a problem the additional smoke or noise.

    As far, I have checked following parts that must be changed:

    Valves

    Guides

    Valve Rockers

    Pistons (and rings set)

    Con Rods

    Cam

    Push rods

    Starter engine

    Cam bracket (somebody can confirm me if there is one or two of these?)

    Injectors

    Gaskets

    Admission

    By LRseries, costs are until now a healthy GBP 500, not looking yet for option prices.

    Major components, diesel pump and head (are you sure crank must be changed?) I'm trying to find some in good conditions. I saw one 2286 with a Nissan diesel pump working better than with the original. They are cheapers and easier to tune, what do you think? If I let the gasoline crank it's sure it's going to break? I'm not a high rev driver....

    The other option is going for a 5 bearing engine, so I can use the head with no problem, I'm looking for one...

  2. Hi there. Two overland travellers are here in my city, and today they went for an under car inspection, finding there is a gap in one side of the gearbox-flywheel, like one of the bolts were loosen. Maybe photos can help to understand:

    This is the place in the car:

    Where the paper goes is the gap, we could introduce a 75g paper bended with no problem. The other side of the gearbox is ok, no paper can get into.

    gearbox_flywheelhouse_02.jpg

    gearbox_flywheelhouse_03.jpg

    gearbox_flywheelhouse_04.jpg

    Please tell us if this is normal or is a big problem, they have to follow travel to US, with no Land Rover workshop in the middle. Thank you in advance.

  3. I want to use anything like Waxoyl, but here in Colombia all that anti-rust products are kind of illegal (due to cocaine-production chemicals), so I have to look for any alternative. I found a recipe for homemade anti-rust that sounds logical for me (Candle, White Spirit and parafin oil) and I want to use it both in the outside and inside. Have somebody used it? I suppose that's a mess for any apply, but I'm really getting off ideas, so this is my only alternative at the moment.

    I have a TD5, do you think I can spray this almost-glue product inside the chassis where electrical wires are and no make a short circuit or something worst? what's the idea with cavity wax? to refill the interior or just to cover the walls?

    I know Waxoyl or any industrial alternative are better than this recipe, but believe me: I can't bring them here (there is a way, but it will cost more than my car, so...). Here we can only go for a ship-like formula painting outside the chassis, and an epoxic anti rust paint, but there is nothing to do with cavities and chasis inside.

    This recipe results in a really thick coat. How can I make it thinner without losing protective characteristics?

  4. Hi there. I'm from Colombia and a friend of mine is looking for a HD version of front axles in his Series 3 1977 trial Land Rover. He have ARB 100% locker in the front, so every time he goes for a really hard track he needs a new half-shaft. Is any upgrade we can buy? he can't change front differential because it's a classic's competition.

  5. However, Land Rover updated oil specs for 300 Tdi, asking for ACEA A3/B3 and superior. Is ACEA E7 superior to A3/B3?. I've been analizing ACEA guidelines finding they are no compatible in test engine, ACEA asks for different parammeters. Seeing this, I think they are not fully interchangeable, am I right?

  6. But I don't know, There is a Rimula R4 meeting E7. Howeveer, my common oil 5w40 A3/B3 really looks different, kind of more fluent......

    In ACEA parammeters, they mention E as a completely different oil than B, and the description applies for different engines (low rpm, big displacement, great times of stationary RPM)

  7. Land Rover asks ACEA B2 for 300 TDi. However, my vendor is telling me their Rimula Rx4 (ACEA E3) exceeds ACEA B2 requirements, simply because E is after B. Is this correct? I think and understand B and E protocols are completly differents codes for applications.

  8. I had similar problem when changing my pump. For any reason we don't know, there were two hoses sharing color, and we connect them in the wrong way. Also check fuel pump fuse for bad , sometimes it gets hot and fuel pùmp begins to judder. Finally, check the purge valve at the exit of the filter, maybe it's clogged...

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