Smokydiesel

Hi, Just to add another idea, here's what I did. When changing from 2,5 NA to 200 TDI, I also used the TDI-radiator and fan cowl. At the scrapyard I found the perfect Kenlow-look alike.....being an ex Chevrolet Corsica fan (sorry for that guys..) I fitted the Chevy fan inside the TDI fan cowl and job done !! I'm very happy with the end result. Here's some pictures:

This afternoon I had one of these Ohhh sh… moments. I was on my way to the local skip in my 90 towing a trailer, when suddenly it all started to slide. I only lifted my foot from the throttle, but apparently the engine breaking was enough to through me in a 180 degree spin (25 mph, an icy road and mud-tyres is not a great mix..) The trailer caught the left hand rear side, pushing back the mud flap bracket, rear corner panel and the rear step. Once back home I fixed all the damage within 5 minutes. I pulled the bracket and the corner panel back into position by hand, while a quick swing with the good old hammer sorted the rear step. Don’t you just love the reparability of older Land Rovers ?! In a normal car I would have had hundreds of pounds worth of damage; cracked plastic bumper, dented panels etc. Just great !!

This afternoon I had one of these Ohhh sh… moments. I was on my way to the local skip in my 90 towing a trailer, when suddenly it all started to slide. I only lifted my foot from the throttle, but apparently the engine breaking was enough to through me in a 180 degree spin (25 mph, an icy road and mud-tyres is not a great mix..) The trailer caught the left hand rear side, pushing back the mud flap bracket, rear corner panel and the rear step. Once back home I fixed all the damage within 5 minutes. I pulled the bracket and the corner panel back into position by hand, while a quick swing with the good old hammer sorted the rear step. Don’t you just love the reparability of older Land Rovers ?! In a normal car I would have had hundreds of pounds worth of damage; cracked plastic bumper, dented panels etc. Just great !!

Excellent posting ! Just finished converting my 2,5 NA into a 200 TDI, but the next project just might be a 300 TDI !

Hi Western, Do you happen to know if the engine mounts itself are different between the old 2,5 NA engine and the ones use on a genuine 200 TDI Defender ? I'm asking because I converted my Defender 90 (ex- 2,5 NA) to a 200 TDI(ex-Disco) using the 2,5 NA engine mounts. It all fits well but I'm experiencing a lot of vibrations through out the car when the engine is idling. I did use new (unbranded) mountingrubbers and am about to change them for some genuine rubber blocks, but am a bit pessimistic about the outcome..... Thanks ! Edwin

Hi, I fitted a new TD-exhaust, the 2 most rear mounts are "hanger"-type but the front one is still the original bolted type. Guess I could try and change the front hanger..... If that doesn't work, I'll swap the engine mounts. Thanks !

The vibrations on mine are only there when idling; doors and windows are rattling and so is the gearlever. Once I'm driving, all is well and it runs great ! Idle speed on the engine is good. No engine parts are touching the chassis or body, so.... I will change the mounting rubbers and let you know the outcome ! Thanks, Edwin.

Used pattern ones........ Been searching this forum and I think I should order two STC434's.....Genuine parts this time.. Thanks !

Hi, Thanks for your reply. Nothing wrong with the engine, I'm sure, it runs like a dream. Also the engine itself isn't shaking or vibrating as far as I can see, it's just sitting there being very happy. I wonder what the differences are between the engine mounting rubbers for a diesel and a V8.......different compount rubber...!?

Hi Jim, From what I can remember, the pushrod should move sort of freely in and out of the bellhousing. That's because you only move the clutch-fork back and forward while pulling or pusing the pushrod. Also the rod isn't fixed solid to the fork, so you should also be able to move the rod up and down and right and left etc. etc. (bit like a joystick) Are you changing the short rubber hose also ? the one running from the slave upwards... I would change it too because they tend to perish from the inside (thanks again Western...!) Edwin.

Hi, Just finished my ex-Disco 200 TDI into 2,5 NA conversion and I'm very happy with it. Only downside is that there are a lot of vibrations going through the bodywork. Thought I'd seen a posting about someone having the same problem and solving it by using different engine mounting rubbers (for V8 ?) I used new rubbers but really can't remember what type/part number. I do know I used the same rubbers for my gearbox when I changed that a while ago. Had a look on the LRseries-website and they seem to sell 2 suitable types (shape-wise that is): ANR1808, suitable for Defender 4 cyl. 1987> and various other applications...(101 V8, Stage One v8) STC434, suitable for just about all V8 models... Can anyone point me in the good direction ? Thanks !! Edwin.

Hi Matt, Have you still got (or can you get hold of..) the high pressure pipe from the donor Discovery ? (pump to box) When I did the conversion I took the pump-to-box pipe from both the Disco and the 90 to Pirtek. They cut off that bit of Disco pipe that connects to the Disco pump (all together a few inches) After that they cut off the banjo bit from the Defender pipe (the bit that used to connect to the old pump) With a bit of tube (not cheap) and some fixings, the pressed both ends (Disco bit and complete 90-pipe) together and presto !! So what I've got is the original 90 high pressure pipe, that is connected to the last bit of the Disco pipe. Worked great for me. But as said before on this posting, best thing is to take all the bits to a shop like Pirtek and let them have a go ! Edwin.

Hi, As for the breatherkit itself; I bought this breatherkit last year from Ebay, must say that the quality is superb ! The aluminium breather-manifold is a sturdy bit of kit and a great way to join all the breather pipes (axles, gearbox and transferbox) into one tube. Breatherkit Edwin

Hi, You also may find this link useful: Steeringwheels Edwin

Spot on ! Thank you Western !

I Need to replace the waterpump on my TD5. Noticed that there is very little space between the waterpump-cover and the centrifugal oilfilter housing. Can I sqeeuze the pump out and in, or does the whole filter-housing really need to come off too ? (manual says yes.... ) Thanks ! Edwin.

Looking for the partnumber for the switch that sits on top of the clutch-master cylinder (TD5) This switch should sens clutch-fluid movement and control the anti-shunt setting. Can't seem to find this switch at any of the suppliers. Thanks ! Edwin.

Well I'll be D...... You could have a point there Sean, didn't think of the fact that when I'm spinning the pulley, I'm also spinning the PAS pump...

Just had this big "aha-moment"... I took the belt off and started the engine: noise gone ! So with the fan bearing and belt tensioner replaced, I'm going for the waterpump now ! Thanks ! Ediwn

Hi, I'm trying to find out where this strange engine noise is coming frome; After warming up for a few minutes I get this "Ghar ghar ghar ghar"noise, sounding a bit like a nackered bearing. The noise is at it's strongest with my ear in front of the radiator. When I move it (my ear that is..) towards the left or right, or even inside the engine bay, the sounds dies down a bit. It's almost as if it is coming from the center of the intercooler....... So far I've changed the viscous fan bearing and the ancillary belt tensioner, with no result at all. What I can think of next is the waterpump. While turning the pump by hand (with the belt off) I noticed that it makes a clicking noise with each rotation. Should it be doing that ?? or is that a sign of a nackered pump ? Thanks ! Edwin

Because my engine is making funny grinding noises up front and after having replaced the viscous fan bearing without any improvement, I have now decided to replace the belt tensioner. (300 tdi example shown below, but mine is a TD5 !) But how do I get the thing off ? It is held against the engine block with what looks to be a bolt straight through the middle, but I can't get any socket to slide on the bolt. The bolt looks to be size 14 or 15 but there's not enough room sideways to fit a socket. Or am I missing something here Thanks !

Sorted !! I drilled straight through the remaining bits and bolted the blanking plate up with 2 M5 bolts. Well, I make it sound easier than it was, really... Like Philip said, I should have heated the manifold up before removing the original bolts, but hey..... Thanks again for helping out guys ! Edwin

Thanks for all the quick replies ! The moment I put my eyes on these bolts I just knew they were going to snap....... I've had a few pints in the mean time and decided that plan A will be: drilling out the bits (after a good nights sleep) Not to bothered about the thread that's inside the manifold, if I damage it while drilling I'll just put two longer bolts straight through ! I tested my drill and found out that it is too big/long to fit between the radiator and the manifold end, so I'll be looking for a different drill tomorrow. Once I'll have it fitted, that EGR kit better be any good..or else... Guess this is what Land Rover-ing is all about..... I'll keep you posted ! Edwin

Hi, Decided to fit the EGR blanking kit today. While taking off the existing pipework, I snapped off the two bolts shown below. Taking the bits out that are left behind will be a pain in the A.... I'm sure ! Does anyone know of an other method to blank off this bit of pipework ? Or a smart way of getting those bits out ? Thanks Edwin

Hi Gil, Thought I'd give you a reply. The switch is on top of the clutch mastercilinder (near the bulkhead inside the engine bay) Locate the clutch fluid lid, follow down a bit and there you will spot a connector (black in my case) Remove the metal clip that holds the connector to the switch and take the connector off. I put a small metal clip inside the connector (the bit you pull off) just to let the ECU think that the switch is on (or is it off... ) all of the time. Good luck Edwin.