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Simon B

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About Simon B

  • Rank
    Old Hand

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Leicester/inshore

Previous Fields

  • Interests
    Diving, improving that shed on wheels that is the "Machine"

Recent Profile Visitors

347 profile views
  1. Haven’t Kahn or the Chelsea Truck Co been catering for these poor misunderstood but highly valued individuals for some time now? I have a 1990 v8 110 CSW with original engine (in garden for some time) that could be used as a base vehicle, can someone start the bidding at £35k please?
  2. Had a look about for tips on this and drew a blank, so, is there a method of adjusting your windscreen jets without the fluid hitting the wipers. Can anyone post a nifty diagram for the target area of the jet?
  3. I think the Isuzu options were; 4JB1T. 2.8 4 cylinder OEM in Aussie defenders at one point 4JG2 3.1 4 cylinder indirect injection. 4BD1 3.9 4 cylinder direct injection with or without turbo. Fitted I think to some Aussie discos and the military Perentie. I have a 2.8 in my 110, it is a very smooth engine, also used in Vauxhall Frontera. I thought about the 3.9 but had heard it could shake your fillings loose at idle. There was also a rumour that Isuzu produced a small number of 4JB1Ts that were bored out to 3.1 just before they went indirect injection. That might be a very nice power plant.
  4. Changed the lock and switch, it was the el cheapo switch module on the end, is this a spare to save me the effort next time? Held on by a rubbish miniature Philips screw.
  5. Its the issue of the switch burning itself out each time, the heater motor seems to draw 4 amps but its a thin gauge wire and isn't brown or brown with an orange trace. It appears to be white with an orange or red trace? When I replace the ignition switch and lock I'll take my fuse box off the bulkhead and check the wire colours on either side of the fuse
  6. They’ve always been the questionable quality Lucas part. What I don’t quite get is why the v8 is the only model that gets the heater motor off it?
  7. Ive studied the various threads and about the above but not seen a similar fault. Every 3-5 years I have to replace my ignition switch/lock . Its a 1990 v8, all the circuit diags show a wire from the ignition to the fuse box then to the heater motor. On all the failed ignition switches its this terminal that appears to melt, the back of the switch gets all loose and wobbly then you have to change it. The wire itself to the fuse box seems pretty thin gauge, though it never blows the fuse the fuse itself is also a touch on the brown singed looking side. Anyone else seen this fault, I'm tempted to run a new wire in to the fuse box from a better switched feed.
  8. Earth (black) now on correct stud Gauge (green/black) now on white terminal Warning light (white) yet to be connected to red terminal My gauge was trying to read the warning light supply, whilst earthing through gauge terminal. It appears to be working ok, will recable it properly with a cable to the warning light when the stuff comes from VWP.
  9. Western, Is it threaded or is there some sort of crimp thingy I need to get for it? A female bullet?
  10. That may be something similar to my symptoms. I think the black wire should go to the threaded post. Not the white terminal. I'll test this when it stops raining. I think the white terminal is for the low fuel light.
  11. This driving me a bit mad, fitted a new tank at the back, had to run in new wires. Connected up and tank read fine when not moving. Had it for a bit of a drive and reads empty unless I'm turning right. Fuel level is actually full. Hoping it isn't a sender fault and is a wiring fault i can trace out.
  12. I ran with a twin set up under passenger seat, they fit well. After I fitted the diesel went down to one big one. Then keep spare charged and in a box in case I need to do a remote jump start, a lot easier than trying to park close.
  13. I think I have a pair of Disco Efi manifolds, they were alleged to be better than the std 3.5 LR ones think they go 2-1 then out rather than 4-1 let me know. Also got a complete engine but it's been outside for years so may have seized. Sorry chaps.
  14. If it's for regular use, get a kit that puts the hitch at standard trailer height. The bumper is a tad too high, you'll notice more with a long trailer and uneven ground. I love mine, by Watling Eng. the only downside is you need to practice reversing a trailer now and then. I use mine to launch my clubs 6.8m dive boat, safe and easy to see hazards etc. Do it! Do it now!
  15. Talked to NFU today, sounds like a bad postcode, I'll talk to Heritage tomorrow.
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