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Simon B

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About Simon B

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    Old Hand

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  • Interests
    Diving, improving that shed on wheels that is the "Machine"

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  1. Haven’t Kahn or the Chelsea Truck Co been catering for these poor misunderstood but highly valued individuals for some time now? I have a 1990 v8 110 CSW with original engine (in garden for some time) that could be used as a base vehicle, can someone start the bidding at £35k please?
  2. Had a look about for tips on this and drew a blank, so, is there a method of adjusting your windscreen jets without the fluid hitting the wipers. Can anyone post a nifty diagram for the target area of the jet?
  3. I think the Isuzu options were; 4JB1T. 2.8 4 cylinder OEM in Aussie defenders at one point 4JG2 3.1 4 cylinder indirect injection. 4BD1 3.9 4 cylinder direct injection with or without turbo. Fitted I think to some Aussie discos and the military Perentie. I have a 2.8 in my 110, it is a very smooth engine, also used in Vauxhall Frontera. I thought about the 3.9 but had heard it could shake your fillings loose at idle. There was also a rumour that Isuzu produced a small number of 4JB1Ts that were bored out to 3.1 just before they went indirect injection. That mi
  4. Changed the lock and switch, it was the el cheapo switch module on the end, is this a spare to save me the effort next time? Held on by a rubbish miniature Philips screw.
  5. Its the issue of the switch burning itself out each time, the heater motor seems to draw 4 amps but its a thin gauge wire and isn't brown or brown with an orange trace. It appears to be white with an orange or red trace? When I replace the ignition switch and lock I'll take my fuse box off the bulkhead and check the wire colours on either side of the fuse
  6. They’ve always been the questionable quality Lucas part. What I don’t quite get is why the v8 is the only model that gets the heater motor off it?
  7. Ive studied the various threads and about the above but not seen a similar fault. Every 3-5 years I have to replace my ignition switch/lock . Its a 1990 v8, all the circuit diags show a wire from the ignition to the fuse box then to the heater motor. On all the failed ignition switches its this terminal that appears to melt, the back of the switch gets all loose and wobbly then you have to change it. The wire itself to the fuse box seems pretty thin gauge, though it never blows the fuse the fuse itself is also a touch on the brown singed looking side. Anyone else seen this faul
  8. Talked to NFU today, sounds like a bad postcode, I'll talk to Heritage tomorrow.
  9. Funny you should say that, NFU, I live in Leicester. It does have an Isuzu 2.8 in it so is "modified"
  10. Just had my renewal, 50 year old bloke, 8 years plus NCD, 25 year old 110 CSW. £868 Anyone one else had similar?
  11. I'll be needing a new clutch soon in the LR110 Isuzu hybrid, can you buy plates and covers separately?
  12. Western, I'd seen the YRM one in one of your previous posts but had already got the replacement one for mine Three pieces would be easier if you do not want to remove the sill and fill panel.
  13. This knotty problem again! Always rotts, is thinner than other chassis members and is a pig to get out. Remove the sill panel and door fill panel (the little triangular one whose rivets always fall out, you only need to do this on one side, but it helps with visibility if you do both Dont bother trying to undo the various nuts and bolts simply cut them all off. Prepare your cross member; if you have not got one that has separate brackets drill through them and grind off the welds to separate. Remove the small rectangular brackets the bolt to the section that supports the now removed sill C
  14. If this Isuzu conversion doesnt work I'm off to Russia to buy a LHD Niva!

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