Smokydiesel

Thanks all for your replies ! That was a good tip there Bogmonster; I took the clutch-switch off and bridged the connector, and it is much better. True that there is some throttle delay now, but I can think I can live with that. I'll get a new switch now...together with a new master-cilinder, cause that's dripping a bit also...

Hi, Just a quick question regarding my Defender 90 TD5 (1999) The car (or should I say engine) feels “jerky” in first and second gear. In third, fourth and fifth it feels OK without any problems, but in first and second it reacts very very sensitive to what I do with the accelerator. For instance when I let go of the accelerator (in first or second) and than press it again, the engine will pickup speed without any problems, but it never ever is smooth like in all the other gears. This is especially in slow traffic, very annoying and sort of spoils the otherwise smooth ride in my 90. Over the last 2 years I have replaced the injector harness, accelerator assembly and airflow meter. Any idea’s guys ? Thanks ! Edwin.

Hi, For the bottom rad hose I use the old hose that was on my 2,5 NA. Had to cut it a bit to get the X-eng switch in, but this enabled me to get the last bit of hose twisted towards the waterpump. For the airbox I combined the 2,5 NA filterboxhousing with the 200 tdi filterbox lid. Tubing towards the turbo is mainly made up of the tubes and pipes that came with the TDI Disco engine. Here are some pics: Good luck !

Hello all, Just a quick update. I've changed the clutch-slave (including rubber hose) and the master cylinder just yesterday. And it's fine now !!!!! Drive-problem solved Thanks all for your replies. Edwin.

Thanks all, I'm not to good with electrics and it shows ! Don't want to melt down my override switch, that's why there's a relay in the first place. Again thanks ! Edwin

Yep, ordered that also ! By the way, I had to pull the rubber hose out of the way in order to get the engine in................makes you wonder....

....Ahhmmm no because all the different setups shown in the fitting instructions, need me to pull at least a wire from battery to the engine bay, another wire from the Thermostat (in the engine bay) back to the dashboard and from there back again to the engine bay......... I know I know.....perfectly good instructions supplied with the thermostat and still not happy

Les, No didn't check the slave your way.... (although my mate told me so..) But what I did do, was adjustment of the master cylinder the official way (pedal 140mm from floor, check play in cylinder-rod etc. etc.) After that the clutch felt better, still far from perfect but at least I was able to drive the car out of the workshop under it's own steam. So I do suspect a problem in Slave and/or Master cylinder (fluid not flowing back and keeping clutch pushed in) I have order new cylinders and will be fitting them in a few day's time. Will let you know how it goes after that ! Edwin

Hi, I'm busy working out how to connect my electric fan to the X-eng thermostat I just bought. I need to be able to switch the whole circus On and Off with a single switch on the dash (not Carling type, just a simple On/Off switch) and will only be using the lowest temperature-side of the thermostat. But I would like to keep the amount of wires from and to the battery and engine bay to a minimum. Would this be a safe way to hook it all up ?: This way (I think) I only need to pull a fused wire from the battery, through a switch in the dash, towards the engine bay. Relay and Thermostat (obviously....) are clustered together in the engine bay. Thanks Edwin

Hi Les, I took the slave out and all seems to be fine there. The pin connected to the clutchfork seems to move OK back and forwards and the piston in the slave certainly isn't stuck in the "out"position. The strange thing is that I do now have just a wee bit more drive in High box, compared to yesterday. It's still far from perfect but I was able to move the car a few meters.....until I had to overcome a bump in the workshops floor..... Could a broken clutch plate (cracked center...) have this effect ? I would imagine that a cracked plate will leave the car with no drive at all, just a lot of horrible noise... Thanks !

Have a look here: Steeringwheels Edwin.

Yep, checked that. In High box there's virtually no drive at all, just enough to get it moving about half an inch, after that I can rev the engine until morning comes, but no go... I can however take up some speed in first low box but there's not even enough drive to get it over a brick or whatever..... I had to ask my mate to give me a push back into the workshop.

Thanks Lars for your reply ! Would love it though when someone on this forum would strongly disagree with Lars and my personal fears........ Please let someone tell me that I don't have to take out the gearbox

Hi All, Just finished converting my 2,5 NA to a (ex-Disco) 200 TDI. I kept the 200 TDI flywheel and the original gearbox. Guess what ? there’s no drive at all !! I can just about get the car moving in First gear low box, but there is no drive in all the other gears, let alone high box. There’s no crunching and the clutch feels like it should. I left the clutch-cilinders in place. There’s is also no problem changing gears. Feels like the clutch is slipping for 99%........ What have I done wrong ???? Could it be that I fitted the clutchplate the wrong way…? I’m really scratching my head here !

Even better your way Western ! It's just that my engine is a ex-Disco with the low mounted turbo and I didn't have that great filterbox-bracket...

Seems that a lot of people struggle to find a suitable place for the large airfilterbox after fitting a 200 TDI (I know I did ) Here's what I did: I combined both airfilterboxes into one, by using the 2,5 NA filterhousing and the 200 TDI box-lid. You have to fiddle a bit with the internal tread to get the lid to screw on properly, but in the end you get a box that's much smaller/lower than the original 200 TDi box: Next I used a bit of rainpipe to extend the intake-side of the box: By sticking on the plastic tube that came with the TDI filter you get a nice and complete filterbox almost ready to go in: The plastic tube-thingy connects to the old (TDI) filter pipe, no need to buy something new: Here's the filterbox in place: And the final result is a filterbox that sits nicely in the engine bay, low enough to let the bonnet close the way it should. I secured the filterbox with a metal strip to the front wing and inner wingpanel. Just a thought ! Edwin

Hi, I'm almost done with swapping my 2,5 na for a ex-Disco 200 TDI engine. Now I need to find a good location for the airfilterbox but wherever I put it, the standard airfilter hose/pipe will be to short. I've tried DIY-stores and autoparts suppliers but I can't seem to find any suitable hose or pipe that is flexible, heat resistant and has the proper diameter....for a friendly price. Any ideas what to use ? Thanks ! Edwin.

Hi, My old engine has a PAS pump but I thought that swapping pumps would mean welding up a new bracket (that's what I'm not good at..) Mmmmm... might have to do a new search on the forum here.... Will have a look at what box I have tomorrow. Thanks ! Edwin

Hi, I'm converting my 2,5 NA to a Disco 200 TDI and parts-wise I'm almost there. Now I know that the high pressure PAS hose from the pump to the box is a problem (connection on pump is different) I was thinking, would a new Pump to Box hose from a Defender or Discovery 200 TDI do the job ?? 2 items I can think of: Is the hose long enhough ? Will the box-end of the pipe fit my 2,5 na steering box ? (or is the NA steering box different from the one used in 200 TDI s..) Thanks ! Edwin.

Thanks all, Just ordered a complete TD-exhaust system today. As I understand it is suited for use with the 200 TDI and has the hangers sort of in the same place as my NA exhaust has them now.......I hope.... Again, thanks for the replies ! Edwin.

Hi all, I’m in the middle of my 2,5 NA to 200 TDi conversion. My question: can I keep the original NA- exhaust, or is it to small and do I need a TD or 200 TDI exhaust ? It would hate squeezing the engine to much and lose all that TDI-power ! I take it that the NA-exhaust will have different brackets compared to the TD or TDI chimneys.....? Thanks ! Edwin. PS I've bought that luuuvely Steve Parker downpipe-thingie....

Thanks, I tried using a vice but I couldn't get the axle out. Today I grinded the bearing off, very carefully. Managed to get it sorted, the new bearing is in now Just a shame that I'm still left with that strange grinding noise that made me change the bearing in the first place Ah well...... Thanks ! Edwin

Hi Peter, Today I tried to replace this bearing too.....pffff I got the bearing out OK, but now I'm stuck with that short axle-bit (number 3 in the first picture) inside the old bearing. How do I get that out ? So far I grinded off the outer bearing ring (hope that wasn't a stupid idea) bit the inner ring refuses to part with the axle. Any idea's ? Thanks !! Edwin.

Hi, To cut the plastic bits on my Disco's front bumper, I used some masking tape and a Dremel tool, turned out to be a very nice job. Edwin.

Thanks all guys !! Cheers, Edwin