Jason2

Just tried the nut on the crankshaft pulley & it's loose so it could be that for the smoke and summet else for the noise!

Naaaaaaa! No head gasket symtoms! Checked push rods, reset tappets to no avail it's a b*gger trying to locate, got me ear on the end of my jack bar listening all over the place, nearest that I can locate it to is sump. Kicking a lot of smoke out too, starting to think it might be the crank pulley that's slipped on it's woodruff keys-Would that make a tapping noise? Have a listen

Hi Just bought a 1990 200tdi sw Def and there's a weird iregular tapping/knocking coming from the engine (bought it cheap knowing there was a problem with enjun!) that get's noiser and more regular as it warms up, lot of smoke too! starts on turn of the key! Old owner who I believe told me it started out of the blue and has just got worse! Noise seems to be coming from the rear of the rocker cover, broken push rod? tappet? valve? Any thoughts before I have a look tomorrow! Cheers Jason

Could you explain a little more please rusty?? Does this dowel wear/break giving slack? How do you change it and where do you get one from? Cheers Jason

Nice one chap! Far better than the Golf GTI that I had at your age

Thanks Rich & rusty wingnut. Could be or the wear in the gears to the inj pump. Would still like to know who's smokes, how much and what colour as I've read on a few French forums that say they all do?

Thanks Chris, that makes me feel better, were you getting white or black smoke, I'm getting white! It's a lot better than it was after ajusting the timing with the injection pump but I've run out of ajustment. Jason

Hi As the title.some say they were made like that some don't agree.What does yours do? I have a 2 1/4 diesel that smokes a little on tick over (my mates does too) I dont want to get into changing the timing chain,pump,farting about etc as I have far too much welding and other stuff to do on it first!

Good question???? I've had the 2 alternators go in the last 6 months on the 110 and worse still on the Disco where I had to drive 400 miles with no electrics, both were full of mud when I took them off.

Batteries are fantastic for regulating currents, hence the reason why you should never disconnect the battery leads whilst the engine is running as your thus unregulated alternator power output can blow very expensive bits on RRS and the likes of.On a series you probably only risk a light bulb or 2. For info I'm currently experimenting with a waterwheel to make electricity, at full whack the generator can produce 140volts/6amps DC, when I connect up to a 12v car battery I get 14v across the terminals

Yeh but do you take the g & t-box off in one lump? well strapped up prevents things from going "pear shaped"

I use about 6 racket straps to hold box, pull it back, then lower and reverse to put it back! takes ages but a sure way of doing things.

Fill the bearing 3/4 full of grease, find an approx diameter bar to go in spigot bearing and give it a short sharp tw*t with a hammer.The grease forces the bearing out

Sorted, piece of pish First bush was a bit of a cow as I was useing 12mm threaded bar to pull it into the chassis that kept threading/snapping, so for the second one I used a long 14mm bolt-sweet as Thanks for the help!

Well I've got them know so the "barstools" are going in one way or another

So once one has mastered the art of getting the little tinkers out how does one get the git's back in? Haveing perticular problems with the front chassis bushes, rushing I managed to wreck one knocking it in with a soft mallet Bush in freezer? chassis in oven? make a puller? Cheers Jason

Joy of Joys New condensor arrived yesterday, got a new coil to as there only a £5. Can you believe it ? Started first time and purrs like a pussy cat Thanks for all your help

Cheers! But I have already tried a different coil. Waiting for a new condensor from the U.K at the mo!

yeh that's what I thought certainly should'nt stop it starting

Just done a compression test: cyl 1=9.8 bar cyl 2=10 bar cyl 3=9.6 bar cyl 4=8.6 bar Then did the same test after squirting a bit of oil in each pot. cyl 1=10.2 bar cyl 2=10.5 bar cyl 3=10.7 bar cyl 4=9.2 bar

I have put a clear piece of fuel pipe in between the carb & the fuel evaporater thingy on the bulk head, there is a few air bubbles coming through & then when the ignition is turned off return back from the carb up to evaporater. Remember I can't even get her to start Hopefully will have a compression tester tomorrow.

There is no T in the servo vac pipe or solonoid on the bulk head.There are 2 solonoids on the carb one for the anti-run on and the other the top of the carb I think is for air to/from the float chamber. I could'nt even get the bl**dy thing to run today with "Easy Start" will fire but not start! Thanks for your replies all the same

If only! Leads,D-Cap are all new numbered.

Checked every thing, re-checked & checked again, all O.K! No 1 spark plug is sooty 2,3,4 are definitely at lot less! come to the conclusion that the valves are snuffed and lost compression. When I bought the old girl she was gutless and after a compression test showed low compression especially on pots 2,3,4 which I put down to lack of clearance on the tappets and once re-set sorted the problem and has always gone like a good un since. Will try and borrow a compression tester tomorrow but am nearly sure now that the head needs a re-con!

Cheers Lee that makes me feel a bit better When I get time I'm going to have a look at the fuel side of things, injectors,pump,pipes & timing! Will keep you posted. Jason